Unstable table

Adefelice

Member
Jul 18, 2012
79
CT River
Boat Info
01 Wellcraft 3700 Martinique, Mercury RIB with 8hp Yamaha 2 stroke.
Engines
Twin 454 7.4 MPI Horizon
So I have this cockpit table on my boat and if you look at it the wrong way it wobbles and knocks over the drinks of unsuspecting guests. See pic below.
I wonder if it is due to the one stanchion supporting the table or the fact it's not heavy like a wood table or both?

I am tired of telling guests to hold their drinks even while at the dock and then cleaning up the mess when it eventually tips over.

I'd love the look of a nice teak table however, I'd rather not spend the $$ if I'm gonna have the same problem.

Should I just cut out the cup holders and put deeper ones in?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
IMG_7086.JPG
 
Is it loose in the post hole? Is it loose at the table itself? Is the floor defecting?
 
Flooring seems fine, the post hole is super tight (actually difficult to remove) I have to double-check where it connects to the table I don't believe it's loose but maybe that's my issue.
Thanks for the reply!
 
The bottom of the plastic table top may be flimsy and flexing a lot when bumped. Also there are different table pedestals that maybe stiffer, some with adjustable heights.
 
If the leg and floor socket are tight, and the leg table connection is solid there should only be minor movement. Over the years I’ve made several solid teak and mahogany tables, most of which were larger than the tables they replaced and all have been solid. In fact I made one for a friend where one of the design parameters was that it had to be able to stay standing if a small child climbed up on it.
 
I removed the floor plate and screws. I re-epoxied the holes, re-mounted the floor plate and it made all the difference in the world. Your results may vary...
 
Thank you guys for the advice. This gives me a few things to look at over the weekend.
Or maybe I'm subconsciously trying to justify a custom made teak table ;)

I'll post back with any updates after the weekend.
 
If the leg and floor socket are tight, and the leg table connection is solid there should only be minor movement. Over the years I’ve made several solid teak and mahogany tables, most of which were larger than the tables they replaced and all have been solid. In fact I made one for a friend where one of the design parameters was that it had to be able to stay standing if a small child climbed up on it.
Henry knows about tables no doubt!!! ;)
 
Is it loose in the post hole? Is it loose at the table itself? Is the floor defecting?

Looks like I have 3 screws that are stripped at the base where it joins to the floor.
When I remove it what should I use to fill in the screw holes? 5200? something else?
 
I did this project last year, The PO of my boat never took the table and post out, so it took alot of vibration. Screws were loose, the whole thing was just wobbly.

I created a backing plate out of Starboard to go on the underside of the fitting (underside of the engine hatch). Added some larger washers on the underside, sealed with 4200, all good.
 
I did this project last year, The PO of my boat never took the table and post out, so it took alot of vibration. Screws were loose, the whole thing was just wobbly.

I created a backing plate out of Starboard to go on the underside of the fitting (underside of the engine hatch). Added some larger washers on the underside, sealed with 4200, all good.


Yep, this is your best approach. Through bolted with a backing plate and sealed up well makes for a permanent repair and a much sturdier table.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,950
Messages
1,422,865
Members
60,932
Latest member
juliediane
Back
Top