official 290 Amberjack thread

Bought our first Searay last summer, 2004 290 Amberjack with 350 mag's and bravo 3 drives.
We love this boat for fishing and cruising. We only stayed overnight a couple different weekends. The V Berth is not big enough for me (6'). I will need to add on to berth towards the head i guess.
I put an older Garmin 4210 in the dash with an 18HD radar up top. Fit in dash great.
My port drive has about 6"-7" of slop and i need to do the JRMarine fix before May.
Drives need to be sanded and painted, replace anodes and add prop anode.
I want to add an autopilot but seems i need to switch over to hydraulic steering first.
I want to be able to run either engine when trolling so hydraulic seems like way to go.
Trolling engine is accumulating way more hours because only 1 engine is plumbed for power assist steering.
Looks like about 5 - 6 Canadian boat dollars to add hydraulic steering and autopilot.

When i bought the boat the port motor wouldn't rev up to specs. Guy said he just had a complete tune up done in spring on both engines because starboard wasn't running right. When he ran the boat after tuneup the port engine was lagging. I bought boat anyway and it took 4 hours to run boat home. Boat got up on plane but had to have port engine throttle 3/4 or more to get 3500 rpm and if i pulled back on starboard throttle the port would loose rpm's. I spent many hours trying to figure this out. Got a mechanic to come put his computer on engine and go for ride, but it it never had any codes related to an rpm/loss of power issue. So i kept banging my head off dash trying to figure it out over next couple weeks.
Anyway in the tuneup they replaced rotors,caps,plugs,wires,fuel filters and changed oil. I have receipt for this. I decided to buy new rotor,cap and wires in case they were bad from store. I started with changing out the wires, i didn't just pull one and replace it same way, i pulled wire replaced it and made sure it was same on starboard motor. Well when i got to 7 and 3 wires, i think (it was last summer), they were reversed. I switched them and took boat for a ride. Both motors pulled up equally and ran awesome. I called the mechanic that did the work, needless to stay he said somebody must have been in there messing with wires. Ya right, guy i bought it off of has never had grease on his hands. I just can't figure out why no codes showed up on computer. Anyway both engines run great now.

I fish on the great lakes and seems like a full tank of fresh water does not last a full day when i am constantly washing blood off the deck, top of cooler, swim platform etc. with deck the hose.
I am going to try and splice into a/c fresh water intake and use that for wash down so i would have endless supply. If anyone has did this please fill me in on details.
VHF needs to be replaced, it works but mike cord is a mess.
All in all this boat is in awesome shape but needs a few minor things.

I would love vesselview also but need to get these other things off my list first.
Sorry for the long winded first post.

Glad to see some new activity on this thread! I've narrowed down my search and the 290AJ is at the top of the list to replace my 270AJ!
One I will be looking at has a nasty rust stain from the hot water heater. I was told it's from winterizing it, but the rust stain will drive me nuts, even if it's just cosmetic in the bilge! Any advice on painting the bilge area the standard gray?
Type of paint etc...?
Also, what type of performance can be expected of a 2004 with 5.0 Merc B3 drives?
 
FYI, I did exactly this on my 290AJ. I don't have all the installed pics but here are a few. I used 2 Groco PNC Series check valves so the pump wouldn't pull from the AC and lose prime. Feel free to PM if you have specific questions.
View attachment 66684 View attachment 66685 View attachment 66686
Hey AJSB, that is awesome if you could help me along with this project.
I can pm you but maybe others would want the details here incase they want to do same modification.
So i need a ball valve, 2 Groco PNC series check valves, some hose and clamps.
Now where did you tie into the deck hose at? Did you eliminate the deck hose pulling from fresh water tank or just install a tee with ball valve to shut off pulling from tank? Did you install a separate pump for deck hose or somehow use the same pump, it looks like new, separate pump. If it is a separate pump did you wire it to new breaker and switch?
Sorry for all the questions..

