410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

I thought I'd share a couple thoughts/tips for anyone needing to replace your battery chargers in the future.

1.) The Promariner ProNautic P 40Amp appears to be the closest equivalent to our 90's vintage chargers. Of course other brands are available too.
2.) The mounting holes will in no way match the original charger. You'll need a drill and screws
3.) The bonding wire will not reach the new charger, you will have to add 6" +/- of heavy gauge wire
4.) Super pro tip (humor here) - The battery switches do NOT remove all 12V power from the leads at the charger
5.) Install is quite straight forward, about an hour, even with a few minutes baked in to find the AC Converter Breakers behind the battery switch plate panel....
 
Stee6043 said:
I thought I'd share a couple thoughts/tips for anyone needing to replace your battery chargers in the future.

1.) The Promariner ProNautic P 40Amp appears to be the closest equivalent to our 90's vintage chargers. Of course other brands are available too.
2.) The mounting holes will in no way match the original charger. You'll need a drill and screws
3.) The bonding wire will not reach the new charger, you will have to add 6" +/- of heavy gauge wire
4.) Super pro tip (humor here) - The battery switches do NOT remove all 12V power from the leads at the charger
5.) Install is quite straight forward, about an hour, even with a few minutes baked in to find the AC Converter Breakers behind the battery switch plate panel....
Click to expand...

Thanks Stee6043, I hope I never have to read this again.:D:D:D
 
Stee6043 said:
I thought I'd share a couple thoughts/tips for anyone needing to replace your battery chargers in the future.

5.) Install is quite straight forward, about an hour, even with a few minutes baked in to find the AC Converter Breakers behind the battery switch plate panel....
Click to expand...

What AC converter breaker behind panel? I thought the only beaker was at the main panel? Interesting...
 
Stee6043 said:
I thought I'd share a couple thoughts/tips for anyone needing to replace your battery chargers in the future.

1.) The Promariner ProNautic P 40Amp appears to be the closest equivalent to our 90's vintage chargers. Of course other brands are available too.
2.) The mounting holes will in no way match the original charger. You'll need a drill and screws
3.) The bonding wire will not reach the new charger, you will have to add 6" +/- of heavy gauge wire
4.) Super pro tip (humor here) - The battery switches do NOT remove all 12V power from the leads at the charger
5.) Install is quite straight forward, about an hour, even with a few minutes baked in to find the AC Converter Breakers behind the battery switch plate panel....
Click to expand...
I did this exact install 2 weeks ago.

My top mounting holes were close enough to the original that I drilled the holes in the new unit about a 1/8" wider each and was able to use the original holes and screws. For the bottoms I have to drill new holes.

+1 that the battery switches dont cut off the power. If you happen to do this without disconnecting the batteries and you happen to accidentally touch something that sparks, there are 3 50a breakers on a black box when you remove the panel that has the battery switches. One of those may have to be reset...

+1 on extending the green ground.
 
Stee6043 said:
I thought I'd share a couple thoughts/tips for anyone needing to replace your battery chargers in the future.

1.) The Promariner ProNautic P 40Amp appears to be the closest equivalent to our 90's vintage chargers. Of course other brands are available too.
2.) The mounting holes will in no way match the original charger. You'll need a drill and screws
3.) The bonding wire will not reach the new charger, you will have to add 6" +/- of heavy gauge wire
4.) Super pro tip (humor here) - The battery switches do NOT remove all 12V power from the leads at the charger
5.) Install is quite straight forward, about an hour, even with a few minutes baked in to find the AC Converter Breakers behind the battery switch plate panel....
Click to expand...

I can not believe that you and I did the EXACT same job on the exact same morning!! So I'll add to your list: 22yr old electrical tape is impossible to clean up, the temperature sensor on the ProNautic is exactly long enough to run through the cable organizer with less than an inch to spare, and the old charger is incredibly top heavy, so be careful with where you choose to lay it down.
 
yobub said:
I did this exact install 2 weeks ago.

My top mounting holes were close enough to the original that I drilled the holes in the new unit about a 1/8" wider each and was able to use the original holes and screws. For the bottoms I have to drill new holes.

+1 that the battery switches dont cut off the power. If you happen to do this without disconnecting the batteries and you happen to accidentally touch something that sparks, there are 3 50a breakers on a black box when you remove the panel that has the battery switches. One of those may have to be reset...

+1 on extending the green ground.
Click to expand...

Same exact experience for me; utilized the top mounting holes and original screws. Then I covered the leads with electrical tape to prevent them from contacting anything conductive. And I pulled the entire green ground out of the cable organizer and made a shorter run for it across the wall; this was easier than splicing and extending it.
 
Ben1553 said:
Humph....I hate to be rude, but what was the round about price on that job?
Click to expand...
It was about $8K with a screen for the cabin door, windshield screen and front vinyl blackout included.
 
Z-Worthy said:
Same exact experience for me; utilized the top mounting holes and original screws. Then I covered the leads with electrical tape to prevent them from contacting anything conductive. And I pulled the entire green ground out of the cable organizer and made a shorter run for it across the wall; this was easier than splicing and extending it.
Click to expand...

Maybe I was a bit hasty with the top screws! Nice to see we are all investing in this project. Mines been running like a champ.

Confession - I did not connect the thermal cutoff lead. It’s on my list to get back down there, this week maybe.
 
So I saw a 410DA listed for sale the other day and one of the pics was of the microwave. The cabinet was open, with the doors slid in next to the each side of the microwave. Now, I've had my 410DA eight years and I never noticed the ability to do this. So I'm on the boat for the long weekend and give it a try. But I'm not having any luck. I see what appear to be tracks on both sides but I can't get the hinges to slide to the sides. Am I missing something obvious?
 
THJeff said:
So I saw a 410DA listed for sale the other day and one of the pics was of the microwave. The cabinet was open, with the doors slid in next to the each side of the microwave. Now, I've had my 410DA eight years and I never noticed the ability to do this. So I'm on the boat for the long weekend and give it a try. But I'm not having any luck. I see what appear to be tracks on both sides but I can't get the hinges to slide to the sides. Am I missing something obvious?
Click to expand...

Rusted? With the door open, you should be able to push it in unless something is restricting it.
 
Learn something new every day......

C7CB587A-7C18-4401-8A1D-96C31D8CF661.jpeg
 
They also slide back where the coffee maker is in my boat.
 
Last edited:
dtfeld said:
They also slide back where the coffee maker is n my boat.
Click to expand...

Wow! You still have the coffee maker. Mine was long gone when I got my boat.
We use a single serve Kuerig.
 
JVM225 said:
There isn’t typical tracks visible on mine. The microwave is mounted on a black board that is secured to the inside of the cabinet with screws from underneath.
There is a space on either side of that board between it and the side walls of the cabinet just wide enough for the doors to slide back.
I had to line mine up and give them a bit of a blow with my hand at first to get them to go in.
Seemed like it was the first time they were ever moved in.
Click to expand...
Right, your description for the microwave is the same as mine. But for the coffee maker, it's different. They look more stationary and the same as all the other cabinet hinges.
 
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