Kohler 5ECD Not Running EC62, UU, UF

I have a 5ECD, I’m going to take pics of the fuel module just out of curiosity. I just ran it over Memorial Day weekend, and it had 2 ec62 errors early on, but the intake was getting blocked. One I got that corrected and removed some barnacles from the intake, and cleaned the strainer, the water flow out the exhaust was much better and it ran all night without issue. I do get errors (UU?) when I try to run the AC + (water heater, or hair dryer, or microwave), not sure if that is a defect or just typical. I’m assuming the former and possibly related to the issues pyro and OzRob have corrected. I have over 500 hours, probably and I try to run it for an hour with load each time we go out, so every 2 weeks or so). Panel currently at 100 something, but the electronics were replaced by the PO and that reset the hours (only “32” when we bought it) thanks again to OzRob and pyro for their excellent write-ups and pictures + video!
 
Also, can't I just bleed the system by holding down the 3 dots button and switching to run (it will then read FUEL on the display), and I could crack the bnut at the end of the white tubing behind the oil fill?
IMG_0012.png
 
Also, can't I just bleed the system by holding down the 3 dots button and switching to run (it will then read FUEL on the display), and I could crack the bnut at the end of the white tubing behind the oil fill?View attachment 70830
I bled the system by taking the chuck off of my air compressor, connecting a plastic tube to it, and once the system reads Fuel (like you mentioned above by pressing the magic buttons), I put the chuck on the schrader(spelling?) valve and bled the fuel into a cup. Pretty simple, I’m not a tech so don’t want to answer your question directly, just report what I did.
 
Are you in fresh water or salt?

Push the wire clip on the injector outwards and then pull the connector off. You then have to get the injector out. I don't remember exactly, but some combination of removing the clip, two metric allen bolts and possibly the hard fuel line.

You can replace the injector if you want, which might help temporarily, but you need to question why the injector is plugged up. Read this entire thread, and it shows a very likely reason is due to a corroding fuel module. Another option is to get the injector cleaned, instead of replacing it. If it works for a while, great. If it fails again, then look again at this thread.

Take pictures of your fuel pump, especially the top. Look for corrosion. The two shown on this thread indicate that if the corrosion is bad on the outside, it's shot on the inside. The fuel module is on the front of the unit to the left of the RUN/OFF/AUTO switch. That same white hard fuel line comes from it.

You could probably bleed as you mention, but you have no way to collect it and likely make a mess and get fuel all over. Todd320 had it right.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Pyro, a lot of great photos and detail in this thread.

Im in fresh water now, but I just bought the boat 2 months ago and it was sitting in Salt Water up in Vancouver.

I've read through the full thread, I'll start by getting the pics of the fuel module and inspecting for corrosion and either cleaning or changing out the injector to see if I can get it running.

C
 
Oh, its the thing with the 2 white wires coming out of it in this pic?

When I try and start the generator it cranks but immediately faults our to a UU code.

Initially I was getting an LOC code, i replaced the old water hoses and cleaned out the strainer and replaced the water pump impeller and this code went away.

I also replaced the fuel/water seperator and inline fuel filter, and spark plugs.

I disconnected some of the terminals on the SCR and re-connected them and it turned on (a lucky start), so I replaced the SCR module thinking that was the trick but no luck.

The negative battery terminal was all rusted so I decided to loosen the bolts and wire brush the connections but of course one of the terminals just broke off from being so corroded so just ordered a new of those. Maybe that will fix it, doubt it.

I've been reading on clubsearay, some people changed their fuel injector and it fixed the UU problem.

I really have no idea..but welcome any advice. (I hate this generator)

Chris

View attachment 70829

Oops - I see pyro was responding as I was typing this - I'll leave my comments anyway - pretty much what pyro was saying.

Chris,

Yep, that's the fuel injector.

Does the generator start, then chug along for a few seconds before stopping with the UU code?
(Refer pyro's video in the first post of this thread.)

If it does, your problem will no doubt be a blocked injector caused by corrosion of the fuel cooler module.
The injector can just be cleaned out, but if you've already bought a new one you might as well install it, unless it can be returned.
Pull the module off and have a look at the back of it - it will be immediately obvious if it's corroded - see previous photos. The only fix is a new one, and while you're at it I'd also replace the priming pump.
I see you've already installed a new filter.

