How do you guys keep the hatch open when you need to do some work on the engine? The hatch won't open completely as it is in conflict with the passenger back-to-back seat, so the only solution I have found when I'm alone is to run a rope from the opening handle forward to the windshield supports and back to the aft. I would have expected that there should have been some kind of support to keep it open as on cars, but there is not.
2003 225 WE, how to keep engine hatch open?
- Thread starter TerjeG
- Start date
If it truly is hitting the hard fiberglass part, that is definitely NOT how it was originally designed. I have opened the hatch on many, many 225 Weekender's and they open without contacting the seat. Pictures may help to figure out what's going on.
Unless... I think understand better what you're saying, now...
Are you saying that it can only open so far and then it doesn't stay put by itself? Some models used gas springs/srtuts to keep the hatch open. If you have struts, then the simple solutuion is that they are shot and no longer have enough "holding" power. If your model never had springs, then you'd need to open the hatch part way and then lift (yes, I know it's awkward) it slightly and slide it aft a few inches (out of the channel). Or then rotate it 90* and set it between the forward seats.
If you don't have springs, you could always add those.
And, yes, it is definitely tighter with the optional back-to-back seats than with the port-side single seat.
Are you saying that it can only open so far and then it doesn't stay put by itself? Some models used gas springs/srtuts to keep the hatch open. If you have struts, then the simple solutuion is that they are shot and no longer have enough "holding" power. If your model never had springs, then you'd need to open the hatch part way and then lift (yes, I know it's awkward) it slightly and slide it aft a few inches (out of the channel). Or then rotate it 90* and set it between the forward seats.
If you don't have springs, you could always add those.
And, yes, it is definitely tighter with the optional back-to-back seats than with the port-side single seat.
"Are you saying that it can only open so far and then it doesn't stay put by itself? "
Yes, you're correct. Even if I slide the seat as long forward as possible the hatch will still not stay put by itself. The hatch is mounted ("rotates") with hinges, so it's not possible to lift and slide the hatch without removing these. I'll take a picture of them too, as I don't know if they are original or not. You don't happen to have pictures of a boat with the springs you mention?
Yes, you're correct. Even if I slide the seat as long forward as possible the hatch will still not stay put by itself. The hatch is mounted ("rotates") with hinges, so it's not possible to lift and slide the hatch without removing these. I'll take a picture of them too, as I don't know if they are original or not. You don't happen to have pictures of a boat with the springs you mention?
For the life of me, I don't recall ANY 225/215 having the hatch secured with hinges. The "well" where the lip of the hatch sits down into is so deep, it isn't needed. However, I can only base this on US models - it's possible that the European model is different.
Unless the deck/hatch design is entirely different from what I know of the US models... maybe just remove the hinges?
I don't have any pics of the gas springs, but you would use two of them - one on each side of the hatch. Generally, the lower mount would be the vertical section of the hatch opening perimeter and the other mount would be, of course, to the inside, vertical wall of the hatch.
Google "gas spring mount" and "gas spring". The most commonly used is a 12"x20" - I would guess that somewhere between 80lbs and 100lbs would be sufficient. It depends on where you mount it, too (leverage). They will end up being in your way a bit - but for routine checks it would be fine. If needed, they pop off in a couple seconds.
Unless the deck/hatch design is entirely different from what I know of the US models... maybe just remove the hinges?
I don't have any pics of the gas springs, but you would use two of them - one on each side of the hatch. Generally, the lower mount would be the vertical section of the hatch opening perimeter and the other mount would be, of course, to the inside, vertical wall of the hatch.
Google "gas spring mount" and "gas spring". The most commonly used is a 12"x20" - I would guess that somewhere between 80lbs and 100lbs would be sufficient. It depends on where you mount it, too (leverage). They will end up being in your way a bit - but for routine checks it would be fine. If needed, they pop off in a couple seconds.
Thanks a lot for all help! I'll have a look next weekend when I'm back in the boat, and maybe the best solution is simply to remove the hinges as you indicate. Yes, the "well" is deep, so maybe the hinges are just required as a part of the CE certification. I remember I had to do a lot of modifications to a Bayliner 3288 M/Y about ten years ago to have it certified over here. One of the modifications was to have the engine hatches secured so they couldn't open if the boat should flip upside down. I would say I would have had serious problems anyway if this should happen........, but rules are rules.
- Mar 11, 2013
- 6,829
- Boat Info
- Sara Belle
2005 Weekender 215
- Engines
- Mercruiser 5.0 mpi, Bravo III
I have a 215 and I am aware of the hinges you are discussing. They aren't necessarily a hinge in the traditional sense either, but two pieces of plastic that keeps the hatch in its track or indent and my guess they're there to prevent the hatch from sliding forward while up. In my opinion, I wouldn't remove them unless you're going to take the hatch completely off. If that hatch slipped off the track, moved and slid forward while someone is in the engine compartment, it could do some damage.
My passenger side is set up different than yours, so I understand your plight. I looked in the manual to see if you can move the rear facing seat out of the way, but the manual makes no mention. Does it flip up or anything?
My passenger side is set up different than yours, so I understand your plight. I looked in the manual to see if you can move the rear facing seat out of the way, but the manual makes no mention. Does it flip up or anything?
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The back-to-back seat that Terje has will not move out of the way. The base is solid fiberglass and screwed to the deck. The cushions, themselves, will slide and fold down as all b-b seats do, but the base will not. He does not have the room you do, behind the passenger seat.
- Mar 11, 2013
- 6,829
- Boat Info
- Sara Belle
2005 Weekender 215
- Engines
- Mercruiser 5.0 mpi, Bravo III
Yikes! I always thought I wanted that seating design, now, not so much. A cooler with a cushion has been working fine.
Seeing as the seat doesn't move, I agree with your strut assessment. That would probably be his best option.
Seeing as the seat doesn't move, I agree with your strut assessment. That would probably be his best option.
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I will take some pictures and investigate a little bit more after all your feedback. I have just focused on the issue with the seat and not on possibilities to do something with the hatch. Might be that installing gas springs is the best solution after all, as the hatch opens enough to have good access to the engine.