420/44 DB Owners Club

We are experiencing a resonance from the galley fridge and was wondering if this is common? When the fridge compressor is running we get a resonance vibration which increases depending where you are in the boat. We notice it more at night, which we are becoming accustomed to but I'd like to have it whisper quiet. Anyone else have this issue and any solutions?
 
We experience the same phenomena, It's the original fridge so I'm waiting for it to die and when we replace it, look into how to get to run silently. I find myself turning the temp up at night to shut it up and then turn down to recover in the morning. Ill stay tuned to see what if anything you come up with.
CD
 
Carpediem44DB said:
We experience the same phenomena, It's the original fridge so I'm waiting for it to die and when we replace it, look into how to get to run silently. I find myself turning the temp up at night to shut it up and then turn down to recover in the morning. Ill stay tuned to see what if anything you come up with.
CD
Click to expand...

Same here....

Bennett
 
Good morning folks. Looking for some direction here. I was using my bow thruster yesterday when it suddenly quit. The green power light on the joystick went out. I assumed I tripped the fuse. Went to the main grey electric box in the bilge and found what looked like a tripped breaker. It WASN'T marked bow thruster and it was a double breaker. I reset it but still no power to the rocker switch or the control for the bow thruster. Searay said that is the only breaker. Is there another somewhere?
Thanks
 
There is a fuse on the Thruster Motor itself for the control side of the relay. I blew one out when paralleling it to my wireless remote during development.
Carpe Diem
 
Figured it out. Thanks to a much earlier post on the extremely informative Club Searay Sight!!
This is a 200 amp fuse just off of the batteries to the bow thruster. Mine was mounted on the bulkhead wall. Easy fix.
 
Irie308 said:
Good luck, i will say it started easy and got progressively harder when you enter the salon. All of the berths and heads went fine. Salon and valance (switch) area are the worst. I left the two above the stove as they would not budge.

Also note i replace the large domes in the cockpit with the same bulb (takes 2 each). That was another fun one to remove.
Click to expand...
Wanted to circle back on this as it may help someone trying to replace the 2 bulbs above the galley stove. I pretty much gave up on replacing them as the fixtures wouldn’t budge. Had a “ah ha” moment as we were leaving the boat for the night. The vinyl panel that boxes in the lights are removable! Who knew? I sure didn’t.

Another follow up to the cockpit dome lights. Found these after seeing it on a friends 52 DB. (Red, White and Blue non dimming)

https://store.marinebeam.com/red-white-blue-switchable-led-side-mount-g4-bulb/
 
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Ok, here's a question regarding one of everyone's favorite repair items!

The "Empty" light on my black water holding tank never goes out. It has been this way since I bought the boat. Half and full sensors / lights function properly. If I unplug the harness to the monitor system at the tank it does go out, with only the Power light remaining illuminated.

I have tried unscrewing the cap at the top of the individual sensor and jiggling it up and down (my goto fix for this problem typically) but no luck. 1/2 sensor flickers when I jiggle the respective sensor...the full sensor is not removable.

I see the half sensor was replaced at some point by the previous owner.

I am going to replace either the one sensor, or the entire module, and my question is related to how to get the sensor rod(s) in and out with so little overhead clearance. How does one do it? The sensor rods are flexible. Do you just bend them to get them into place?

If anyone has done this replacement, your advice would be great!
 
bajturner said:
Ok, here's a question regarding one of everyone's favorite repair items!

The "Empty" light on my black water holding tank never goes out. It has been this way since I bought the boat. Half and full sensors / lights function properly. If I unplug the harness to the monitor system at the tank it does go out, with only the Power light remaining illuminated.

I have tried unscrewing the cap at the top of the individual sensor and jiggling it up and down (my goto fix for this problem typically) but no luck. 1/2 sensor flickers when I jiggle the respective sensor...the full sensor is not removable.

I see the half sensor was replaced at some point by the previous owner.

I am going to replace either the one sensor, or the entire module, and my question is related to how to get the sensor rod(s) in and out with so little overhead clearance. How does one do it? The sensor rods are flexible. Do you just bend them to get them into place?

