40 sedan bridge forum

Halon is not manufactured anymore by law, effective 1994. At one time there was enough inventory floating around that you could get a refill. But it seems to be pretty much gone now. The replacement chemical takes about three times as much volume to get the same effect. So a replacement tank will be bigger. Call Sea-Fire and they will inform you of all your options.
Thanks Bill
 
Can anyone tell me what is the bilge pump part number that goes in the shower sump box? 1 inch outlet I’m seeing.
I moved houses yesterday and can’t get to my manual or my boat. The one I ordered is wrong. So Happy Easter to me.
Also Happy Easter to my fellow 400 owners.
 
Can anyone tell me what is the bilge pump part number that goes in the shower sump box? 1 inch outlet I’m seeing.
I moved houses yesterday and can’t get to my manual or my boat. The one I ordered is wrong. So Happy Easter to me.
Also Happy Easter to my fellow 400 owners.
The parts manual says the factory put in the Rule 2000 (2000gph). It has 1 1/8" output pipe on it. I can tell you previous owner of my boat put a smaller one on at some point, but not sure of the size.
 
The parts manual says the factory put in the Rule 2000 (2000gph). It has 1 1/8" output pipe on it. I can tell you previous owner of my boat put a smaller one on at some point, but not sure of the size.

Thank you. I will order the 2000 gph with that outlet.
 
My port motor will only start with the parallel switch engaged. This started at the end of last year so I figured since the boat was new to me and the batteries were a couple years old I would replace the two port group 31 with deep cycle Duracell wet acid from Sam’s club.

This did not solve the problem and after checking for loose or corroded connections and replacing the ignition switch with no luck I hired a mobile diesel mechanic to check it out. His conclusion was the two new batteries are bad after performing a load test on them and his recommendation is to replace with starting batteries. The starter on that motor did draw a couple more amps but he felt that the battery issue was contributing to that.

What is the consensus on deep cycle vs. dual purpose or just plain starting batteries. Also, is there something else I should be checking before exchanging the batteries at Sam’s for two more of the same?
 
My port motor will only start with the parallel switch engaged. This started at the end of last year so I figured since the boat was new to me and the batteries were a couple years old I would replace the two port group 31 with deep cycle Duracell wet acid from Sam’s club.

This did not solve the problem and after checking for loose or corroded connections and replacing the ignition switch with no luck I hired a mobile diesel mechanic to check it out. His conclusion was the two new batteries are bad after performing a load test on them and his recommendation is to replace with starting batteries. The starter on that motor did draw a couple more amps but he felt that the battery issue was contributing to that.

What is the consensus on deep cycle vs. dual purpose or just plain starting batteries. Also, is there something else I should be checking before exchanging the batteries at Sam’s for two more of the same?
I go through port batteries twice as fast as starboard. They also lose water faster. Only thing I can think off is they are right next to the generator and get too hot. Going to buy AGMs next.
 
Looks like I have to crawl into the stern to rework the bonding wire connections to the hull zinc bolts. I'm going to have to remove the macerator hose from the seacock to move it out of the way. As well as the high water float switch. Macerator hose appears to be fused on. I may end up just cutting it. Looks like there is enough slack to do this and reattach the hose.

Has anyone done this?
 
My port motor will only start with the parallel switch engaged. This started at the end of last year so I figured since the boat was new to me and the batteries were a couple years old I would replace the two port group 31 with deep cycle Duracell wet acid from Sam’s club.

This did not solve the problem and after checking for loose or corroded connections and replacing the ignition switch with no luck I hired a mobile diesel mechanic to check it out. His conclusion was the two new batteries are bad after performing a load test on them and his recommendation is to replace with starting batteries. The starter on that motor did draw a couple more amps but he felt that the battery issue was contributing to that.

What is the consensus on deep cycle vs. dual purpose or just plain starting batteries. Also, is there something else I should be checking before exchanging the batteries at Sam’s for two more of the same?

