Anchoring

play dough

play dough

Well-Known Member
Aug 29, 2011
467
Grand Blanc / Mackinaw City, Michigan
Boat Info
1997 Sea Ray 330DA
Engines
7.4L MPI Mercruiser
I'm new to dealing with a windlass so have done a little research to get the gist of the whole process. I'm in a 330DA with a chain/rope rode. What I understand is that when setting the anchor and at anchor, the rode should be cleated off to take the stress off the windlass...makes sense to me. The issue is, the 330DA only has cleats that aren't friendly to doing that. Should I add a cleat closer to the centerline of the boat or possibly a chock to route the rope rode through and use an existing bow cleat? What's your advice?
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Isn't that what that little "loop" is for right in the middle of the picture?
 
Golfman25 said:
Isn't that what that little "loop" is for right in the middle of the picture?
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The loop is for the safety lanyard. Depending on the depth of normal anchoring areas and length of chain he already has will denote whether he needs a chain stop or a cleat mounted on that piece of starboard. Since it looks like he is in Mi. my guess is a cleat?
 
techmitch said:
The loop is for the safety lanyard. Depending on the depth of normal anchoring areas and length of chain he already has will denote whether he needs a chain stop or a cleat mounted on that piece of starboard. Since it looks like he is in Mi. my guess is a cleat?
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I've never deployed the anchor on this boat, but assume the chain is likely 15' or so with the rest 1/2 three strand line. The starboard panel on the deck is in line with the path of the rode to provide a wear surface. I would think anything mounted there would risk interfering with the rode running off the windlass. It is correct I boat the northern Great Lakes and anchorages are typically less than 20' of depth and sandy bottom for the most part.
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No need to add a cleat unless you just want to. You can use the two on the bow. Use a "standard" length of rope. One end already has a loop, fasten it to one cleat then,place the free end thru a clevis. Attach the clevis to the rode, then tie the free end to other cleat so that the rode hangs below the pulpit. Now the "standard" rope acts as a shock absorber. The method of connection to the rode will depend on if you have chain or rope deployed.
 
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You do need to use a cleat as the windlass is not designed for the load. You can use a bridle as suggested or use one of the bow cleats. It really does not matter. Just don't use the windlass.
 
Skip Boyer said:
No need to add a cleat unless you just want to. You can use the two on the bow. Use a "standard" length of rope. One end already has a loop, fasten it to one cleat then,place the free end thru a clevis. Attach the clevis to the rode, then tie the free end to other cleat so that the rode hangs below the pulpit. Now the "standard" rope acts as a shock absorber. The method of connection to the rode will depend on if you have chain or rope deployed.
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OK...I think that was what I had envisioned given there's no cleat in-line with the anchor rollers. The part I don't understand is the connection of the rode to the "bridle" you describe creating. The rode will be the 1/2" 3 strand. I've seen the method used with a chain rode but not on rope. How do I do that?
 
play dough said:
OK...I think that was what I had envisioned given there's no cleat in-line with the anchor rollers. The part I don't understand is the connection of the rode to the "bridle" you describe creating. The rode will be the 1/2" 3 strand. I've seen the method used with a chain rode but not on rope. How do I do that?
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the easiest way is to make a bridle with 3 legs. 2 longer legs go to your bow cleats and the third shorter leg that is located midway between the two ends is attached to the rode with a rolling hitch.
I have an all chain rode but it works equally as well on a rope rode. You can improve upon it by separating the 3 strands of line on the third leg about 2’ from the end, then braid them back together in the same way a girl braids her hair. It will make the line “softer”, flatter and more flexible, increasing it’s gripping ability.
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my3sons said:
the easiest way is to make a bridle with 3 legs. 2 longer legs go to your bow cleats and the third shorter leg that is located midway between the two ends is attached to the rode with a rolling hitch.
I have an all chain rode but it works equally as well on a rope rode. You can improve upon it by separating the 3 strands of line on the third leg about 2’ from the end, then braid them back together in the same way a girl braids her hair. It will make the line “softer”, flatter and more flexible, increasing it’s gripping ability.View attachment 78497
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OK...I'll give that a try.
 