As for performance, my 350 mags with bravo 3's gets up pretty quick. If i can remember correctly i cruise around 30mph @ 3500 rpm. Give or take a bit depending on load. My hull needs a new paint job only because it seems like it's rough from old paint. No bare or worn spots just rough paint. So i would assume a new paint job would give a couple more mph's. Not painting this year though.
Definitely noticed double the fuel usage or more after going from a 23 bowrider with a 5.0 and volvosx drive. But man the boat is sweet for what we do, 60%fish/40%cruise probably.
 
So i need a ball valve, 2 Groco PNC series check valves, some hose and clamps.
Now where did you tie into the deck hose at? Did you eliminate the deck hose pulling from fresh water tank or just install a tee with ball valve to shut off pulling from tank? Did you install a separate pump for deck hose or somehow use the same pump, it looks like new, separate pump. If it is a separate pump did you wire it to new breaker and switch?
Sorry for all the questions..

For my setup I used 2 check valves, a tee fitting, a ball valve, and 2 separate tail pieces. Note the AC technically passes thru both check valves, this was mainly due to the fact I did not have a separate nipple. I will probably move the check valve to the other side of the tee and connect to the strainer using a nipple but thus far I haven’t had any issues with this setup as I don’t run the AC while away from the dock and that’s the only time I’m using the washdown. I added a separate spigot on the starboard side to match the freshwater washdown on the port. I could have used a standard washdown outlet but I like having the ability to turn on and off with spigot. Everything is plumbed using whale 15mm blue tubing and fittings, and connected to Shurflo Pro Washdown 4.0GPM pump. I did install a separate switch at the helm but it does not require one, especially if you’re adding a spigot. It’s tapped into the Accessories breaker under the helm. Here are most of the items with links to a few sites.


Shurflo Pro Washdown Kit 4.0GPM

https://www.anchorexpress.com/SHURF...qMsuCpOeh2q8RGRE_reNwjq4ZrjV9cKhoCiLQQAvD_BwE

¾” Tee

https://www.jamestowndistributors.c...pid=653&familyName=Tee+Fittings+-+Bronze,+NPT

Groco PNC Series Check Valves ¾”

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|2234261|2234268&id=2666284

Groco IBV Series Full Flow Ball Valves ¾”

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/product.cgi?product=138685&group=71477

Groco Bronze Tail Piece ¾”

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/product.cgi?group=100315&product=138605

Perko 90 Degree Pipe to Hose Adapters

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/product.cgi?group=100315&product=138601

Whale 15mm blue tubing and various fittings

https://search.defender.com/?expression=whale 15mm&s=1

Shields 250 Series Water/Exhaust Hose ¾”

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/product.cgi?product=138437&group=112933

Scandvik 10175P Stainless Angled Washdown Spigot

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/product.cgi?product=139360&group=71487
 
Awesome explanation and parts list. I don't think i am going to add a separate spigot and wash down hose. I think i will just tee into existing spigot water line somehow.
Do you just take hoses off at intake to winterize? If you don't take hoses off wouldn't the check valve hold the water in the hose?
I may ask a few more questions after i get some of the stuff here.
 
Hello 290 Thread.....Just picked up my second 290. In 2006 I purchased a new 07 model had it 5 years, twin 5.0 I/O. Last month picked up a 2008 290 AJ with twin 350 mag Seacore with I/O only 129 hours on the motors. I am told this vessel sat for 9 years. Going though the vessel one step at a time new hoses, filters, every o ring you can imagine. The steering I am afraid might has some problems when turning starboard there seems to be a bump or a quick stop turning port is smooth. Any recommendations would be helpful. Thank you Nick
I have a 2003 290 AJ. Sea Star tilt. Had a similar issue. Ordered a rebuild kit on ebay. About $30 bucks or so. Easy job if you are mechanical. There’s a place o
In SW Florida that rebuilds for about $200. Internet search will find the.
 
Jerzey Jeff,
Sorry to hear about the problems you are having with your Windlass..I have heard that the Progress 1 has had a lot of problems in the past. I have had a problem with the "finger spring" used to keep the rode and chain tight. I cant really help you with the electrical part as I havent had to do any yet, but I can show you where I downloaded the manual (if you havent already found it" that might help you with your troubleshooting. I hope its not the motor that has gone bad.. good luck.

http://www.lofrans.com/library
just type in Progress 1 in the title when you search. It will tell you its a retired product.
 
