1981 SRV 245 Sundancer running hot

It looks like this ole girl has been moored for a long time without being looked after. Yep for sure replace the riser hose first and don't forget to use some WD40 or penetrant for all the bolts, prevents the broken bolt issue you have now. Replacing the hose will give you the chance to inspect the riser which I would think is in sorry shape also based upon the looks of everything else. Turning the lower shaft by hand will be hard as theres not much leverage and also because you have a new impeller on a dry housing will have some resistance. I found that removing the complete outdrive makes it easier to work on and to reinstall the lower portion. You just have to make a rack for it and another body to help you lift it. Also you need to inspect the bellows, gears, and gimbel bearing as I am sure it has been awhile since that was done. I live near Lake Mead and this is what outdrives look like after they have been in the water for a long time or moored in saltwater. And last if you have not done this before study up on what to do before you tackle it will save you alot of time and broken parts.
 
It looks like this ole girl has been moored for a long time without being looked after. Yep for sure replace the riser hose first and don't forget to use some WD40 or penetrant for all the bolts, prevents the broken bolt issue you have now. Replacing the hose will give you the chance to inspect the riser which I would think is in sorry shape also based upon the looks of everything else. Turning the lower shaft by hand will be hard as theres not much leverage and also because you have a new impeller on a dry housing will have some resistance. I found that removing the complete outdrive makes it easier to work on and to reinstall the lower portion. You just have to make a rack for it and another body to help you lift it. Also you need to inspect the bellows, gears, and gimbel bearing as I am sure it has been awhile since that was done. I live near Lake Mead and this is what outdrives look like after they have been in the water for a long time or moored in saltwater. And last if you have not done this before study up on what to do before you tackle it will save you alot of time and broken parts.


Hi Loyd,

Yep she's been around, but thankfully the motor has been well cared for. Excellent compression on all 8, oil is like honey and no metal. The outdrive has seen better days, but I have it all off now: new upper, seals, new water pump, shift cable, cable bellows, gaskets and it is going back on this week. Next thing is an ops check to make sure the water circulating system is working properly.
 
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If this is a closed cooling system then consider changing the coolant and giving it a good flushing. Also look at the heatexchangers for any cloggs by taking the end plate off. When running the engine touch the top of the riser with your hand you should be able to hold it there without burning you, if you can't you will need to take off the risers and inspect and clean them and the passages. I had the same problem and I took off the exchangers and flushed them with meratic acid, flushed the cooling system with automotive flush and added new 50/50 antifrezze. I also replaced both risers,cleaned the passages,and put in new shutters that were missing. While you have the outdrive off look inside the exhaust area and see if there is any debris that is obstructing the exhaust. When you replaced the waterpump if there is any fins missing go for a hunt for them in the hoses and other passages. All of these things can cause a over heating problem. I did all this and it fixed my over heating.
 
If this is a closed cooling system then consider changing the coolant and giving it a good flushing. Also look at the heatexchangers for any cloggs by taking the end plate off. When running the engine touch the top of the riser with your hand you should be able to hold it there without burning you, if you can't you will need to take off the risers and inspect and clean them and the passages. I had the same problem and I took off the exchangers and flushed them with meratic acid, flushed the cooling system with automotive flush and added new 50/50 antifrezze. I also replaced both risers,cleaned the passages,and put in new shutters that were missing. While you have the outdrive off look inside the exhaust area and see if there is any debris that is obstructing the exhaust. When you replaced the waterpump if there is any fins missing go for a hunt for them in the hoses and other passages. All of these things can cause a over heating problem. I did all this and it fixed my over heating.

It's got a what the manual calls "Standard Cooling" - no heat exchangers. Removed the outdrives and cleaned all of the debris (there was a boatload).I replaced both of the Exhaust Elbows. Are those what you're calling the risers?

I am fairly sure the root cause of the problem was the water pump in the lower outdrive. It was reassembled without the bottom O-ring that prevents water pressure from venting into the drive.
 
Yes those are risers did you notice if the shutter was still in there? That part is very important as it prevents water from entering your exhaust when back down on the throttle and going into your engine causing hydrolock and engine failure. They are located just past your risers in the the exhaust. A screwed up waterpump and dirty outdrive will sure cause a overheating issue I would think. You should now be able check the risers while the engine is running and should be able to keep your hand on them without getting burn't.
 
Yes those are risers did you notice if the shutter was still in there? That part is very important as it prevents water from entering your exhaust when back down on the throttle and going into your engine causing hydrolock and engine failure. They are located just past your risers in the the exhaust. A screwed up waterpump and dirty outdrive will sure cause a overheating issue I would think. You should now be able check the risers while the engine is running and should be able to keep your hand on them without getting burn't.
I don't think the shutters are there on my boat. They are installed between lower exhaust elbow and the exhaust separator:
flapper.jpg
 
When you replaced the water pump, was the old impeller still in one piece?
 
It is important that you have shutters in place to protect the motor, and if they are missing then that means the pieces are in the exhaust system somewhere blocking the exhaust flow.
 
It is important that you have shutters in place to protect the motor, and if they are missing then that means the pieces are in the exhaust system somewhere blocking the exhaust flow.
It puked them out of the lower when I tore it apart
 
don't forget to use some WD40 or penetrant for all the bolts, prevents the broken bolt issue you have now.
I did, always do, and it doesn't help in this instance. The original bolts are brass going into an aluminum housing, and have been there since manufacture. A 3 year boat mechanic finished my sentence when I was calling him about the Water Pump Flange. He said "lemme guess, you snapped off all 4 bolts? Yep, happens all the time." He has sent so many to a local machine shop that they stopped taking his business.
 

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