500/520 DB official thread

I considered stacking them, but was advised that it would be beneficial to put the 2nd bank on the starboard side, to balance out the weight. Also, accessing the battery charger would be impossible if they were all stacked. And the space aft of the blackwater tank is kind of dead space.

The generator battery was a no brainer - $250 installed, wired to the 3rd leg of the battery charger, with a group 27 AGM.

Where did you mount the Group 27 Generator Battery?
 
Jeremy we added everything to run the entire boat except the AC units.it is a good way to manage our power
Greg was looking into a 110vac AC unit for his stateroom that could be handled by the inverter
Also we never run the ac during the day were outside ,swimming etc.
So the generator will only run at night.
Techmitch, I agree we will need the AC down south later this year but that’s still only 1/2 the year then 1/2 up north
It’s not a perfect solution but it’s damn good for us.

Do you have details what equipment you used? Adding an inverter to run the whole boat (or even just some of it) is a quite a task, so interested how you wired the system.

I take delivery Friday so lots to learn.
 
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Where did you mount the Group 27 Generator Battery?

1.Generator battery is behind the house batts
2. Water softener gets recharged every 5-6 tank fill ups depending on the condition of your city water with a 1 lb container of table salt costing .99c
3.the inverter is a 3000watt inverter with 4-6 v golf cart batts and yes the ref/freezer is 110v ac only
this Set up has run the boat (buddies 480DB) same boat over 24hours mine has gone 17-18 hrs I have t tested past that point yet.
 
1.Generator battery is behind the house batts
2. Water softener gets recharged every 5-6 tank fill ups depending on the condition of your city water with a 1 lb container of table salt costing .99c
3.the inverter is a 3000watt inverter with 4-6 v golf cart batts and yes the ref/freezer is 110v ac only
this Set up has run the boat (buddies 480DB) same boat over 24hours mine has gone 17-18 hrs I have t tested past that point yet.

Those a great upgrades. Do you have more info on the inverter setup? For example how you tied in to the branch circuits or did you tie into the main feed of the 120volt panel?
 
Those a great upgrades. Do you have more info on the inverter setup? For example how you tied in to the branch circuits or did you tie into the main feed of the 120volt panel?

It’s direct to the 110 side of the panel the inverter is mounted in the “basement” as we call it on the shelf next to the washer /dryer. Batteries are in battery boxes in front of each engine and the DC wires run through that bulkhead and into the basement to the inverter .
Probably our favorite upgrade as we spend most of our time at anchor.
 
Anyone have any insight on a quick fix for the marquipt davit. Mine won’t go down. Worked going up, all the other functions work, pole won’t go down

Thanks
 
Anyone have any insight on a quick fix for the marquipt davit. Mine won’t go down. Worked going up, all the other functions work, pole won’t go down

Thanks

Make sure the contact that’s attached at the pole is clean and aligned otherwise it won’t go down it’s a safety switch

You can see it when the pole is up it probably looks like a rust spot on one side and a rusty wire on the pole side .
 
Where is everyone mounting their grills? Not including the fortunate folks with 2008+ boats that have the Stock grill installed.
 
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2 questions for the group.
IMG_2167.JPG

First, I have the cockpit setup with the grill and sink. The grill has a Corian cover, and there is a pressure switch that cuts power to the grill when the cover is in place. There is a GFCI for the grill that kept tripping, and after replacing the BBQ element, the GFCI, and the switch relay, I determined that the switch is bad. It's a small round pressure switch, but there was so much silicon and chaffing that I can't read the part number. I've e-mailed SeaRay, but wondering if anyone has any ideas.

Second, the sliding door the salon recently became hard to close, and I noticed that it rattles. Upon closer inspection, I noticed that the starboard side of the door has a metal trip piece that keeps it aligned to the rail, but the port side doesn't (see photo).

I'd appreciate it if anyone could send me photos of both sides of the top of their doors.
 
43442173-C9F0-4168-8B44-AE1E6773FC87.jpeg
There is not a pic of it in the parts manual but this seems like it is what you are looking for.
Searay Part #1906166
 
Thanks! I looked through the parts manual (downloaded from SeaRay website), and it doesn't list that part.

It was on page 236 of the parts manual that I have.
 
2 questions for the group.
View attachment 74104
First, I have the cockpit setup with the grill and sink. The grill has a Corian cover, and there is a pressure switch that cuts power to the grill when the cover is in place. There is a GFCI for the grill that kept tripping, and after replacing the BBQ element, the GFCI, and the switch relay, I determined that the switch is bad. It's a small round pressure switch, but there was so much silicon and chaffing that I can't read the part number. I've e-mailed SeaRay, but wondering if anyone has any ideas.

Second, the sliding door the salon recently became hard to close, and I noticed that it rattles. Upon closer inspection, I noticed that the starboard side of the door has a metal trip piece that keeps it aligned to the rail, but the port side doesn't (see photo).

I'd appreciate it if anyone could send me photos of both sides of the top of their doors.
As far as the slider, I had it part this winter as mine was hard to slide and I don’t think the brass stop you are referring to is intended to align the door. For what I remember it is attached to the door latch and is used to hold the door from sliding closed when it is in the open position. It engages a block on the bottom track.
The slider rides on rollers and those keep it aligned on the track. Mine where rusty and once the bushings in them where lubed up it slides great.
 
It's that cooler under the turbo - Cummins has a bulletin on the bracket and will provide the repair kit. The surveyor should know all about the issue; if not it's a good "test" to see if you have the right surveyor....
Do you have any info on the bulletin on the bracket? Our mechanic was not aware.
 

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