Official 320 Dancer Thread

anyone purchase a teak floor insert for their bathroom/head? I have seen them on Great Lakes Skipper for other models but haven't found one for the 320. UPDATE: FOUND ONE! www.globalshipwrights.com. He has a template for 2003-2007 320DA and can make one. Also, gives us a 10% discount for being a CSR member.


Wow....good to hear. I have not been able to get in contact with them. I'll try and send an email they have some very nice tables too!
 
I attempted to search the winterizing write up back didn’t have any luck finding it, anyone have a good winterizing write up ?!?
 
Changed out my fuel senders this week. Port was a ssi and starboard was a moeller swing arm both installed by PO. Got tired of the inaccuracy. Went with KUS/Wema. I had a access hole under port side lounger. Not sure if it was added when stock sender was replaced or it came that way fro SR. Little tight on port but doable. Starboard was easy. The 3rd purple wire on the ssi is not used on the 2 wire KUS. They work great with the smartcraft and seem to be very accurate. Thumbs up from me.
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Great pictures, thanks. My fuel gauges are all over the place... I need to change these out, too. I either have 7 gallons or 47 gallons per side, depending on how the current senders are feeling, I guess.
 
Has anyone else had an issue with their aux input on their Clarion CMD4? I plug the 3.5mm into the (provided) jack and the other end into my phone but it won't work. No sound at all. I have gone in and programmed it to "high" sensitivity but still nothing. Until I replace the entire system, I would love to get this to work.
 
Has anyone else had an issue with their aux input on their Clarion CMD4? I plug the 3.5mm into the (provided) jack and the other end into my phone but it won't work. No sound at all. I have gone in and programmed it to "high" sensitivity but still nothing. Until I replace the entire system, I would love to get this to work.


Make sure the volume is raised on your phone...sounds simple but it had me stumped for a minute...Try another input like someone elses phone or an Ipod?
 
Just purchased a 320 2003 has an Isotherm 1104902 in the cockpit as the fridge.
trying to replace as part of the renovation and isotherm (indel webasto) is useless on telling me what the replacement model is that will fit without modification - I don't want to modify original unless there is NO OTHER option. Please advise if you have done this
 
Just purchased a 320 2003 has an Isotherm 1104902 in the cockpit as the fridge.
trying to replace as part of the renovation and isotherm (indel webasto) is useless on telling me what the replacement model is that will fit without modification - I don't want to modify original unless there is NO OTHER option. Please advise if you have done this

Hi and welcome to the forum...I assume you bought Longs boat? Try customer service at Sea Ray, they have been very good to me. 1-865-522-4181.
 
Just purchased a 320 2003 has an Isotherm 1104902 in the cockpit as the fridge.
trying to replace as part of the renovation and isotherm (indel webasto) is useless on telling me what the replacement model is that will fit without modification - I don't want to modify original unless there is NO OTHER option. Please advise if you have done this

I didn’t do the cockpit fridge but I did to the galley fridge. I did a lot of Googling to see what would fit. You appear to have a Cruise 49:
http://www.isotherm-parts.com/identify-your-system

This is a 1.75 cubic ft unit. Here’s a list of other fridges, many of which are the same volume. Compare the height, width and depth to find a similar sized one. Then make sure whatever you pick is similar (AC and DC? DC only? Etc.) in how it connects. Then compare the electrical load. Don’t get one that uses a different voltage or draws more current.
https://www.suremarineservice.com/Galley/Refrigeration-Size-Comparison/

All that being said, I’d avoid Norcold (Nevercold). I had great luck with Vitrofrigo.

Someone else might have an easier answer (buy Model ABC) but as I said, I didn’t ever replace that one, so I can’t give you that easy of an answer. But if you search this thread for “fridge” or “refrigerator” you might find some specifics.

good luck!
 
Hi and welcome to the forum...I assume you bought Longs boat? Try customer service at Sea Ray, they have been very good to me. 1-865-522-4181.
Correct and we are having it completely done over this winter and one of my unknowns is this fridge issue - I called Indel Webasto - not a lot of help there.
 
I also bought a 320 a couple of weeks ago. I have a few small projects I want to do. The only time I listen to music is on the boat, so a great system is a must so I'll be adding a more powerful amp and a sub woofer. I also need to do something with the swim platform to cover it as it has a couple of scars....
Good Luck with your projects...
 
Long time lurker and I’ve read all posts to gain as much Sea Ray knowledge as possible. I’m looking to buy a Sea Ray for a little local cruising for my wife and I. I’ve owned several boats and jet ski’s with largest being 35’ Carver express cruiser with twin 454 inboards. All freshwater so moving to East coast with saltwater is new to me with the higher maintenance costs.

Looking to purchase a Sundancer around 35’ and found a 2004 320 for less than $30k. Previous owner backed it into the dock and damaged the swim platform and was afraid to use it so it sat mostly for the past 5 years.

Hurricane moving this way a couple months ago so he unloads it to current owner that has several boats and sees an opportunity to make a little money. A previous buyer to me has financing fall through so I come into play and I’m a cash buyer.

Short sea trial and boat reaches 4600rpm WOT and everything looked good. Upon coming off plane, low oil pressure alarm on port engine, but gauges looked good with around 50psi each.

Went down Tuesday to sign contract and the high water alarm went off when I stepped on the dock. Water in the bilge up about 3” on the mufflers and took about 10 minutes to pump out. New bilge pumps recently installed but sounds like the float is bad. A through hull fitting must be bad and the diver caused the leak when he cleaned the bottom. He removed the clam shell and sealed it so the water intrusion has stopped for now.

