420 DA Thread

Ok 420-ers....I"m at the boat, and my door to the salon started acting up. Actually, its the top piece that you slide back into the dash, so to speak. When pushing it back, it gets hung up a bit after traveling about 12 inches. I can see that the back of it looks as if it is riding high. If I push down on the piece as it disappears into the dash, I can get it to open fully. The same "hang up" happens when closing.

My question is this: The piece in the picture looks as if it is just "caulked" in. If I cut the caulk this panel will lift up, and completely expose the track into which the top slides. Do I have this correct? Has anyone done this?

Thanks in advance.

Jaybeaux
20190425_135839.jpg
 
My question is this: The piece in the picture looks as if it is just "caulked" in. If I cut the caulk this panel will lift up, and completely expose the track into which the top slides. Do I have this correct? Has anyone done this?
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I refuse to help anyone at the boat when I am at work... :)

That is my understanding.. I havn't done it though. It is also my understanding you can take the screws out of the track that you can reach and it will raise up enough that you can slide the top out over the stop....again havnt done this either... my guess is its probably the top
 
Oh Blueone, or should I say Oh Greatone! Great advice. I was able to do exactly as you said. 6 screws on the Port side with the track and wheels, and 4 screws on the Starboard side. I was able to remove the top! My problem now is the fact that the Starboard Track is broken just under the "cover". That is the source of the binding. So I now need to find if that piece is even available, or I need to take the "top" off as I had initially thought by cutting the caulk, and then gluing and/or adding screws to the broken track. The joys of boat ownership!

Thank you so much for the very GOOD advice.

Jaybeaux
 

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Oh Blueone, or should I say Oh Greatone! Great advice. I was able to do exactly as you said. 6 screws on the Port side with the track and wheels, and 4 screws on the Starboard side. I was able to remove the top! My problem now is the fact that the Starboard Track is broken just under the "cover". That is the source of the binding. So I now need to find if that piece is even available, or I need to take the "top" off as I had initially thought by cutting the caulk, and then gluing and/or adding screws to the broken track. The joys of boat ownership!

Thank you so much for the very GOOD advice.

Jaybeaux

I was able to source the tracks, and the long lip on deal on the front with the chrome triangle piece for locking the hatch for my 410DA from boat outfitters. I don't believe any of them were on the website, but all I did was call them and they had them to me in about a week.

-Tom
 
Thanks TNT....I'll check with them. I think that I am still going to have to unseat the caulked in cap, as the tracks go way back up in there and it is a small gap. Again, thanks for the tip.

Jaybeaux
 
Do you ever have folks sit on that cover? I'm going to make sure that doesn't happen going forward.

I don't have a problem now but if/when I do I'll be coming here for the solution so please post the part numbers and supplier when you find the tracks. Thanks.
 
Thanks TNT....I'll check with them. I think that I am still going to have to unseat the caulked in cap, as the tracks go way back up in there and it is a small gap. Again, thanks for the tip.

Jaybeaux

The parts can be purchased here. https://www.searay-parts.com/Plastic-sliding-hatch-track-p/420dahatchtrack.htm

There is a write up I’ve seen on CSR where all of this was replaced without cutting the top cover off, maybe in the 400/410 thread. It was a two man job with some long drill/drive attachments and I believe a right angle drive adapter. One guy held and placed the drill/drive, the other operated the drill.

I think the opposition to cutting the top off was matching the caulking , and or finding a source.

The top is very similar or identical to the 410, but I’ve never seen a detailed drawing of all the parts. I’m going to have to do this but will likely replace the trucks a the same time. Be nice to see what it looked like new.

Dave
 
Do you ever have folks sit on that cover? I'm going to make sure that doesn't happen going forward.

I don't have a problem now but if/when I do I'll be coming here for the solution so please post the part numbers and supplier when you find the tracks. Thanks.

No, I don't permit that.

dtfeld.....Thanks for the link. The two rails are $210.11. Custom made with no pre-drilled holes. Kinda pricey.

