Official 400EC thread

Purchased a 97 400ec this past July and after correcting previous owners issues, I'm ready to move on to fixing wear and tear issues. The first is replacing the windshield vent gasket, badly worn. Anybody know where it can be purchased:
3) upgraded stereo to Fusion head unit, JL amp and JL speakers for cockpit, great sound. Now need to replace cabin speakers, Ceiling speakers are straight forward to replace (panel pops out very easily), however having some difficulties removing screen covers in forward stare room, any ideas?

2) replacing foam gasket filler around windshield , any ideas where to buy the filler material?

thanks

I re-sealed the windshield screws & the foam gasket covering the screws was quite brittle and falling apart. Fisheries Supply is an hour drive but there is a West Marine 10 minutes away... Anyway WM price matched Fisheries and it went from $59 to $20...


https://www.fisheriessupply.com/taco-marine-tco-v30-0750b8-1-v30-0750b8-1
 
Has anyone replaced or refinished the countertop in the galley area? I would love to see some pictures.
 
Harold,
I find that incredible, not that I don't believe it. I was looking at that as the way to go and it just didnt seem to be possible. It only took me an hour to disconnect and remove my port engine a few years ago and 1.5 to install and have it running which I think would be easier than removing manifold etc. Was your water heater the original square SeaRay or something else?

Sorry, been busy for a bit so I have not been back on CSR until today.

I have/had the square 11 Gallon (I think) Attwood water heater. This was one of the (thankfully few) things that I actually paid the marina to do. They told me that the heater fit in front of the motor and they were able to get it out that way. They likely moved some hoses (fuel, bilge blower, etc) and the battery charger to make room to get it out, but that is the way they said they did it. They may have removed the starboard manifold as well to get into the space, but I don't remember and have no idea where the billing statement is to look it up.

I can tell you that when I had the engines out of the boat it would have been a world of difference to change it out. In fact, I did move the hot water heater to get access to the bilge blower hoses and replace them (pictures are in this thread somewhere). Getting to the rear bracket on the heater was still a PIA even with the engine out of the way, which likely explains why the rear screw was stripped and not seated all the way........:D

If you have the tools and the time to pull the motor to replace the hot water heater, all I can say is go for it, BUT keep in mind, when you touch something you don't need too there is always a chance that something else can go wrong....;)
 
Harold,
Thanks for the detailed update. I've pulled one of my engines before and its not that hard to do. I'll check it closer this spring but if I have to stand on my head to remove heater with engine in I'll just pull engine.
Thanks for the feedback, it's appreciated!
Greg
 
Having an issue with the starboard side battery and the "house" battery. First symptom was the starboard engine not cranking unless I hit the crossover battery switch. Then the lights would not come on in the cabin.

Checked the voltage on the starboard cranking battery and the house battery and they were both less than 2v. Replaced the starting battery (looked old) and charged the other and every thing works now.

Since the house battery was good, I suspect I have an issue with the converter. I tested both the voltage on both batteries with the battery switch off, and it registers higher than it does with the battery switch on. Shouldn't that be the other way around? I'm new at this, but my understanding is the voltage will register higher with the switch on, as the converter is providing current to charge the battery

1. Is there a better way to test the converter?
2. Do the starboard and the house battery both run on the same converter?


Also, I have a total newbie question. What's the best way to test the breaker/fuses? Do I unscrew them? Do I need to remove the cover to the breaker box?
 
Having an issue with the starboard side battery and the "house" battery. First symptom was the starboard engine not cranking unless I hit the crossover battery switch. Then the lights would not come on in the cabin.

Checked the voltage on the starboard cranking battery and the house battery and they were both less than 2v. Replaced the starting battery (looked old) and charged the other and every thing works now.

Since the house battery was good, I suspect I have an issue with the converter. I tested both the voltage on both batteries with the battery switch off, and it registers higher than it does with the battery switch on. Shouldn't that be the other way around? I'm new at this, but my understanding is the voltage will register higher with the switch on, as the converter is providing current to charge the battery

1. Is there a better way to test the converter?
2. Do the starboard and the house battery both run on the same converter?


Also, I have a total newbie question. What's the best way to test the breaker/fuses? Do I unscrew them? Do I need to remove the cover to the breaker box?
I’m following, I’d like to know myself
 
OK - I figured it out on my own. The breakers are Klixon type reset only circuit breakers. To check them, you need to unscrew the breaker panel. In my case I unscrewed the panel and did a continuity check on each breaker (trying to solve a converter issue). Looks like all three are good so I need to replace the converter.
 
