420 DA Thread

Sorry guys - I have tried to search here - but not even sure of the key words...

What are the dimensions of the lazerette hatch in the back of the boat? Trying to get an idea on name size...

I know I have come across the information before - but, being new to the site still, I'm not as familiar with the search functionality as I am on other forums.

Thank you.
 
Current Transom 1.JPG


Dimensions.jpg
 
And obviously it's very easy to cross the hatch cut lines with the name and it doesn't mess up the look of it in any way. I laid mine across and then took a straight edge to cut the name where the seams were. Rolled the edges around the hatch and opening curved edges and it looks very nice. Never notice the breaks. You can see the 'm' is split across panels


The Other Woman.JPG
 
And obviously it's very easy to cross the hatch cut lines with the name and it doesn't mess up the look of it in any way. I laid mine across and then took a straight edge to cut the name where the seams were. Rolled the edges around the hatch and opening curved edges and it looks very nice. Never notice the breaks. You can see the 'm' is split across panels


View attachment 70726

Looks great! A couple of questions - do you recall the length of the name? Appears to be in the 50"+ range. Also - what was your center point? Did you use the center line across the beam (which would be the stern light) or did you center the name across the hatch? I may be asking the same question twice here.
 
I aligned it on the hatch since it seemed like it was aligned on centerline.

I would say it's 48-50"s wide based on the fact that the hatch is 48" wide
 
Blue Chip, just to show you another way, we placed our name below the lazerette hatch and it is centered on the boat. All personal preference.
20161029_125959.jpg
 
Blue chip... most sign places can overlay your name on top of a pic of your transom. That’s why I posted the blank transom pic. You can play with location and sizing then
 
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This is great! Thank you all for the help here... the waiting game has almost come to an end... next week should be the big day.
 
Today I replaced the front window vent gasket. The old one was original and in bad shape. I removed the actuator from the window piece, removed the actuator plastic housing, and the two screws that hold the actuator bracket to the dash were rusted and broken. The actuator was just sitting in its plastic house. The screws are broken off in the dash. I tried to use gorilla glue to glue the metal Actuator bracket to the fiberglass dash in the same location but it did not hold. I may try 3M 5200 next. Anyone have this issue or suggestion for repair?

I'm no expert but snapped off screw heads is something that can be dealt with by drilling/tapping the stuck screw shaft and then extracting the screw. There are tools sold at most hardware/big box stores for this.
 
SHOWER SUMP / GREY WATER REPAIR

Screen Shot 2019-06-07 at 5.43.09 PM.png


After taking the boat to Catalina Island over Memorial Day weekend with my son & four of his friends I used the shower in the boat. I noticed the drain was a little slow draining, and later lifted the floor hatch and noticed the shower sump box was full (overflowing to the bilge) with nasty shower water and the pump was not going on.

Here are my steps to diagnosing / repairing:

1) Removed the wing nuts / cover from the sump box.

2) Manually emptied the nasty shower water.

3) Tried to manually activate the float switch to no effect.

4) Checked the wiring bundle (pictured at bottom of the screen) and one of the wires came loose from the butt connectors (where two wires joined in with one wire).

5) I temporarily stuck the wire back in and tried again to manually activate the float switch and it still didn't work.

6) I bypassed the float switch and the pump came on right away and started pumping out water.

7) I turned off the "Sump Pump #1" breaker at the DC Breaker Panel

8) I cut all the positive wires away from the pump and float switch and removed the float switch from the box (it had come loose anyway and had kind of been floating around in the shower water).

9) I checked the float switch with a multimeter and still when manually activating the switch there still was no connection.

10) Went to West Marine and bought a replacement float switch (same model and size as the old one). I also bought new heat shrink butt connectors, including a step down butt connector for where two wires joined with a single wire.

11) Tested the new float switch with the multimeter and confirmed when activated that the float switch closed the connection.

12) Installed the float switch into the sump box. NOTE: The screw holes in the sump box were slightly too close together to attach screws at both ends of the float switch. This was probably why the old switch eventually came loose. I tightened the screw on the side of the switch where the wiring comes out of the float switch as much as possible, and left the other side unbolted.

12) There were three wires coming from the boat wiring to the sump box: 1) Black 2) Brown 3) Brown w/ Orange Stripe.

13) I consulted Section 6 of the Sea Ray Owners manual - DC Wiring Schematic 6.29.1 and confirmed:
Black: Ground (323-14) -> To Ground
Brown: (324-16) -> To SeaRay Systems Monitor
Brown/Orange: (322-14) -> To Sump Pump #1 Breaker on Engine Room DC Panel (Note Sump Pump #2 Breaker on panel is not in use according to wiring diagram.)

14) Rewired into three butt connectors:
Negative from pump -> Black Ground (323-14)
Positive from pump -> Float switch wire #1 + Brown/SeaRay Systems Monitor Wire (Using step down butt connector)
Float switch wire #2 -> Brown/Orange (322-14) wire going to breaker panel.

15) Turned back on breaker and confirmed the pump now activated when I filled up the grey water box.

16) Used a heat source to shrink down the covering on all the butt connectors.

17) Used zip ties to secure the wiring bundle.

