2010 SeaRay370 SA

William Cerutti

New Member
Nov 26, 2017
10
Boat Info
2010 Searay370 Sundancer, Raymarine Axiom Pro12 RVX MFD 3D
Engines
Mercruiser 496 Mag Axius 750 HP
Need to replace Acculift Actuator for Bilge Hatch-- Part Number 0004 (SR-0-18-24-50A). Pin to Pin opening is 45 Inches. Fully Closed is 27 Inches. Acculift is impossible to answer phone calls. Any options would be greatly appreciated. Also, in considering any manufacturing substitutes, I would need the load capacity for stated actuators--- Thanks
 
Unfortunately, already attempted--- No go with Acculift specs
 
Need to replace Acculift Actuator for Bilge Hatch-- Part Number 0004 (SR-0-18-24-50A). Pin to Pin opening is 45 Inches. Fully Closed is 27 Inches. Acculift is impossible to answer phone calls. Any options would be greatly appreciated. Also, in considering any manufacturing substitutes, I would need the load capacity for stated actuators--- Thanks
Hi William, did you ever find a suitable replacement? I have the exact same unit on my 2011 250 SLX - and need to get one sent to Perth ≠ Western Australia. Any hints/tips greatly appreciated!
 
Before you replace, remove the endcap near the small electric motor. Mine had a white grease that dried out and jammed the small nylons gears. Cleaned, regreased, works fine now. Minne was tripping breaker switch
 
i'm going to do that now, it's on my work bench. i was tempted to already but........... well........... i'll post again soon :)
 
Good luck. Was yours tripping breaker, or?
 
so just tore it apart and that was not the case, no real obvious reasons.

the issue is it's slow and stops mid way many times, have to keep "pumping" the switch.......... like it's weak. got it put back together now. didn't look like it needed cleaning or had a bunch of grime or whatever. did NOT trip a breaker at any time. i'm game on replacing if i can find the righ one. sent an email to that marina above asking about those specs.
 
It sounds like the long screw in the actuator is binding. Can you disassemble further and clean/regrease the screw assembly? I was lucky and didn't have to go that far on mine.
 
I think you'll find the O-Ring seals between the end of the housing and ram are sticking. Over time they seem to turn to gum - maybe because people try to lubricate the ram shaft with oil or WD40. Take it back apart, clean out the corrosion from the O-Ring grooves, pack the area with silicone grease, and install new O-rings. Put Viton or Nytril O-rings back in - communally available at NAPA for a buck.
 
I think you'll find the O-Ring seals between the end of the housing and ram are sticking. Over time they seem to turn to gum - maybe because people try to lubricate the ram shaft with oil or WD40. Take it back apart, clean out the corrosion from the O-Ring grooves, pack the area with silicone grease, and install new O-rings. Put Viton or Nytril O-rings back in - communally available at NAPA for a buck.
That will be part of my “whirl”

I’ll even try to post some
Pics of what I find if I cam
Figure out how to do that. I sincerely appreciate the advice from y’all!
 
The second part of the issue is for some reason Sea Ray doesn't use relays to operate those lifts. They run little wires all the way to the helm through a little switch and back down to the actuator; that's how it was on the 400DA. Their wiring configuration simply can't deliver enough current to properly drive the hatch lift. Over time that wiring and switching will degrade further acerbating the issue.
I put a couple of relays in a small watertight box that were actuated by the helm switch - an amazing difference.
Here are some OLD pictures of that arrangement -
Hatch Lift Relay Schematic.jpg
EngHatchRelays compressed.JPG
 
So…… I was a little scared of tearing the ram shaft and such apart. Figured I’d try just greasing it up with quicksilver lube and see if that helped. Sure enough it did, pleasantly surprised.

With that said I like your relay mod. May give that a go after this season / or when if it happens again.

Thanks again for your input!!!!!
 

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