The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread

if this shows up as a double post my apology in advance. Is there a inline fuse behind the dash that controls the electric keypad (controls for lights, depth finder, blower, sump, horn, etc). Mine went out yesterday. Checked fuse block under dash all fuses there were good.
 
if this shows up as a double post my apology in advance. Is there a inline fuse behind the dash that controls the electric keypad (controls for lights, depth finder, blower, sump, horn, etc). Mine went out yesterday. Checked fuse block under dash all fuses there were good.

Problems with the keypads are never good thing. There is a single connection to the keypad in the back check to see if that is still connected. Be careful to to force or break anything the entire keypad is one electronic switch.

-Kevin
 
Can anyone help with attaching Downriggers on the stern sides and also if anyone has attached a trolling motor.

Thanks
 
Hell if I can get the hatch to open up further I could install stairs into the engine bay. Actually the storage I installed in there makes a nice step.
27b092c3.jpg

dfaf6bfc.jpg
Hey, I have that exact same shelf and storage box on my 260!! (We bought Todd's old boat in January. Loving it so far!)
 
Last weekend I had the boat out for the first time after installing a GFS-10 fuel flow sensor and connecting it up to the GPS. It was only on the local lake so not really sure it counts as having the boat out.

Anyways I found some interesting things out about the sweet spot for the boat.

At 3400 RPM and the drive trimmed to just under the 1/4 mark on the gauge I was getting 1.1 liters per Km.
If I increased the RPM to 3600 the fuel consumption went up to 1.3 liters per Km.
If I dropped the RPM to 3200 the fuel consumption again went up to 1.3 liters per Km

So for my boat and engine if I cruise at 3400 RPM I'm getting about a 18% reduction in fuel use compared to 3200 or 3600 RPM.
Last year I was cruising at 3600 the whole time, about 900 KM worth in three weeks. Based on this I'll easily pay for the cost of the GFS-10 on my first trip.
At 3400 RMP I was doing about 44 KM/hr.
This is with the 7.4 and 24 pitch props at an elevation of 1190 meters.
It will be interesting to see what it will be when I am on the coast again this summer for 3 weeks.
Do you have any pictures showing how you located your fuel sensor?? I'm installing one in my 2000 260DA.
 
Here have I put my fuel sensor in my 2001 260 DA. Fuel tank to the left and engine to the right in the picture.



View attachment 81542
Perfect! Thank you. The Garmin manual says to mount vertical to avoid air bubbles from messing up the sensing. Obviously a vertical mount doesn't work well in our set up. Do you ever have any issues with inaccurate readings? I hope not because your set up is very similar to what I plan to do. Thanks.
 
Perfect! Thank you. The Garmin manual says to mount vertical to avoid air bubbles from messing up the sensing. Obviously a vertical mount doesn't work well in our set up. Do you ever have any issues with inaccurate readings? I hope not because your set up is very similar to what I plan to do. Thanks.

I haven tried it yet, but if it will be a problem there is space to turn it a lite bit. I will try this first and see if there are any problem.
 
Here have I put my fuel sensor in my 2001 260 DA. Fuel tank to the left and engine to the right in the picture.



View attachment 81542
I installed this sensor in a previous boat and had it mounted at about a 15 degree angle. The problem I had was the sensor wheel in the device began sticking and giving erratic readings after one season. Garmin replaced the first one. The following season the same thing happened, and I didn't feel like dealing with Garmin so I removed the sensor, sprayed silicon lube through it, and it was working fine when I sold the boat the following year.
 
Hi there, went to look at an older 260DA yesterday (1999) for something to do not expecting to like it, but found it had a nice layout and liked it more than expected. My questions:

- How many hours would the small block mercruiser get in saltwater? Engine has just over 1000 hours

- does anyone have a brochure or list of features? if i go see it again, would want to give it a full once over to see what all might be broken or missing. For example I did not see a windlass and the engine cover was maually lifted, but I don't know if that's normal or if things are missing/broken.

Thanks!
 
Hi there, went to look at an older 260DA yesterday (1999) for something to do not expecting to like it, but found it had a nice layout and liked it more than expected. My questions:

- How many hours would the small block mercruiser get in saltwater? Engine has just over 1000 hours

- does anyone have a brochure or list of features? if i go see it again, would want to give it a full once over to see what all might be broken or missing. For example I did not see a windlass and the engine cover was maually lifted, but I don't know if that's normal or if things are missing/broken.

Thanks!

https://owners-resources.searayweb.com/model-archive-files/1C1_27_74DERNWXU992.pdf
 
Hey all, we sold our 240 Sundancer last year and just moved from South Carolina to Tampa FL. We put a deposit on an '02 260 Dancer (classic 2ft itis LOL) and will do a sea trial Wednesday. I guess I will start perusing the 852 prior posts on this thread tonight to learn more about her, but in the meantime is there anything in particular I need to be concerned with and pay close attention to during the sea trial? FYI 6.2 MPI (700 hours), has A/C (no genny), vacuflush with macerator & offshore discharge, windlass, remote spotlight. The boat is a little rougher condition salt water veteran than the fresh water boats I have owned before, but seems to have "good bones".

My first question: the hatch into the engine bay only opens about 30 degrees (even with the rear seat folded up) making access a real pain. Am I missing something? How do you get the hatch to open up more?

