Best wax/coating after buffing

For whatever it's worth I just recently did a side-by-side comparison between Hydrosilex (a spray on ceramic) and Meguires Flagship. The hydrosilex smelled amazing. Especially the pre-cleaner step. Sadly, that was about as far as the benefits went for this $50 per bottle wonderfulness.

The spray on ceramic did absolutely nothing to the gel. You couldn't even tell I had touched it after proper prep and multiple coats. The Meguires left the typical shine I expected after one wax-on, wax-off cycle.

Your mileage may vary.
That's not a true ceramic coating.
 
Many high quality ceramic coatings are available to detailer shops ONLY. There are only a few that can be purchased by the consumer. The process typically is to wash and then strip off any previous wax/grease, clay bar/mit, wash, compound/polish, wash, ceramic coat. It's usually applied with a small applicator sponge. A small bottle will do an entire vehicle. Pricing will vary but I would expect a high quality shop and vehicle will run between 1000-1500.
 
This is a bit off the subject, but any suggestions on cleaning the seats on my 29 AJ...Have tried just about everything and cannot get the embedded grease marks off. Seems to have gotten worse. Have heard about using a magic eraser and then a special cleaning pad with degreaser. Any help would be appreciated. Also any recommendations on cleaning the decks....used degreaser....with a pressure cleaner....got better but still stains in some areas....
For the decks, I use a good non-skid cleaner after I wash them. Spread the non skid cleaner on with a brush, let sit 5 mins, use the brush again, usually looks awesome, repeat if you have any spots that didn't come totally clean
 
+1 on Ceramic Pro.
I had new Volvo done by detailing shop last May.
Heavy rain will wash it clean.
Needs touch up yearly to maintain warranty.
Approximately $1000.00 for initial application then $150.00 yearly.
 
For boats that are in generally good condition, are you guys using a compounding solution or straight to polish with a machine?
I have a '08 DA in pretty good condition but want it to really shine as good as possible. On hand, I have 3M rubbing compound (fairly agressive), Meguiars cleaner wax, 3M Finesse It II.

For wax I have Collinite Fleet wax in both liquid and paste. I'll see how hard it is to apply the paste.
 
I just did mine this week. It was in pretty good shape to start but I used Meguiars Fine Cut Cleaner on the buffer then Meguiars polish then Meguiars Flagship for the wax. Looks like new now
 
I just did mine this week. It was in pretty good shape to start but I used Meguiars Fine Cut Cleaner on the buffer then Meguiars polish then Meguiars Flagship for the wax. Looks like new now
What pads did you use for each step?
 
For boats that are in generally good condition, are you guys using a compounding solution or straight to polish with a machine?
I have a '08 DA in pretty good condition but want it to really shine as good as possible. On hand, I have 3M rubbing compound (fairly agressive), Meguiars cleaner wax, 3M Finesse It II.

For wax I have Collinite Fleet wax in both liquid and paste. I'll see how hard it is to apply the paste.
If you are already starting with good shiny condition, i would skip the compound. You can test areas with Finesse It, but if the hull is already shiny, this is a step that you can likely remove too.
 
This is a bit off the subject, but any suggestions on cleaning the seats on my 29 AJ...Have tried just about everything and cannot get the embedded grease marks off. Seems to have gotten worse. Have heard about using a magic eraser and then a special cleaning pad with degreaser. Any help would be appreciated. Also any recommendations on cleaning the decks....used degreaser....with a pressure cleaner....got better but still stains in some areas....

Avoid using a Magic Eraser. They’re abrasive.
I’ve had great luck with a product called LA’s Totally Awesome Cleaner that I buy on Amazon. I noticed that my local Home Depot started carrying it now too.
 
Try Starbrite Mildew Stain Remover. Spray it on, wait 3-5 minutes and then lightly scrub with a medium brush. Be sure to rinse well. For seats / cushions you cannot get out, rinse several times using straight water and clean towels. Worked very well for me. Get off Amazon - West Marine wants way too much for it. Also sold at WalMart I think. Refrain from using the magic eraser on the vinyl, it will take the top coat off and cause you all kind of hate and discontent.
 
My goto on vinyl is Spray 9 followed by 303.
Spray on the Spray 9 liberally, scrub with a stiff brush.
Rinse well and dry.
Apply 303.

I have also heard the Starbrite Vinyl cleaner and polish works well, but I have never tried it.
 
What pads did you use for each step?
I used the white wool pad for both the Cleaner and the polish but the flagship was applied by hand
 
I just bought Marine 31 to clean my seats and it worked great. Had mold spots from winter storage. Came right off
 
I hear there's a new ceramic or some kind of new wax/coating people are using to better protect gel coat on there boats...…...
I Let the yard i'm in do the hull but topside that's what takes the beaten! I use Nu Finish paste wax it goes on easy, and comes off even easier! t actually does what they say it will it lasts.What a shine and my boat is an 86
 
IMG_0233.jpeg
 
Here's a post I made on another forum regarding washing, waxing, etc.

