Battery Configuration??

arcDayton

New Member
Feb 14, 2018
6
Boat Info
06 340 DA. 8.1 v drives
Engines
8.1s v drive
I have a new to me 2006 340 dancer. V drives and gen (I don't think that info is relevant for this question, but just incase).

I got the boat at the end of last year, so I only had it out once before it was dry docked for the winter.

I have 4 batteries on the boat. 2 port and 2 stb.

From seeing the "battery energize" switches/buttons on the cabin electrical panel; I assumed that it was a 3 bank system.

Assuming:

The port bank was made up of 2 batteries in paralell that started the port motor and ran the house?

Then on the stb side there is a 1 battery bank that starts the stb motor, and then 1 battery bank that starts the gen?

Again, I have really only seen the boat once. However, when looking at the electrical diagram in the owners manual it appeared that it was just a 2 bank system. I could be interrupting wrong, but it looked like:

- 2 port batteries in parallel to run the house and start the port motor.
- 2 stb batteries in parallel to start the gen and start the stb motor.

Which one is it? Or I am I totally incorrect on both?

From the little I know about the guy I bought it from (original owner). I highly doubt that altered anything from the factory setup.

I would like to replace batteries. Ideally I would like to put 2 batteries dedicated to the house, and then 1 batt each for port motor, starboard motor, and the gen. Total of 5 batteries.

However if this requires major rewiring (or any other added hardware) than i'll probably just leave it the way it is and get better batteries. I don't really run that gen that much, just listen to a big stereo. I don't want my starting batteries to die because I have been running the stereo all day.

Anyone have any thoughts to this? Am I better off with the factory config (though I would like to make sure I fully understand it)? If so, recommendations on batteries for what I do (which is basically anchor out all day and run the fridge, stereo etc, then return to the slip MOST nights).

Thanks again, this forum has been a wealth of information.
 
I have seen several variations.....

#1 - 2 batteries parallel on port, wired to the house and the port engine, and 2 batteries in parallel on the starboard wired to the starboard engine (and genset if fitted)

#2 - same as for above, but separate for genset.

#3 - (what my 2006, 300da has) 2 cranking batteries parallel on starboard, wired for both engines, multiple deep cycle batteries on port, wired for house only, with an ACR to charge them from the engines. Sometimes a separate battery for a genset if fitted, genset may also be hooked to either port or starboard bank....

#4, each engine gets its own cranking battery, (as does genset if fitted), with multiple deep cycle batteries for house...

Many boats I have seen, (mine included) don’t follow what the factory wiring diagram shows (but it isn’t modified from factory fit...)
 
Thanks in advance for help gentlemen!

Just bought a 2006 44 DA with 8.1 gas engines. It has 7 batteries total and I was told the house batteries were bad and needed replacement. Last night (our first night on the boat) while plugged into shore power, the lights started to flicker and the stereo was getting weak. The DC panel gauges showed port battery at 8 volts or less and starboard battery at 11ish. We downloaded the system and eventually the voltage was around 11 for both batteries. At bedtime the CO2 warning beeper sounded and the voltage went back down to 8 on the port battery. Today I replaced two of the batteries which i think are the house batts. By process of elimination I saw the two batts on series for the bow thruster, then I saw there are 3 batts on port side (I assumed they were for engine and gen starting) so I replaced the two batts on the beam on the floor in parallel. After install the voltage was up to about 13volts for both batts on DC panel. As I started to go back to ops normal and turn stuff back on the port batt sunk to 8 volts again. This huge draw came after we turned on the forward lav lights. The lights worked normal and no CB's or fuses tripped.
Here are my questions>
1) Did i replace the wrong batts? (Owners manual was mute about batt config, even dealer service guy wasn't sure)
2) Is my batt charger bad?
3) Why would forward lav lights cause such a big draw but not trip a fuse or breaker?
4) The new batts, maybe they are new but just need a good charging?
5) Will the batts charge tonight while boat on shore power?
 
Unfortunately, what you need to do is closely inspect all the battery wires and see what’s connected to what, and especially how they are grouped together.

What I recommend, is once you find out what batteries are grouped, disconnect all the + wires, and tie them off where they cannot touch anything. Now connect one set, operate every switch, control, float switch on the boat, see what works and what doesn’t. Then disconnect that group and connect the next, rinse and repeat.

