1998 270 DA - New to Me - Needs parts and advice

Brandon270DA

New Member
Sep 2, 2019
26
Chesapeake, VA
Boat Info
1998 270 Sundancer DA "Wide"
Engines
7.4L (454) Mercruiser w/Bravo III Drive
I've been around boats all my life but finally have one to call my own. Came across a 1998 270DA that was too good of a deal to let slide. It was poorly described, wrong year, didn't have any options listed and had bad pictures. PO passed and his wife doesn't have many answers, some pieces missing and some title issues but the boat is awesome - and most importantly my Admiral is on board with the purchase.

Now I just need to break it to my dad that 1) my boat is 1 foot longer than his Albemarle and 2) it isn't an offshore fishing boat. I have 4 kids, access to fishing boat and live 2 miles from the IC so a Cruiser fit the bill.

The boat is in good shape. Knew I had a good deal when I saw the generator, cruise air, heat, 3 batteries, and condition of the interior. I can handle all the cosmetics (scrub, remove mildew, compound, polish, seal, bottom paint) and most mechanical but need some help with specific boat things. I've read all 26 pages of the late 90's 270 thread and 100 other threads. New Burl instruments blanks and switches are ordered from Flouder Pounder. I want the matching steering wheel, too but $300 is steep when its a fairly generic piece (even if they don't look as nice as his).

First, the boat was last run in December 2018. It has been kept in a dry storage for 11 years by PO. It has bottom paint so must have been in the water at some point. It was probably winterized in 2018 and probably had non-ethanol fuel from the marina. I knew the 7.4 needed a water pump and that is getting fixed this week. Mechanic is going to look at risers while he's in there. I haven't started the boat but it turns over when I bump it. Figure I'd need to change the fuel, oil and maybe some bravo iii maintenance. 255hrs on motor according to gauge on dash. Any bullet point tips about what to do before I break something would be helpful! Same for the generator. I've never had one of these but they look fun. It bumps but figure I should change some fluids in it somewhere first and get it in the water. 155hrs on it. Can I run it while out of the water? I imagine it gets water from a separate thru-hull from the engine.

I'm missing the aft table. I've seen where I can buy aftermarkets but would like to find OEM the sunpad. Any help with this? What other years fit?

The boat came with (not in great condition) visors, sides, camper sides and camper aft curtain from Great Lakes. It, however, DID NOT have the frame/bows and bimini top or camper frame/bows and top. I don't want to drop $2000 on at top from RNR but I'd really like something to block the sun on the cockpit...and they are on sale for 2 more days.

With the batteries charged, everything in the boat turned on except the horn (maybe runs off compressed air from motor...) and the radio. Couldn't find any way to get the Clarion to power on.

There is one piece of cockpit carpet for the little step down. Again, Great Lakes, snap down but the rest of it is gone. I'm looking at getting the carpet, laying it out myself and having the edges sewn if the snaps are already in the boat. Can't remember right now.

The center section of the windshield is about and inch too wide when closed. Found this while cleaning yesterday. Didn't notice it when I bought it. Not sure if this was a replacement from another boat or if the sides are bent.

The bilge needs to be cleaned. A fair number of stress cracks in fiberglass in cockpit edges. No soft spots and stringers look good.


Hopefully, I can get some hours on the water before it gets cold! Always wanted to do the run from Coinjock Marina up to Norfolk Waterside and up the Chesapeake Bay - Maybe National Harbor or Annapolis.
 
Welcome Brandon - The run up the Chesapeake is beautiful. We do it every season. We are a few miles up in the Potomac River off the Lower Chesapeake. Annapolis is really nice and there are several marinas and locations nearby to visit. Sounds like you are on the right track with motor, drive and genny. May want to consider plugs and fuel filters as well. May be ok, but not knowing the history of when last changed, better off to start fresh. Also may want to have outdrive serviced. Yes Genny has its own water source, thru hull in bilge, must have water source to run just like motor. Horn is most likely the standard "duck" horn located under a cover in the bow. It is electric and somewhat exposed to the elements, may be corroded wires, bad horn, fuse, etc. Not sure about the 270, but check on your dash for anything that may power up your Clarion. On many SR boats there is a switch that powers the system. Mine is on stbd switch pad in upper right corner. Windshield situation is puzzling. Best of luck and enjoy the resurrection. maybe see you on the water next season.
 