Survey scheduled this morning and after seeing the high water mark in the bilge, the surveyor looks at the bottom of the engines noticed a lot of corrosion and the bonding wire appear to be corroded. He determines it’s not the first time a large amount of water sat in the bilge as he thinks the bottom of the engines are rustier than normal for age. I’m new to saltwater condition boating and the surveyor suggests we stop the survey and walk away. The seller is overextended and it’s late in the season so he offers to reduce the price to $23K but I decide to walk away and ask for refund of my deposit per the contract.

The seller calls me later and offers the boat for $20k. Probably should have finished the survey, but at the reduction its now very tempting.

The boat needs a lot of work which I was willing to do if hull and mechanicals were good. There wasn’t a water stain prior to the recent high water incident.

Here is a description of the boat in question.

-350 Horizons with 551 hours
-Kohler 5kw gen replaced 3 years ago with 25 hours but doesn’t run. Under warranty and seller thinks it’s a fuel issue as it starts but dies. Paperwork and condition valve dates it as a recent replacement.
-Needs new canvas. Fastback and side curtains are ok but Bimini has holes in it with my mold.
-Spotlight doesn’t work.
-Winless has power to it but doesn’t work.
-Cockpit vinyl was cleaned but signs of stains and will eventually need to be replaced to meet my level.
-Fiberglass is dull but based on my experience I can bring it back.
-White hull which I prefer.
-Bottom paint about 3 years old and not sure any paint remains.
-Cabin is clean outside of some carpet stains.
-Original Raymarine electronics with Fusion stereo.
-swim platform repair around $2,000.

Overall, the boat needs some love with a lot of small issues and I easily see $10k to get started with bottom paint and canvas primary concerns. Another $5-10k to get it where I want it. I ran into the diver before I officially was looking at the boat and he said the bottom paint is pretty gone but hasn’t seen any blisters or issues.

Seller just calls me and lowers the price to $20,000 As is. Seller is a boat mechanic and hasn’t had time to do anything to the boat and his wife isn’t happy so he needs to unload it. He seems to be a straight forward and great guy that I would utilize on his or another boat in the future.

Sorry for the long post but hoping to hear the experts weigh in. Should I take a risk at $20K or walk away and look at other 320’s which start around $65K in this area, but don’t have the Horizon fresh water cooled engines.

Thanks
Rich
 
In my younger days I would have taken on that kind of project. In my later years not so much. Price seems right but you will spend 30k plus for a good reboot.
 
Just purchased a 320 2003 has an Isotherm 1104902 in the cockpit as the fridge.
trying to replace as part of the renovation and isotherm (indel webasto) is useless on telling me what the replacement model is that will fit without modification - I don't want to modify original unless there is NO OTHER option. Please advise if you have done this
I did the cockpit fridge. So far so good, and it was a good fit, no fiberglass work, etc. just slid it in, plug the 120 into the outlet, hardwire the 12v +/- cables, and it works like a charm.

Pretty sure it is this unit from West Marine. https://www.wholesalemarine.com/norcold-2-0-cf-built-in-ac-dc-refridgerator-black-front.html

Issues: since I shut everything down, I was constantly turning the knob inside the fridge from level 4 to off. The knob is broken now, it was hard to tell when it was off. Recommendation: leave the fridge on, level 4 or 5, and simply cut power to it by turning off batteries at main switches. This is what I do today. The door is sticky to open, and now the latch broke. It will fly open if you put a coke in the door and don’t tape or put something heavy in front of the door when you try to get on plane. I purchased the w=extended warranty, so I’m going to call and get these repaired while under warranty, currently these are the only issues after almost 3 years. You will get some minor rust on the front if you don’t treat the stainless steel with wd-40 or some other type of lubricant.

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In my younger days I would have taken on that kind of project. In my later years not so much. Price seems right but you will spend 30k plus for a good reboot.

I could see $10-15,000 easily, but even if we put $50K into it, we would be at $50K all in.

Seller quickly received another full price offer at $28,000 and refunded my deposit so the search is back on. This one just wasn’t meant to be.
 
That looks custom fit to the 320....on the website I only could find square ones. Did you trim it or do they have a templet for the 320?

Custom. They have a templet, They are pricey.
 
I did the cockpit fridge. So far so good, and it was a good fit, no fiberglass work, etc. just slid it in, plug the 120 into the outlet, hardwire the 12v +/- cables, and it works like a charm.

Pretty sure it is this unit from West Marine. https://www.wholesalemarine.com/norcold-2-0-cf-built-in-ac-dc-refridgerator-black-front.html

Issues: since I shut everything down, I was constantly turning the knob inside the fridge from level 4 to off. The knob is broken now, it was hard to tell when it was off. Recommendation: leave the fridge on, level 4 or 5, and simply cut power to it by turning off batteries at main switches. This is what I do today. The door is sticky to open, and now the latch broke. It will fly open if you put a coke in the door and don’t tape or put something heavy in front of the door when you try to get on plane. I purchased the w=extended warranty, so I’m going to call and get these repaired while under warranty, currently these are the only issues after almost 3 years. You will get some minor rust on the front if you don’t treat the stainless steel with wd-40 or some other type of lubricant.

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Thanks so much fantastic info and appreciate the pics and links - great help!
 

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