I need to either repair or replace my windless and the 5/8 rope (200’). Curious what others might have done. Upgrade to chain/rope? How much can the locker hold? We boat in Lake Erie and typically only need the anchor during the day, but would like to get setup for the occasional overnight on the hook.
 
I need to either repair or replace my windless and the 5/8 rope (200’). Curious what others might have done. Upgrade to chain/rope? How much can the locker hold? We boat in Lake Erie and typically only need the anchor during the day, but would like to get setup for the occasional overnight on the hook.

You probably have a "Good" brand rope only windlass. They can take yours in trade for a rope/chain model complete with the compatible rode/chain set up.
 
Checking the boat today and got the strong smell of gas. Checked the engine room and saw a puddle of gas under the starboard engine. Sucked out over 5 gallons and still didn't get it all. Getting ready to try to identify the issue. Any suggestions?
 
Could be a variety of things, ruptured gas line, fuel filter seals, hole in tank, fuel pump diaphragm. The tanks are non pressurized however, I've had a spider build nest in tank vent, blocking it, which caused pressure to build up inside tank when the weather warms up due to expansion of gas and then this extra pressure can cause a marginally sealed area to fail.
 
Checking the boat today and got the strong smell of gas. Checked the engine room and saw a puddle of gas under the starboard engine. Sucked out over 5 gallons and still didn't get it all. Getting ready to try to identify the issue. Any suggestions?

Do you have a fume detector in the engine room? I would keep the engine room ventilated until the problem is found and fixed. How full are the tanks?
 
Sorr
Checking the boat today and got the strong smell of gas. Checked the engine room and saw a puddle of gas under the starboard engine. Sucked out over 5 gallons and still didn't get it all. Getting ready to try to identify the issue. Any suggestions?
Wish i could provide some insight. I would definitely like to know what you find.
 
Do you have a fume detector in the engine room? I would keep the engine room ventilated until the problem is found and fixed. How full are the tanks?
No fume detectors in the boat, but this may explain why the CO2 detectors were going off when nothing was running.

Tanks are less than 3/4 full
 
With that much fuel I would think if you look closely it should be evident where it is leaking from. Start at the carb and follow the metal line to fuel pump and all the fittings and fuel filter seal. From there the gas line changes into a flex hose, look for cracks in outter jacket. The line runs along the engine top and is connected to the bottom of the deck leading back to fuel selector switches and second filters. Again, check all fittings and the fuel filter seals, there is a lot going on in that area. From there follow line back to fuel tank. Also, don't forget to check lines going to and around your generator, same thing applies, check lines, fittings and fuel filter. Good luck. Be careful about using electric lighting or doing things around battery that can cause a spark. Gasoline has a VERY low flashpoint, somwhere around -40F to45F. Keep us posted!
 
With that much fuel I would think if you look closely it should be evident where it is leaking from. Start at the carb and follow the metal line to fuel pump and all the fittings and fuel filter seal. From there the gas line changes into a flex hose, look for cracks in outter jacket. The line runs along the engine top and is connected to the bottom of the deck leading back to fuel selector switches and second filters. Again, check all fittings and the fuel filter seals, there is a lot going on in that area. From there follow line back to fuel tank. Also, don't forget to check lines going to and around your generator, same thing applies, check lines, fittings and fuel filter. Good luck. Be careful about using electric lighting or doing things around battery that can cause a spark. Gasoline has a VERY low fshpoint, somwhere around -40F to45F. Keep us posted!
Did some detective work today and it Looks like its leaking from two fittings in the rear of engine under the port side. Getting the mercruiser manual out
 
Did some detective work today and it Looks like its leaking from two fittings in the rear of engine under the port side. Getting the mercruiser manual out

Does the boat have the manual fuel cross over valves. If so you can shut off the fuel flow to each motor to prevent any more fuel leakage. While the repairs are made. KEEP THE BILGE VENTILATED!!!
 
Does the boat have the manual fuel cross over valves. If so you can shut off the fuel flow to each motor to prevent any more fuel leakage. While the repairs are made. KEEP THE BILGE VENTILATED!!!
Great advice.
 

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