Mechanic at the marina told me the water pump was bad on the 7.4 Mercruiser when I bought it. When they went to sell the boat, in late 2018 before the owner passed away, they noticed water was not coming out. I asked if this was simply an impeller and the mechanic told me it would be the whole pump and about $600-$700.

Is there some way the impeller can not fail and the water pump still be bad? Maybe scratches on the interior housing but that would only be known after pulling the pump and inspecting it. Still, doesn't seem like that would cause water not to be pumping at all. Looking at parts the whole pump assembly would be around $400 but changing an impeller is steep at $600 on a hunch. Maybe he is talking about the recirculating pump. I still haven't started the boat to look at symptoms myself. How should I be reading this?
 
It has only missed the start of this season so really should only need regular maintenance stuff done. Fluids, filters, lubing, drive service, etc. The impeller needs to be changed for sure. There are kits now available that have backing plates that take the scoring out of the equation. If there is a shaft issue on a pump, that would require a total replacement. Another thing that needs to be checked is the tube that comes through the transom from the outdrive that supplies the raw water to cool the engine. It is at the top of the drive transom assembly. This tube can (and many do) get plugged up with corrosion which limits its capability to provide enough water to the pump to effectively cool the engine. This is called Bravoitis. You can google it to better understand and there is also several threads on CSR about it. Unless the impeller is totally trashed, it should move some water.
I would make an appointment with your mechanic to start it up with him there if you are not comfortable doing it on your own. Start it up and see how the seawater pump does. Keep close eye on engine temp. Also, if your are not familiar with a component or part that is said to need replacing, ask why it needs to be replaced. Make the mechanic explain what exactly the problem is and why it needs replaced. I am not a big fan of the "throw money at it" every time there is a problem. There are other issues that could be causing a problem, i.e. Bravoitis. For example: Weak batteries can cause all kinds of problems, a bad ground or a bad plug wire that is shorting out against the block, dirty or loose electrical/battery/starter/alternator connections. There are tons of things that cost little or nothing in parts. You should go over the motor and connections yourself and remove and clean any that appear corroded/dirty also making sure everything is nice and tight. Definitely have it checked for the bravoitis. Do this before or during the servicing of the outdrive. Merc has a replacement kit for this that replaces the soft hose with a rigid plastic one to eliminate the issue. Boat repair and maintenance is costly. If you are inclined, best to learn and become a do-it-yourselfer. You will save a bundle of money. You tube and fellow boaters are a wonderful resource also. Don't be afraid to get another opinion on anything.
 
Korkie,

Thanks for the advice. With Hurricane Dorian moving out I’ll get up to the marina this week, pull some parts and get pictures of what I’m working with.

I’ve been all through YouTube and CSR. Found lots of good info on bravoitis and other common issues while buying the boat. All in it seems like I ended up with one of the best years/models of used cruiser once I get all the bugs ironed out.

Cheers!
 
Drove the 1.5 hours to the marina. Not a lot of progress with 4 small children in tow but they like to play in the cabin asked how long I was going to be less than 10 times and commented about the heat less then 100. Everyone was hungry and had to go to the bathroom within seconds of raising the engine lid. I worked from a work rack behind the marina.

Removed serpentine belt and a few hoses but couldn't get any good angle to get sea water pump off. The bolts on front were pretty rusted and the space is deep and tight. I think the engine will have to come out. Hoses that carried the sea water were 'crunchy'. Upon inspection they didn't look clogged but there was brown/orange corrosion when I washed through them. Not a great sign.