So here's what I did:
1. I cut the caulk, and pulled as much as I could out.
2. I used a boat hook as a pry bar and gently, using my shoulder and legs as the source of the force, worked the "lid" up. It was held down in 5 places with a glob of what I believe is silicone. Two one each side, and one at the front. It was an opaque clear color.
3. I cleaned everything up. 15 years of gunk under there.
4. I attempted to somehow mate the broken pieces up and then put it back together. I believe that my sliding top is a bit warped, because the edge rises up when passing by the point where the guide failed. This is at the last 15 inches of the starboard side rail. The inside of the curve. Well, this attempt didn't work.
5. After looking at how the lid slides in there, I decided to just remove the broken piece, foregoing the last 15 inches of starboard guide. It seems to work just fine.
6. I'm not going to seal everything up just yet. I want to make sure that this temporary solution can work permanently.
7. The Port side has the track wheels. There were two sets: 2 wheels (aft) and 3 wheels (forward). They were the individually set wheels. In other words, each wheel was screwed into the side.

Thanks to all for the help.

Jaybeaux
 
No, I don't permit that.

dtfeld.....Thanks for the link. The two rails are $210.11. Custom made with no pre-drilled holes. Kinda pricey.

So here's what I did:
1. I cut the caulk, and pulled as much as I could out.
2. I used a boat hook as a pry bar and gently, using my shoulder and legs as the source of the force, worked the "lid" up. It was held down in 5 places with a glob of what I believe is silicone. Two one each side, and one at the front. It was an opaque clear color.
3. I cleaned everything up. 15 years of gunk under there.
4. I attempted to somehow mate the broken pieces up and then put it back together. I believe that my sliding top is a bit warped, because the edge rises up when passing by the point where the guide failed. This is at the last 15 inches of the starboard side rail. The inside of the curve. Well, this attempt didn't work.
5. After looking at how the lid slides in there, I decided to just remove the broken piece, foregoing the last 15 inches of starboard guide. It seems to work just fine.
6. I'm not going to seal everything up just yet. I want to make sure that this temporary solution can work permanently.
7. The Port side has the track wheels. There were two sets: 2 wheels (aft) and 3 wheels (forward). They were the individually set wheels. In other words, each wheel was screwed into the side.

Thanks to all for the help.

Jaybeaux

They are pricey for sure, but a rounding error on mine this year. If you took pics or take it back apart, I’d love to see what’s under there.

Mine is missing some small parts that seem to have held the hinge between the top and curved front together. I’m getting rubbing on the gel coat. If I could solve that issue, I might be able to salvage the tracks. For a while.
 
From what I see there is really nothing to it. The lid comes off revealing the sliding hatch. It has tracks on both sides, but only the Port side has "wheels". That track has an upper and lower "guide". The starboard side is just an "L" shaped track that keeps the sliding hatch from riding up. The whole thing slides on heavy "plastic" rails which are affixed to the sliding hatch. In one picture, you can see where I removed that last 15" or so of the starboard track where it broke at a screw. I need to rebed the "lid". That's a project for another weekend.

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Excuse the long shadows in the pictures. The Cormorants where conducting bombing runs last evening and I'm docked in the target zone.
 

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I was walking the Marina in Clearwater Beach and saw a white 2005 420 named Sobremesa. Anyone here? She was beautiful

I think his name was John. I met him a couple time while we were docked there. Nice boat for sure
 
Opened up the floor shower sump after winter storage and found the bilge pump in there and the one behind it in the next step down NOT working. Played with the float switches a million times, jiggled wiring, detached and re-clipped in the pumps themselves. They were both replaced last season and both were operating fine all last season. Before I start unbundling all of the wires that are zip tied nicely to those 2 pumps does anyone else have any ideas?
 
There are breakers for each pump in the engine room just forward of the port engine, check to see if they were switched off for winter?

Both port and stbd batteries switched on and have 12+ volts?
Anything else not working?
 
There are breakers for each pump in the engine room just forward of the port engine, check to see if they were switched off for winter?

Both port and stbd batteries switched on and have 12+ volts?
Anything else not working?

Yes, both battery switches on with plenty of 12 volt power, Everything else working.

About your reference to breakers in the engine room.....I've never seen or certainly never flipped any breaker off that I knew of and I do my own winterization every year. However, I am always learning new things about my boat.......That said, the breakers you're referring to are located inside the large black box mounted to the bulkhead?? I've never gone in there. If not in there, Where/what breakers are you referring to? Where are they exactly? You're saying they are specific breakers to the sump pump float switch and pumps??? Again if you can be VERY specific about location I would much appreciate it. Thanks :)
 
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Yes black box mounted to engine room bulkhead. On it there are a set of battery switches as well as another 20ish switches (breakers) for various 12volt items. I cant say for sure one of them is labeled for those pumps but I am pretty sure they are.
 

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