420 DA Thread

One thing that that long skinny storage spot behind the drivers seat is good for is a beach umbrella and and accessories. Maybe a few noodles.

I pretty well keep all the same items as the rest of you in the other spots.

I definitely don't keep my canvas there as I'd worry about the moisture. But perhaps not as much as I'd worry about the Hatteras guy taking off
 
One thing that that long skinny storage spot behind the drivers seat is good for is a beach umbrella and and accessories. Maybe a few noodles.

I pretty well keep all the same items as the rest of you in the other spots.

I definitely don't keep my canvas there as I'd worry about the moisture. But perhaps not as much as I'd worry about the Hatteras guy taking off

The Hatteras will need to float away. Engines haven't been run in ???? :)
 
What Buyajet said, except the part about a Hatteras.

That rear seat is such a PITA to move. The table always seems to be in the way.

First world problems.

Table that folds perfect into a small square but very useful. When opened we sit/eat four peeps. $350 and they ship overnight 2-day from the U.K.
Nautic Star Cube
Select Size: 486mm/972mm x 500mm 19.13"/38.27" x 19.7
https://www.marineteak.co.uk/folding--sliding-teak-tables/nautic-star-cube-662
table.JPG
 
Table that folds perfect into a small square but very useful. When opened we sit/eat four peeps. $350 and they ship overnight 2-day from the U.K.
Nautic Star Cube
Select Size: 486mm/972mm x 500mm 19.13"/38.27" x 19.7
https://www.marineteak.co.uk/folding--sliding-teak-tables/nautic-star-cube-662
View attachment 71191

I have looked at those tables and for the $ they are very nice. I take it your pleased with the durability and styling of it? Also there are a lot of designs to choose from which is nice. A friend of mine on the dock is looking at custom tables that are amazing with epoxy river inserts, but damn 3K is a lot to spend on a table - custom or not!!
 
I have looked at those tables and for the $ they are very nice. I take it your pleased with the durability and styling of it? Also there are a lot of designs to choose from which is nice. A friend of mine on the dock is looking at custom tables that are amazing with epoxy river inserts, but damn 3K is a lot to spend on a table - custom or not!!
Yes, really happy with the quality and the way it gets out of the way when folded
 
I have looked at those tables and for the $ they are very nice. I take it your pleased with the durability and styling of it? Also there are a lot of designs to choose from which is nice. A friend of mine on the dock is looking at custom tables that are amazing with epoxy river inserts, but damn 3K is a lot to spend on a table - custom or not!!

I like that a lot better than the factory Fiberglass one.
What are the dimensions of that table when it is fully opened?
 
I like that a lot better than the factory Fiberglass one.
What are the dimensions of that table when it is fully opened?
I’m away for the weekend. It comes in different sizes. Click the link and it will take you to the right place.
 
I just replaced my old factory fiberglass table with this teak table I purchased at Defender.com. Took the base for post off the old table. They recommend centering the base for the post, I offset mine to give better setting in the corner and I can twist it the other way.
 

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I just replaced my old factory fiberglass table with this teak table I purchased at Defender.com. Took the base for post off the old table. They recommend centering the base for the post, I offset mine to give better setting in the corner and I can twist it the other way.

That looks good, but I think a table that can somehow be expanded might make more sense for the way we use the boat. Especially since there is no dinette in the cabin.
My problems with the factory table are that the plain fiberglass isn’t all that attractive, it’s not big enough for 4 people to sit and have a meal at, they shoved it all the way over to the starboard side and it can only be used fore and aft.
I had considered moving the fiberglass base more centered so I could get a bigger table that runs port to starboard and having the deck repaired where the old base is but I also find that I sometimes use the lounger (shorter leg and filler on top of table) and don’t want to give that up.
I don’t have the woodworking skills necessary to build a nice looking free standing base.
It may just come down to getting some kind of nice looking folding table that I can keep in the shed at my dock and only take along for the times where we want to have a full meal for 4.
I can put it in the aft cabin until we get where we’re going to and then set it up in the cockpit.
 
SHOWER SUMP / GREY WATER REPAIR

View attachment 70935

After taking the boat to Catalina Island over Memorial Day weekend with my son & four of his friends I used the shower in the boat. I noticed the drain was a little slow draining, and later lifted the floor hatch and noticed the shower sump box was full (overflowing to the bilge) with nasty shower water and the pump was not going on.