Because I had to see for myself how much water was getting pulled by the sea water pump I put on the muffs and managed to start the engine for the first time for a few seconds. It started with no problem but no water came out of the transom - none - so I shut her down for another day. Muffs didn't suck to outdrive as expected. It's a result and now I know more. Took the water hose to the engine compartment and pushed fresh water through a couple lines. None of the ones for good troubleshooting were accessible in a short amount of time. Water flowed fine from the thermostat housing to the starboard manifold and out the transom. It was a little brown. Water did not flow fine from thermostat housing down toward power steering pump and fuel cooler (back toward impeller). It came back at me as brown water.

IMG_4302.JPEG

I have a hunch something is just completely blocked/clogged. New raw water pump and a check for bravoitis is next up. Impeller kit is on the boat waiting to be installed.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/sierra--water-pump-kit-for-mercruiser-stern-drives--1670090

Pulled a couple plugs. I think they look just okay. Engine ran great after this shot (I wiped the threads, of course):
IMG_4320.jpg


Checked starboard elbow. I didn't think the corrosion was too bad for what it could be Looking down into riser:
IMG_4328.JPEG

IMG_4326.JPEG


The Drive Oil Reservoir bottle had 1/2" of thick slime sitting in it. Some quick Google searching revealed this was normal with Quicksilver Pro/Premium oil and that this should be cleaned out every season so it actually functions. Pipe needs to be unclogged as well.
IMG_4305.JPEG


Engine Oil looked great when I checked it. Good level and golden as if it was changed recently. Filter looked brand new, too. I

When I activated the bilge switches by twisting the float where the wires go into the side the top one made noise happen but the bottom one (the one I'm pointing to) didn't. Something to investigate another day.
IMG_4306.JPEG

Anybody know how which way this handle is supposed to go while running? Three way diversion valve. Something to play with after she gets running.
IMG_4315.JPEG

Also searching for AC Pump that works. Apparently this was broken too when I bought it. Next time at the marina I'll get it wet and hook it to 120V to see if I have an electrical problem, motor problem or impeller problem. Should have looked at the sea strainer while I was there. Replacement motors are confusing online. The tag says Cruisair PMP500. Cruisair is now Dometic and they don't specifically list a replacement but I can find similar looking 490GPH 110V pumps all day long. This will be easy to fix.
IMG_4312.JPEG

Center Windshield. Anyone have a measurement of what this is supposed to be. I don't see any damage like the port or starboard side has been bent down. It isn't close to closing. I'm thinking its from a different boat.
IMG_4332.JPEG

Kohler Generator coolant reserve tank had this sludge in the bottom of it (stuck to black hose). That can't be good. Something to fix once I've got her in the water and running.
IMG_4309.JPEG

Got the VHF to 'work' by using it properly after reading the manual and hitting the right buttons.

Didn't play with the Clarion today or the horn.

Shore power worked from the marina power and she got vacuumed. Microwave and refrigerator work perfectly.

After all the above gets sorted its on to water faucets, shower, wash down.
 
All fluids, impeller and water pump replaced. Had some issues with bravo-itis and some crappy mechanic work on another thread. But, while the engine was out I did clean the bilge with a whole bottle of degreaser and toilet scrub brush. Looks awesome. Took a little over an hour.

Went to the boat this morning and re-installed the ac pump that I fixed at the house by taking it apart cleaning the ceramic parts and putting it back together. Magnet wasn’t broken so this one cost me $0. Bench tested it by jamming the wires in the electrical socket while running water over the pump in the sink. Installed and working in the boat.

Brought the center windshield home that was too big to close. The walkthrough measures 18 3/4 at the top and 19 1/2 at the bottom. My center windshield is about 1” too big to fit. This will be next to research and fix. Didn’t check this when I bought the boat - it was always open.

