420/44 DB Owners Club

I have the same "rusty-brown" water shows up under my port engine. Evaporates and leaves a stain that is very easy to clean up, but I plan to go on a hunt to find it. I have had this issue for a while. Starboard side is dry as a bone as is the rest of my bilge. At most I might get a cup of water out from under the port engine....

Bennett
The trick for me was to find the streaks, sometimes just shiny trails, of where the water was coming from then trace it back. Sometimes the trail goes cold though as it leads to areas you can't see beyond!

A little OCD kicking-in, I guess!
 
Would anyone happen to know the rough dimensions of the front windows on the 42/44 DB. Want to pick up some sun blackout shades from Amazon (more for privacy) but won't be at the boat until this weekend.

Thanks
 
Would anyone happen to know the rough dimensions of the front windows on the 42/44 DB. Want to pick up some sun blackout shades from Amazon (more for privacy) but won't be at the boat until this weekend.

Thanks
Sorry, I did not see this earlier as I was at the boat. I actually made some foil laminated bubble wrap insulation screens that I put under my sunbrella black out windshield cover. I made an entire set for the cabin that just wedge in the window frames between the window and the shades. Virtually no UV penetrates the cabin. I install them when we are not on the boat and some times put the shades up on particularly hot sunny days on the sun side. I cut them to shape and then sewed a binding to the edges. I found the paper templates for the side cabin windows but I don't know what I did with the front window templates.
Carpe
 
Would anyone happen to know the rough dimensions of the front windows on the 42/44 DB. Want to pick up some sun blackout shades from Amazon (more for privacy) but won't be at the boat until this weekend.

Thanks

We are here now and can get you the measurements on the am.

Bennett
 
The outside two windows are 42” wide(side to side) and 38” long(top to bottom). The center window is 40” wide and 44” long. This is pretty close. If you want exact, let me know.

Bennett
 
The outside two windows are 42” wide(side to side) and 38” long(top to bottom). The center window is 40” wide and 44” long. This is pretty close. If you want exact, let me know.

Bennett
Much appreciated, thanks.
 
I have a new to me 07 44 DB that has major water leaks into the bilge during hard rains which happens every day in Florida. I was on the boat during a storm the other day and found water to be flowing down the hull sides near the water heater on one side and the holding tank on the other. I was thinking there could be a problem in the engine vents or the joint between the hull and deck is leaking. I have repaired the drains to the rod holders.
Has anyone had this problem?

Thanks
 
You might remove and reseal the engine vent moldings. The PO or their detailer may have removed them for polishing and then reinstalled without sealing them.
Happy hunting and enjoy your 44, we love ours
Carpe Diem
 
Thanks for the reply. That was going to be my first place to look but I think the leak is aft by a foot or two.
 
Noticed that we have 2 vent filters on the head system. I don’t think this is original. I believe the original was such a pain to get to the po installed a second one behind the generator panel near the transom and never replaced the one on the holding tank. Wondering if there is any down side to just eliminating the one on the waste tank and just keeping the one behind the panel?
I did this about 10 years ago, cut the vent line behind the generator panel and added another filter. This one I can get to, the one on top of the holding tank is out of reach for me. This setup has worked for me for 10 years already!
 
You say removable U-insets. So the panels are hard and the inserts zip out. Do you store them snapped up to the ceiling or take them out completely? I am curious because my boat has strataglass in the front panels but back panels are still just isenglass. I have 2 roll up panels in the back and it would be nice when it is time to replace it to go with hard panels for visibility but I would still need to remove them to get air.
I have hard panels (Polycarbonate) all around. The center fr0n and back panels snap to the ceiling. The center side panels are hinged and can open half or full, also attached by snaps!
 

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.... first, when I start fueling up i notice that we get some spillage out the vents. It tappers off to just a few drips afterword but i have to keep a rag under the vent to catch the fuel when fueling...

Based on my experience, the spillage from the vents happens only when topping off the tanks by allowing a pump's nuzzle to shut off automatically. Some aren't tuned and spillage happens at the fill. To avoid this, I just listen as the tanks are getting close to full and I manually stop the pump as soon as I hear the change in the sound pitch, indicating that the tanks are getting full. Having said that, I spill the fuel via vents on very rare occasion.
 
Based on my experience, the spillage from the vents happens only when topping off the tanks by allowing a pump's nuzzle to shut off automatically. Some aren't tuned and spillage happens at the fill. To avoid this, I just listen as the tanks are getting close to full and I manually stop the pump as soon as I hear the change in the sound pitch, indicating that the tanks are getting full. Having said that, I spill the fuel via vents on very rare occasion.

I agree with you Alex. The fuel gets stuck in the vent line only when the tank is overfilled. However, sometimes an inexperienced pump operator, or background noise make it difficult to hear when the tanks are nearing full. I usually monitor the fuel gauges at the helm and have them slow down when the gauge says we're close. Usually once a season I'll get overfilled, and then the vent lines will spit drops of fuel for several fill ups going forward.
 
I agree with you Alex. The fuel gets stuck in the vent line only when the tank is overfilled. However, sometimes an inexperienced pump operator, or background noise make it difficult to hear when the tanks are nearing full. I usually monitor the fuel gauges at the helm and have them slow down when the gauge says we're close. Usually once a season I'll get overfilled, and then the vent lines will spit drops of fuel for several fill ups going forward.
Good to know, fueled up a few days ago and there was no spillage when we started. Will try this method and see how it goes.
 
With this being a new-to-us boat I have a long list of mtce items to work thru and establish my own baseline. This past weekend was the duck bill valves ... Port side went pretty smoothly but I could only get the last two (in the outflow line after the pump) on the starboard side - and I did that by crawling around behind the generator. There was no way I could contort to reach and undo the screw clamp coming from the tank ahead of the vacuum pump. Is there any trick to being able to undo it? Only option I could see was to remove the exhaust tube to free up enough space. Hoping someone has the magic formula.
I don’t fit back there anymore, but my toilet repair guy removed the pump and repaired the pump which turned out to be just the duck bills on the dock!
 
Yes, there are two drains. What I was asking is if anyone has lids to cover the drain holes. The lids should be attached on the ER hatch. I wanted to see what they look like, as mine were never there.


I was puzzled for a while why do I get sea water on my tool box, I found an answer while doing some checking during a cruise. When seas hit the hull the water rushes through those drain holes right in to the ER. Obviously it's all in controlled fashion when ER hatch is closed, but when it's open, you're looking at two fountains.


After discovering this, I realized that I'm missing two small lids from the ER hatch. So, I'm trying to find the replacement.
I discovered this in year one after taking delivery. The dealer installed a check valve in each drain hose, problem solved!
 
I installed a remote control system on my 44DB. It controls the transmissions and the thruster only. I bring it into the slip single handed with a small hand held transmitter on a lanyard around my neck standing in the cockpit or swim platform. My bride a crew she is not so I can leave her with her cocktail on the bridge and I can dock the boat without the frustration of having "help". I installed the same one on my buddies 420. It takes about two hours to install and no wires need to be cut. It works on 2.3 Gigahertz so there is no radio interference. I'm thinking of offering DIY kits or even custom installations. The Yacht Controller sells for 8-10 grand plus installation. This system can be installed for less than 20% of the Yacht Controller with the same built in interference and security features. I've operated my boat now for over 100 hrs with this system and have yet to have a problem.
if interested to get more info or are interested in one for your boat PM me.
Happy Yachting
Carp - please send me more into at your convenience - on your system
 

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