Now that you know what is powered by what, you can make educated decisions on what to do next - perhaps just battery replacement, perhaps modify the wiring to get appropriate loads on appropriate battery banks - I like to have only engine critical things connected to engine batteries, anything not engine critical gets put on the house bank (with the possible exception of anchor windlass, they work better off a cranking battery if the house battery is not very large, and you should only be pulling the anchor after engines are running...)

Any batteries in parallel need to be replaced at the same time, with batteries that are all the same type (and preferably all from the same batch)

Any battery that has a resting voltage 12 volts needs to be replaced (even if you only bought it last week...) any battery with a resting voltage under 12.7 needs to have a few charge cycles and a capacity/load test.

You need to find out why your battery voltages are so low? Just a battery failure, charger failure, user error, wiring fault, load fault?
 
Our boat is set up with 4 batteries for the engines. The two Starboard are strictly for starting that engine. The other two are for the Port engine and 12 volt systems. The generator is connected to both sets of batteries. It does not bleed power between the two batteries. There is also a diode system between the two sets that will allow the stronger battery when full charged to bleed power to the weaker batteries. This was a factory installed item. We also have a stand alone inverter bank that was installed by us to power 120 volt items.
 
Take the batteries out and have them load tested, you'll tell real fast which ones are bad!
 
Take the batteries out and have them load tested, you'll tell real fast which ones are bad!
In an unknown, new to me boat? Replace all of them. You could load test and replace as needed. I am a proponent of safety first and over-thinking. Your batteries are the heart of your boat when not in the slip. Nothing can screw up a day on the water faster than dead batteries. You also could find yourself and family in potential danger in the wrong circumstances. I replace battery banks every 4-5 years as a rule. Just bust out another thousand and be safe...
 
I am having a battery issue with my genset. The three main batteries all new within the last year. I had the original charger replaced with the ProMariner Pronautic 1220P smart charger this Spring. Now the genset battery cranks slowly to dead. Also, the non-starting genset is not working and has to be repaired or replaced, which is another issue.
Doesn't the charger charge this 4th battery also? Or does it rely on the genset to charge it? Just wondering what charges the genset battery which is located up in the starboard aft?
 
The 1220p looks to be a 3 bank charger. Provided you have 2 batteries grouped together (parallel), plus 1 for the other engine, and 1 for genset - that gives you three banks which the charger should support. The genset probably has a very small 12v charger in it as well.

How old is the genset battery? Water level okay? Can you pull it and put it on a different charger, then load test?

Checking to make sure the charger actually is actually connected to all three banks and charging would be the next step after you validate the health of the battery. You should have fuses inline on the wires from your battery charger - perhaps one went bad? Also - is the charger set right - for the type of battery you have? I believe all batteries need to be the same (lead acid / agm / etc) - cant mix match on that charger.

Also assumes nothing else was/has been wires to run from the genset battery. Should be a dedicated battery just for the genset only.
 
I am having a battery issue with my genset. The three main batteries all new within the last year. I had the original charger replaced with the ProMariner Pronautic 1220P smart charger this Spring. Now the genset battery cranks slowly to dead. Also, the non-starting genset is not working and has to be repaired or replaced, which is another issue.
Doesn't the charger charge this 4th battery also? Or does it rely on the genset to charge it? Just wondering what charges the genset battery which is located up in the starboard aft?

In the future you will get better results if you post your own thread and not resurrect an old one. In addition to other comments the charger is only a 20 amp and may not have the output needed for your boat.

MM
 
The 1220p looks to be a 3 bank charger. Provided you have 2 batteries grouped together (parallel), plus 1 for the other engine, and 1 for genset - that gives you three banks which the charger should support. The genset probably has a very small 12v charger in it as well.

How old is the genset battery? Water level okay? Can you pull it and put it on a different charger, then load test?

Checking to make sure the charger actually is actually connected to all three banks and charging would be the next step after you validate the health of the battery. You should have fuses inline on the wires from your battery charger - perhaps one went bad? Also - is the charger set right - for the type of battery you have? I believe all batteries need to be the same (lead acid / agm / etc) - cant mix match on that charger.

Also assumes nothing else was/has been wires to run from the genset battery. Should be a dedicated battery just for the genset only.
Thanks Markrsimon. Don't know the age of this battery. Probably old. Three main batteries are only one year old. Charger was recently professionally installed, correctly I assume. Having the genset serviced or repaired soon I hope. Should clear up the battery problem. Thanks again.
 

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