420 DA Thread

Ahoy Malloy,
There is a second zipper that runs the full length of the rear of the Bimini. So you could have the rear enclosure on and wouldn't have to take the sun shade down if a rain storm pops up. Takes 3 minutes to put up or down. Two straps are attached to the rear of the sun shade of which I run over a boat hook stuck in the rod holder, the straps then attach to the rear cleat. What's nice is that the height of the sun shade can be adjusted from 8 foot head clearance down to the rear storage box depending on the angle of the sun. It also works well underway at cruise speed. It is the best addition I have made to the boat. The material is actually breathable, but blocks out 92% of the sun. Cost $700.00
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That is a great setup, did you retro fit the canvas and zipper setup or was there a shop that did it for you?
 
Hi All My new to me 2007 44 Sundancer has the KVH M3 Sat system installed. Is there any way to get this old system to work on the newer KVH operating system.I also have a Glomex antenna did Searay install a switch any where on the boat to switch between the two antennas.Thanks

As for whether or not the KVH will work, call KVH tech support - they are fantastic.

As for the switch, it depends on how your system was rigged. On mine they connected the satellite directly to the splitter for the TV's and disconnected the antenna. The factory install put the connected the KVH to the "Cable In" so you could use wired Cable, DirecTV or Antenna.

The antenna control is in the upper aft cabinet on port side of cabin (adjacent to electrical panel). From there you can switch between "cable" and antenna and adjust the gain.

The antenna should pickup HD signals, mine does.
 
Swaterhouse Thanks I called KVH the M3 is obselete the only way to make it work is by connecting it to a J box .I searched on line but could not find anything related to a J box.My Glomex antenna does not appear on my tv input menu. Thanks for your input
 
Swaterhouse Thanks I called KVH the M3 is obselete the only way to make it work is by connecting it to a J box .I searched on line but could not find anything related to a J box.My Glomex antenna does not appear on my tv input menu. Thanks for your input

There are two screws at the top of the electrical panel in the salon, if you remove those you can tilt down the switch panel.

Behind there I had two splitters mounted to the hull, you should see the coax cables coming from the glomex gain switch, the TV's, the dockside cable connection and the KVH.

The cables were all well marked except the KVH, but that was easy to tell since it was the only black cable in the boat.

I suspect yours may have been wired the same way mine was and the glomex was disconnected, I simply removed the KVH wire and connected the glomex and replaced the TV's with new ones that were HD compatible. Lots of posts on here on TV replacement, or you can get an HD converter.

We dont watch much TV on the boat, when we do its mostly for news or the regular broadcast shows. If we want something else we just stream it.
 
The Ides of March, My Dog's Birthday, Spring 2019 Commissioning!!!
Went to the boat today. This is a rundown of work completed!
1. Racors: 2 mains, 1 generator
2. Fuel Filters: 2 mains, 1 generator
3. Seacocks & Strainers: Check
4. Battery water level: Check

Starting order: Generator, Port, Starboard. All GOOD!

Electronics upgrade:
1. Replace GPS antenna (Raymarine) with Vesper Marine
2. Replace VHF antenna
3. Replace original Raymarine VHF with Garmin VHF-300 AIS
4. Add Vesper Marine AIS Transponder XB-8000
5. Add Vesper Marine VHF/AIS Splitter
6. Complete wiring for VHF

Need to complete:
1. Buy Carling (?) Rocker switch to put in blank "Accessory" slot
2. Wire AIS Transponder & Splitter to new Accessory Switch
3. Add NMEA 2000 Cables to all new equipment.

What I thought would be the hardest part (running new GPS and VHF cables from roof & arch to under the helm) actually was the easiest part. Removing and installing the VHF radios was in fact the most difficult, due to access. 20190315_162234.jpg 20190315_162237.jpg 20190315_184459.jpg 20190315_184516.jpg

I was impressed as to how easy removing the helm panel was. Everything was very clearly marked and the connections to all of the gauges was plug & play, so to speak.

If anyone has any specific questions, fire away. Looking forward to being able to see and be seen with AIS.

Jaybeaux
 
I have been upgrading the TV's in the boat I mentioned that earlier here in the thread. 420 DA Thread

Today I finished the master install. I had two options for size this 19" and the next size up that seemed to big for the wall. So going with the smaller one I had this big gap below the TV. The black is speaker fabric over a frame around the DVD player. Not ideal but I think it looks okay. The TV is mounted to the front of a drawer so we don't lose that huge space for storage behind it.

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Stream Netflix or Apple TV off of your phone. Simpler, easier, and cheaper, in my view.

Yes, I would agree, if your goal is movies and entertainment on your TV's while land based. If you need your TV's while out cruising then go for it. My experience with Direct TV using my KVH was negative, cumbersome, and expensive.
 
