Sierra outdrive oil?

boatman37

Well-Known Member
Jun 6, 2015
4,211
pittsburgh
Boat Info
2006 Crownline 250CR. 5.7 Merc BIII
Previous: 1986 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer. 260 Merc Alpha 1 Gen 1
Engines
5.7 Merc BIII
So stopped by my local marine shop yesterday and told him I needed outdrive oil for my Bravo 3 (2006). He gave me Sierra (only brand they carried). I had always used either Quicksilver or Mercury brand. Just want to be sure they gave me the right one. It says 'Synthetic Blend' on it. Same as this > https://www.iboats.com/shop/sierra-18-9650-2-hi-performance-synthetic-gear-lube-quart.html

Can't read a part number but it says on the bottom of the label 'Replaces Mercury, Johnson/Evinrude, Yamaha

Tried looking it up but it does look like it is the right one.
 
It appears to be the right stuff. Needs to be blue green in color, not brown.
 
Hope so. Planning on changing it tomorrow morning. Last year I used the Mercury stuff. On our old 250DA Alpha1 I used Quicksilver. I don't like using off-brand stuff but it's what they had. Bought new drain plug gaskets today too. Hoping to get it all winterized tomorrow to take it to storage this week. Son gets married in 3 weeks so busy times ahead.
This season really sucked. Had fuel issues early on then bad weather. Finally got it running right then didn't have time to enjoy it. Put 8 hours on it this summer and about 4 of that was idling at the dock working on it.
 
That’s a tough season. Hopefully the 2020 season will treat you better.
 
Yeah. Just bought it last August. Put about 10 hours on it last season in 3 weeks then we got bad storms and flooding so we pulled it early last year too. Hopefully all the bugs are worked out, weather is good, and nobody is getting married...lol
 
Bravo drives are very particular as to the type of gear fluid being used - specifcally the additives. The wrong stuff WILL cause shifting issues. Merc is very specific about using the Hi-Perf stuff. Now, if the Sierra stuff has all of the same qualities/additives - then it should work just fine. Personally, I haven't found a need to try something different with a Bravo drive as it's not worth the buck or two to experiment. I noticed that the Sierra stuff is a GL5, whereas the Hi-Perf stuff is a GL4. In this case, I don't think that particular spec matters for the Bravo drive (it does for some gearcases) - but that is only one of the specs/qualities - not the whole thing.

Alphas are a different story.

Mercury vs Quicksilver is the same thing - just branded based on where it is sold, fyi.
 
Bravo drives are very particular as to the type of gear fluid being used - specifcally the additives. The wrong stuff WILL cause shifting issues. Merc is very specific about using the Hi-Perf stuff. Now, if the Sierra stuff has all of the same qualities/additives - then it should work just fine. Personally, I haven't found a need to try something different with a Bravo drive as it's not worth the buck or two to experiment. I noticed that the Sierra stuff is a GL5, whereas the Hi-Perf stuff is a GL4. In this case, I don't think that particular spec matters for the Bravo drive (it does for some gearcases) - but that is only one of the specs/qualities - not the whole thing.

Alphas are a different story.

Mercury vs Quicksilver is the same thing - just branded based on where it is sold, fyi.

+1!
 
The sierra yellow oil usually says for volva applications on the containers
 
Changed it out today. The new fluid was the greenish-blue color. It says High Performance on it. I didn't buy it to save abuck. Just thats all they had on the shelf. I would have gladly paid a little more for the better stuff
 
I didn't mean that YOU were being stingy - "I" wasn't going to do an experiment when there's a tried and true approach. But, as I said, that Sierra could be just fine - I don't know one way or the other. But I wouldn't base it solely on color, either. I would either contact Sierra to find out definitively, or if the shop you bought it from uses it in their customer's Bravo drives (and has been doing so for years), then that sounds reassuring.
 
The owner of the shop and one of his mechanics were there. I told him I needed it for the B3. The owner asked the mechanic which one so they both walked over. The mechanic grabbed one and the owner said no the other one and the mechanic said oh thats right. So I just wanted reassurance...lol. Who knows. I may change it out in the spring back to the good stuff for peace of mind. And I drained the outdrive and the monitor today. It only took 2 quarts to fill it back up. I did start it back up afterwards and it was still slightly above the full line but I will definitely keep and eye on it in case there are any air pockets. Followed the manual when doing it.
 
If you drained it completely, you're about a quart low. Best way to refill is pump till the fluid comes out the vent screw, insert vent screw, keep pumping till you partially fill the monitor bottle. Come back 10-15 minutes later and top off. The is best way to eliminate "most" of the air bubbles.
 
If you drained it completely, you're about a quart low. Best way to refill is pump till the fluid comes out the vent screw, insert vent screw, keep pumping till you partially fill the monitor bottle. Come back 10-15 minutes later and top off. The is best way to eliminate "most" of the air bubbles.
My step-son pumped it in while I watched the monitor. The monitor was completely empty and I let it drain for about 30 minutes. He pumped 2 bottles in and was getting ready to open the 3rd but it kept rising until it was just above the line near the top of the monitor. And that was how we did it. Pumped until it came out the vent hole then put that screw in and kept pumping. Same as it says in the book. One thing I wasn't sure about is my manual says to leave the outdrive in the full up position when draining it. Doesn't seem right to me. I would think it should be down?
 
My step-son pumped it in while I watched the monitor. The monitor was completely empty and I let it drain for about 30 minutes. He pumped 2 bottles in and was getting ready to open the 3rd but it kept rising until it was just above the line near the top of the monitor. And that was how we did it. Pumped until it came out the vent hole then put that screw in and kept pumping. Same as it says in the book. One thing I wasn't sure about is my manual says to leave the outdrive in the full up position when draining it. Doesn't seem right to me. I would think it should be down?
Not sure about leaving it in the full up position to drain it, but you either didn’t get it all out, or there is a good size air bubble in there that may eventually work it’s way to the top and drop the level in the monitor.
 
i used the green-blue sierra oil in my previous vp sx drive and now on my b3 drive for many years and never had any issue with it.
best regards
 
not really full up, just up enough to allow it to drain out the bottom plug
you are supposed to open the top vent and fill from the bottom until it comes out the top vent, install that vent and SLOWLY pump until you see it in the res bottle , then just fill the bottle .
If you tried draining it thru the res bottle you really didnt drain it all
 
not really full up, just up enough to allow it to drain out the bottom plug
you are supposed to open the top vent and fill from the bottom until it comes out the top vent, install that vent and SLOWLY pump until you see it in the res bottle , then just fill the bottle .
If you tried draining it thru the res bottle you really didnt drain it all
That's how I did it. Removed both drain/fill plugs and the cap for the monitor and let it drain for about 1 hour. I then siphoned out the little bit at the bottom of the monitor then pumped in from the bottom until it drip out the top then installed the top plug and kept pumping until the monitor was full
 

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