Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Kozzy, before you change props (and 19" should be fine based on your 4,900 rpms), load the boat up the way you're going to use it most of the time. If you end being a little heavier, that may very well take care of the RPM issue. All things considered, I'd rather be a little higher with the revs than lower - you can always control your revs with the throttle/trim. In other words, the 17" might be just right once you get a normal load in the boat.

As Henry said, check the prop matrix on SR's site - even if it's for a different year. Just double check that the drive ratio for that year matches your drive.
 
Can anyone help with a solution to a "Next Generation " fuel gauge that is no longer available for my 2003 280 Sundancer. Supposedly this was a proprietary gauge and SeaRay no longer supports these gauges. I have also searched the aftermarket without any success. Has anyone found a substitute that does not require major retrofitting?
 
Can anyone help with a solution to a "Next Generation " fuel gauge that is no longer available for my 2003 280 Sundancer. Supposedly this was a proprietary gauge and SeaRay no longer supports these gauges. I have also searched the aftermarket without any success. Has anyone found a substitute that does not require major retrofitting?
You could try FP Marine to see if they any older gauges laying around - either used or NOS.

If you're not concerned about it matching perfectly, your boat is pre-Smartcraft so any old gauge would work. It also uses a standard, 2" cutout so you wouldn't have to mess with the hole.
 
Thanks for your reply. I was not sure if any aftermarket gauge would work. My gauge is a plug in gauge. The gauges that FP Marine have are single wire connected. Would you think any gauge would work if I cut off the plug in connector and directly wired it to the terminals?
 
Thanks for your reply. I was not sure if any aftermarket gauge would work. My gauge is a plug in gauge. The gauges that FP Marine have are single wire connected. Would you think any gauge would work if I cut off the plug in connector and directly wired it to the terminals?
Yes - the wiring is standard/common wiring. Did you verify that problem is the gauge and not the sender? It's more common for the sender to fail than the gauge.
 
Thank you again for the information, it makes things a lot easier. Yes I did confirm it is the gauge and not the sending unit.
 
You could try FP Marine to see if they any older gauges laying around - either used or NOS.

If you're not concerned about it matching perfectly, your boat is pre-Smartcraft so any old gauge would work. It also uses a standard, 2" cutout so you wouldn't have to mess with the hole.

Dennis that’s not correct. The gauges Sea Ray used before they switched over to Smartcraft were called “NextGen” and were neither Smartcraft, nor the traditional analog type. I know I had on our 02 280. They had a square six wire plug as opposed to simple wires with ring terminals for analog gauges.
 
Dennis that’s not correct. The gauges Sea Ray used before they switched over to Smartcraft were called “NextGen” and were neither Smartcraft, nor the traditional analog type. I know I had on our 02 280. They had a square six wire plug as opposed to simple wires with ring terminals for analog gauges.
I believe (correct me I'm wrong, though, Henry) that while the connectors were not the typical connectors on "any old gauge", there is still the standard wiring on the boat side of the circuit. Meaning, he could wire an off-the-shelf gauge into the system with very little effort. All a fuel gauge needs is the pink sender wire, a key-switched +, ground and the blue wire (for backlighting). While that connector may be a 6-pin connector... only 4 of those pins should be being used. If you still have your gauges, maybe you can confirm (or deny :) ) that, Henry?

Obviously (and I know I'm not telling you anything you don't already know, Henry!), the whole reason for those gauges/connectors was to make installation simpler/faster since gauges could be wired up with a quick "click" from the pre-made harness.
 
To add one more thing to the fuel gauge question... I don't know who made the gauge for Sea Ray (although that can be found out). But are there any markings on the backside to indicate who made it? Faria, Teleflex, etc? Depending on who made it, they "may" be willing to fix it for you. It may be along shot, but it might worthwhile to check into that to try and preserve a matching gauge. I have no idea what they would charge, if they would even do it. It's just a thought.
 
I believe (correct me I'm wrong, though, Henry) that while the connectors were not the typical connectors on "any old gauge", there is still the standard wiring on the boat side of the circuit. Meaning, he could wire an off-the-shelf gauge into the system with very little effort. All a fuel gauge needs is the pink sender wire, a key-switched +, ground and the blue wire (for backlighting). While that connector may be a 6-pin connector... only 4 of those pins should be being used. If you still have your gauges, maybe you can confirm (or deny :) ) that, Henry?

Obviously (and I know I'm not telling you anything you don't already know, Henry!), the whole reason for those gauges/connectors was to make installation simpler/faster since gauges could be wired up with a quick "click" from the pre-made harness.

you’re right on the plug connection being more efficient from a manufacturing perspective, not only in speed of assembly, but also from mis-wiring. I passed the old gauges to the new owner of the 280. The good news for Fll280sun is that I’ve been in contact with Bella’s new owner and he is willing to part with the OEM gauge.