Here are my steps to diagnosing / repairing:

1) Removed the wing nuts / cover from the sump box.

2) Manually emptied the nasty shower water.

3) Tried to manually activate the float switch to no effect.

4) Checked the wiring bundle (pictured at bottom of the screen) and one of the wires came loose from the butt connectors (where two wires joined in with one wire).

5) I temporarily stuck the wire back in and tried again to manually activate the float switch and it still didn't work.

6) I bypassed the float switch and the pump came on right away and started pumping out water.

7) I turned off the "Sump Pump #1" breaker at the DC Breaker Panel

8) I cut all the positive wires away from the pump and float switch and removed the float switch from the box (it had come loose anyway and had kind of been floating around in the shower water).

9) I checked the float switch with a multimeter and still when manually activating the switch there still was no connection.

10) Went to West Marine and bought a replacement float switch (same model and size as the old one). I also bought new heat shrink butt connectors, including a step down butt connector for where two wires joined with a single wire.

11) Tested the new float switch with the multimeter and confirmed when activated that the float switch closed the connection.

12) Installed the float switch into the sump box. NOTE: The screw holes in the sump box were slightly too close together to attach screws at both ends of the float switch. This was probably why the old switch eventually came loose. I tightened the screw on the side of the switch where the wiring comes out of the float switch as much as possible, and left the other side unbolted.

12) There were three wires coming from the boat wiring to the sump box: 1) Black 2) Brown 3) Brown w/ Orange Stripe.

13) I consulted Section 6 of the Sea Ray Owners manual - DC Wiring Schematic 6.29.1 and confirmed:
Black: Ground (323-14) -> To Ground
Brown: (324-16) -> To SeaRay Systems Monitor
Brown/Orange: (322-14) -> To Sump Pump #1 Breaker on Engine Room DC Panel (Note Sump Pump #2 Breaker on panel is not in use according to wiring diagram.)

14) Rewired into three butt connectors:
Negative from pump -> Black Ground (323-14)
Positive from pump -> Float switch wire #1 + Brown/SeaRay Systems Monitor Wire (Using step down butt connector)
Float switch wire #2 -> Brown/Orange (322-14) wire going to breaker panel.

15) Turned back on breaker and confirmed the pump now activated when I filled up the grey water box.

16) Used a heat source to shrink down the covering on all the butt connectors.

17) Used zip ties to secure the wiring bundle.

QUESTIONS FOR CSR:
- Any recommendations for cleaning out the grey water sump box?
- Any body else run into a problem where the float switch doesn't match the holes in the sump box? If so what did you do?

Hi all again,

I expended lots of elbow grease cleaning up the inside and outside of the sump box. Here are before and after pictures:

Screen Shot 2019-06-16 at 2.49.59 PM.png
Screen Shot 2019-06-16 at 2.48.21 PM.png


Not clean enough to drink out of ... but clean enough for it's intended purpose. Going forward I plan to do a regular cleaning whenever we spend the weekend on the boat and use the shower (only use the shower a few times a year).
 
Hi all again,

I expended lots of elbow grease cleaning up the inside and outside of the sump box. Here are before and after pictures:

View attachment 71379 View attachment 71380

Not clean enough to drink out of ... but clean enough for it's intended purpose. Going forward I plan to do a regular cleaning whenever we spend the weekend on the boat and use the shower (only use the shower a few times a year).

Use body wash instead of soap and you’ll slow down the buildup in there.
 
I found my cockpit table was too big and always in the way whether accessing the seats or accessing the starboard step to get up on a dock. I didn't want to completely remove the table and have nothing so I bought a 24" round Sea Ray fiberglass table with 4 drink holders from one of their smaller boats. It fits on the same post as the original and looks factory.

I leave the little one in place unless we're going to eat back there and then it's easy to pull the regular table from it's storage under the captains companion seat and switch them out.

You can kind of see it in my signature picture.
 
9FA36BA1-63CF-429E-A1E6-6EB9DAE4F993.jpeg 00E679A6-D419-49EE-9596-ACECD2B88FEB.jpeg 19555EA5-F292-4B41-A5B6-41E17E629517.jpeg So here is mine folded. I can still get around it if starboard side is folded in. Excuse iPhone orientation.
 
Like that for a cocktail table. Where did you buy the table and piece underneath that goes in to the stock pole?
 

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