OFFICIAL 350/370 DA Thread (2008 or newer)

FYI- I googled for 2008 clarion amps and there where only 2 made, and by the dimensions I figured out it is an APX490M. 4 channel 720W amp. it's funny how the specs say slightly smaller Wattage (640W) and then it shows 4 x 90W at 4 ohms and 180x 4 @ 2 ohms. I know my new speakers are 4 ohm and I think the Clarion ones on the boat already are 4 ohm too. like I said earlier, it appears there is another amp (albeit small) or just the head unit is driving the 4 cabin speakers because they kept playing when I unplugged the amp in back. so now I have 2 big (in my opinion) 4 ch amps for 8 channels total. I want the fader to work so I'll use the "front" RCA's for the cabin 4 speakers and the "rear" for cockpit and transom. I'll leave the non-fade unhooked. right now my non-fade is for rear and the "rear" RCA is unhooked,,, so I can never fade to front to quiet down the cockpit. (the cockpit rocker switch doesn't turn off the cockpit speakers whereas the cabin one does work). Now I just have to figure out how the ohms are figured when wiring 2 speakers (4 wires) to 2 channel outputs (I have 10 total speakers and 8 channels of output..... off to google some more
 
Loangainer,
Pull the 4 screws from the panel where you found the clarion amp. The 50watt amp is located on the back side of it. There is another 50watt amp on the backside of the other panel as well. One runs to transom speakers and the other runs the cabin I think. I'm not understanding how it all works but I threw that piece of junk clarion amp in the trash and installed a 5 channel 600watt rockford fosgate in its place. 2 new speakers in the transom (originals were shot) and I can rock my boat!! Super happy even with no sub. My cockpit speakers were fine, they just needed a decent amp to drive them. Rock on!
Bill
 
6.2's are fine, just a bit less HP. I have the 8.1's and it is quite powerful, but expensive to operate. But also I have the larger 2008 350 (now called the 370) which weighs @3000 pounds more than the 350 your looking at. Both are great boats and a lot of fun.
I cruise at 3500 RPM and average 30 gallons per hour.
My next boat will absolutely be diesel, but that's hard to find in anything less than a 40 ft boat.

You mention above that you cruise at 3500 rpm with a burn rate of 30 gph. What speed are you cruising at? I have an 08 330 with 8.1 v-drives and I cruise at roughly 3550 rpm, 30 mph, 38 gph. How much worse is the 350?
 
i have a 2008 350 (current version 370) and at 3500 cruising, I run between 24-27 mph depending on the wind direction and waves.
 
It doesn't sound terribly different than the 330. Have you ever been loaded with people and had issues planing or anything like that. With the 330, the 8.1's are almost overkill, which I love. I'd like to maintain that.
 
I have a 2010 350 with 8.1's and they get the boat up on plane in a hurry, even with a boat load of people. These engines are a lot of power for a boat this size. It's also a good amount of power if you need to go to WOT for a short time to pass or avoid traffic.
 
I've had my eye on the 350/370 Sundancer for a couple of years. I'll be upgrading from my 1998 310 - which by today's measuring is more like a 34-35' boat. The 320 and 340 that came after my 310 were nice - but not really worth the $ to upgrade IMO.

I looked at a 2008 350 yesterday. It has the 8.1S engines, V-drives, Kohler generator, SmartCraft, RayMarine C120. Boat has 315 hours.

Some things I noticed - the bilge is much wetter then what I'm used to and there is some oily scum also. Is this amount of water in the bilge normal? I think the bilge in my 1998 is cleaner.

I was also concerned about the amount of smoke - picture was taken at about 4000 rpm. Anything to be concerned about?

The SmartCraft has a screen for the generator monitoring - but it didn't register anything (with the generator running). Is something broken or is that an option this boat doesn't have.

There is a chunk of plastic missing at the base of the arch where it mounts. There is also a crack in the counter around the grill. I'm wondering if the arch was/is loose? Smooth water yesterday so I'm not sure I'd have heard anything.

Owner said the boat doesn't have auto-pilot - seem odd?

Owner is asking really strong money...haven't made an offer yet. Boat is badly in need of a buff/wax (all white boat) and all the cushions, seats, fabrics are dirty - again my 1998 is much cleaner. Canvas is OK. Carpet is about done. It doesn't have the extended swim platform which I'd prefer.
 
Well I guess I can't upload photos unless they are extremely small - and hence useless. I can't even upload a single 38.8k photo - "exceeds my quota by 64k???". Sorry for the post...worthless without pictures.
 
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I've had my eye on the 350/370 Sundancer for a couple of years. I'll be upgrading from my 1998 310 - which by today's measuring is more like a 34-35' boat. The 320 and 340 that came after my 310 were nice - but not really worth the $ to upgrade IMO.

I looked at a 2008 350 yesterday. It has the 8.1S engines, V-drives, Kohler generator, SmartCraft, RayMarine C120. Boat has 315 hours.

Some things I noticed - the bilge is much wetter then what I'm used to and there is some oily scum also. Is this amount of water in the bilge normal? I think the bilge in my 1998 is cleaner.

I was also concerned about the amount of smoke - picture was taken at about 4000 rpm. Anything to be concerned about?

