Official Cummins 6cta 450C thread

Jaybeaux said:
Blueone/Woody/EKM....I think you guys hit the nail on the head. When I changed the impeller last year (my first time), well, I don't think I need to say anymore. I am having a vague memory of forgetting to install the plastic cap. When disassembling today, there was no plastic cap. I'm beginning to think that the key ground itself away on the "cover", Part #3 in Woody's picture. Finally, it just fell out. What is left is very similar in length to the depth of the plastic cap.

I think I'll remove the cap again tomorrow and look closer at it and perhaps even flip it.

Thanks for all the comments.

Jaybeaux
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Good catch on not over heating the motor!
The condition of the nub of key should also tell you weather it broke or wore away. When you take the cover off tomorrow, pull the impeller and check for scratching and gouging of the inside of the pump body and cam if you have not already. If it's damaged, it will chew up impellers.
Hopefully it slipped out and the impeller just stopped turning and the little piece of key stayed at the hub area of the impeller causing no damage to the pump. How about the other side?
If you are interested, search further back in this thread or the 400DB thread (I can't remember where I posted) about installing overheat switches in the exhaust manifolds and on the exhaust hoses. Good luck.
Edit: it's this thread. post#298
 
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Look what I found on the little ledge behind the sofa!
15614145455472847089846952196898.jpg
 
NotHerDecision said:
Ed

Come to find out there are 4 different model numbers for injectors so I started reading and learned the final version in the most recent CPL changes from a 4 nozzle spray pattern to a 5. Long story short I didn’t expect much but changed the injectors.

Wow! Was I wrong. My engine puuuuurrrrss. It so smooth my wife thought I only had the generator running. White smoke is gone and needless to say I’m going to change the other engine as well.

Food for thought.
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Very interesting, would you be able to post the part number?

Thanks,
Tom
 
Jaybeaux said:
Look what I found on the little ledge behind the sofa!View attachment 71697
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Looks .... new!

Good catch on shutting down so quickly. Just changed my impellers for the first time as well, won't forget this lesson. Did you find the rest of the key? While the cap keeps the key fully seated, it is about 2" long ... should be about 1.5" somewhere.
 
I think the water tube part you want is cummins 3897613. It is with the Aftercooler plumbing on Quickserve.

The Injectors I changed to are 4025299
 
Jaybeaux said:
Blueone/Woody/EKM....I think you guys hit the nail on the head. When I changed the impeller last year (my first time), well, I don't think I need to say anymore. I am having a vague memory of forgetting to install the plastic cap. When disassembling today, there was no plastic cap. I'm beginning to think that the key ground itself away on the "cover", Part #3 in Woody's picture. Finally, it just fell out. What is left is very similar in length to the depth of the plastic cap.

I think I'll remove the cap again tomorrow and look closer at it and perhaps even flip it.

Thanks for all the comments.

Jaybeaux
Click to expand...
Glad you caught it in time. Hi temp sensors are no match for a good ear.
 
20190704_091822.jpg 20190704_093248.jpg 20190704_093254.jpg 20190704_093308.jpg So I decided to buy a new faceplate for the water pump on the Starboard side. For review, this is the one where I didn't install the key "keeper" and after 53 hours of operation, the key had worked its way out and essentially ground itself to oblivion. Today, I changed the faceplate with a new one. Good thing. This closes this chapter. I hope someone can learn from this almost fatal mistake. For grins, and giggles, the new one, purchased out of California, has a Prop65 warning sticker on it.
 
Has anyone used this product? If so, are there tangible benefits?
Diesel Kleen Fuel Additive
 
Hello all, I’ve been trying to rectify a problem I’m having with my oil pressure reading at the helm on my star motor. I’ve already replaced the gauges on the dash to fix another issue so they are brand new. My oil pressure gauge at the helm has always worked intermittently but mostly it would sit at 0psi while the reading on the motor has been spot on. I recently replaced the oil pressure sensor with a new one from SBAR. This new one has 2 wire contacts compared to the old one that had 1. Per SBAR one needs a ground and it doesn’t matter which one. I swapped out the sensor yesterday now the gauge at the helm starts at 100psi at idle and goes down from there at cruise to around 60-70psi (only went for a 10 min cruise). It’s grounded to the grid heater btw. I’ve also swapped the wires to see if any change and none.
 
