Can backplates from bow rail cause moisture?

I would pick up a couple of portable dehumidifiers and some small portable fans. get the air moving and set/mount the dehumidifiers on the counters with the drain hoses going into the sink overboard discharges as soon as possible. Get her completely dried out.
Mold is a very serious/dangerous problem.
 
Marc - there is a company here called Flight Systems (http://www.flightsystems.com/). They fix the CruiseAir SMX control panels. I have not used them, but some here have and seem to be very pleased with their work. You might want to contact them about your inop controller...
Tx for that tip only we live in the Netherlands, I already did some research for a new panel and it’s on my to do list for spring. Maybe i order earlier
 
On many places the vinyl on the sides are wet :(, ceiling vinyl seems dry.
The hatches i removed from outside. The vinyl I didn’t touch. After rebedding, with inside frame removed, I checked evrything with spraying water all around the hatch and no leaks anymore.

1 question about the ac, I thought that ac Dehumidify only when it operates on cooling. On previous boats we also used an electric heater and never had this problems. I read the manual and when programmed dehumidify mode the system first use the fan for couple minutes and then cooling to dehumidify and stop, after couple minutes he repeat same process.

at the moment is 8 degrees in daytime and around 1-2 at night.
I assume you mean 8* C not 8*F? What is the difference in the humidity level between inside and outside?
 
Yes 8* C. I didn’t measure outside humidity but I think there it’s higher. Really unbelievable rain period for more then 2 months.

this midday I put on the dehumidify program in masterbedroom. Strange thing that my humidity gauge run higher every hour.

Today I received the drawings from sea Ray with the hidden compartments and read also an article on website: https://www.yachtsurvey.com/internal_hull_accessibility.htm
This condense is so much that I think more and more that there is water in a hidden compartment. I am affraid of drilling a hole though. In the guestroom (portelde) there is a hatch with a length up to the masterbedroom and underneath that is my suspicion compartment.
in masterbedroom on port side there was a navigation light leak for a very long time. Maybe water rotten the bulkhead and went to that compartment.
Is this then also the cause that humidity gauge run up by dehumidify program?

just stopped with the program to get a better temperature in masterbedroom before sleeping. I switched the AC from dehumidify to heater. All mirrors get fogged in short time and humidity gauge went even higher :( that was probably not a good move.
 
Update:

The day after my last post I placed a dehumidifier. First in salon and result was seen in a night, no more condensation on portlights. Since then I placed the dehumidifier in masterbedroom, were the most moisture is. By the end of the day also no condensation at the portlights. In the night we put the dehumidifier off so we can get a silent sleep.

When we woke up a lot of condensation at the portlights in masterbedroom. No condensation at the portlights in salon. And there in salon we cook and enter true the door many times.

Today my plan was to drill a hole in the hidden compartments because my suspicion of water inside that compartments but the day went different. This is on port side of masterbedroom

I opened some hatches in cupboards in wardrobe clauset and in bathroom. There were so many drops hanging above wardrobe and bathroom that I think i get a lot of condensation when we shower. Yes I put on the powervent when we shower. I dried everything by hand and tomorrow will check when we take a shower. This is maybe the cause on starport side of masterbedroom. After i dried everything I sprayed water on the deck for 15 minutes but not a drip came inside.

i checked the tubes on the powervent and that’s ok so a lot of condensation slips true the cupboards and maybe the lights. Anyone had this situation before?

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Oeps have to make a correction on my previous post according to the powervents while taking shower.
I just had dinners with my girlfriend and told her my findings of today and then she said that last month she turned on the powervents AFTER she showered because it was getting cold.

grrr just took an extra shower with vent on and leave the vent on afterwards for 15 min and dried the showerarea. No condensation was seen.

When I opened a cupboard door in bathroom I felt a cold wind coming in though, probably the ventopening from engine room brings cold air to the front true holes af cables etc....
 
Marc - I think you've found the problem - high humidity in the cabin. We run the vent fan during and after our showers - as you've stated - for about 15 minutes. Also, in cold weather, we put snap on vent covers over our engine room vents, in addition to having a bilge heater, we have 3 electric heaters in the cabin set on 55°F (17°C). This keeps the cabin humidity at 50%. No condensation problems. I don't use the CruiseAir heat function since the water temp in Chattanooga can drop to 38-40°F(~7°C), and the units can freeze if providing heat at that water temp and below. I have remote temp/humidity monitors in all the compartments and bilge (made by LaCrosse) so I can monitor temp and humidity when I am away from the boat. Running dehumidifiers and electric cabin heaters is not cheap (in Tennessee we pay about $.11 per kilowatt hour of electricity) - I bet you pay a lot more in Europe - so my monthly heating bill runs $100-$120US.

