Carpet replacement / Vinyl plank install in a 2006 380DA

Matt Michels

Member
Apr 12, 2019
49
Centreville, VA
Boat Info
2006 Sea Ray 380DA
Engines
Yanmar Diesel
Hi Everyone.

First of all, thank you all for the great posts over the years. I just bought a 2006 SeaRay 380 that needed some work, so I've been using your advise on this site extensively. I figured I should do my part in helping others here, so I documented my replacement of the old carpet with Ridged Vinyl plank. There are a ton of pics, so I'll try to discuss each one with explanation and issue areas.
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Here are pics of the carpet removal. I used vice grips to get a hold of the carpet to pull it out. SeaRay did use thick carpet, so most of it came up in one piece. After pulling it up, there was some carpet strand residue remaining. I tried a palm sander, but found out a 6" drywall knife worked better. After scraping the floor, I then used the palm sander to smooth things out and get off as much glue residue as I could. I then vacuumed and wiped everything down a few times with a damp towel. I did find a few odd bumps in the floor, as well as an L bracket attached to one of the walls. I changed the screws in the L brackets to try to sink them down as much as possible, and used filler for the strange bumps / divets. Also, just as an FYI, I pulled out the couch, carpeted trim around the bathroom and stairs, as well as the door frame.
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Also, what are the metal edges that I saw on the Facebook photos? How do they attach? This is awesome
 
I then did a dry run, cutting everything exactly as I wanted it. This is a floating floor, but I was snapping it and gluing it. I also included pics of all the materials I used. In addition, I bought a vinyl plank cutter on Amazon that could handle the 6.5mm planks that I bought.
ALSO, the plank cutter in the pictures does NOT work for 6.5mm plank. I bought a different one on Amazon and returned this one.
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Lastly what would you say was the total cost?
 
I then put pulled it up and started gluing. Pointers. 1. Have the tongue (the long part of the plank snap) as your first piece so you can snap everything downward into it. The glue is a mess, so this will help. Also, as you dry run everything perfectly, put some in some pilot holes and screw down the first plank so you can mark your start. In my boat, this plank area is under the couch. This is because the hatch planks have to match perfect. I then had to build new hatch covers. The old ones were a great fit with carpet. Without carpet, however, they were too small. In my case, I had to add a 1/4" to the size of the hatch. I rebuilt them out of some finished ply from HomeDepot, and added height and strength with additional framing. As you measure after the carpet is removed, you will see there is a huge difference. I was able to use the scraps from the hatch cut outs for the hatch covers
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From here, I attached the plank to the new hatch and began creating the trim pieces. I used aluminum L pieces that were 1/4" x 1", or about that dimension. I got them from Wholesale Glass and Supplies online. Shipping is expensive, so order a ton of extra in case you mess up. Also, get a good metal blade for your compound mitrebox. I used a mitre box, dremmel, and a grinder in this process. Just an FYI, I also ordered from New York Metals. They have great molding as well. Because I neglected to order all at once, and didnt include much waste in my cutting / screw ups, I ended up paying about $120 in shipping alone. One more thing. Al of my screw holes threw the aluminum were predrilled, then I countersunk all holes so my screws would not cause an issue. The 1/4" countersink bit was pretty cheap on Amazon
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Almost done....
I then finished the rest of the trim around the door frame, hatch frame, and drop down. I wasnt going to pull the carpet out of the aft cabin area, but had all the material and did it last minute. It took me 3 hours to make that decision, take out the carpet and put the whole floor down. Pretty easy. Also, I put as much heavy stuff on the floor as I cold to let the glue dry.
 

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DONE. Here are the final picks with all the trim in place, including the carpeted trim around the bathroom and stairs. FYI, the carpeted trim, after adding the height of the floor, needed to be cut down. I pulled the carpet back and cut 1/4" off the plywood, and then stapled the carpet back on.
Well, That's it. It took about 2 weeks, give or take, doing a little here and there. I tried to do as much as I could as home. I live about 45 minutes from the boat. All in all, it cost about $160 for the floor, $50 for the glue and other misc materials, $130 for the plank cutter, $20 for SS screws and a countersink bit, $50 for a good mitre blade (12"), $200-$250 for the aluminum trim (mainly because I screwed up the shipping by not ordering enough. About $650ish total.
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Also, what are the metal edges that I saw on the Facebook photos? How do they attach? This is awesome
I did a lot of cutting and grinding for the metal corners. Aluminum is a softer metal, so the new blade was able to grind a lot. Also, I had the Dremmel help when the mitre was just too big and needed something more precise. As far as the screw holes, everything was predrilled and countersunk. This was a pain, so I did it mostly at home over the trash can.
 
Lastly what would you say was the total cost?
About $650 total, but that includes the plank cutter and a ton of extra material.

ALSO, the plank cutter in the pictures does NOT work for 6.5mm plank. I bought a different one on Amazon and returned this one.
 
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Great look.
Outstanding 'how to' post
I started doing this job when I had a 400DA but I gave up and just recarpited the darned thing. My hats off to you, great job
 
Besides those aluminum trims looks great

Very well thought out. Good workmanship.
One of the reasons I went back with carpet was all the glue that SeaRay used in sticking the original stuff to the deck. I mean it was at least 1/2" thick. No way this old boy was ever gonna get anywhere near a level enough surface to slap down a wooden floor
 
Very well thought out. Good workmanship.
One of the reasons I went back with carpet was all the glue that SeaRay used in sticking the original stuff to the deck. I mean it was at least 1/2" thick. No way this old boy was ever gonna get anywhere near a level enough surface to slap down a wooden floor
1/4 plywood as a base would solve that.
 
DONE. Here are the final picks with all the trim in place, including the carpeted trim around the bathroom and stairs. FYI, the carpeted trim, after adding the height of the floor, needed to be cut down. I pulled the carpet back and cut 1/4" off the plywood, and then stapled the carpet back on.
Well, That's it. It took about 2 weeks, give or take, doing a little here and there. I tried to do as much as I could as home. I live about 45 minutes from the boat. All in all, it cost about $160 for the floor, $50 for the glue and other misc materials, $130 for the plank cutter, $20 for SS screws and a countersink bit, $50 for a good mitre blade (12"), $200-$250 for the aluminum trim (mainly because I screwed up the shipping by not ordering enough. About $650ish total.
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Nice job Looks great!
 

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