I use a large stainless mooring snap like this one, with about 10 feet of 1/2 line tied in the middle to the eye. Once the anchor is set, I clip this to the chain and tie the ends to the cleats. I don't like the idea of a bridle connected to the chain below the pulpit on our style boats. If you have to pull anchor quickly in an emergency you want it to be quick and easy to disconnnect. This is.
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play dough said:
OK...I'll give that a try.
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Try it out and see how it goes. If going with a bridle, try experimenting with a homemade set up, at least at first, that way you can adjust leg lengths for your best set up. As an example, I set the two long legs to a length that when it is pulled up through the bow roller, I can easily detach the line from my rode and detach the third leg with everything right there in front of me. You don't want to be hanging over the front of your boat to do this, especially in crappy conditions. The windlass does all the pulling, no reaching over to grab anything and pulling by hand. I clip on and off the third leg so that I can conveniently clip the bridle to the bow rail, ready to go the next night. This picture below shows the bridle, up through the bow roller clipped to the bow rail while underway. If we are going to a marina for a few days, we go through the effort (not much) to take off the whole bridle, but when traveling anchorage to anchorage, the admiral likes easy, and this works best for us. Good luck.
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my3sons said:
Try it out and see how it goes. If going with a bridle, try experimenting with a homemade set up, at least at first, that way you can adjust leg lengths for your best set up. As an example, I set the two long legs to a length that when it is pulled up through the bow roller, I can easily detach the line from my rode and detach the third leg with everything right there in front of me. You don't want to be hanging over the front of your boat to do this, especially in crappy conditions. The windlass does all the pulling, no reaching over to grab anything and pulling by hand. I clip on and off the third leg so that I can conveniently clip the bridle to the bow rail, ready to go the next night. This picture below shows the bridle, up through the bow roller clipped to the bow rail while underway. If we are going to a marina for a few days, we go through the effort (not much) to take off the whole bridle, but when traveling anchorage to anchorage, the admiral likes easy, and this works best for us. Good luck.View attachment 78510
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Thanks for the input. I haven't anchored much and never with a windlass so I'll have to experiment and work out the logistics of the whole process on a calm day sometime this summer. I have a couple future cruises in mind that might involve a little more anchor use. I know it's not rocket science but having no experience with the windlass, I was previously unaware that tying off the rode was even required. Fortunately, I did enough research to figure that out before it became a problem.
 
andy k said:
This is the setup that we often use. We however have 100' of chain so this setup helps soften the harshness of the chain.
anchor-charter-yachts.png
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Great post! Very helpful.
 
andy k said:
This is the setup that we often use. We however have 100' of chain so this setup helps soften the harshness of the chain.
anchor-charter-yachts.png
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Yes...the whole issue is my rope vs. chain rode and how to attach a bridle or optionally just cleat the rode which would be the most convenient solution. I'll play with it in the spring and see what the best solution is for my application. The input is really appreciated.
 
For a day/lunch hook, no reason you can't just cleat the rode to one of your bow cleats. The point is to take the strain off the windlass. For an overnight you can rig a bridle like has been pointed out above - since your rode is rope, just use a rolling hitch to tie the bridle to the rode. The bridle will just let the boat track straight behind the anchor.
 
Can I cleat the rode to one of my bow cleats for an overnight? Is it necessary to use a bridle? I noticed what seemed like a difference of opinion whether to use a bridle vs tying to one cleat. Curious about your thoughts.

Dan
 
You can, but it depends on your boat’s cleat locations.

My bow cleats are far enough back and off center that I don’t do this. This is compounded by my rear anchor cleats being 7 feet off center.

My boat gets too wonky at anchor unless my forward line is straight out off the bow. If it’s windy I can swing around like a pendulum...no good.
 
DanW said:
Can I cleat the rode to one of my bow cleats for an overnight? Is it necessary to use a bridle? I noticed what seemed like a difference of opinion whether to use a bridle vs tying to one cleat. Curious about your thoughts.

Dan
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As long as your happy with how the boat sits with the rode attached to the cleat, there is no problem. Boat's tend to face the windw/current and walk back and forth at anchor, like mentioned above. So the boat sitting a little sideways to the wind/current might annoy you -- but otherwise, there is no problem - granted it is much smaller, but I just cleat my rode to one of the bow cleats. Try it out both ways, neither is right or wrong. Now, if you have a chain rode that is a different story - you want the bridal to act as a snubber, like Keith below has.
 
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I posted this a few months ago and am happy to report it's performed very well. Made it from scrach and all-in it was about $100. Love the Mantus chain hook.
 

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