Also pulled the top gauge cluster. Will be replacing the faceplate with the one from FP marine this weekend. Lots of wires in there - looks time consuming unless the bezels screw off from the front. The bolts that hold pressure on the gauges double as grounding/electrical connections so it looks like they all have to come off.

fun times.
 
The hinge on the top of the window looks to be bent. Bend it back in place and I bet it will close. I had center windows on 2 boats and both were a tight fix.

Measure the top and bottom of the opening and see if it's still square.

Does your boat have a radar arch?
 
The hinge on the top of the window looks to be bent. Bend it back in place and I bet it will close. I had center windows on 2 boats and both were a tight fix.

Measure the top and bottom of the opening and see if it's still square.

Does your boat have a radar arch?

No radar arch. The picture is deceiving - it isn’t closing by an inch or so - not just that little bent metal on the port side. Gap is 18 3/4 at the top and 19 1/2 at the bottom. Not sure if I have a center window from another boat or if the rest of the windshield is messed up (possibly crushed by dry storage rack?)

good news is I have the frame and can at least take the glass out, cut the aluminum and get flat tempered glass made to fit. Just don’t want to do it.
 
On on of my previous boats (diffrent manufacturer) I had a similar issue. I was able to adjust the windshield support and push the windshield forward on the starboard side and it opened it up. Not sure if yours has that adjustment

Good luck, enjoy reading your progress!


No radar arch. The picture is deceiving - it isn’t closing by an inch or so - not just that little bent metal on the port side. Gap is 18 3/4 at the top and 19 1/2 at the bottom. Not sure if I have a center window from another boat or if the rest of the windshield is messed up (possibly crushed by dry storage rack?)

good news is I have the frame and can at least take the glass out, cut the aluminum and get flat tempered glass made to fit. Just don’t want to do it.
 
On on of my previous boats (diffrent manufacturer) I had a similar issue. I was able to adjust the windshield support and push the windshield forward on the starboard side and it opened it up. Not sure if yours has that adjustment

Good luck, enjoy reading your progress!


No radar arch. The picture is deceiving - it isn’t closing by an inch or so - not just that little bent metal on the port side. Gap is 18 3/4 at the top and 19 1/2 at the bottom. Not sure if I have a center window from another boat or if the rest of the windshield is messed up (possibly crushed by dry storage rack?)

good news is I have the frame and can at least take the glass out, cut the aluminum and get flat tempered glass made to fit. Just don’t want to do it.
 
Finally got it all running and checkout cruise done. Hitting the water for the first time this weekend and heading up the Rappahannock. Just the windshield, new steering wheel and new gauge cluster faceplate to install.

What I'm really needing is the bimini and put WTB ad in the Classified section. While I'm looking for parts and pieces all over the internet does anyone know what years are interchageable for the bimini? I was hoping at least the 1999 wide body would be close or maybe even a Special Edition but RNR-marine pretty clearly says:

http://rnr-marine.com/Purchase.php?...&yearto=1998&partno=98SR270SDA SN1 -x0xxx-fcc

  1. Does NOT fit Sea Ray® 270 Sundancer prior to 1998.
  2. Does NOT fit Sea Ray® 270 Sundancer after 1998.
  3. Does NOT fit any year/make/model other than the 1998-1998 Sea Ray® 270 Sundancer.

So I guess I'm looking only for 1998 270 SDA canvas parts. Thanks!
 
Chris, It’s the frame needing. rnr was the only place i could find that. I’ll call great lakes to see if they have anything or have any leads. Thanks!
 
Chris, It’s the frame needing. rnr was the only place i could find that. I’ll call great lakes to see if they have anything or have any leads. Thanks!
They originally did them, I would assume they know the measurements
 
Chris, It’s the frame needing. rnr was the only place i could find that. I’ll call great lakes to see if they have anything or have any leads. Thanks!

Send me your info or fill out our form at https://www.covemarine.com/request and I will contact you. My company Cove Marine is a distributor for GLBT and we run a CSR discount for members. I also have some experience with these models.

-Kevin
 

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