Read through this thread and you'll get a good idea of how to do it.

Good luck!

Rob
 
I have the same generator with 210 hours on it and have had nothing but trouble. Im told by the Kohler mechanic that its the ethanol and he is very busy as its destroying these generators. I'm up to @ $5000 dollars on repairs thus far. Each year, its some other major component,, its almost comical how bad these things are designed.,
Been dealing with an oxygen sensor shutdown this past couple weeks. I am ready to make it a boat anchor.
 
I finally got to the boat today to undertake the fuel cooler module raw water by pass I've mentioned in an earlier post.
It looks like this:
Hose connection to the raw water pump with an elbow to get around the corner of the genset frame / control panel:
IMG_2127 (1008 x 756).jpg

Then up to the heat exchanger inlet:
IMG_2122 (1008 x 756).jpg

Note that I left the existing hoses in place - just in case . . . read on !

Ambient temperature of the fuel module before starting was 16.5 deg C and after letting it run for about 10 minutes I got the following results:
Fuel module - 30 deg C
Fuel Line - 48 deg C
Coolant tank - 110 deg C

So, compared with the pre bypass temps that's an increase of about 2 deg C for the module and 8 deg C for the line and interestingly also an increase of about 5 deg C for the coolant tank. Other than a slightly higher coolant temp it all appears reasonable and to be expected given that the raw water is now not cooling the fuel module.

Just as I was thinking all was good it suddenly stopped with the HE code - overtemp - WTF!
I restarted it and it ran for a few minutes before tripping out again, with a noticeable quantity of coolant gurgling out into the overflow bottle.
I reconnected the plumbing as designed and started it again, thinking the bypass was the culprit. It ran great for another few minutes then stopped again with the HE code. Hmmm . . that's a bit odd.
I had jumped to the conclusion that the plumbing change had caused the HE code however had I stopped to think it through a bit more carefully I would have realised that this wouldn't be the cause. The fuel may be running a bit hotter but the coolant should actually be lower, and it's the temp sensor in the coolant tank that gives the HE code - doooh.

Remembering pyros comments about opening the little vent plug on the top of the coolant tank, I did this and added some water - it took about a litre - so I suspect a low coolant level was the problem all along, it's just that I let it run a little longer this time and it tripped out.
By now however, it was getting a bit late in the day and I couldn't be arsed changing the hoses back yet again so I left it connected as designed, ran it again and it was OK.
I will try again with the bypass, as it was initially running fine with it configured this way - it didn't stop because of a slightly higher fuel temperature.
Next time I'll let it get hot then stop it to see if there's any heat sink/vaporisation issues.

All this might be a total waste of time and I may end up back to square one, but if it will run reliably with the bypass it will solve a major (read "expensive") maintenance issue with regard to the fuel cooler module.
 
Last edited:
Yup, I discovered this same way you did! It air locks itself and can't circulate the coolant.

One concern is the coolant is somewhat used for cooling the pump itself. I'm wondering if it's slightly better to fill antifreeze into the pump housing so it at least has a little better thermal conductivity to extract the heat from the pump. Although, by design the pump itself is "dry". And of course it will retain the heat longer as well. You can always put another heat exchanger on! lol

If you get this working reliably, I probably will switch to it as well. But you need some hot days for some real reliability testing. Keep us updated.
 
This is a great thread, most comprehensive generator thread around. I have a new to me (6/7) 06 320DA with a Kohler, prob the same model as one of yours and I'm sure this info will really help soon. Just want to say thanks and I'll post a pic of the fuel module as soon as possible. I have an EC72 code after cranking one cycle
 
Oops - I see pyro was responding as I was typing this - I'll leave my comments anyway - pretty much what pyro was saying.

Chris,

Yep, that's the fuel injector.

Does the generator start, then chug along for a few seconds before stopping with the UU code?
(Refer pyro's video in the first post of this thread.)

If it does, your problem will no doubt be a blocked injector caused by corrosion of the fuel cooler module.
The injector can just be cleaned out, but if you've already bought a new one you might as well install it, unless it can be returned.
Pull the module off and have a look at the back of it - it will be immediately obvious if it's corroded - see previous photos. The only fix is a new one, and while you're at it I'd also replace the priming pump.
I see you've already installed a new filter.

Read through this thread and you'll get a good idea of how to do it.

Good luck!

