310 Sundancer Thread (2007 & newer)

I did the same thing but even manual doesn’t explain key needs to be in ON position for vacuum to work
 
The SeaRay manual didn’t! Or I missed it.

Gotta say, SeaRay manuals leave a LOT to be desired. If my airplane (Boeing) manuals were like theirs then there would be big problems!!
 
There should be waste tank fill indicator next to the key. It's not very accurate but you should monitor it. Better is to look at the tank itself. You don't want to overflow it.
 
AB43B6CE-88DD-46AB-91BA-1729A2B69648.jpeg 60AC6C40-F28F-4776-AD27-392FB7B533CD.jpeg Taking down my arch on my 2008 310 for shipping from TN to Fort Lauderdale.

Here are some relevant pictures:
 

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I will document it, and post it when I do it.
Hopefully it turns out, lol.
 

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Lowered my radar arch for transport. Not too bad a job. Tennessee to Fort Lauderdale.

Anybody need advice pm me.
 
Lowered my radar arch for transport. Not too bad a job. Tennessee to Fort Lauderdale.

Anybody need advice pm me.
Can you just give that advice out here? I'm fixing to do that to mine.
 
Sure!

both side speaker covers come off. They are attached with industrial Velcro tabs (three each) do work at it but they will come off.

Remove speakers, and remove speaker mounts. You will see it’s pretty simple.

All my wiring to the arch ran up the starboard side. Clips and co-axial attachments were easy to disconnect. I cut my VHF antennae wire as I was replacing the antennae anyway. Three smaller wires to the satellite and GPS wires were long enough to not have to cut or remove those. The large radar cable same thing: it was long enough to not have to cut. That’s an issue, especially the radar cable (so says the ray marine install manual and online advice.

next are the attachment bolts. There are two mounting bolts each side with two bolts welded to each bracket. Four 3/4” nuts come off those bolts on each side and the arch is free to lay down. Those attachment brackets were supposed to be screwed in place firing manufacture (each bracket had a screw attachment hole drilled into the center.) None were, the brackets fell into the sidewalks.

The shipper and I wrapped the arch with moving blankets and secured those with duct tape. I used a yeti cooler (super strong) and put that on my cabin door and secured the arch from moving.

Two of the arch brackets were retrievable for reinstall, two weren’t. The yard that did some work for me (bottom paint, zincs, stripes, macerator, etc) fabricated tow brackets and reattached the arch.
 
Anybody know how the main salon TV mounting bracket is disconnected? I have looked, pulled, raised, slid and nothing seems to work!
 
Happy social distanc … er, I mean Spring everyone. Over the winter I replaced an old, worrisome Inteli-Power PD2130 with a shiny new, worry-free Promariner Pronautic 1240P Battery Charger and wanted to share some lessons learned in hopes of saving anyone interested in taking on this project some potential heartburn. While there has been plenty written on this topic there was still a substantial amount of information that had to be discovered firsthand. To be honest it took longer to do the research than it did to make the swap, but that doesn’t mean it was easy. It took the Admiral and I about 6 hours to complete.

Disclaimer: I am NOT an ABYC Certified Marine Electrician or any type of electrician for that matter and this is by no means a step-by-step accounting of the work involved, but a listing of things I as a DIYer encountered and thought might prove helpful for the next guy. It is assumed if you are going to take this project on you don’t need me to tell you to disconnect the shore power, batteries, use marine grade wire, shrink tube, etc. As usual the Sea Ray Parts and Owner’s Manuals provided very little guidance.

The boat: 2008 SR 310 DA - 6.2L MPI’s, Bravo 3’s, factory bow thruster, 5ECD genny.

Lessons Learned …. Somewhat in order of importance:

1) The 40amp charger was not my first choice. However, due to the Carling Series-A breaker chassis size we are limited to a 50amp capacity DC breaker in the Main DC Panel which assuming you follow Promariner’s recommended breaker sizing and without doing extensive DC bus bar modifications the charger is by default limited to 40amps. Now, that being said, if you were so inclined you could by-pass the factory DC breakers and utilize ANL style fuses you could indeed move up to a larger capacity charger. I went with the largest charger recommended based on the limitations of the available direct replacement breaker capacities.