- - - - - - - - - - - -

Some of the most common questions in boating forums have to do with washing and waxing our boats. This topic often triggers a lot of debate when it comes to products and processes. I recently came across a flow chart on Autogeek.com called “ABC’s of Paint Restoration”. The process of automobile paint care is similar to gelcoat care but there are some differences.

I decided to use that guide as inspiration and created the attached flow chart called the “ABC’s of Gelcoat Restoration" (ok, I copied it wholesale and made appropriate changes for gelcoat). Hopefully this sparks a conversation about waxing, polishing and cleaning our boats so I can use the feedback to update the chart.


Here it is…the ABC’s of Gelcoat Restoration with a link to a downloadable PDF.

Downloadable PDF


ABCs_of_Gelcoat_Restoration.pdf
 
Here's a list of my personal favorite products and supplies.

WASHING
I use Meguiar's M4364 Marine/RV Boat Wash. I trailer my boat and wash it once a week....in addition to drying off at the boat ramp at the end of the day. It cleans very well, has good suds and a good fragrance and it won't remove your wax the way dish soap will.


If you have non-skid areas, you will want to use Star Brite Non-Skid Deck Cleaner with PTEF. Use this with a medium bristle brush and it's hand's down the best way to clean your non-skid.


Boat Wash: https://amzn.to/2Jc4h1q

Non-Skid Cleaner: https://amzn.to/2PICQOh



COMPOUNDING
The red stripes on my boat tend to oxidize pretty bad as well as my transom. For these areas I use Meguiar's M4916 Marine/RV Heavy Duty Oxidation Remover. After I remove the oxidation, I hit the stripes with Meguiar's M4416 Marine/RV Color Restorer.


Oxidation Remover: https://amzn.to/2Vbdui0

Color Restorer: https://amzn.to/2GZhXvf



FINISHING POLISH
For polishing to a deep shine with great UV protection, I think Star Brite Premium Marine Polish with PTEF is the best. Easy to apply and remove and leaves a deep mirror shine.


https://amzn.to/2LhtF8D




WAXING
Finally, for the final layer of protection, I apply Meguiar's M6332 Flagship Premium Marine Wax. This wax deepens the mirror shine that the Star Brite polish gives and it seals it in with a layer wax. In the northern climates, this will last me all season.


https://amzn.to/2Y5gHN6




THE POLISHER
Finally, I use the PORTER-CABLE 7424XP 6-Inch Variable-Speed Polisher to apply all of these products. This polisher is super easy to handle and it's a random orbital buffer so it's less likely you will damage your gelcoat the way you can with a straight rotary buffer. I think the rotary is a better tool overall for polishing but, you can cause some bad damage by burning the gelcoat if you're not careful. This polisher gives a great finish and is your best bet if don't want to use a rotary.


https://amzn.to/2ZWGY1U


 
IMG_4075.JPG
IMG_4076.JPG
IMG_4077.JPG
IMG_4078.JPG
here is 1995 gelcoat after PResta super cut , then topped off with a pass of star bright heavy duty premium polish with PTEF. used harbor freight foam compound bonnets (awesome instead of wool that drives me nuts) n a rotary variable speed also from harbor freight.
 
This past weekend I went around with polish a light cut foam pad. At times I had the polish stay moist and then I could come back and remove it. However very often it would turn hard on the hull and be very difficult to remove with the buffer. Usually had to take a rag to get it off. What went wrong? Should I wait longer for it to dry before removing? Should I not wait at all and keep it moist. I used a whole 16 oz bottle of 3M Finesse It II on just the outside of a 290 Sundancer.

I followed up with Collinite Fleetwax paste. From reading forums I was expecting it to be much more difficult to apply and remove. It was pretty easy. Trying to get the small stains and small debris stuck to the hull was much more difficult and time consuming.
 
This past weekend I went around with polish a light cut foam pad. At times I had the polish stay moist and then I could come back and remove it. However very often it would turn hard on the hull and be very difficult to remove with the buffer. Usually had to take a rag to get it off. What went wrong? Should I wait longer for it to dry before removing? Should I not wait at all and keep it moist. I used a whole 16 oz bottle of 3M Finesse It II on just the outside of a 290 Sundancer.

I followed up with Collinite Fleetwax paste. From reading forums I was expecting it to be much more difficult to apply and remove. It was pretty easy. Trying to get the small stains and small debris stuck to the hull was much more difficult and time consuming.
over the years , ive learned to go against the grain and apply the product evenly over a small section with a rag first instead of putting it on the bonnet itself. I make sure it gets rubbed "into " the whole area first. I them immediately start following with the machine... the trick is to "grab" a littler bit of product at a time and not to overload... or else you get the condition you mentioned. I have also noticed , the 3m products tend to be much more difficult to work with than others... both with dust and the issue you mentioned.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,946
Messages
1,422,777
Members
60,929
Latest member
Henchman
Back
Top