Rob
Thanks Guys I read through the thread and changed out the fuel injector, my Kohler is running great now!
 
Harmon,

When I bought my boat a couple of years ago my first exposure to the idiosyncrasies of the infamous Kohler genset was getting the EC72 code. The problem in my case was a blown fuse, F5 from memory.
So, if you're new to the boat, before going any further I would replace all your fuses.
The combination of salt (or brackish) water and heat is perfect for destroying or degrading any electrical device, and given that fuses cost peanuts, I wouldn't waste my time even checking them, just replace them.
There are obviously other reasons for the EC72 code, one of which is noted below from another SeaRay post from 2014:
"As I de-winterized boat this season and tried to start Generator I was receiving an EC72 Error code. After some discussions here on CSR, I replaced this relay "Kohler Part #GM28787 Relay,SPDT 30A,12V Coil Sealed" (took about 5 minutes) and it started right up.. :)"

Back to the fuel module issue - here's a photo I found online taken from a boat sales site - the genset is in a 2008 SeaRay and has 239 hours on it. The module is unpainted so therefore has been replaced at some stage, but note the beginnings of corrosion of the top section, and also at the bottom where the raw water line is connected - no doubt a leaking joint.
2008 Genset.jpg

So, here's a boat that's one year younger than mine, has already had the module replaced at least once, and is again showing signs of advanced corrosion.
Other than acknowledging receipt of my email showing them the problem, I never did hear back from Walbro, the company that make the modules.

I'm yet to get back to the boat and reconnect the bypass - will post again when I have.
 
My 5ECD started no problem on Friday afternoon, (port batteries were low, so I started engine’s, starboard, then port using emergency switch, then generator). Then, I turned off the engines. Few minutes later, realized I needed to move the boat, cranked the port engine, but the batteries were still low it wouldn’t start and the generator died. Reset, but could not get it started, (would not turn over, and it would give OC error. I noticed a website mentioned it can be caused by low batteries.
So, I charged the batteries overnight at the marina we stayed at, and the generator started and ran fine for over an hour today as we packed up the boat with the AC on.
And I have a “new” fuel module, the old one was “leaking badly” and replaced by PO, I need to find the repair date and parts list, but I’m guessing the corrosion mentioned here caused the leak.
 
OK, hopefully the final comment on the genset.
Back to the boat again today to reconfigure the hoses back to the by pass position, and also to attend to another issue that came up yesterday that I didn't mention in my post last night - a bit of a recurring misfire.
Although it started easily and initially ran quite smoothly, after a minute or two it would stumble, like it was about to shutdown, then pick up and continue running. It made the same sort of burbling note that it does when you do shut it down, so I guessed that it was an electrical issue.
Not having much of an idea where to look, I started with the easy stuff and pulled off the plugs and HT leads.
One of the plugs had a gap that was about 50% greater than it should have been so I cleaned them up and regapped them both. The leads tested out as one having a resistance of 1500 ohms and the other about 600 ohms.
I've no idea what they should be but one being more than twice the other can't be good, however given that I didn't have any spares I just put it all back together and gave it a shot.
It started and ran smoothly and continuously, so my take on that is that the plug gap is quite sensitive and the leads not so much! It's also possible that one of the leads wasn't pushed on fully - it can be a bit trickey to get them right down onto the coil and my electrician had a go at them a couple of weeks ago, so possibly he didn't quite get one of them back on completely.

Something that I did notice today that has me hoping that the bypass continues to work without issues was this:

IMG_2143 (1008 x 756).jpg

Yes, that's corrosion starting around one of the screws that secures the top section of the fuel cooler module !!
That would be the same module that cost me a bloody fortune and has done about one hour since installation.
It's pretty obvious that raw water is leaking past the gasket and out to the screw hole, and probably going the other way as well, into the module internals.
IMG_2019 (1008 x 756).jpg

I took it apart before fitting it and noticed that the screws were barely more than finger tight, so I re-torqued them a little more firmly when I re-assembled it, but I must confess I was a bit underwhelmed by the gasket you can see here.
It's a fibre thing with a rubberised insert to form the seal. Although it looks the part, the insert is actually very thin, not really any thicker than the fibre that carries it.
I've seen this type of thing before but the insert is normally quite thick compared to the fibre and therefore squishes out to make a good seal when the two faces are bolted together.
I did briefly think of adding some form of gasket sealant but dismissed the idea as being a bit paranoid - no doubt these guys know what they're doing . . . right ???
I'm kicking myself now for not having done it.

