Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Hi guys, hoping someone could give me some insight. I purchased a 2006 280 with the single 496...360hrs. Boat tested great where purchased. Tried to start it yesterday and the starter engaged but wouldn’t turn over and made a loud smacking noise. Tried one more time and the same. Starter now just spins. Oil is clean, batteries are new. I’m just sick that I might have a major and expensive problem. Freshwater boat. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

When you say spins do you mean the engine turns over but does not fire, or that you can hear the starter motor spinning but the engine does not turn over? The former condition has a pretty complicated logic tree, the latter condition is pretty simple; a bad starter motor.

A bad starter motor is good and bad news. The starter was less than $200.00 when I bought a replacement five years ago. Why I bought the starter is kind of the bad news. At the time the engine was out of the boat having a new transom assembly installed. The service manager told me if the existing starter ever went in the future, I would be on my own as he had no intention of ever pulling my 496 out of our boat again. Basically the 496 is a monster. It has to off the mounts and lifted a couple feet at a minimum to get access to the starter. But because of the space (or lack of it) working on it in the boat is grossly unsafe. So it has to come all the way out.
 
After more reading and correcting design mistakes, looks like I will have to put the membrane (3.5" x 40") in the transom locker if able. Turns out, I'm unable to put the membrane in the engine bay due it can get damaged above 113F Degrees.

I'm currently traveling and won't be back home to work on boat until June. I'm trying to get all the planning done and order the system prior to my return. I'll be making a video of the install and the operation once done.

Does anyone know the width of the transom locker? I need about 45" to safely install the membrane and the end fittings.

I returned home from my tdy and started building my fresh water system.
I’ve located the 40” membrane in the transom locker. Had to remove the transom water hose on the side to insert it. I still have to drill 3 holes for hoses, the pressure washer fits nicely on per side beside water tank.
I still have to run 4 sets of wires from helm to engine bay. 3 sets of dc. 1 ac wire.
I used the wooden table holder as the framework to mount the priming pump, solenoids and water filters with custom pvc piping all to fit on the board so I can easily reinstall it in engine bay
I hope to have everything completed this weekend with video.
If anyone’s interested in having unlimited fresh water, I’ll post primary parts list.
Also, added benefit. Since I am tying into fresh water tank to flush membrane, I’ll also be able to use full water tank and pressure washer to hose down top of boat! Added benefit. At 1.5 gpm I will get about 16 minutes before tank runs dry. Just need another hose!

More to follow.
 
Does anyone have a good source on the ignition switch at the helm? I've found ones that states OFF-ON-ON but the last ON should spring back and I'm not sure the ones I've found online does that
Mine is a bit glitchy, the beep doesn't always sound the switch is pushed to the first stop, sometimes I have to wiggle the switch somewhat.
 
I returned home from my tdy and started building my fresh water system.
I’ve located the 40” membrane in the transom locker. Had to remove the transom water hose on the side to insert it. I still have to drill 3 holes for hoses, the pressure washer fits nicely on per side beside water tank.
I still have to run 4 sets of wires from helm to engine bay. 3 sets of dc. 1 ac wire.
I used the wooden table holder as the framework to mount the priming pump, solenoids and water filters with custom pvc piping all to fit on the board so I can easily reinstall it in engine bay
I hope to have everything completed this weekend with video.
If anyone’s interested in having unlimited fresh water, I’ll post primary parts list.
Also, added benefit. Since I am tying into fresh water tank to flush membrane, I’ll also be able to use full water tank and pressure washer to hose down top of boat! Added benefit. At 1.5 gpm I will get about 16 minutes before tank runs dry. Just need another hose!

More to follow.

The install is taking longer than I expected.
To install water meter gauge on dashboard, pull wires from helm computer, I had to take the throttle housing dash completely off to access all the wires behind.
Also, the computer listed ACC1 from the helm but couldn't find the wire. I had to remove the computer faceplate and the circuit board listed "depth". I found the red wire with "depth" on it and it tested positive for switch action.
ACC 1 is on topside computer. FWD Accessory is also there (couldn't find vent wire so using FWD Accessory for solenoids) and ACC 2 is on the engine bay computer which I still have to run wires.

My water intake valve in stern compartment was not hooked up so I used the drill hose to run high pressure line into membrane. It fits great once drilled through the false wall.