I had this problem on a 2003 29 Amberjack. It tuned out to be the motor studs. Most folks install the cable on the stud and then tighten the nut however there is a nut on the stud right at the motor that must be held with a wrench as the cable and retaining nut is tightened otherwise the stud is twisted out of the motor resulting in a broken connection. I removed the motor from inside the anchor locker. I had a shop in Fort Lauderdale repair the stud. It must be silver soldered due to high electrical load. Works great.
 
290AJ Owners. Throughout the years we've never had a reason to convert the dinette to a sleeper and therefore haven't done it. After spending last weekend on the boat we decided to drop the table and see how it sets up. Can anyone post a pic of their dinette converted and show what filler cushions go where, etc? I'm thinking we don't have all the filler cushions as we couldn't make a complete sleaping area. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
 
I have a 2003 290 AJ. Sea Star tilt. Had a similar issue. Ordered a rebuild kit on ebay. About $30 bucks or so. Easy job if you are mechanical. There’s a place o
In SW Florida that rebuilds for about $200. Internet search will find the.


What kind of rebuild kit is this? My steering does the same thing. Can you send a link to the kit?


Thanks Al
 
I also tried converting the dinette once on my 2003 290 AJ. I had what is likely the same issue. I just made it work, but when you pull the seats toward you, and drop the table, there's a gap that should be filled, it's like i'm missing a piece. I do know that the under stairs berth wall cushions are used, but I only really tried it once. I checked the manual and it doesn't refer to the conversion and we don't normally sleep more than my wife and I on the boat.
 
I have actually used the dinette as a berth a couple of time. When I am down at the boat this weekend, I will set it up and take a couple of pics for the thread.
 
Hello Amberjack thread...I have two problems going on..well one is more of an oddity than a problem..so on my 290 I found that the fuel gauges read opposite..the port side gauge reads the starboard..and vice versa..this isn't right is it?? I'm thinking therest a misconfigured connector..thoughts?

Secondly, iveI joined that sad club of failed..or I'll say intermittent windlass use. It doesn't seem to want work correctly..I have looked at all the threads that have been posted..
I've checked the solonoid..the breaker..so far that seems good..lastly I'm trying to get to the connections on the motor.
If anyone thinks of something else please let me know..thanks guys
 
Hello everyone

New to the forum and just purchased our first boat ‘05 290 AJ Will be physically picking it up next Friday (Longest week ever btw) but I’m sure I’ll have lots of questions. I’ve been doing a lot of reading etc and will be upgrading/replacing electronics. Not sure yet if the sc5000 is DOA or just screen fade but have a post up asking for suggestions on that.

One additional question, I’ve seen a lot of people talking about increasing size or adding down fins to the trim tabs... anyone done this on their amberjack? Beneficial? I’m fortunate enough to have a cnc plasma table and other metal working equipment at home so looking for little things I can do easily to improve efficiency etc.
 
Anyone done the radar arch swivel/hinge. Know what size tubing the arch is? Shop door is only 12’ so may end up hinging the arch to get it in
 
I have to unbolt and hang my radar to get it in my barn. Actually, i clipped an overhead wire bringing boat home last fall, so now i hang it when transporting it. Figuring out how to put a hinge on arch for radar would be a great idea.
 
I’ve read a couple post in doing research on the boat where people were hinging them. Once I get the boat home I’ll measure tubing and sort it out. Be glad to share pics info once I sort it out.
 
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A30A8D9B-9F07-4A79-84F7-24137F63304F.jpeg

Something like that for the rear upright
F7A15EC4-8CF6-44B8-B27A-14A37B502BA3.jpeg

And like that for the front upright. Obviously not this specific exact ones but same concept. Pull a couple bolts and swing arch down. Will also have to make sure any wiring/cables have enough slack to lay it down as well. Makes overall height around 11’ on the trailer


Somewhere I read that some of the taco outrigger fittings work perfectly for this application so we will find out
 

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