Has anyone replaced their water hoses?

Carpediem44DB

Carpediem44DB

Well-Known Member
Aug 18, 2015
3,230
Sanfransico Bay area
Boat Info
2000 Carver 506
2006 44 DB Sedan Bridge
Engines
Volvo TAMD 74 P
90A297EE-23AD-466D-B502-25D1599261A3.jpeg
This hose is a little on the short side and needs replaced. Wondering best source.
Looks like it will need to be custom made or lengthened with something after market.
Thanks
Carpe Diem
 
To lengthen it:
-- (2) 1/2" male barb fittings
-- (4) SS hose clamps
-- 6" or 12" of 1/2" reinforced hose (any color... even clear)

Cut the red hose somewhere in the middle that's convenient, then add the "addition" into the hose.

If you want to make it look a little nicer, use Oetiker clamps instead of regular hose clamps... although you'll need the Oetiker (ear clamp) crimp tool, too.
 
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Pex 1/2” pipe works great. It is not 15mm hose. I replumbed the piping on the port end on my transom locker with it. The 1/2” pex spring clamps will work great on the pex but are too small for the existing hose. TTMOTT used worm gear clamps and I used spring clamps ordered from McMaster Carr. I have had no issues. I replaced about 90% of my female connectors. I used the clamps Dennis speaks of above.
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Bennett
 
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Thanks guys, some how I knew it wouldn’t take long to get a good solution.
This is my friends 420, he noticed water in his forward bilge but no evidence of any water leaks or trails up front. This leak is at the water heater in the engine room and water just making its way forward. He shut off the water and is vacuuming the bilges dry and we will see it that indeed is the source.
Carpe Diem
 
I believe this is the post where I tried to explain the solution to the leaking fittings. In the pic, the crimp is brass and over time it slowly relaxes and a drip develops. Maybe this will help down the road.

http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/water-hose-leaks.86948/#post-981254

Click on the thread within the thread above and you will see the whole story from ttmott and myself.

Bennett
 
bbwhitejr said:
Pex 1/2” pipe works great. It is not 15mm hose. I replumbed the piping on the port end on my transom locker with it. The 1/2” pex spring clamps will work great on the pex but are too small for the existing hose. TTMOTT used worm gear clamps and I used spring clamps ordered from McMaster Carr. I have had no issues. I replaced about 90% of my female connectors. I used the clamps Dennis speaks of above.
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Bennett
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I think the larger boats were built with ½” and the smaller boats are 15mm. I know our 280 was 15mm; I bought ½” parts to build a water heater by pass and had to send it all back and get 15.

H
 
Henry Boyd said:
I think the larger boats were built with ½” and the smaller boats are 15mm. I know our 280 was 15mm; I bought ½” parts to build a water heater by pass and had to send it all back and get 15.

H
Click to expand...

I believe you are 100% correct. The issue is that the OEM hose is very thick walled and the Pex clamps will not slide onto it.

Bennett
 
Henry Boyd said:
BTW, I have a small supply of 15mm red and blue tubing and some misc fittings (new boat is ½" based) that is free to anyone who is willing to pay for the shipping.
Click to expand...

I’ll take them for spares. Shipping is to 11735. I can either a Venmo or PayPal the shipping costs to you.
 
Smaller boats actually could have been EITHER 15mm or 1/2" - even amongst the same model. It was often dependent on which plant it was made in and/or where along it's model year run it was. Kinda confusing.

FYI... for those 1/2" diameter hoses (NOT PEX), you can get the Oetiker/ear/pinch clamps in one size larger and they'll work well with a good tool. In many cases, you can buy those types of clamps based on a "range" that they will fit.
 
A little update on my buddies’ water hose repair. He bought a 90 degree female connector and a 10 inch SS flex faucet line to do the repair. The 90 to relieve the tension on the fitting and the faucet line to provide the extra length. Worked great until he left the boat over night with the water heater on to test it out. When the hose heated up it relaxed at the clamp fitting and showered his bilge and everything in it including his inverter. He now has no AC power. His $10 water leak will now cost $1500 and change!
Carpe Diem
 
Carpediem44DB said:
A little update on my buddies’ water hose repair. He bought a 90 degree female connector and a 10 inch SS flex faucet line to do the repair. The 90 to relieve the tension on the fitting and the faucet line to provide the extra length. Worked great until he left the boat over night with the water heater on to test it out. When the hose heated up it relaxed at the clamp fitting and showered his bilge and everything in it including his inverter. He now has no AC power. His $10 water leak will now cost $1500 and change!
Carpe Diem
Click to expand...
Same experience I had - the solution was to heat the end of the hose with a heat gun before clamping (it will get nice and soft and conform to the fitting well with the clamp); that hose is both too large of and ID to fit the barbed fittings and too hard to squeeze down on the barb when cold. Tom
 
Another update on Sea Renity's water leak/ inverter failure. After several hours of head scratching and wire chasing with no progress on re-establishing AC power, it was decided that the inverter was toast. Harold ordered a new one and due to the location it is installed and not wanting to risk a back injury, He had our local Sea Ray mechanic come out to do the replacement. Today the unit was replaced and there was still no AC power! Turns out the slo blo fuse in the main battery circuit was blown. The fuse was buried in the loom and difficult to find. So now Harold has a spare inverter.
This goes to illustrate the importance of complete documentation of any changes made to the wiring systems and update schematics in the manual for future trouble shooting. It was very difficult to figure out which of the 9 batteries in the bilge were house batteries verses engine start or dedicated inverter supply batteries. A simple schematic and battery labels would have probably save a ton of time and money.
Carpe Diem
 
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