No battery expert, but here’s the battery history on my boat and my experiences with them. When I purchased the boat, the 4 main batteries were a mix of Interstate and Duralast group 27 dual purpose. The gen was an Interstate starting 24 and the thruster had 2 Duralast 27 dual purpose. I had no idea how old they were as the dates weren’t punched out and the po was sketchy on when he bought them. The thruster batteries and the gen battery “looked” fairly new.
I bought 4 Deka marine master 31 dual purpose for the mains immediately after purchasing the boat. Those were what my battery supplier that I have used for years in my business recommended.
Fast forward 5 years. Last fall, before leaving Buffalo to go south, I decided to buy 4 new main batteries and a gen battery because I was going to be living on the boat for 8 months, and in the Bahamas for at least 2 of those months and didn’t want to risk needing to replace batteries on the run and certainly not in the Bahamas $$$. I would not have replaced them were it not for the trip. I bought 4 group 31 US Battery deep cycle (not dual purpose) batteries for the mains, and a Deka marine master starting 24 for the gen. My battery guys thoughts were that because of how I now use the boat, (on the hook or hanging on mooring balls quite a bit) the deep cycle were the way to go, and to keep the 4 mains the same, even though the starboard set is the house. I have had no problems at all with any function of the batteries to date, and have noticed that the deep cycle batteries are handling the charge/draw down cycles a little better than the dual purpose did. I have not had to add any water to the mains since installation last September. They crank the motors fine, BUT, the motors start immediately, I don’t know how they would hold up under longer cranking periods. Last month when I changed the fuel filters, I did have to crank one of the motors for maybe 5 or 6 seconds, and the deep cycle batteries rolled it over no problem.
In a perfect world, or in a bigger engine room, the house batteries wouldn’t start a motor, so pure starting batteries would be best for the motors. If I didn’t hang on the hook a lot, I would have gone with the dual purpose again.
The Duralast thruster batteries are still the ones that were in the boat, at least 7 years old.
FWIW, once a year I switch the port and starboard batteries position so that the port batteries can run the house for a year, don’t know if it helps battery life, but it can’t hurt.

Try switching your batteries, see if the problem goes to the other engine, or stays the same.
Good luck.
 
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I go through port batteries twice as fast as starboard. They also lose water faster. Only thing I can think off is they are right next to the generator and get too hot. Going to buy AGMs next.

If you have the original battery charger, replace it.
 
Alright. I am ready to go in. I had to do the following: move high water float switch out of the way, remove macerator sanitation hose from seacock, remove generator hose from seacock. Some observations along the way: top hose clamp for generator seacock was above the nipple. It was simply crushing the hose at that point. I'll cut that off. Plenty of slack in the hose for that. The macerator hose had to be cut off. There was plenty of slack to just stick it back on.
 

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All done. Got pretty gouged up from the tall macerator seacock hose barb. I barely got my torso over/around it. Previous install of this post was a replacement to the factory use of a bolt. They put on a threaded rod. Made changing the ring terminal easy. I ended up putting a big fat flange washer on. They had used a really tiny washer. Way too small.
 

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All done. Got pretty gouged up from the tall macerator seacock hose barb. I barely got my torso over/around it. Previous install of this post was a replacement to the factory use of a bolt. They put on a threaded rod. Made changing the ring terminal easy. I ended up putting a big fat flange washer on. They had used a really tiny washer. Way too small.
Nicely done. That is not an easy access project.
 
Has anyone installed a Nautley or Hurley dinghy ramp on the swim platform? What size dinghy and was there room in between the transom and dinghy to get your shore power in? Thanks, Greg
 
Has anyone installed a Nautley or Hurley dinghy ramp on the swim platform? What size dinghy and was there room in between the transom and dinghy to get your shore power in? Thanks, Greg
I have the Hurley H2O 10" mount with a 8' 6" aluminum bottom Highfield rib. I get the power cords in and out and can fully open the trunk, with the dingy mounted and inflated.
 
So ok... I now have a dinghy. It is like a 10 ‘ inflatable.
I have Davits on the swim platform. Not sure who’s they are-I will have to post pictures. So I hook the dinghy to the davits and pull the far side up. What do I attach it to?
 
I have the Hurley H2O 10" mount with a 8' 6" aluminum bottom Highfield rib. I get the power cords in and out and can fully open the trunk, with the dingy mounted and inflated.
Do you have any problems with waves from behind when you slow down?
 

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