Sound system upgrade

Thats so funny, it is exactly there and i just forgot about it, its behind the door to the salon!! Thank you so much for that, its been a long day!!
thanks
c

Good deal, I was hoping for something that simple. I have had many days like that, know the feeling well!
 
I have a full blown JL system and absolutely love it. From background music while we're chatting, to boat thumping concert level - it's crisp and clean at all levels.

I had a local shop do the work, to include all new wiring and was very happy I went that route, the results speak for themselves. If you can work a couple of 8.8's into your system, you'll thank me later for it...….amazing speakers.
 
Sure thing
Hey Wylie

Starting to get the parts for upgrading my 380 cockpit speakers/amp(s)

purchased 3 pair of the jl mx650 to replace the kickers the PO installed, 4 stock and they added a pair on the rear, on each side of the “trunk”. Would not have cut these holes, but since they did, it works good for the swimmers

also ordered 1-10” m10ib5 to replace the current sub.

for the Amp, I am trying to figure out if I want to go with the jl m600/6 or wet sounds htx-6

could also do a combination of a m400/4 for the mx650 and a another for the sub,

any advice or experience is appreciated
 
for the Amp, I am trying to figure out if I want to go with the jl m600/6 or wet sounds htx-6
Neither would be my choice in this setup. Id go with the Kicker KXMA800.5 as it has a true low-pass mono woofer amp as opposed to bridging 2 chnls. This is a much better paring with an infinite-baffle woofer.
 
Neither would be my choice in this setup. Id go with the Kicker KXMA800.5 as it has a true low-pass mono woofer amp as opposed to bridging 2 chnls. This is a much better paring with an infinite-baffle woofer.

Thank you for your response Wylie

My thoughts of using a 6 channel and bridging 2 channels for the sub was----I am only using 1-4 ohm sub and when I bridge it, I will get the extra power being at 2ohms.

I was thinking the 5 channel amp would be better when using 2 subs in parallel and getting the impedance down to 2 ohms for the subwoofer channel

I know watt ratings are all a game with manufacturers, how does 50 watts from kicker compare with 75 from JL and 100 from Wet Sounds?

Thanks again, I appreciate your input
 
My thoughts of using a 6 channel and bridging 2 channels for the sub was----I am only using 1-4 ohm sub and when I bridge it, I will get the extra power being at 2ohms
The 600/6 bridged with a 4 ohm load, delivers 200W rms. The woofer chnl of the KXMA800.5 delivers 200W rms to the same 4 ohm woofer. In this comparison, the 800.5 will be running more conservative, while delivering the same wattage. The HTX-6 bridged with a 4 ohm load, will deliver 300W. In terms of just wattage, I like this amp. However, it only has low-pass cross-over setting. Less then ideal for a proper IB setup.

I know watt ratings are all a game with manufacturers, how does 50 watts from kicker compare with 75 from JL and 100 from Wet Sounds?
With 2 pair in the cabin and 1 pair on the transom and using a 4 chnl amp (or 4 chnls of a 5 or 6 chnl amp), you are going to have 2 pair wired together on 2 chnl, and that transom pair on the other 2 chnls. In this configuration, the JL 600/6 is going to deliver a net of 50W to each of those 4 cabin speakers. The HTX-6 will deliver 75. Although its more, its really an inaudible difference.

If you really wanted to push that setup, id go with an HTX-6 for the 4 cabins and 2 transoms, then the HTX-1 for the IB woofer. This would be 100W @ 4 ohm, to each speaker and 300W to the woofer.
 
The 600/6 bridged with a 4 ohm load, delivers 200W rms. The woofer chnl of the KXMA800.5 delivers 200W rms to the same 4 ohm woofer. In this comparison, the 800.5 will be running more conservative, while delivering the same wattage. The HTX-6 bridged with a 4 ohm load, will deliver 300W. In terms of just wattage, I like this amp. However, it only has low-pass cross-over setting. Less then ideal for a proper IB setup.


With 2 pair in the cabin and 1 pair on the transom and using a 4 chnl amp (or 4 chnls of a 5 or 6 chnl amp), you are going to have 2 pair wired together on 2 chnl, and that transom pair on the other 2 chnls. In this configuration, the JL 600/6 is going to deliver a net of 50W to each of those 4 cabin speakers. The HTX-6 will deliver 75. Although its more, its really an inaudible difference.

If you really wanted to push that setup, id go with an HTX-6 for the 4 cabins and 2 transoms, then the HTX-1 for the IB woofer. This would be 100W @ 4 ohm, to each speaker and 300W to the woofer.

thanks for that great explanation Wylie

Not that it makes a difference, but the cabin is on a different head unit/system. The other 4-6.5's will be in the stock locations in the cockpit.

I am interested in what your thoughts are on settings for the IB sub

Thanks again, I appreciate your knowledge!
 
Last edited:
Wylie

could you please explain the crossovers on the different kicker amp compared to the WS and JL and how/why that works better with the IB sub.

Hope you had a merry Christmas
thank you!
Neither would be my choice in this setup. Id go with the Kicker KXMA800.5 as it has a true low-pass mono woofer amp as opposed to bridging 2 chnls. This is a much better paring with an infinite-baffle woofer.
 
With full-range speakers, we typically want to set the lowest frequency the amp sends to a speaker. This is the hi-pass.