Second question: does this model have any history of hull moisture problems?
 
Last edited:
30 degrees - I can't say exactly what mine opened up to as I never measured it. I would say it didn't open as far as I would like, but it never really seemed to bother me. The engine bay is so huge, once you're in there it doesn't really matter. Unless someone replaced the gas springs with shorter ones - check the part's manual (download it) as it should tell the compressed/extended length and compare to what you have.

But, with the transom seat folded up, you can disconnect the springs and open the hatch close to vertical and then tie if off from the hatch pull to the ski tow eye. This would just be for extended times in the bilge, of course.

Overall, it's a solid boat with no common issues. The hull has no wood, other than the transom.
 
Hmmm I'll have to look at the hatch again. With the transom seat folded up, the very rear of the hatch near the hinge still hits the cushion of the folded up seat to block raising it any higher than about 30 degrees, that's why I was questioning it because I figured it should go up to nearly vertical.

I got to post #300 last night, time to keep reading LOL
 
Last edited:
Hmmm I'll have to look at the hatch again. With the transom seat folded up, the very rear of the hatch near the hinge still hits the cushion of the folded up seat to block raising it any higher than about 30 degrees, that's why I was questioning it because I figured it should go up to nearly vertical.

I got to post #300 last night, time to keep reading LOL

It doesn't go completely vertical unless you disconnect the supports on the side. The air spring supports will limit the vertical range. Plenty of room to get in and work. If you plan on removing the hatch make sure to have a alternative support handy as the hatch is heavy.

-Kevin
 
Hmmm I'll have to look at the hatch again. With the transom seat folded up, the very rear of the hatch near the hinge still hits the cushion of the folded up seat to block raising it any higher than about 30 degrees, that's why I was questioning it because I figured it should go up to nearly vertical.

I got to post #300 last night, time to keep reading LOL
With the springs removed, it will open much further - but yes, it will go even further by removing the bench seat (the backrest doesn't need to be removed).

EDIT: Oh, check where the existing springs are mounted. If they're not close to being fully compressed when the hatch is closed, you can adjust the mounting location to get further "swing" on the hatch. Get in the bilge and close the hatch and see what you see. It could end up making the initial pull on the hatch harder - but you can play with things to figure that out - or upgrade the springs if need be. You've got options.
 
Last edited:
It doesn't go completely vertical unless you disconnect the supports on the side. The air spring supports will limit the vertical range. Plenty of room to get in and work. If you plan on removing the hatch make sure to have a alternative support handy as the hatch is heavy.

-Kevin

I have to replace the springs anyway; I think they may be original and neither one has gas left in it. So there is no help at all lifting the hatch, and yes it is heavy! I do like how much room is in the bilge.... this will be the first boat I have owned that doesn't require double-jointed dwarf yoga positions to work on the engine. I'm excited about that part LOL.
 
Well I just finished this entire thread... wow!
Before my sea trial Wednesday of the 2002 I'd like to ask three questions. I have owned and operated boats all my life - but limited to ski boats as a youth; and in the past 15 years, a 230 Sundancer and a 240 Sundancer. This will be our first boat with the options I truly wanted but have never used before, so please educate me on the following items. Thanks! I am aware these will be real newbie questions for these systems, please forgive......

A/C: how do I do a test run of A/C to make sure it works properly, and more importantly how not do something wrong (like turn it on before turning on water cooling for it or whatever and fry the system, do I need to do that, etc). No genny we will hook up to shore power, now how to operate and what to look for?

Vacuflush/offshore discharge: the notes on this thread regarding the head are a little ambiguous. This boat does have a macerator and offshore discharge seacock in the bilge. The key by the head toilet has positions off, on, then a farther clockwise spring loaded position like the "start" on a car. I think (?) from reading that the key has to always be left "on" to keep the vacuflush system on and it should run for maybe 30 seconds after each flush, then turn off. If it keeps running that means there is a leak somewhere, first suspect would be duckbills and/or seal in the toilet. "Start" position would engage the macerator and with the seacock open will discharge overboard. If the key by the toilet is turned off then nothing works at all. Is this all correct regarding the Vacuflush system?

Windlass: no foot switch but does have helm switch. Prior posts are confusing regarding two different switches and/or toggle switches, I only noted one switch on dashboard. Is there another one somewhere and I have to operate both to run the windlass?

Thanks for all help. If we do purchase the boat this week I may kick-start this thread and get it more active again :)
 
A/C... it's pretty straight forward - you need water for cooling and electricity for power. Seacock open, power to the MDP (panel in cabin), breakers on, select temp. BUT... it's probably best to allow the owner/operator to show you and let them do it - just in case there's an issue, your hands weren't on it.

Correct Vacuflush. You also have to be in an allowable "discharge" zone to use the macerator which is at least 3 miles offshore, sometimes further. Otherwise, the seacock handle much always be closed and locked to prevent accidental opening.

Windlass - there should be a double switch at the helm. A guarded toggle switch (safety) to supply power to the system, and then a rocker switch for up/down. The guarded switch has to be pulled outward to move. If you don't have that, then it sounds like someone installed the windlass themselves. Again, check with the owner.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,945
Messages
1,422,747
Members
60,928
Latest member
rkaleda
Back
Top