Help - water pump failure - how to replace

Boater71

Boater71

Member
Mar 5, 2018
321
Boston, MA
Boat Info
2008 Sea Ray 310 Sundancer
Engines
MX6.2 MPI Bravo III DTS with Axius and SeaCore
Kohler Genset
I started the boat today, starboard temp started rising and never stopped. at 178 i shut the engine off, opened the hatch and Coolant is flowing. I took a picture and saw this. Should i just get a new pump? or is this a hole that needs to be plugged? this is a tomorrow am project so i dont lose the weekend. appreciate your help!!

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That’s the weep hole. Coolant leaking from there means that the pump needs to be replaced.
 
Espos4 said:
That’s the weep hole. Coolant leaking from there means that the pump needs to be replaced.
Click to expand...
thank you for the quick reply - is it something i can get done ? I'm mechanically inclined.
 
Pretty straight forward.
Drain and capture coolant if fresh water cooled
Loosen pulley bolts
Remove belt
Remove pulley
Loosen hose clamps
Remove bolts holding the pump to the block.
Clean gasket surfaces, and reinstall.
 
Espos4 said:
Pretty straight forward.
Drain and capture coolant if fresh water cooled
Loosen pulley bolts
Remove belt
Remove pulley
Loosen hose clamps
Remove bolts holding the pump to the block.
Clean gasket surfaces, and reinstall.
Click to expand...
Super thank YOU. this is going to save my long weekend!!!! now have to find the part - westmarine has one i will look around in the am for other options.
 
There's a few youtube videos showing you how to do it.

I had to change out my starboard pump this spring.
2019-05-19 17.24.34.jpg


The few things I ran into:
- I needed a deep well socket to get 2 of the double sided bolts out.
- I had to use a impact wrench to get 4 bolts out of the pulley.
- My water heater had a line attached to my starboard water pump so on the new pump I had to remove the plug to reinstall the hose fitting. I had to obtain a large allen socket to remove this plug and it was a PITA because of the sealant used on the plug.
 
BTW - that is a standard reverse rotation GM water pump that is available at any auto parts store - $75 for the extended warrantee ones.
 
ttmott said:
BTW - that is a standard reverse rotation GM water pump that is available at any auto parts store - $75 for the extended warrantee ones.
Click to expand...
do you have a part number? i cant seem to match the mercruiser to the GM? GM part number on the pump is 12598183 and Mercury number is: 8503991. Found one at west marine, charging $115.
 
Little Ducky said:
There's a few youtube videos showing you how to do it.

I had to change out my starboard pump this spring. View attachment 73025

The few things I ran into:
- I needed a deep well socket to get 2 of the double sided bolts out.
- I had to use a impact wrench to get 4 bolts out of the pulley.
- My water heater had a line attached to my starboard water pump so on the new pump I had to remove the plug to reinstall the hose fitting. I had to obtain a large allen socket to remove this plug and it was a PITA because of the sealant used on the plug.
Click to expand...
Do you recall the large allen socket size?
 
Boater71 said:
do you have a part number? i cant seem to match the mercruiser to the GM? GM part number on the pump is 12598183 and Mercury number is: 8503991. Found one at west marine, charging $115.
Click to expand...
Take the removed pump to Autozone or NAPA or any local parts house. Two important things - 1. It must be reverse rotation and 2. make sure the pulley flange height is the same on both pumps.
You can always tell a reverse rotation pump as the pulley has a smooth face and not ribbed.
 
Yeah, you can order one online - Sierra makes a good replacement at a better price than OEM Mercruiser - or if you need it now I would go to NAPA, take the old pump. Especially with your engine being closed cooling this is really an exact replacement with an automotive pump. I have replaced these on every boat I have owned, they just wear out eventually, it's the same circulating water pump that is on a car engine. One tip, loosen the pulley bolts before you remove the serpentine belt, makes it much easier. Easy DIY.
 
If raw water cooled and in salt, be sure to get a marine pump, the impeller is stainless as is the shaft. A regular automotive one will corrode in no time. If its closed loop cooled, no real problem with automotive.
 
Quick update. I grabbed one at west marine. Sierra I believe. I replaced it and had difficulty as there is another puppy mount right in-front of it. I figure it out though by loosening the mount. I could not remove as its Holding another pulley. Now, after all this, temp is still high. I initially put the west marine green coolant, but that is not what I was suppose to do. So I disconnected the hose to the pump connection to let it bleed. A mix of orange and green came out. I got the orange stuff and put it back in. Engine temp still keeps going up. I shut the engine at about 175. My engine run between 162-165. What am I missing here. I checked the strainer, all good. Not sure what am I missing
 
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Here is where 2 of the studs are.
 

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Boater71 said:
Quick update. I grabbed one at west marine. Sierra I believe. I replaced it and had difficulty as there is another puppy mount right in-front of it. I figure it out though by loosening the mount. I could not remove as its Holding another pulley. Now, after all this, temp is still high. I initially put the west marine green coolant, but that is not what I was suppose to do. So I disconnected the hose to the pump connection to let it bleed. A mix of orange and green came out. I got the orange stuff and put it back in. Engine temp still keeps going up. I shut the engine at about 175. My engine run between 162-165. What am I missing here. I checked the strainer, all good. Not sure what am I missing
Click to expand...
I think you need to check your thermostat(is it sticking or ever been changed?), your heat exchanger(ever cleaned out?) and your raw water pump for correct operation. These are really simple systems, but everything has to be working in coordination.
 
Have you bled the air out of the system after changing the pump? Had similar issue with cooling system. Replaced everything but would still overheat. Was just air trapped in the system. You probably have a bleed valve near the thermostat. Start it up, get a bunch of rags and crack open the bleed valve. When it stops sputtering air and is just coolant close it up.
 
Bayou340 said:
Have you bled the air out of the system after changing the pump? Had similar issue with cooling system. Replaced everything but would still overheat. Was just air trapped in the system. You probably have a bleed valve near the thermostat. Start it up, get a bunch of rags and crack open the bleed valve. When it stops sputtering air and is just coolant close it up.
Click to expand...

thank You for the tip. I agree as I believe it was air trapped in the system somewhere. I did not know about the bleed valve but kept adding coolant. Sunday temp was getting up to 181 with idle and then back to 162 with higher RPMs. After adding another 1/2 gallon, it was back to normal operation between 160 and 167.
 
Bayou340 said:
Have you bled the air out of the system after changing the pump? Had similar issue with cooling system. Replaced everything but would still overheat. Was just air trapped in the system. You probably have a bleed valve near the thermostat. Start it up, get a bunch of rags and crack open the bleed valve. When it stops sputtering air and is just coolant close it up.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip.
 
capecodcruiser said:
I think you need to check your thermostat(is it sticking or ever been changed?), your heat exchanger(ever cleaned out?) and your raw water pump for correct operation. These are really simple systems, but everything has to be working in coordination.
Click to expand...

Thank YOU. i will add these to my maintenance tasks in the coming weeks.
 
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