Ideas and suggestions for diesel fuel winterizing containers

marks737

Active Member
Sep 15, 2009
333
NJ
Boat Info
2005 390 Sundancer
Engines
Cummins QSB 5.9
Hello again. First season winterizing my Cummins Qsb's. Just going through in my mind the whole process of draining the Racors and changing filters. Just wondering what kind of containers you guys are using to drain the filters into which will minimize the mess and make it easy to dispose of? I was thinking of having a bucket standing by in the engine room to put the old racors and spin on filters into along with the old fuel that's been drained. But I need a smaller container to put under the racors to catch the fuel.
 
Unless you have debris in the bowls of your Racors, there's no need to drain them to change the elements.
 
I wait until spring to change the Racors and the engine mounted fuel filters. I guess it doesn't matter, but I like starting the year off with fresh media.

I always close the fuel valve (on top of the tank) before cracking open a Racor. It helps to have a rag or absorbent pad wrapped around the Racor, because a bit will always spill out sometime during the change process. To be extra safe, I use an old ice cream plastic container, or something that will bend, to shove underneath the Racor during the procedure. When refilling after the new filter is installed, make sure the element is seated well and fill to the TOP! You don't want an "air gap" in there. Don't forget to change both O-rings: one on the lid, and one on the T handle. I always pre-moisten them with a dab of oil, just like you do on an oil filter. When you change the spin on filters, sometimes the O-ring can stay on the fixed part. Feel up under there to make sure you get it. I have 2004 6CTA's, straight mechanical. It is my custom to pre-fill the spin on filters. I'm not sure what you are supposed to do on the QSB's, but I'm sure someone will chime in.

As you suggest, I keep a 5 gallon bucket to put all of the used filters in. I put some absorbent pads in the bucket just it case it gets knocked over.

Jaybeaux
 
For normal servicing, I have cut the bottom 2"-4" off of a small plastic gas container that fits neatly under the Racor or engine mounted filters but will hold Racor contents and a filter element without overflowing. It is inexpensive, rigid enough to handle without spilling and alows you to change Racors or engine mounted filters with no mess or spills.

I agree with Brian, but I do it a bit differently. I have replaced the plugs on the bottom of my Racor bowls with ball valves (available from Racor/Parker). I open the valves and drain whatever debris may be in the bowls.......I never have anything except the normal "black dust" from the asphaltines inherent in diesel fuel. Then I open the lid and change the element. This way I know I am not collecting any sludge or water as I run the boat.
 
Since I don't have the ball valves like Frank, I take the tops off of the racor's I pull up the filter, cock it a little so it catches and can drain back into the racor cylinder. That way it's not dripping all over my E.R.
 
First time last spring, I took 1/2 gal milk jugs and cut them down. They fit neatly under the bowl. They caught the little bit that dripped down the side and then slid the jug out and placed the filter in it. Put all of this in a gallon ziplock and made "0" mess.

Bennett
 
..... It is my custom to pre-fill the spin on filters. I'm not sure what you are supposed to do on the QSB's, but I'm sure someone will chime in.

.......
Jaybeaux

DO NOT prefill the spin on filter on a QSB (or QSC) use the fuel pump to prime and fill the secondary.

Turn ignition to on (do not start), fuel pump will run for 10-15 seconds (you will hear it) then turn ignition off for 5 seconds and repeat 10-15 times
 
DO NOT prefill the spin on filter on a QSB (or QSC) use the fuel pump to prime and fill the secondary.

Turn ignition to on (do not start), fuel pump will run for 10-15 seconds (you will hear it) then turn ignition off for 5 seconds and repeat 10-15 times

I've seen (can't remember where) Cummins says to prefill, but CAT doesn't. How do you know when they are ready to turn over?
 
Pretty sure the procedure is detailed in the owners manual, which is available on the Cummins Quick Serve website.

No easy way to tell, just try a start after 10-15 cycles, if it doesn't fire in 3 seconds stop cranking and do another 5-10 cycles.
 
I use plastic “Italian Ice” containers that are about 2 gallon size when changing fuel and oil filters.
They’re robust enough to hold the fluids and filters, flexible enough to squeeze in to spots if needed, and best of all they’re free.
The local chain store washes them out and puts them out for recycling.
Just grabbed 10 more of them last night.
 
I use plastic “Italian Ice” containers that are about 2 gallon size when changing fuel and oil filters.
They’re robust enough to hold the fluids and filters, flexible enough to squeeze in to spots if needed, and best of all they’re free.
The local chain store washes them out and puts them out for recycling.
Just grabbed 10 more of them last night.
I did a bunch of remodeling last winter to my house and saved the dry wall mud containers (had a few of the smaller ones slightly smaller then a paint can) I cleaned out and hung onto. Worked great for the fuel filter changes as well as one of the oil filters.
 
I stole this idea from someone else on the forum but these Folgers cans are amazing. Plastic and have a built in handle with a lid! Ok it won’t let me upload a pic right now but the 31oz Folgers coffee can is the ticket
 
Just got done with maintenance and the gallon ice cream buckets worked well. Just big enough to catch all the fuel from a racor. Also worked well to catch water from changing zincs. 5gal home depot buckets worked well for oil.
 
If it was me, I’d use the gallon ice cream buckets........’cause I’d have to eat the contents first!
 
I did a bunch of remodeling last winter to my house and saved the dry wall mud containers (had a few of the smaller ones slightly smaller then a paint can) I cleaned out and hung onto. Worked great for the fuel filter changes as well as one of the oil filters.

I might have to find a slightly smaller container for the filter on the starboard motor, but other than that the containers I have work well.
 
For those that prefill their filters, you can purchase a PVC plug that roughly fit the threads on the filter. Now when prefilling, every bit of fuel has been filtered.
 
For those that prefill their filters, you can purchase a PVC plug that roughly fit the threads on the filter. Now when prefilling, every bit of fuel has been filtered.

My Cat filters have a “No line” graphic on them through the image of pre-filling the filters.
So far, using the priming pumps on the motors has been simple enough so no need to pre fill.
 
My Cat filters have a “No line” graphic on them through the image of pre-filling the filters.
So far, using the priming pumps on the motors has been simple enough so no need to pre fill.

Exactly because they assume you won't have a plug and the fuel won't be filtered.
 
Fuel.jpeg Thanks everybody. One more question. When priming the new secondary filters with the fuel pump cycling, do you have to bleed the filter? On top there are two bleed ports with allen heads. Do I need to open these until fuel comes out to assure no air?
 
I stole this idea from someone else on the forum but these Folgers cans are amazing. Plastic and have a built in handle with a lid! Ok it won’t let me upload a pic right now but the 31oz Folgers coffee can is the ticket
The Folgers cans are great and last forever. I have been using them for years.
 

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