Official Cummins 6cta 450C thread

Starboard engine voltage is way high (15.5 V), increases with engine RPM. I verified with a multi meter on the battery. Are the alternators rebuildable, or would this be better off buying new?
Yes...all alternators are rebuildable. Some shops rebuild better than new. You just need to find a reputable shop.
 
Starboard engine voltage is way high (15.5 V), increases with engine RPM. I verified with a multi meter on the battery. Are the alternators rebuildable, or would this be better off buying new?
When one of mine went I bought a brand new (not rebuilt) one from sbmar for a whopping $450. Then I bought a rebuilt one for $120 to keep on board as a spare.

So you might want to listen to everyone else's advice... Although that expensive one is definitely pretty darn robust. And it starts putting out immediately at low rpm. You don't need to kick the engine up to 1000 rpm to activate it.
 
Starboard engine voltage is way high (15.5 V), increases with engine RPM. I verified with a multi meter on the battery. Are the alternators rebuildable, or would this be better off buying new?

You can also buy a new Delco Remy from a truck parts store for considerably less. They work perfectly. Check out their website.
 
You can also buy a new Delco Remy from a truck parts store for considerably less. They work perfectly. Check out their website.
If you have a website link, I'll check it out....thanks!
 
When one of mine went I bought a brand new (not rebuilt) one from sbmar for a whopping $450.
I assume this is the 3 wire version that SBMAR sells? I looked quick (on a hot engine last night) and it seems there was 2 wires. 1 heavy to the battery, and a single wire in a molex type connector. Does that sound right?
 
The stock alternator is a common item: Delco Remy 22SI 12V/130A
I looked at SBMAR, they have the 160amp version for $450, and I'm taking my chances with DB Electrical ($94). I'll need to swap the pulley.
 
I assume this is the 3 wire version that SBMAR sells? I looked quick (on a hot engine last night) and it seems there was 2 wires. 1 heavy to the battery, and a single wire in a molex type connector. Does that sound right?
It's the two wire version. One big wire to battery by way of starter and a small wire that plugs into bottom of alternator that monitors battery voltage. And yes, I went with 160 amp, although since I pulled off my grid heaters probably not as important.
 
The stock alternator is a common item: Delco Remy 22SI 12V/130A
I looked at SBMAR, they have the 160amp version for $450, and I'm taking my chances with DB Electrical ($94). I'll need to swap the pulley.
I have used the DB Electric ones on both engines to replace the original Delco 22SI. They have been working 5 years plus. Can’t beat the price!
 
It's the two wire version. One big wire to battery by way of starter and a small wire that plugs into bottom of alternator that monitors battery voltage. And yes, I went with 160 amp, although since I pulled off my grid heaters probably not as important.
Did you need to change any of the alternator wiring?
 
Did you need to change any of the alternator wiring?
Nope. Super easy. Disconnected big power wire from the old alternator. Unplugged twin lead monitor plug (only one of the two leads used). Swapped alternators and reconnected the same wires. The new alternator came with a new monitor wire plug. But I just plugged the old one into the new one. Same form factor. I'm sure Tony speced then to be exact replacements. I'll take a picture later today.
 
Nope. Super easy. Disconnected big power wire from the old alternator. Unplugged twin lead monitor plug (only one of the two leads used). Swapped alternators and reconnected the same wires. The new alternator came with a new monitor wire plug. But I just plugged the old one into the new one. Same form factor. I'm sure Tony speced then to be exact replacements. I'll take a picture later today.
Thanks Bill......installed and charging great again! Not sure why I keep putting back the belt shroud though. That is one pain in the ass on the stbd engine with it right up against the coolant overflow bottle.
 
Thanks Bill......installed and charging great again! Not sure why I keep putting back the belt shroud though. That is one pain in the ass on the stbd engine with it right up against the coolant overflow bottle.
Yup. I have to remove my overflow bottle and move it out of the way to get that belt cover on and off. So I've cut back on the number of screws holding it up from six to four. And I have to rig up some kinda of socket and tape gizmo to get that bottom belt guard bolt on. My arm is too short.
 
Yup. I have to remove my overflow bottle and move it out of the way to get that belt cover on and off. So I've cut back on the number of screws holding it up from six to four. And I have to rig up some kinda of socket and tape gizmo to get that bottom belt guard bolt on. My arm is too short.
That is funny with the tape. I was showing my 9 year old son some of dads tape on the bolt tricks......I remove the radiator (4 bolts) and pull it away to remove the shroud. My overflow is not touched
 
All done. Found a new elbow at the local plumbing store. It was much easier to use a wrench on this new elbow fitting. One more dab of touch up paint left to go.
 

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Starboard engine voltage is way high (15.5 V), increases with engine RPM. I verified with a multi meter on the battery. Are the alternators rebuildable, or would this be better off buying new?

Alternators are rebuildable - and aren't that bad. Find a good rebuild shop and you'll be good to go
 
All done. Found a new elbow at the local plumbing store. It was much easier to use a wrench on this new elbow fitting. One more dab of touch up paint left to go.
Bill, what was the symptom that you did all this work? Were you leaking fuel at the banjo fitting? Assuming this was one engine, just currious if you did both engines from a preventative measure.
 
Bill, what was the symptom that you did all this work? Were you leaking fuel at the banjo fitting? Assuming this was one engine, just currious if you did both engines from a preventative measure.
Fuel was weeping out from the elbow threads going into the big long nut at the end of the banjo pipe. I guess it wasn't tight enough and/or sealant failed. It only leaked with engine off, since with engine on that fuel line is under suction. Been that way since I bought boat in 2013. Banjo washers weren't leaking at all. I had a similar problem a few years ago at one of the fittings going into the fuel selector valves in the cockpit. That one I just removed the fitting, cleaned all the threads and then put new sealant on and tightened it back on.

Other engine is fine. Fitting is bone dry. I didn't touch it.
 

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