On compatibility with generic gauges I had what I thought was an issue with the trim gauge early on. The gauge stopped working shortly after new senders were installed that turned out to be a pinched wire. But before the actual cause was discovered I researched a replacement and was told that the Nextgen gauges were not compatible with analog. It was one of those “the sea ray gauge is five times the cost of a generic, what gives?” conversations.
 
On compatibility with generic gauges I had what I thought was an issue with the trim gauge early on. The gauge stopped working shortly after new senders were installed that turned out to be a pinched wire. But before the actual cause was discovered I researched a replacement and was told that the Nextgen gauges were not compatible with analog. It was one of those “the sea ray gauge is five times the cost of a generic, what gives?” conversations.
Either something is fishy with what you were told, or I'm just not understanding. The NextGen gauges are still 12V gauges, right (unlike the 5V SC)? I don't see any reason why an off-the-shelf gauge couldn't work. Give it 12V+ (switched), ground and a pink wire and it will work. It doesn't communicate with anything - it could even be it's own gauge and not "daisy chained" with the other gauge's wiring. But I can't understand why the existing wiring couldn't be used.

Henry, is it possible that whoever gave you that information was confused and has Smartcraft on their mind? But even if that was the case, an off-the-shelf gauge could still be used (although the sender would have to be replaced).

I'm curious... ;)

But hopefully all of this is a moot point and the new owner can help out.
 
Either something is fishy with what you were told, or I'm just not understanding. The NextGen gauges are still 12V gauges, right (unlike the 5V SC)? I don't see any reason why an off-the-shelf gauge couldn't work. Give it 12V+ (switched), ground and a pink wire and it will work. It doesn't communicate with anything - it could even be it's own gauge and not "daisy chained" with the other gauge's wiring. But I can't understand why the existing wiring couldn't be used.

Henry, is it possible that whoever gave you that information was confused and has Smartcraft on their mind? But even if that was the case, an off-the-shelf gauge could still be used (although the sender would have to be replaced).

I'm curious... ;)

But hopefully all of this is a moot point and the new owner can help out.

As I recall the conversation included using the older Sea Ray gauge. But the conversation was with my local Sea Ray dealer’s service department who also told me that I couldn’t upgrade the boat to Smartcraft because all of the engine, sterndrive and tank sensors would have to be replaced. At the time I chalked that up to they just weren’t interested in doing the job.

Any way this has peaked my interest. I still have the pdf files for the manual and owner’s supplement I’ll see if the wiring diagrams show anything.

I wonder if the Nextgens are SAE J1939 CANBuss based. The engine data comes from the ECM (PCM) and it would explain the extra wires. Smartcraft is just a subset of automotive CANBuss and CANBuss was well entrenched in the automotive industry by the late nineties. CANBuss is definitely different and incompatible with the gauges that were in cars and trucks in the sixties, seventies and eighties.

H
 
Hello,

This is my first post on this site (I have been harassing Henry with questions by email, but not sharing much :rolleyes:).

Yes, I have the gauges, still in their boxes in my conditioned garage and am willing to sell them. I am Tom@MillettLaw.com, if anyone wants to contact me about it.

I hope this is not a violation of this groups policies or ToS, but this is what I have.

Tom

upload_2020-1-17_15-40-7.png
 
Hello,

This is my first post on this site (I have been harassing Henry with questions by email, but not sharing much :rolleyes:).

Yes, I have the gauges, still in their boxes in my conditioned garage and am willing to sell them. I am Tom@MillettLaw.com, if anyone wants to contact me about it.

I hope this is not a violation of this groups policies or ToS, but this is what I have.

Tom

View attachment 78944

Tom,

The labels on the boxes are for the SmartCraft gauges that are on your boat. What’s in those boxes are Sea Ray Nextgen gauges. You need photos of the actual gauges.
H
 
Yes a picture would be helpful. Only interested in the fuel gauge. I was able to purchase all of the other gauges.
 
Hello,

This is my first post on this site (I have been harassing Henry with questions by email, but not sharing much :rolleyes:).

Yes, I have the gauges, still in their boxes in my conditioned garage and am willing to sell them. I am Tom@MillettLaw.com, if anyone wants to contact me about it.

I hope this is not a violation of this groups policies or ToS, but this is what I have.

Tom

View attachment 78944
I have a 2001 280 Sundancer with twin 4.3L and Alpha drives. No SmartCraft system. Just the two tachometers with the small LCD screen at the bottom.

My port tach is malfunctioning. Does the tach you have match the one I have?
 

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Does anyone know where to get a replacement bulb for the spotlight?
Thanks!
 
Does anyone know where to get a replacement bulb for the spotlight?
Thanks!

The OEM light was a shiny all chrome searchlight with a round light housing made by Jabsco. I believe it was a four inch diameter. I don’t know if they still make this light though they do make larger versions. When I replaced the bulb ours I recall it was made by GE.
 

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