Uh oh... this is like a oil thread ;).

I follow Frank Webster’s school of fuel management. I believe you need a Cetane improver, a lubricity additive, and a biocide. This being said there are many combinations to accomplish this task.

Power Service is the maker of Diesel Kleen and they make BioKleen so you could effectively use these 2 products to accomplish the increase in cetane, add lubricity, and keep gunk from growing in your tank.

I don’t believe it is one of those things you will see improvement overnight. It’s not HP in a bottle but more of a long term plan to keep everything running like it was designed before the introduction of low sulfur diesel and the loss of lubricity that change caused.

As a personal note: I run their biokleen biocide but I use Stanadyne performance formula and stanadyne lubricity formula in my boat.

Power Service biokleen is absolutely amazing. I keep 6 bottles on hand and have treated many boats. It will milk the algae and then it into a fine black powder your filters can clean.
 
Uh oh... this is like a oil thread ;).

I follow Frank Webster’s school of fuel management. I believe you need a Cetane improver, a lubricity additive, and a biocide. This being said there are many combinations to accomplish this task.

Power Service is the maker of Diesel Kleen and they make BioKleen so you could effectively use these 2 products to accomplish the increase in cetane, add lubricity, and keep gunk from growing in your tank.

I don’t believe it is one of those things you will see improvement overnight. It’s not HP in a bottle but more of a long term plan to keep everything running like it was designed before the introduction of low sulfur diesel and the loss of lubricity that change caused.

As a personal note: I run their biokleen biocide but I use Stanadyne performance formula and stanadyne lubricity formula in my boat.

Power Service biokleen is absolutely amazing. I keep 6 bottles on hand and have treated many boats. It will milk the algae and then it into a fine black powder your filters can clean.
 
NotHerDecision said:
Uh oh... this is like a oil thread ;).

I follow Frank Webster’s school of fuel management. I believe you need a Cetane improver, a lubricity additive, and a biocide. This being said there are many combinations to accomplish this task.

Power Service is the maker of Diesel Kleen and they make BioKleen so you could effectively use these 2 products to accomplish the increase in cetane, add lubricity, and keep gunk from growing in your tank.

I don’t believe it is one of those things you will see improvement overnight. It’s not HP in a bottle but more of a long term plan to keep everything running like it was designed before the introduction of low sulfur diesel and the loss of lubricity that change caused.

As a personal note: I run their biokleen biocide but I use Stanadyne performance formula and stanadyne lubricity formula in my boat.

Power Service biokleen is absolutely amazing. I keep 6 bottles on hand and have treated many boats. It will milk the algae and then it into a fine black powder your filters can clean.
Click to expand...
OK and thanks for the insight. Calm waters to you...
 
Irie308 said:
Hello all, I’ve been trying to rectify a problem I’m having with my oil pressure reading at the helm on my star motor. I’ve already replaced the gauges on the dash to fix another issue so they are brand new. My oil pressure gauge at the helm has always worked intermittently but mostly it would sit at 0psi while the reading on the motor has been spot on. I recently replaced the oil pressure sensor with a new one from SBAR. This new one has 2 wire contacts compared to the old one that had 1. Per SBAR one needs a ground and it doesn’t matter which one. I swapped out the sensor yesterday now the gauge at the helm starts at 100psi at idle and goes down from there at cruise to around 60-70psi (only went for a 10 min cruise). It’s grounded to the grid heater btw. I’ve also swapped the wires to see if any change and none.
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Irie, I'm not able to help with this one but interested in the resolution. I have a discrepancy between the reading on the engine gauge and the helm ... I know what the difference is and keep an eye on it but wonder if your fix might provide insight.

