240 Sundeck Thread - Questions and Answers

Update:

Trim works fine as long as it's not taken all the way to 24 on trim. At 23, works fine but 24 it sticks and won't go down. Any clue why?
 
Hi everyone, happy Monday (if there is such a thing).

I'm looking to go LED on my bulbs. The head/cargo areas are marked as being 1141 bulbs, so those are easy enough. The nav and watersports tower lights are unmarked though. The parts manual contains:

1423946 BULB, REPL FOR #1414895 12V

for the nav lights. Google gives me nothing, nor did I find anything here for that part number. As for the watersports tower, the parts manual contains:

1664234 TOWER, 240SD-02 ALUM WTR SPRTS

but has no mention of a replacement bulb for the tower. Does anyone have any idea what kind of bulbs these are?
 
Nav lights should be USCG approved for disability, you should not just replace the bulb with LED from auto zone.

I got mine from Overton's, it is a Atwood deck light. Amazon carries them also. Little button on top glows softly so you can see them from the helm. Same mount as the factory originals. Just be aware LED's are polarity sensitive, switch the pos/ned and they don't work. Also, they have both 2 mile and 1 mile versions. I paid more for the 2-mile, just a little bit brighter.

https://www.overtons.com/attwood-led-deck-mount-port-light-with-2-nm-visibility-357806.html#q=navigation+light&prefn1=brand&prefv1=Perko|Attwood+Marine&start=18
 
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Thanks randmhall, those look really nice. I figured I could just match up the lumens rating manually and be ok with regards to the visibility requirements. Perhaps I will play it safe and go with those instead.
 
Please read what Rand said. Are these lights USCG approved? LED's give off light in a different way than incadescent. The reflectors inside the housings may not work well with the LED's. The light may look bright up close - but it may lose intensity at great distances. This is why it's best to replace to the entire housing.

For interior lights it doesn't matter, of course.

One thought... generally Nav lights last a long, long, long time. Replacing them for "power saving" doesn't make a whole lot of sense (for the red/green bow light/s) since those are only on when the engine is running and charging the battery.
 
Just traded 1998 FourWinns 220 5.7/280hp on a 2016 240 Sundeck with 4.5/250hp/BravoIII. 150 hours, looks like new. bottom painted and we will be keeping it in water. Anything in particular to look out for on these boats? Seems solid, rides better for some reason than the Fourwinns which I am curious as to why and is much quieter (wife loves that).
 
Looked at a 2004 240 sd today.....in great shape except for all the spider cracks. everywhere on the top side. Must be 30 or so. Makes the boat look bad. Always had SR boats but rethinking. Are they all like this?
 
Ive got a few but I don’t think as many as 30.

The common spot is where the rear of the windshield connects to the boat. Near the sink on the starboard side and the same spot on the port side.
 
Looked at a 2004 240 sd today.....in great shape except for all the spider cracks. everywhere on the top side. Must be 30 or so. Makes the boat look bad. Always had SR boats but rethinking. Are they all like this?
The SR is most likely a heavier boat....so it rides better. A lighter boat will bounce around more and be louder.
 
Looked at 2 more 240SD's....2005 and 2007. No cracks in glass but the soft goods were trashed. Both boats were left uncovered. So nice to deal with a broker who says the boats are in excellent condition, asked about the interior and reported as in excellent shape. Oh, our details will get the mold off the seats.
The 240's have a great layout. I was going to look at a 25' SR but the inside seating was less.
 
Hey all, not sure if this is the right way to post or not, but here goes:

My 240 is a 2002

After roughly 30 minutes of going 3000+ rpm, I lose power in the engine and it drops to an idle. As long as I dont try to go fast, I can go, but throttle up too much and it dies again.

Replaced fuel filter, no change.

Seems like it may be a heat issue? Gauges show that nothing is wrong. I'll be pulling the boat soon and winterizing (**side note, is there a thread about winterizing?) and I'd love to solve it before Spring.

Thanks for any advice.
 
Hey all, not sure if this is the right way to post or not, but here goes:

My 240 is a 2002

After roughly 30 minutes of going 3000+ rpm, I lose power in the engine and it drops to an idle. As long as I dont try to go fast, I can go, but throttle up too much and it dies again.

Replaced fuel filter, no change.

Seems like it may be a heat issue? Gauges show that nothing is wrong. I'll be pulling the boat soon and winterizing (**side note, is there a thread about winterizing?) and I'd love to solve it before Spring.

Thanks for any advice.

The possibilities here are many. It could be a clogged fuel vent (try running with cap off)... clogged fuel pickup... deteriorating fuel lines... weak pump... partially clogged fuel pressure regulator... injectors... you get the idea.

Probably the two best/quickest tools to use to start to narrow things down would be a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and running with a portable tank.

Yes, TONS of threads about winterizing - just search for that and you'll get lot's and lot's of threads. This a big enough thread where there is probably info about it here - it's usually recommended to read through your "official" thread from the start. Lot's of good info in it.
 
Hi,

I would like to know if the boat top half (cap) can be removed on a 2007 Sundeck 240 after removing the rail all the way around?

Or is it glued together permanent to hull?

Thank you,

Dennis
 
My Sundeck shift throttle quit and now can not get into forward or reverse. It stays in neutral. Luckily it happened upon my return to my marina dock.
I was told we Fly By Wire. No cables. Possibly the actuator or a solenoid. Anybody experience something like this??
Frustrated.
Thanks in advance.
 
My Sundeck shift throttle quit and now can not get into forward or reverse. It stays in neutral. Luckily it happened upon my return to my marina dock.
I was told we Fly By Wire. No cables. Possibly the actuator or a solenoid. Anybody experience something like this??
Frustrated.
Thanks in advance.

If you have DTS, there is an actuator near the starboard exhaust riser that moves a shift cable. The cable end could be broken or the actuator could be acting up.

open the engine cover and watch the actuator to see if it moves as you shift from forward to reverse. (With the engine running)
 
If you have DTS, there is an actuator near the starboard exhaust riser that moves a shift cable. The cable end could be broken or the actuator could be acting up.

open the engine cover and watch the actuator to see if it moves as you shift from forward to reverse. (With the engine running)

Thanks for your report of the possible problem.
I happened to see your post in 2018 with the supporting pictures which was very helpful.
Curious question. I had my risers and manifolds replaced last week. Would it be possible that a switch wire was loosened or the actuator was damaged?? Any idea of the cost of these 2 parts.
Thanks in advance.
 
The switch is very cheap ($30-$40) the actuator is expensive, not sure of the price.

Check around the riser to make sure none of the wire harnesses were pinched or touching the exhaust.
 
Thanks so much. Looking forward to the investigation and observance after the New Years break.
Will update the resolution.
In the meantime, all the best for a Happy 2020.
 
Just bought a 2015 SR 240 Sundeck OB and need to configure my boat lift.

I have seen different specs for the 2015 SR 240 Sundeck OB
Beam: 8 ft 8 in and Beam: 8 ft 6 in

Can someone please let me know what the actual Beam measurement is?

Thanks


Michael
 

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