I did not take any video or photos yet just because I've been so busy trying to install. I will show final install in video once done this week, just in time for 4 July beach time and post when able. This project is definitely time consuming!
 
So I noticed this past weekend that the red and green nav lights are very underwhelming...any easy swaps to new ones? (2003)

And is there a trick to getting at the bulbs? I seem to remember undoing the screw on the top and that didn't let me in.
 
Last edited:
How do you guys install cockpit cover? Do you climb up the bow, snap at the bottom of windshield and climb back down? My local canvas guy was saying there is easier way to install it without climbing over.

My cockpit cover is coming to end of life and need new one. I was asking local canvas guy to make new one that snap on top of windshield instead of bottom to avoid climbing over. But he said don’t do on top since AZ sun really kill it inside. Any suggestions? By the way, $1000 for new Sunbrella cover reasonable with 10 years warranty?

Thanks!
 
How do you guys install cockpit cover? Do you climb up the bow, snap at the bottom of windshield and climb back down? My local canvas guy was saying there is easier way to install it without climbing over.

My cockpit cover is coming to end of life and need new one. I was asking local canvas guy to make new one that snap on top of windshield instead of bottom to avoid climbing over. But he said don’t do on top since AZ sun really kill it inside. Any suggestions? By the way, $1000 for new Sunbrella cover reasonable with 10 years warranty?

Thanks!
Hi rahula, I'm not sure about AZ pricing but I paid $1,500 here in NJ. But my guy had to install snaps along the bottom of the windshield since there were none. Suns not nearly as strong here but the mooring cover was one of my first purchases since getting this boat in the fall. My cushions, deck and helm are in like new condition and I want to try keeping it that way. I highly suggest going over the windshield. Our cover is on at all time unless we are using the boat. Even when were on the hook I put the helm cover on
 
Last edited:
Hi rahula,I'm not sure about AS pricing but I paid $1,500 here in NJ. But my guy had to install snaps along the bottom of the windshield since there were none. Suns not nearly as strong here but the mooring cover was one of my first purchases since getting this boat in the fall. The interior is in like new condition and I want to try keeping it that way. I highly suggest going over The windshield. The cover is on at all times unless we are using it. Even when were on the hook I put the helm cover on
Thanks! How do you put yours on? Do you climb up to bow and etc? Or is there a secret to do it by just overreaching over windshield?
 
When we had our 260DA, I am tall enough to just reach over the windshield and snap it. Always start at the windshield and work toward the rear. When removing it, roll from the rear to the front and then just reverse the process when reinstalling.

Bennett
 
I climbed over the windshield and snapped it on then jumped off the bow and reboarded to finish. This was a PIA. On my 330DA the cover snaps to the top of the windshield. Much easier. You may want to have the canvas guy make a dashboard cover to protect from the sun if you decide to go with snaps on the top of the windshield.
 
Thanks! How do you put yours on? Do you climb up to bow and etc? Or is there a secret to do it by just overreaching over windshield?
I have snaps on the top of the windshield. The center unit is the last to go on - that way i can reach both front side curtains. Then on the center one I zip it on top and partially zip the sides. This enables me to snap it to the windshield without going on the bow. Once snapped I just finish zipping the sides.
 
Hello all,

2004 280 DA Single 8.1

I am having trouble getting a bite with the screws that hold in the top cabin entry step. They are screwed into the bulkhead between the main cabin and the aft sleeping area and are a little port of center near the garbage can. This step seems to be supported only one time along the hinge side and is squeaky and slightly loose on the corner nearest the head / helm. I could go to a larger screw or move the "L" bracket over an inch but am not sure what is behind that bulkhead. It seems to be hollow on the aft side where the mid berth is but I was only able to locate one screw through the bulkhead near where the snap for the privacy curtain attaches. I searched the forum (and read the whole thing...more than a year ago) but could not find any mention of shoring up this step.

Any help is appreciated.

Eric
 
Thanks! How do you put yours on? Do you climb up to bow and etc? Or is there a secret to do it by just overreaching over windshield?
I'm sure everyone has their own variations of whatever works best for them but for me with my cover that goes over the windshield.....I start on the port side two snaps up from the arch, then just continue snapping as I kneel up on the walk thru and reach as far as posdible over the helm(I dont kneel on the dash) then i finish up to the arch on starbord side. I then finish those two snaps i left off on port side in front of arch(I leave them off until now so its not a tight fit as im working around the helm. Then i easily finish the rest behind the arch
 
How do you guys install cockpit cover? Do you climb up the bow, snap at the bottom of windshield and climb back down? My local canvas guy was saying there is easier way to install it without climbing over.

