04 30’ Sundance’s windlass issue

gdavis67

Active Member
Mar 1, 2017
137
Saugatuck, MI
Boat Info
1990 390ec
Engines
Twin 454 Mercruiser T 340 with Hurth drives
The windlass on our 04 Dancer 30 has been acting up and I need some help. The dash switch powers on (green light on) and I can hear solenoid clicking when trying to move anchor up and down. Boat has foot controls and they work. I took the solenoid control box apart that is in the anchor locker and cleaned/sanded the contacts - no difference. When clicking the up/down switch, it sounds like there is a solenoid in the cabin area under the dash. Is this correct? The windlass is a Lofrans Progress 1 unit. Before I purchase a new control box I would like to know if there is another area I should be checking. Thanks in advance.
 
The windlass on our 04 Dancer 30 has been acting up and I need some help. The dash switch powers on (green light on) and I can hear solenoid clicking when trying to move anchor up and down. Boat has foot controls and they work. I took the solenoid control box apart that is in the anchor locker and cleaned/sanded the contacts - no difference. When clicking the up/down switch, it sounds like there is a solenoid in the cabin area under the dash. Is this correct? The windlass is a Lofrans Progress 1 unit. Before I purchase a new control box I would like to know if there is another area I should be checking. Thanks in advance.
Are you saying when you use the foot controls it goes up and down but not with the dash switch ?
 
Are you saying when you use the foot controls it goes up and down but not with the dash switch ?
Correct. I have found a diagram that shows there is another solenoid in the engine compartment on the firewall.
 
Correct. I have found a diagram that shows there is another solenoid in the engine compartment on the firewall.
That would be the master control solenoid. That is turned on and off by your switch pad at the helm.

The up and down would send a trigger voltage to the control box up in the anchor locker.

-Kevin
 
I have a related, but different issue. Mid Last year my windlass was doing the same as what was described above. My service marina thought the solenoid in the engine compartment was bad and replaced it as the helm switch would turn on, but no difference. They eventually were able to switch the continuous mode of the solenoid to “on” instead of “off”, which enabled the helm controls to operate the windlass. However, that means there is constant power to the windlass controls and foot switches as the helm power switch is “on” (green) all the time. I can’t turn off power to the windlass, but at least I can use it. Anyone had and resolved this issue? I’ve followed the wiring diagrams, and checked voltages, but can’t figure this one out.
 
New windlass issues and resolution:

Had a bit of excitement this weekend. My son and I took my 79 year old mother for her first overnight boat trip. Didn't go far. Just to a nice sheltered cove in a National Park about 40 min boat ride from the marina. Pulled into a very crowded cove and backed into a good anchor spot between two other groups anchored and stern tied to shore. And the windlass wont work! AAARG!. Now what to do.

The Main switch does not activate the solenoid "on" but I can hear it click to turn "off". No time to sort it out, I needed to get the anchor down (and cross my fingers I don't need to pull it back up manually while trying to anchor and get it set. One chance at this.) Used the capstan wrench to manually drop the hook. Luckily it sets properly first time. Back to shore to set it and tie on the stern line to a nice large tree. Whew.

My son is a electronics buff and comp science grad so he gets out the wiring schematic, my multi-meter and screwdriver and has it figured out in about half and hour. The Main switch is bad. So I go onto Sea Ray Parts (Flounder Pounder) and order a new one (VLD1-3 Carling (ON)/OFF/(ON) double pole momentary rocker switch, independent clear lamp in position #1. Sea Ray Part # 1733928). Also decided to order the Cherry Burl windlass switch panel since I always hated the OEM black plastic one and it was cracked anyway.

But how to get my anchor up tomorrow?? My son is much more confident than me that we can just use bare wires to bridge the wiring to the solenoid to engage it and he knows what wires to bridge. So we try it, and the solenoid gives a nice clunk. Test the up/down and it WORKS!. All good for now. Next day we were able to raise the anchor with the windlass. New parts should arrive tomorrow.

I probably could have taken the switch apart and cleaned the contacts inside, but decided that after 22 years, it might be time to replace it. I will take the old one apart after the new one is installed. If it can be cleaned up I will keep it for a spare. The windlass pad on the late 90's 330DAs is in a spot where any canvas leakage or wash water that gets on the dash area can run down along the windscreen and then spills over that switch panel. So no wonder they can get corrosion on them.
 

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