If anyone has done this replacement, your advice would be great!
Click to expand...

I did not replace mine, but I removed the cap with the probes attached and cleaned them up on the dock. The end of the probes have little “C” clips on them and the floats come off. used some Spray Nine, made them look brand new, and have never had another problem. Using Norflex Digestor helps as well.

Bennett
 
bbwhitejr said:
I did not replace mine, but I removed the cap with the probes attached and cleaned them up on the dock. The end of the probes have little “C” clips on them and the floats come off. used some Spray Nine, made them look brand new, and have never had another problem. Using Norflex Digestor helps as well.

Bennett
Click to expand...

Thanks Bennett.

I will take the same approach. Can you share your method of removal? There isntinearly enough headroom above the tank to get the longer probes out, even with angling the out.

Did you bend them?

Brian
 
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Added a Sat TV attenna over the winter. Tried to use existing RG6 cable left over from bridge TV but I'm not getting a clean signal. Need to run a new coax from bridge arch to the stereo cabinet. I've had the starboard panels and bolsters off and I can see where the existing cables disappear, but I've had no luck getting a fish tape through to pull a new cable. Any advice? I've not tried removing the cabinet, is that the trick?
 
sb in gp said:
Added a Sat TV attenna over the winter. Tried to use existing RG6 cable left over from bridge TV but I'm not getting a clean signal. Need to run a new coax from bridge arch to the stereo cabinet. I've had the starboard panels and bolsters off and I can see where the existing cables disappear, but I've had no luck getting a fish tape through to pull a new cable. Any advice? I've not tried removing the cabinet, is that the trick?
Click to expand...
If you're referring to the fiberglass cabinet on the bridge, yes. You will have to get to the access panel behind it. I find it easier to run the cable up from the salon rather than down.
 
Irie308 said:
If you're referring to the fiberglass cabinet on the bridge, yes. You will have to get to the access panel behind it. I find it easier to run the cable up from the salon rather than down.
Click to expand...
Thank you, I'll work on it this weekend and report back.
 
Hi All, have really been getting to know our DB and we are loving it. However there are a couple things I wanted to see if other have encountered. first, when I start fueling up i notice that we get some spillage out the vents. It tappers off to just a few drips afterword but i have to keep a rag under the vent to catch the fuel when fueling.

Second, I find the latch to the salon door to be a pia to open. Primarily because you have to get a few fingers in there then pull downwards then slide to open. All with the strength of a few fingers. I find younger kids have a tough time with this and i can see myself developing arthritis the way the latch mechanism works. I've noticed on new models there is a bar across the door which you could grab to slide but we don't have one on the 04. Wondering if anyone has made any mods to this.
 
Irie308 said:
Hi All, have really been getting to know our DB and we are loving it. However there are a couple things I wanted to see if other have encountered. first, when I start fueling up i notice that we get some spillage out the vents. It tappers off to just a few drips afterword but i have to keep a rag under the vent to catch the fuel when fueling.

Second, I find the latch to the salon door to be a pia to open. Primarily because you have to get a few fingers in there then pull downwards then slide to open. All with the strength of a few fingers. I find younger kids have a tough time with this and i can see myself developing arthritis the way the latch mechanism works. I've noticed on new models there is a bar across the door which you could grab to slide but we don't have one on the 04. Wondering if anyone has made any mods to this.
Click to expand...

My DB also spits fuel out the air vent on fueling. Talked to Frank Webster about this a while back and the conclusion was: when you top off a tank some fuel ends up sitting in a sag in the air vent line. Then when air is passing through the vent during fueling its spits the small amount of fuel out the vent hole. I believe this is a design flaw in that the vent line should not have a sag in it that holds fuel. I've resorted to having a no-spill fuel catching bottle on the boat. Similar to this picture, but mine has suction cups that attach to the side of the boat. Works great, but I think the company stopped selling them.

This could be corrected if you could get to the vent hose and strap it up somehow and remove the sag, I'm not sure how you get to it.

Another thought I had was blowing a burst of air back through the vent after fueling to send the extra fuel back into the tank.

Would love to hear other ideas too.