QUESTIONS FOR CSR:
- Any recommendations for cleaning out the grey water sump box?
- Any body else run into a problem where the float switch doesn't match the holes in the sump box? If so what did you do?
 
SHOWER SUMP / GREY WATER REPAIR

View attachment 70935

After taking the boat to Catalina Island over Memorial Day weekend with my son & four of his friends I used the shower in the boat. I noticed the drain was a little slow draining, and later lifted the floor hatch and noticed the shower sump box was full (overflowing to the bilge) with nasty shower water and the pump was not going on.

Here are my steps to diagnosing / repairing:

1) Removed the wing nuts / cover from the sump box.

2) Manually emptied the nasty shower water.

3) Tried to manually activate the float switch to no effect.

4) Checked the wiring bundle (pictured at bottom of the screen) and one of the wires came loose from the butt connectors (where two wires joined in with one wire).

5) I temporarily stuck the wire back in and tried again to manually activate the float switch and it still didn't work.

6) I bypassed the float switch and the pump came on right away and started pumping out water.

7) I turned off the "Sump Pump #1" breaker at the DC Breaker Panel

8) I cut all the positive wires away from the pump and float switch and removed the float switch from the box (it had come loose anyway and had kind of been floating around in the shower water).

9) I checked the float switch with a multimeter and still when manually activating the switch there still was no connection.

10) Went to West Marine and bought a replacement float switch (same model and size as the old one). I also bought new heat shrink butt connectors, including a step down butt connector for where two wires joined with a single wire.

11) Tested the new float switch with the multimeter and confirmed when activated that the float switch closed the connection.

12) Installed the float switch into the sump box. NOTE: The screw holes in the sump box were slightly too close together to attach screws at both ends of the float switch. This was probably why the old switch eventually came loose. I tightened the screw on the side of the switch where the wiring comes out of the float switch as much as possible, and left the other side unbolted.

12) There were three wires coming from the boat wiring to the sump box: 1) Black 2) Brown 3) Brown w/ Orange Stripe.

13) I consulted Section 6 of the Sea Ray Owners manual - DC Wiring Schematic 6.29.1 and confirmed:
Black: Ground (323-14) -> To Ground
Brown: (324-16) -> To SeaRay Systems Monitor
Brown/Orange: (322-14) -> To Sump Pump #1 Breaker on Engine Room DC Panel (Note Sump Pump #2 Breaker on panel is not in use according to wiring diagram.)

14) Rewired into three butt connectors:
Negative from pump -> Black Ground (323-14)
Positive from pump -> Float switch wire #1 + Brown/SeaRay Systems Monitor Wire (Using step down butt connector)
Float switch wire #2 -> Brown/Orange (322-14) wire going to breaker panel.

15) Turned back on breaker and confirmed the pump now activated when I filled up the grey water box.

16) Used a heat source to shrink down the covering on all the butt connectors.

17) Used zip ties to secure the wiring bundle.

QUESTIONS FOR CSR:
- Any recommendations for cleaning out the grey water sump box?
- Any body else run into a problem where the float switch doesn't match the holes in the sump box? If so what did you do?

The gunk in the sump box wreaks havoc with float switches.
Clean it out really well, stop using soap, use body wash instead. If you keep the sump clean you’re going to have less problems with the float switch.
Also, keep AC drip pan tablets in your AC drip pans since they drain in to the sumps too.
I use a product called Noflex Digestor that I buy online in my heads. It’s pricey but it works. I’ve found that pouring a half teaspoon or so down the shower drain every week or so and flushing through with hot water helps a bit to keep the sump clean.
I take a lot of showers on the boat so I usually just put the Noflex Digestor in just before I take a shower.
I still open the sumps a couple of times a season to clean them just to be safe.
 
The whole sump box being used as a collector that eventually dumps out of the boat is a horrible design. All of us have had to clean, maintain the sumps, pumps, and lines. I am going to tackle just pumping all drains leading in to just directly pump it out of the closest through hulls. I can’t stand cleaning that thing. Has anyone bypassed it??
 
OK guys I really need some sanity help here --- My '05 420 gasser with all chain rode sides with a bow down attitude, she just does not sit LEVEL and my OCD is killing me. I have a friend just up the dock with the same vessel with diesels and his is level.
When my girl is under way its no biggie - we raft up together and my swim platform and trims are just "higher". Is this just due to the anchor rode being chain or the difference of gas vs. diesel power plants??

Thanks - i know its a silly thing but it bothers me.
chris
 
OK guys I really need some sanity help here --- My '05 420 gasser with all chain rode sides with a bow down attitude, she just does not sit LEVEL and my OCD is killing me. I have a friend just up the dock with the same vessel with diesels and his is level.
When my girl is under way its no biggie - we raft up together and my swim platform and trims are just "higher". Is this just due to the anchor rode being chain or the difference of gas vs. diesel power plants??

Thanks - i know its a silly thing but it bothers me.
chris

I would think it is more the diesels than your all chain rode.
The extra weight of the diesels sitting all the way back there behind the V drives is a lot more significant.
 
I would think it is more the diesels than your all chain rode.
The extra weight of the diesels sitting all the way back there behind the V drives is a lot more significant.

This is what i assumed but I just hate it that she does not sit level!!
 

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