/Tom
 
NotHerDecision said:
I follow Frank Webster’s school of fuel management.
Click to expand...

Me too.

NotHerDecision said:
Power Service is the maker of Diesel Kleen and they make BioKleen so you could effectively use these 2 products to accomplish the increase in cetane, add lubricity, and keep gunk from growing in your tank.
Click to expand...

This is what I use. My previous owner left me a case of Diesel Kleen, so I've been using it every fill up. And BioKleen is readily available, so that helps, too! I can't keep my tanks full all the time, so a biocide is necessary, especially in these warmer months.
 
Irie308 said:
Hello all, I’ve been trying to rectify a problem I’m having with my oil pressure reading at the helm on my star motor. I’ve already replaced the gauges on the dash to fix another issue so they are brand new. My oil pressure gauge at the helm has always worked intermittently but mostly it would sit at 0psi while the reading on the motor has been spot on. I recently replaced the oil pressure sensor with a new one from SBAR. This new one has 2 wire contacts compared to the old one that had 1. Per SBAR one needs a ground and it doesn’t matter which one. I swapped out the sensor yesterday now the gauge at the helm starts at 100psi at idle and goes down from there at cruise to around 60-70psi (only went for a 10 min cruise). It’s grounded to the grid heater btw. I’ve also swapped the wires to see if any change and none.
Click to expand...

This sounds like the readings are opposite? Meaning the gauge reading drops as the pressure increases?

I would double check the wiring at the gauge, you may have a ground and 12v backwards.

The single wire sensor opens the circuit without pressure. The higher the pressure, the resistance drops. If you were to ground the single pickup wire, the gauge should peg all the way high to 100lbs.

Check with SBMAR that the 2 wire reacts the same.
 
PMC said:
This sounds like the readings are opposite? Meaning the gauge reading drops as the pressure increases?

I would double check the wiring at the gauge, you may have a ground and 12v backwards.

The single wire sensor opens the circuit without pressure. The higher the pressure, the resistance drops. If you were to ground the single pickup wire, the gauge should peg all the way high to 100lbs.

Check with SBMAR that the 2 wire reacts the same.
Click to expand...
Thanks will double check the back of the gauges.
 
Irie308 said:
My oil pressure gauge at the helm has always worked intermittently but mostly it would sit at 0psi while the reading on the motor has been spot on.
Click to expand...

Did you ever confirm the cause of this behavior? I ask, because my port pressure gauge reads 0 at idle and sometimes at 6knots. It pops up to 50psi+ when on plane (and sometimes drops to 0 even then). The contacts at the gauge were recently checked, but not cleaned. So it's possible there's still a connectivity issue. What I'm wondering, though, is if this behavior is indicative of a bad sensor? I checked that the sensor is not suffering from a loose connection, but I haven't taken any readings on it yet. Thoughts?
 
I'm confused. I need to remove the elbow fitting attached to the big painted nut in the second picture. It slightly weeps fuel after turning off engine. We tried everything and we couldn't get it loose without fear of snapping the curved pipe. So I am going to remove the whole thing and put the nut in a vice. So I figure maybe I'll just replace it if I am removing it.

Well, the first picture shows the part callout on quickserve. Looks like I need a combination of items 2 and 3. And if it's really just a plug going into 2, then what's holding it onto the primer pump? In reality is it a banjo bolt and not a plug?

So I am not sure 1) how to remove the curved pipe/nut item and 2) what replacement part to order.
 

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Bill, I think the quickserve thing is a little confusing. The fitting is held onto the pump with a bolt that passes through the fitting. I'm not on the boat today but if memory serves me correct, you will see a more conventional looking banjo type fitting on the other side of the lift pump, this one you're dealing with is very similar. you should just need the elbow fitting and 2 new crush washers and the special bolt that passes through them. Just like the coolant fitting you had leaking on the bottom of the turbo. Next time down to the marina, I'll take a look to be sure.
 
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