My cockpit cover is coming to end of life and need new one. I was asking local canvas guy to make new one that snap on top of windshield instead of bottom to avoid climbing over. But he said don’t do on top since AZ sun really kill it inside. Any suggestions? By the way, $1000 for new Sunbrella cover reasonable with 10 years warranty?

Thanks!

I just reach over the windshield and begin with the snaps at the bottom of the windshield, starting in the center and working outward.

I would stick with cover that goes over the windshield and most of the purpose of having the cover is to keep the sun out and the cockpit from oxidizing.

I just bought a new Sunbrella cockpit cover from Great Lakes Boat Top (OEM manufacturer) during their annual spring 20% off sale and paid $720.00 for a black one. I think they usually have a fall sale also.
 
Aft wash down hose, can anyone help on how to replace it. I did see the part on flounder pounder. It say there “easy installation”. Thanks

It would be easy. Inside your transom locker, there is a removable panel on the starboard side with (I think) 3 phillips oval head screws. Just remove those and then remove that panel. The hose and entire assembly is right there.
 
Problem: You buy a boat whose previous owner had a new stereo installed (A Clarion CMD8) that isn’t compatible with the original stereo’s wired remote at the helm.
Solution: You buy the new remote.
New Problem: The new remote requires an eight wire cable but the installed cable is six wire.
Solution: You buy the eight wire cable.
New Problem: The new cable won’t reach the helm location of the old remote. And, even if it did, you don’t feel like tearing apart the boat to run the cable all the way to the helm.
Separate but related problem: The original VHF radio needs to be replaced and you need somewhere to hang the mic.
Other separate but related problem: you don’t want your daughter reaching in front of you to change the station, music, or volume, but you need to quickly and easily silence distracting noise when necessary.
Solution to all of the above problems: See pics
4E64ACEB-B552-4B0C-B1E0-3AE9C44A14DC.jpeg EF889862-AF54-42BA-83C6-19FBB25FACC6.jpeg
 
Problem: You buy a boat whose previous owner had a new stereo installed (A Clarion CMD8) that isn’t compatible with the original stereo’s wired remote at the helm.
Solution: You buy the new remote.
New Problem: The new remote requires an eight wire cable but the installed cable is six wire.
Solution: You buy the eight wire cable.
New Problem: The new cable won’t reach the helm location of the old remote. And, even if it did, you don’t feel like tearing apart the boat to run the cable all the way to the helm.
Separate but related problem: The original VHF radio needs to be replaced and you need somewhere to hang the mic.
Other separate but related problem: you don’t want your daughter reaching in front of you to change the station, music, or volume, but you need to quickly and easily silence distracting noise when necessary.
Solution to all of the above problems: See pics
View attachment 72266 View attachment 72268
Not sure why the second pic uploaded upside down, but running the new cable was pretty easy and non-invasive surgically speaking.
 
Problem: You buy a boat whose previous owner had a new stereo installed (A Clarion CMD8) that isn’t compatible with the original stereo’s wired remote at the helm.
Solution: You buy the new remote.
New Problem: The new remote requires an eight wire cable but the installed cable is six wire.
Solution: You buy the eight wire cable.
New Problem: The new cable won’t reach the helm location of the old remote. And, even if it did, you don’t feel like tearing apart the boat to run the cable all the way to the helm.
Separate but related problem: The original VHF radio needs to be replaced and you need somewhere to hang the mic.
Other separate but related problem: you don’t want your daughter reaching in front of you to change the station, music, or volume, but you need to quickly and easily silence distracting noise when necessary.
Solution to all of the above problems: See pics
View attachment 72266 View attachment 72268

could you change out the radio for a new one that has bluetooth connection? this way you can control it with your phone or a bluetooth remote
 
So I noticed this past weekend that the red and green nav lights are very underwhelming...any easy swaps to new ones? (2003)

And is there a trick to getting at the bulbs? I seem to remember undoing the screw on the top and that didn't let me in.


Nobody replaced their Nav light bulbs recently? Was hoping to order replacement bulbs to have on hand when I try to get the covers off...
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,942
Messages
1,422,701
Members
60,927
Latest member
Jaguar65
Back
Top