This is the first winter we have not had our boat in the warmth of Florida, and so far, the cabin heaters are working fine and my humidity is low at 50%.
 
It seems like you're getting closer and closer to get this addressed, Marc. Keep looking for that trapped water - even if it's just a small hole you can insert a snake camera into. As far as the humidity showing up in the morning... obviously the dehumidifier being off overnight attributed to that, but keep in mind that we (humans) are a very real source of humidity. Both from our body and our breath.

For now - especially at certain times of the year - I think it would be best to just run that dehumidifier round the clock (when possible).

When I opened a cupboard door in bathroom I felt a cold wind coming in though, probably the ventopening from engine room brings cold air to the front true holes af cables etc....
If you can get to right area in the bilge where the cables go through, get down there with a few tubes of silicone caulk/sealant and plug up those holes real well.

The air could be coming from other parts of the boat, too. For example, the head compartment doesn't fit tightly against the outer hull - there is a gap there. And that gap very well might extend to (connect to) below the head and salon floor.
 
Wow that’s cheap $0,11. At my home I pay €0,12 but here in our harbour we pay €0,33 grrrr.

yes I hope I found the problem on starport side. Tomorrow gonna dril a hole.

Tomorrow I also gonna put plastic on engine room vents. The plastic that you use for bookcovers. In coming week an antifreeze switch will be delivered as well as a small heater that will let the engine room not under 5°C.

in salon we have 1 electric heater that heats the whole boat to 18°C and that’s ok for us.

It’s good to live and we planning to stay in december, January february also to watch the spring coming

q3 formula 1 starts now, got to see that
 
If you can get to right area in the bilge where the cables go through, get down there with a few tubes of silicone caulk/sealant and plug up those holes real well.

The air could be coming from other parts of the boat, too. For example, the head compartment doesn't fit tightly against the outer hull - there is a gap there. And that gap very well might extend to (connect to) below the head and salon floor.

yes from bow is also possible, I think I put some foam at the openings, but first I wait what happens when the engine vents are closed by plastic folie .

I update tomorrow when i drilled a hole.
 
yes from bow is also possible, I think I put some foam at the openings, but first I wait what happens when the engine vents are closed by plastic folie .

I update tomorrow when i drilled a hole.
Oh... to add to that... there already should be silicone in any holes through the engine room bulkhead. The purpose is to prevent not just cool or hot engine room air, but primarily to keep engine room smells/fumes/etc away from the living area. Ideally, you would just be checking and filling in any small gaps.

Good luck!
 
Drilling update:

First thing I did when I woke up was checking the condensation around the ceiling above the bathroom, unfortunately I saw some drops of water hanging. Maybe this is old moisture because I couldn’t dry exactly above the shower area because I couldn’t reach.

Today was drilling day,
The suspected compartment is under a hatch in the guestroom (red line in drawing)
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i measured everything and drilled first a 10 mm hole and put a stick in it to see if it was wet, yes it was wet. Then I drilled a larger hole to put a water vacuum cleaner in it. I collected around 20 liter out of it. I expected more though. The length of the compartment is around 2 meters but couldn’t put the hose in it that far. Maybe another bulkhead? Or maybe foam.
I decided to drill another hole to see if there was a bulkhead and if not then there is some ventilation. Of there was a bulkhead the water had to be higher at that hole. After drilling there was no water to collect. I grabbed a piece of foam out and I squeezed it, the foam was full of water. I don’t know how I can get all the water out of the foam in short time so I put the dehumidifier in the guestroom and let him do the job. Any suggestions on drying are welcome.

(Last two photo’s clockwise)
 
Happy you've found water with your first two exploratory wells , I have som wet foam areas so am following your post. One idea I had first was too dangerous involving flammable solvents so I'm still working the problem out mentally and hoping for a minimally invasive procedure that could help others. I am thinking of making a wire wisk along the lines of a plumber's snake that can be spun in the cavity through a relatively small hole or series of holes in the affected areas to shred the foam to small enough pieces that would allow for either vacuume extraction or pressure exerted from a small hole higher up in the cavity wall.
Another idea is an attachment to a pressure washing hose with multiple jets that could be inserted through a small hole and shred the foam for extraction. I will of course share results if and when I come up with a method that works and is safe. Meanwhile if you try any of these methods and come with solutions or problems in the process please share
 
Dangerous solvents I won’t use because the solvents can damage the polyester.

First thing what I am thinking off when the humidifier won’t dry it all is to make a larger opening and then bit by bit extracting the foam and suck it up with a vacuum cleaner.

But when no new water comes to the foam, when there are ventilation holes, eventually the foam has to dry
 

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