With a woofer, we want to set the highest frequency we send to the woofer. This is the low-pass. Most any basic amp will offer high-pass, low-pass and full pass or OFF. With an IB woofer, we need to limit the low side, kind of like we limit the lower side to a full range speaker, but a number of octaves lower. Most full-range amps that would bridge 2 chnls on low-pass to a woofer, will not offer this additional tuning adjustment. This includes the two 6 chnl amps in your list.

A 5 chnl, such as the Kicker KXMA800.5 does off this additional tuning. Reason being, is that fifth chnl is a dedicated woofer channel. A 6 chnl amp goes both low and high, but with a little compromise.
 
With full-range speakers, we typically want to set the lowest frequency the amp sends to a speaker. This is the hi-pass.

With a woofer, we want to set the highest frequency we send to the woofer. This is the low-pass. Most any basic amp will offer high-pass, low-pass and full pass or OFF. With an IB woofer, we need to limit the low side, kind of like we limit the lower side to a full range speaker, but a number of octaves lower. Most full-range amps that would bridge 2 chnls on low-pass to a woofer, will not offer this additional tuning adjustment. This includes the two 6 chnl amps in your list.

A 5 chnl, such as the Kicker KXMA800.5 does off this additional tuning. Reason being, is that fifth chnl is a dedicated woofer channel. A 6 chnl amp goes both low and high, but with a little compromise.

Thanks Wylie! I grew up with capacitors and inductors then went with EQ's with built in crossovers. Loved the low pass and hi pass on the JL Amps I have installed on my last couple boats. I did notice some issues with my last sub (IB) that seemed to not be able to handle the deep bass... so your reasoning and explanation is perfect. I appreciate all the time and energy you spend explaining marine stereo


Thank you!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0213.PNG
    IMG_0213.PNG
    624 KB · Views: 139
Thanks Wylie! I grew up with capacitors and inductors then went with EQ's with built in crossovers. Loved the low pass and hi pass on the JL Amps I have installed on my last couple boats. I did notice some issues with my last sub (IB) that seemed to not be able to handle the deep bass... so your reasoning and explanation is perfect. I appreciate all the time and energy you spend explaining marine stereo


Thank you!
Is there a translation app available for us rank armatures to figure out what the hell your talking about?:D:D
 
Wylie,

One of my JL 10" subs is directly under a cup holder and when washing the cockpit water can get on the sub. Do you know of any type of cover or half cover that could go on the back side of the sub to deflect water?
 
How about putting a cup holder with a drain tube on it so the sub doesn’t get wet.
 
I did notice some issues with my last sub (IB) that seemed to not be able to handle the deep bass...
This is typically a combination of wattage and woofer size. Larger woofer naturally plays deeper notes more efficient. The more wattage, or harder we want to push a driver (speaker or woofer) the more we need to narrow its band width. This is why we use a HP filter for speakers. For a woofer, we use the subsonic filter. Will not find that on most any 2 chnl amp you intend to bridge to a woofer. This includes 2 chnl of a 4, 6 or 8 channel amp such as the JL M600/6 or Wet sounds HTX-6. This is why a 5 chnl amp with a dedicated woofer chnl, is much more ideal.
 
Wylie,

One of my JL 10" subs is directly under a cup holder and when washing the cockpit water can get on the sub. Do you know of any type of cover or half cover that could go on the back side of the sub to deflect water?

If the cupholder has a drain nipple in the bottom/center where the drain hole is, use a small hose and route the drain somewhere that it can drain with no future problems. Also, make sure the lip of the cupholder has a bead of sealer under it. Otherwise, replace the existing cupholder with one that has the drain nipple for a hose.

This one does have the drain and tube attached also I have silicone around to seal it .
Water still gets in.
Answered the original question, before seeing this. You need to try and trace down the point of entry and resolve there. Thats the easiest. Fabricating an umbrella may work, but not easy.

Is there a translation app available for us rank armatures to figure out what the hell your talking about?:D:D
Purchase quality gear through a reputable source that will support you before, during and after. They will answer all the questions about setup and tuning.
 
I was not happy with the output from the (2) 10" subs I installed last spring so I dropped a 18" sub into the seat cavity and put 2500 watts into each voice coil. The CNC grill to protect the sub is on the way.

Photo Dec 20, 11 16 56 AM.jpg
Photo Dec 20, 11 17 28 AM.jpg
 
So the audio system now is this.

4 Zones= Cockpit, Cabin, Aft, Bow.
(1) Apollo RA770
(4) BLUAVE MC9s
(2) BLUAVE M10S4 Subs
(4) BLUAVE MC7s in Pods (2 face bow / 2 face aft)
(1) BLUAVE B800.4 Amp
(1) BLUAVE B1000.1 Amp
(1) NRX300 Wired Remote
(2) ARC Audio 2500.1 Amps
(1) DD9518 Dual Voice Coil Subwoofer
(2) BLUAVE MC9s in transom
(2) BLUAVE EM2.0 Tweeters in transom
(2) BLUAVE EM2.0 Tweeters in radar arch
 
As bass head in High School, I loved a good system. I know a boat is harder to Profuce bass compared to a car, but this seems like a crazy system. Are these max watts, or RMS?
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
112,945
Messages
1,422,741
Members
60,928
Latest member
rkaleda
Back
Top