Water intake strainer cleaning?

The units in mine look different than on videos I've found....most videos show a cap that appears to screw of the top, allowing removal of a strainer basket. Mine has a different fixture with a hose attachment coming out of the top.

What's hose attachment for?

Suggestions for product to clean that blue "pantina" from it?

I can't see where the other end goes. If it's for your A/C, it's a clean out fitting. Attach a hose, close the thru hull and run fresh water or whatever concoction you want through the system. Then open the thru hull and blow out whatever weed or grass is stuck in your intake.
This model of strainer doesn't screw on. There are 2 nuts on the top holding bolts down. You loosen then and can lay one bolt aside, and lift the top like a hinged lid to access the strainer.
I have something similar, but mine is inline with the intake hose from the sea cock to the strainer inlet.

If it goes to the engine, then it's a flush system. Same deal, close the thru hull and run fresh water/salt away thru the system while still in the water.

What you have looks like it was modified (unless thats an option), and the hose connection ontop was added for flushing as 370Dancer mentions. Here is an image of the standard unit you have. As stated, the two wing nuts ontop allow you to open the top and pull out the strainer. Normally you shut off the seacock valve (thru hull side) and then loosen both wing nuts. One of the wing nut bolts should then be able to fall to the side. At that point, you can lift the cap and swing it to the side. Since you have the fitting ontop, not sure if you have enough clearance to swing everything out of the way - so you may need to remove the remaining wingnut and washer completely and lift the top straight off.

When you get the top off, check the underside - there is either a cork gasket or I believe a newer type rubber gasket. Given you have a 97 (I have a 92) its probably cork. My suggestion - try not to leave the cap off for more than maybe a few hours, and not in direct sunlight as the cork can ‘dry out’ and not seal properly when you put it back together. You can get a new set of cork gaskets, but they are pricey ($75) for what they are, and will eventually run the same fate. I ended up using blue RTV gasket masker and ran a bead along the inside where the gasket goes. Seems to be doing well - note though I’m in freshwater - not sure if salt water would cause issues with RTV.

Hope this helps!

That's a cool feature for winterizing, flushing or reestablishing prime. But I don't think it's a factory option? Too much risk...that ball valve is all that stands between the boat sinking and floating

If you're of the risk-averse mindset you could rig up a short piece of hose to keep attached to that connection on top of the strainer cap. Make it just long enough to go above the water line and sleep better knowing you don't have to worry about the ball valve being kicked open (and not noticing).

I agree, it's a modification of the original . I like the idea!

Thanks all....
These are the 2 in the stern...the single AC one is up ahead of the engines, near the battery tray on the starboard side.

Noted about the riskyness of the top ball valve..it is above the water line. The wide downtube in front of it is the port engine exhaust...I have the collector cannisters and manifolds/risers still off.

YeOldeStonecat said:

Noted about the riskyness of the top ball valve..it is above the water line. The wide downtube in front of it is the port engine exhaust...I have the collector cannisters and manifolds/risers still off.

Click to expand...

It's above the water line? That seems nearly impossible on a 300 unless you're only drafting like 18"???

A lot of conversation about the patina, but not too many remedies. I've learned to love it. My surveyor calls it Verdigris.
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