Anyway, that's hopefully the end of my genset saga, at least until something else fails on it.
At the moment it starts easily, hot or cold, runs well with and without load and if I can avoid having to reconnect the module to the raw water system the corrosion should not continue . . I'll then be a happy camper.
 
Last edited:
I seem to be in the same boat as most people in that I’ve had nothing but trouble with my Kohler generator.

Has anybody gone with the “nuclear” option and pulled out the Kohler generator and replaced it with another make and model?

I noted over on a different thread that @Fly'n Family has “an upgraded Westerbeke 7.5 MCGA low CO gas gen set”:

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/leave-generator-running.87940/#post-997676

My boat has the Kohler 10e, and I compared the specs between the Kohler and the Westerbeke:

Kohler 10e Westerbeke 7.5 MCGA
Length 33.82” 27.7”
Width 20.04” 18.4”
Height 24.41” 17.9”
Weight 447lbs 385lbs
Kw 10 7.5

Here is a link: http://westerbeke.cranberryprintmarketing.com/publication/?i=534525&p=&pn=#{"issue_id":534525,"page":6}

Has anybody looked into the cost of rip and replace? I couldn’t find the purchase cost of the Westerbeke online. Could you integrate into the existing SR gen starter / run / stop switches / raw water pump / exhaust / electrical?

Seems like staying with Kohler is a losing bet of headaches and repair bills?
 
Can't believe I am posting back to this thread.

Have 6 hours on the generator since fixing it. This Saturday it was running for 15 min and then cutout with EC62! Restarted it, ran for about 5 min, EC62 again. I checked my sea strainer and had a little junk at the bottom, but certainly not enough to impede flow. Looked at the pump, and sure enough I have a small salt buildup on the outside where the seal is, between the two allen bolts. It's not coming up through the screw like OzRob, but same vicinity. I wiped it off with my finger, instead of getting a good pic of it. I'm already suspecting salt could be leaking into the fuel!

Starting switching the local switch to off/remote/on and then the switch broke! It won't make contact at all. It's a Carling switch, but I didn't write the full P/N down. I'll jump out the wires for now.

Hopefully I'm just paranoid and I simply got some junk clogged up in the heat exchanger or the impeller lost a tooth or two. So plan for later this week is to check impeller and backflush the heat exchanger and fuel pump. However once this is fixed I am absolutely disconnecting the raw water as OzRob did. I suspect it could be fuel again because it sounded like it changed tone after 4-5 seconds of running (with no load), which was not normal.
 
pyro,
Remove the exhaust catalyst and clean the crap out of the 4 little slots around the outlet hole - refer my earlier post.
You'll need to have a couple of 'O 'rings (gaskets) on hand to re-assemble it.
Make sure you clean the slots in both the catalyst and the cast manifold on the genset.
 
Guys I have a 5EKD. Yes, these are very finicky indeed. I am trying to resolve a raw water leak. I cant tell if the pump cooler housing has rotted through or the fitting is leaking. At $500 for a new pump, I am going to try to reseal the fitting first. Is there anything special I need to know about removing / replacing these? See 2 picture below. The paint was blistering off so I removed it only to see some corrosion.. Nice!
Pump.jpg

Leak.jpg
 
Tony,

Haaa . . you think that's corrosion?? Take a look at the photos on page 1 of this thread!

Seriously though, if your boat has operated in salt water I would recommend removing the fuel cooler and checking it out, rather than just sealing the visible leak. It's not all that difficult to get it off - read back through the thread.
Good luck!
 
This was a picture of my original pump that also had a leak that PO tried to JB weld. It held for maybe a year, but the internal failures started causing bigger issues. So you might be able to seal it for just long enough to accept the fact that your going to need a new pump. Is the generator running reliably?

kohler_org_pump.jpg


Don't attempt to remove the fitting. I guarantee the housing will crumble into pieces.

Related to my last post, I think something got stuck up in my intake as I have not had any additional water flow issues. I still want to bypass pump in the next couple weeks and test it, although its now cooler than the hottest days of summer. Still meaning to post updated picture of salt crystals getting past gasket towards outside.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,950
Messages
1,422,865
Members
60,932
Latest member
juliediane
Back
Top