Oh, and I hate that latch too. It is counter-intuitive to press down first and then pull the door, so almost nobody can use it consistently except me (including the wife with 5 years experience with it).
 

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I get maybe 2-tablespoons of fuel out of each vent when it bubbles up the fill pipe.

As for the door, there is some adjustment in the stationary part of the latch. However, it is still a pain. We have made it a habit to push the door closed, but not to close it enough to latch unless we are running or leaving the boat. It will close tight, but not latch.

Bennett
 
Looking to add an anchor wash pump that is plumped to use sea water (vs from the fresh water tank). Wondering if anyone has added this mod and where you mounted the pump as well as the electrical connections (to a separate switch, where to pull power from).
 
Tomco said:
Looking to add an anchor wash pump that is plumped to use sea water (vs from the fresh water tank). Wondering if anyone has added this mod and where you mounted the pump as well as the electrical connections (to a separate switch, where to pull power from).
Click to expand...

Hey Tom,
I have a design for this but I haven't yet implemented it. Maybe later this summer. Plan is to use the same seacock and strainer as the A/C pickup. A T would be with a one-way valve just upstream of it on the output of the strainer, to prevent the washdown pump from potentially taking the prime from the A/C pump, and a filter. Washdown pump can go in a number of locations on the starboard side near the A/C pump and thruster batteries.

Plan is for the output of the pump to be simply plumbed to a new raw water spigot in the rear locker beside the freshwater spigot. An addition to the plan would be to T off the output and run a raw water line to area of the freshwater distribution manifold under the galley floor. From there, the anchor locker feed can be accessed. Toilets could also be converted to raw water. A nice design would be 3-way valves allowing the toilets to be fresh/raw selectable. You would need to safeguard against raw water being able to contaminate the freshwater system. Properly running a water pipe through the engine room and through the firewall is not a trivial exercise though.

Electrical plan was to add a new port side DC breaker in the main DC breaker panel in the engine room (same side as cabin, and the bank I have added two additional batteries to) using the empty accessory slot, and a switch somewhere in the cockpit (matched to the cockpit light switches). They are Carling breakers, I believe...would use 20A as with the freshwater pump. I would rather a switch/breaker in an unused slot of of the cabin Main DC Distribution panel but it complicates the wire routing a fair bit. Not sure...may still go this route. You don't need a separate switch then. It would run like the freshwater pump.

Curious about your and others' thoughts on this plan...

Brian
 
So I have been on a quest to have a completely dry engine room and bilge. This is a quest I had on my previous two boats as well. It took about 3 seasons of new ownership on each of them, but finally got there.

I am on my second season with this boat, and I am almost there. One nagging bit of water has still been showing-up under the starboard engine. Sometimes some rusty water, sometimes just a rusty stain left by evaporated water. After a lot of quality time in the engine room with a flashlight, I have found the culprit!

It is coming from the salon A/C condensate drain. Immediately below the tray is an elbow that connects to a drain hose that runs all the way fore to the sump. The elbow has a steady drip that lands on top of the starboard fuel tank then makes its way between multiple stringer channels, then under the engine. I believe it is the threaded elbow that is leaking, not the fitting in the floor (pretty sure), nor the hose connection to the elbow (quite sure).

Easy to see once you find it. Impossible to reach. Has anyone serviced this area, and if so, how did you get at it? By lying on my back on top of the starboard engine, with my head squeezed between the underside of the cockpit floor and the turbo, I can get my right hand on it. No way I can do anything though.

I really want to fix this. It seems to be the only source of any water whatsoever in my engine room at this point.

By the way, did you 420/44DB owners know that the walkway between the engines is hollow and water can make its way in there? I was able to get the drawings from Sea Ray:

upload_2019-7-15_12-27-23.png


I added an access hatch to make sure it stays dry.
 
I have the same "rusty-brown" water shows up under my port engine. Evaporates and leaves a stain that is very easy to clean up, but I plan to go on a hunt to find it. I have had this issue for a while. Starboard side is dry as a bone as is the rest of my bilge. At most I might get a cup of water out from under the port engine....

Bennett
 
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