420 DA Thread

On visual inspection the 90° elbow on waste hose looked like it was sagging and when I jiggled the hose it moved a little too easy. So I started by squirting some pipe dope around the hose where it met the grommet and that fixed the leak, albeit temporarily. If that didn’t work I would’ve started at the pump testing to see if it would hold vacuum and work my way toward the toilet.
 
Need some quick help if possible. Heading to the boat in a bit and need to replace my front starboard navigation bulb. I don't mind incandescent if that's what available right now. Can someone tell me the bulb type I need?
 
Yes, I just did this. Make sure it’s single contact (not double) bayonet base, 10w incandescent bulb. Ancor is the brand I used. Available in every marine store on the planet.
 
** MASTER STATEROOM INDIRECT LIGHT / BLUE LED ROPE LIGHT **

Screen Shot 2019-07-19 at 10.54.40 PM.png - As you may know there is a switch in the master stateroom labeled "INDIRECT"

Screen Shot 2019-07-19 at 10.56.48 PM.png - This switch controls the blue rope lighting that is concealed under the master bed. As you can see mine is on it's last legs ... with only 2 LED's still lit up.

Screen Shot 2019-07-19 at 10.58.29 PM.png - The rope light seems to go off into a bit of a deep tunnel on the starboard side.

  • Has anybody replaced this rope lighting?
  • Where does the end of the rope lighting splice into the boat wiring / or a rope transformer?
  • Where/how do you get access to this splice to replace the lighting?
 
** MASTER STATEROOM INDIRECT LIGHT / BLUE LED ROPE LIGHT **

View attachment 72738 - As you may know there is a switch in the master stateroom labeled "INDIRECT"

View attachment 72739 - This switch controls the blue rope lighting that is concealed under the master bed. As you can see mine is on it's last legs ... with only 2 LED's still lit up.

View attachment 72740 - The rope light seems to go off into a bit of a deep tunnel on the starboard side.

  • Has anybody replaced this rope lighting?
  • Where does the end of the rope lighting splice into the boat wiring / or a rope transformer?
  • Where/how do you get access to this splice to replace the lighting?
Hynespa - I am hoping someone can respond with answer; I have the same issue. The light has never worked since I purchased the boat last year.

Frank
 
** DROP DOWN TV ISSUE / LINEAR ACTUATOR REMOVAL UPDATE**

As I posted a couple weeks ago, my drop down TV would no longer retract. I identified the linear actuator as the problem, but due to where it was in the ceiling just to the left of where the TV drops down, I couldn't get it removed. I finally got it removed today!!!

1) Screen Shot 2019-07-20 at 8.44.55 PM.png To get access to where the actuator was, I had to remove the screws which were holding in the black recessed wood compartment that the TV folds into. Unfortunately the screws holding it in are screwed in from the semi-inaccessible ceiling side. I had to buy a special screwdriver from Japan to get most of the screws out. The remaining screw could not be unscrewed because there was a metal bracket right behind it and there was not room for the screw to come out. I finally had to drill out the area around the screw. I made a little bit of a mess and will have to patch it up later. Luckily since it's up in the ceiling it's not very noticeable.

2) Screen Shot 2019-07-20 at 8.51.48 PM.png - Once unscrewed, the compartment backing didn't have enough clearance to be completely removed - but I was able to slide it a few inches to the back and side so I had better access to access the bolts holding in the actuator.
3) Screen Shot 2019-07-20 at 8.54.01 PM.png - The back end of the actuator is held in with a single bolt. You will need a small Allen wrench to hold one end if the bolt steady, while taking a regular wrench to the far side to loosen and remove the nut. This all requires gymnastics and bending my arms and wrists in directions I didn't realize they could go. Once the nut was off I needed vice grips to pull the bolt out.
4) Screen Shot 2019-07-20 at 8.56.33 PM.png - The moving end of the actuator is also held in with a single bolt. You will also need an Allen wrench (one size up from the back side) and a regular wrench (also one size up) to remove the nut, and then vice grips to pull out the bolt. There are also spacers on the bolt that will fall out once the actuator comes free of the swing down TV assembly.
5) Screen Shot 2019-07-20 at 9.00.56 PM.png - There is a blue wire and green wire attached to the red and black actuator lead wires. Unfortunately (and stupidly) I didn't make note of whether red went to green or blue before I disconnected the wires.
6) Screen Shot 2019-07-20 at 9.02.59 PM.png - Success! The linear actuator removed from the ceiling and placed on the counter. It's larger than I was expecting.
7) Screen Shot 2019-07-20 at 9.04.33 PM.png - In an effort to figure out whether green or blue was positive, I unscrewed the rocker switch that controls the TV going up or down from the wall. I noted these wires were black and blue. I noted when I pushed the switch I heard a "clicking" somewhere in the cabin - so figured there was some sort of relay/controller between the switch and the motor.
8) Screen Shot 2019-07-20 at 9.07.42 PM.pngScreen Shot 2019-07-20 at 9.10.01 PM.png - I found the controller behind the salon sofa (near where the Stereo amps / Sirius tuner / etc are located). The controller is an Intellitec model 00-00193-100 Slide Out Room Contrl Low Current. Note the green and blue wires attached to the "Motor" terminals - no polarity is noted - perhaps because the motor has to reverse depending on which direction the TV is going.
9) Screen Shot 2019-07-20 at 9.12.48 PM.png - As I mentioned in an earlier post, the replacement actuator costs over $500. The labels on the actuator state that there are no user serviceable parts inside. I figured I had nothing to lose - so tried to take it apart. Looks like whatever attaches the gear to the stroke came loose. At first I thought I could tighten with an Allen wrench - but now I am not sure. I'm going to contact the manufacturer Duff Norton and see if there is a repair option. I will post further updates!
 
Hi all
Looking into replacing the snap in carpet with a faux teak product.Considering Flex teak,Sea deck anyone have any experience with these products.Thanks
 
We had PlasDeck on our 410DA, and absolutely loved it. We went with the natural color, and look, feel, and gleanability was fantastic.

-Tom
 
Tom
Did it tend to get hot in the direct Sun.We are in Florida and I am worried about how hot the material gets.Thanks

Steve
 
Ours definitely got warm, but not as much as the original SR carpet that it replaced. Like I mentioned, we chose the natural color however they have lighter colors as well that they said would be much better as far as not getting hot in the sun. If I remember correctly, I believe they have some colors that are specifically designed to not get hot in the sun.

-Tom
 

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