2) In total the larger capacity charger required upgrading the AC breaker (10amp to 15amp), the DC breaker(s) (30amp to 50amp), both AC and DC wiring associated with the charger and the circuit and case ground wiring.

3) Existing configuration: On the Main DC breaker panel / battery switch the boat had 1ea. 30amp factory breaker installed with Battery Chargers No. 2 and No. 3 blanked off. I changed this configuration and utilized Battery Charger No. 1 and No. 2 breakers by landing one of the 2 positive legs from the charger on to the Line side of each new 50amp breaker then, like the factory wiring, jumping over to the lugs on the bus bar from the Load side.

4) The Carling breaker model numbers are derived from a Di Vinci Code level ordering scheme, once the existing breakers were in hand I found the breaker codes were outdated and couldn’t be used to order new breakers. Eventually and with input from Carling's Tech Service I was able to get through the riddle of the ordering scheme only to find the Carling suppliers didn’t stock the incredibly specific 14-digit model number and just stocked a basic/generic breaker. See Materials List below for model numbers as received.

5) There are 2 choices as to where to land the DC side of the power: A) straight to the batteries through ANL fuses or B) back to the Main DC Panel which will allow you to use shore power to power things like the hatch, radio, etc. directly through the charger even if the batteries are out of the boat. For this reason I chose option B.

6) You have 3 ways to safeguard the wiring and electrical systems: A) Upgrading the breakers B) using the proper ANL fuses or C) you could conceivably do both. I chose A and replaced the factory breakers.

7) It would help to have small hands and a part-time, at a minimum, helper is a must.

8) The 40amp and larger Pronautic chargers use .25 in. lugs for connecting the DC positive and negative cables and a No. 6 hold down type screw on the AC side. All the breakers were ordered with the screws to match the factory bus bar connections. I think they are No. 8. The correct connection sizes are embedded in the model numbers listed below.

Materials:

1) 2ea. 50amp Carling guarded rocker style circuit breakers, yellow lettering, ignition protected, text & symbols. They came as model number AO1-X0-0X-XXX-XX3-I. For reference the existing 30amp breaker model number was: AO1-X0-06-057-X63-I

2) 1ea. 15amp Carling circuit breaker, white lettering, ignition protected, text & symbols. Model Number: AD1-B0-34-6xx-x11-I. For reference the existing 10amp breaker model number was: AD1-X0-10-582-X11-I

3) I used roughly 40 feet of 6ga awg (Red), 2 feet of 6ga awg (Black), 2 feet of 8ga awg (green), 25 feet of 3 conductor #14 for the AC power, 20 feet of 1.5 in. wire loom (DC) & 25 feet of 1” wire loom (AC), zip ties with screw holes, heat shrink tubing, connectors, etc.

Specialty Tools:

1) Large diameter cable cutters
2) Adjustable type cable crimper
3) Wire Tracer - not a single wire I touched was numbered on both ends.
4) Amp/volt meter
5) Ridged fiberglass wire fish rods came in handy.

I am not sure if I am allowed to say specifically where I bought the parts, but everything was ordered on-line.

Best of luck!
Keith
 
Happy social distanc … er, I mean Spring everyone. Over the winter I replaced an old, worrisome Inteli-Power PD2130 with a shiny new, worry-free Promariner Pronautic 1240P Battery Charger and wanted to share some lessons learned in hopes of saving anyone interested in taking on this project some potential heartburn. While there has been plenty written on this topic there was still a substantial amount of information that had to be discovered firsthand. To be honest it took longer to do the research than it did to make the swap, but that doesn’t mean it was easy. It took the Admiral and I about 6 hours to complete.

Disclaimer: I am NOT an ABYC Certified Marine Electrician or any type of electrician for that matter and this is by no means a step-by-step accounting of the work involved, but a listing of things I as a DIYer encountered and thought might prove helpful for the next guy. It is assumed if you are going to take this project on you don’t need me to tell you to disconnect the shore power, batteries, use marine grade wire, shrink tube, etc. As usual the Sea Ray Parts and Owner’s Manuals provided very little guidance.