The SmartCraft has a screen for the generator monitoring - but it didn't register anything (with the generator running). Is something broken or is that an option this boat doesn't have.

There is a chunk of plastic missing at the base of the arch where it mounts. There is also a crack in the counter around the grill. I'm wondering if the arch was/is loose? Smooth water yesterday so I'm not sure I'd have heard anything.

Owner said the boat doesn't have auto-pilot - seem odd?

Owner is asking really strong money...haven't made an offer yet. Boat is badly in need of a buff/wax (all white boat) and all the cushions, seats, fabrics are dirty - again my 1998 is much cleaner. Canvas is OK. Carpet is about done. It doesn't have the extended swim platform which I'd prefer.

I'll try to answer a few of your questions/concerns.

1- There is visible white smoke from the underwater exhaust at cruise. It isn't a lot, but this is definitely visible.

2- My bilge always has some water in the center after we have heavy rains. This was not an issue on my old SR, but with this boat its always been an issue. Nothing is leaking, I've checked many times.

3- SmartCraft should be getting generator data. Sounds like there's a connection issue.

4- What piece of plastic are you referring to at the base of the arch? In my 2010 the arch fiberglass comes directly in contact with the hull fiberglass. There's no visible plastic or connections. The arch is bolted to the hull inside. You can't easily see this connection.

5- The crack around the grill doesn't sound too serious. That is a piece of countertop that can be replaced if it concerns you. I've had to remove the grill before. It comes out easy.

6- Autopilot is an option. It's not standard. My boat doesn't have it.

7- I have a 2010 and I've already replaced my canvas once. It sounds like this boat may have some deferred maintenance (i.e.: wax, carpets, etc.). What's the bottom paint and zincs look like? How many hours on the engines?

8- When SR went to the integrated swim platform extended platforms were rare options. I've only seen a few 2008-2012 330's and 350's with an extended swim platform.
 
i have a 2008 350 (current version 370) and at 3500 cruising, I run between 24-27 mph depending on the wind direction and waves.

Is your burn rate similar?

upload_2018-9-22_8-27-4.png
 
It doesn't have the extended swim platform which I'd prefer.546F5ED0-493B-433D-9494-5AE1EE5BB916.JPG

We enjoy our swim Platform from SwimPlatforms.com; it is the best upgrade we have done to date. Structurally it does not need the posts from the platform to the transom.
 

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Anyone know how to gain access to the Anchor locker other than the small access hole on top of the bow under the windlass cover? I've see some posts from others with different model searays that say the v-birth mirror comes off and behind it is an access panel. I need to investigate a leak...
 
Anyone know how to gain access to the Anchor locker other than the small access hole on top of the bow under the windlass cover? I've see some posts from others with different model searays that say the v-birth mirror comes off and behind it is an access panel. I need to investigate a leak...

A little nudge, nobody has rooted around to reseal the anchor locker or clean out the clamshell drains etc.?
 
08 350 Sundancer with Axius purchased last year. Changed all the bellows this season but still have an ongoing slow water drip at the transom behind the STBD engine. It is a Seacore Bravo 3 and find it hard to believe it is the steering pin since it is Stainless Steel. Im thinking it is the transom assy and wondering if anyone else has had a similar leak. The Surveyor missed it but said he did see the rusty steering arm on the inside of the transom but didn't spot the leak. I told him he should have put that in his report to inform me. Thinking of going to a certified Mercruiser dealer. Can anyone recommend a dealer on the LI Sound near Mt. Sinai including Connecticut? Thanks, J-Rod
 
known issue on all 08's with SeaCore - mine had it on both drives.

Both pins replaced - all tubes/rubber/sensors wires from engine to drives replaced - transom seals redone - engines re-aligned. Since engines had to come out anyway - I did it all in one go as it was cheaper than try-and-fix-and-retry.

Merc was absolutely zero help.... Diagnostics help was from this site and a few friendly independent dealers in the USA (boat was not in the US). No help from MarineMax (seller) or surveyor. Surveyor stopped responding when I politely told him about the issues. It was discovered within 3 days of boat being in my ownership.
 
Was the leak from the transom seals? I heard there was issues with the transom assemblies from 2008 through 2010? What would the approx cost be to change the transom seals? When I changed the bellows, the port gimbal housing was stripped where the pins bolt up and was just replaced. Some talk about the steering pin seals but as written, I don't think its a problem with a low hour seacore with stainless pins. Thanks for all comments or suggestions. I had the same support from my Broker and the Surveyor, none after contacting them within a few weeks.
 
on mine it was not the steering pin itself - but the surface and seals around the steering pins. Apart from that I had tiny leak from pitot tube seals.

The reason was probably that the boat had been lift kept - so rubber and seals dried out making them leak.

On my drives I had to replace the tilt indicators as well - as they failed as well.

Once the leak is there - you get nowhere unless you do the work completely. Get all seals inspected and IF boat was kept on a lift - then double check.

I would check and potentially replace all sea-cocks as well as they might get issues later if the boat has been kept on a lift. I had to replace 2 of mine. If they are fine - make certain you exercise your sea-cocks often.

Like everything on a boat - "use it - or loose it"
 

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