The boat: 2008 SR 310 DA - 6.2L MPI’s, Bravo 3’s, factory bow thruster, 5ECD genny.

Lessons Learned …. Somewhat in order of importance:

1) The 40amp charger was not my first choice. However, due to the Carling Series-A breaker chassis size we are limited to a 50amp capacity DC breaker in the Main DC Panel which assuming you follow Promariner’s recommended breaker sizing and without doing extensive DC bus bar modifications the charger is by default limited to 40amps. Now, that being said, if you were so inclined you could by-pass the factory DC breakers and utilize ANL style fuses you could indeed move up to a larger capacity charger. I went with the largest charger recommended based on the limitations of the available direct replacement breaker capacities.

2) In total the larger capacity charger required upgrading the AC breaker (10amp to 15amp), the DC breaker(s) (30amp to 50amp), both AC and DC wiring associated with the charger and the circuit and case ground wiring.

3) Existing configuration: On the Main DC breaker panel / battery switch the boat had 1ea. 30amp factory breaker installed with Battery Chargers No. 2 and No. 3 blanked off. I changed this configuration and utilized Battery Charger No. 1 and No. 2 breakers by landing one of the 2 positive legs from the charger on to the Line side of each new 50amp breaker then, like the factory wiring, jumping over to the lugs on the bus bar from the Load side.

4) The Carling breaker model numbers are derived from a Di Vinci Code level ordering scheme, once the existing breakers were in hand I found the breaker codes were outdated and couldn’t be used to order new breakers. Eventually and with input from Carling's Tech Service I was able to get through the riddle of the ordering scheme only to find the Carling suppliers didn’t stock the incredibly specific 14-digit model number and just stocked a basic/generic breaker. See Materials List below for model numbers as received.

5) There are 2 choices as to where to land the DC side of the power: A) straight to the batteries through ANL fuses or B) back to the Main DC Panel which will allow you to use shore power to power things like the hatch, radio, etc. directly through the charger even if the batteries are out of the boat. For this reason I chose option B.

6) You have 3 ways to safeguard the wiring and electrical systems: A) Upgrading the breakers B) using the proper ANL fuses or C) you could conceivably do both. I chose A and replaced the factory breakers.

7) It would help to have small hands and a part-time, at a minimum, helper is a must.

8) The 40amp and larger Pronautic chargers use .25 in. lugs for connecting the DC positive and negative cables and a No. 6 hold down type screw on the AC side. All the breakers were ordered with the screws to match the factory bus bar connections. I think they are No. 8. The correct connection sizes are embedded in the model numbers listed below.

Materials:

1) 2ea. 50amp Carling guarded rocker style circuit breakers, yellow lettering, ignition protected, text & symbols. They came as model number AO1-X0-0X-XXX-XX3-I. For reference the existing 30amp breaker model number was: AO1-X0-06-057-X63-I

2) 1ea. 15amp Carling circuit breaker, white lettering, ignition protected, text & symbols. Model Number: AD1-B0-34-6xx-x11-I. For reference the existing 10amp breaker model number was: AD1-X0-10-582-X11-I

3) I used roughly 40 feet of 6ga awg (Red), 2 feet of 6ga awg (Black), 2 feet of 8ga awg (green), 25 feet of 3 conductor #14 for the AC power, 20 feet of 1.5 in. wire loom (DC) & 25 feet of 1” wire loom (AC), zip ties with screw holes, heat shrink tubing, connectors, etc.

Specialty Tools:

1) Large diameter cable cutters
2) Adjustable type cable crimper
3) Wire Tracer - not a single wire I touched was numbered on both ends.
4) Amp/volt meter
5) Ridged fiberglass wire fish rods came in handy.

I am not sure if I am allowed to say specifically where I bought the parts, but everything was ordered on-line.

Best of luck!
Keith
Nice write up! Thanks!
 
hey fellas im a 2005 340 owner but im in here writing for a neighbor. my buddy has a 08 310 with kohler generator. 5ecd. he starts the genny and it runs for about 20 seconds, its throwing water out the side. then it shuts down and throws a code "UU". i figured its some kind of sensor. any ideas?
 
I would start by checking the impeller. It could be either broken, stuck or too much friction. Very easy to replace.
 

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