Finished up the electronic project today. Stopped in West Marine to pick up a "few" items. $160 later!

Added a switch to power the NMEA 2000 Network, AIS, and Splitter.

New VHF gets GPS data from new Antenna over the Network. A picture is worth a thousand words!

20190317_190114.jpg
 
With your new VHS do you still use the external speaker that came with the boat, or is it clear and loud enough to listen to while under way?

I need to replace my Raymarine unit and am looking for alternatives.
 
The Garmin 300 AIS came with a new external speaker. It fit in the same "hole" as the original. I removed the original and put the new one in. What I really like about this new radio is the microphone can be removed from the dash and stored below when not in use. No more sun damaged mic cord. I haven't had the boat out so I can't comment on "listening while underway".

Hope that helps.

Jaybeaux
 
Thanks Ja
The Garmin 300 AIS came with a new external speaker. It fit in the same "hole" as the original. I removed the original and put the new one in. What I really like about this new radio is the microphone can be removed from the dash and stored below when not in use. No more sun damaged mic cord. I haven't had the boat out so I can't comment on "listening while underway".

Hope that helps.

Jaybeaux

Thanks Jay.

I have the standard Raymarine electronics on the boat and I believe you just upgraded all of yours. Can you see any reason why this wouldn't plug and play with what I have? I'm a lake boater so the GPS integration isn't a deal killer for me if that doesn't work.
 
My original radio was the Ray230. Here are the ports on the back of it. Due to age, I replaced the VHF antenna. Maybe it didn't need it, but I figured I might as well. Keep in mind, I didn't change everything out. I kept the Display which I will use as Radar only. The chart plotter aspect of the original equipment doesn't have the resolution that I want/need. I also changed the GPS antenna as the old one sometimes would get a fix, and sometimes wouldn't. After that change out, I "lost" my original RayNav 300. No big deal, it didn't really work anyway. My radar is functional. The only thing I haven't tested is my auto-pilot. I only use it to "hold a heading" as opposed to driving a course. My long term goal is to add a Garmin Chartplotter (either 10" or 12") and rearrange the gauges a bit. Did I answer your question?

Jaybeaux

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My original radio was the Ray230. Here are the ports on the back of it. Due to age, I replaced the VHF antenna. Maybe it didn't need it, but I figured I might as well. Keep in mind, I didn't change everything out. I kept the Display which I will use as Radar only. The chart plotter aspect of the original equipment doesn't have the resolution that I want/need. I also changed the GPS antenna as the old one sometimes would get a fix, and sometimes wouldn't. After that change out, I "lost" my original RayNav 300. No big deal, it didn't really work anyway. My radar is functional. The only thing I haven't tested is my auto-pilot. I only use it to "hold a heading" as opposed to driving a course. My long term goal is to add a Garmin Chartplotter (either 10" or 12") and rearrange the gauges a bit. Did I answer your question?

Jaybeaux

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Yes, a very thorough and appreciated answer Jay. I'll look into that Garmin radio.
 
Prop Q. What is the stock prop spec on a 2005 420 Dancer with CTA 480's? I can't make out from the parts catalog what is what. Specs and then is there a better solution than stock?
 
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Prop Q. What is the stock prop spec on a 2005 420 Dancer with CTA 480's? I can't make out from the parts catalog what is what. Specs and then is there a better solution than stock?
From my manual. I don't know what the H/S or "Z" means

480CE 446HP
22x27x2 4BC nibral H/S

6CTA8.3 417HP
22x25x2 4BC nibral "Z"
 
From my manual. I don't know what the H/S or "Z" means

480CE 446HP
22x27x2 4BC nibral H/S

6CTA8.3 417HP
22x25x2 4BC nibral "Z"
Perfect and thanks! My manual is a general download and I didn’t know how to pick this out. Thanks again.
 
I wouldn't go by the manual anyway, first the boat was likely over propped from day one as sea ray (along with most other manufacturers) prop for light weights and perfect conditions - makes for good boat tests and reviews!

Second, the 480CE can be easily overloaded and has been known to eat valves, Tony Athens at sbmar.com recommends propping the 480CE like the 450C for long term durability.

Its best to do on the water testing with a clean(ish) bottom and fairly loaded up. You want to make sure the engine gets to up to max RPM easily. You should do that using photo tachs not relying on you gauges as they may be off.

Pretty sure on the 480CE you have fuel flow meters, if you do you also want to check fuel flow at WOT and cruising rpm's to make sure your burning the same or less fuel than the Cummins spec for the 450.
 
I wouldn't go by the manual anyway, first the boat was likely over propped from day one as sea ray (along with most other manufacturers) prop for light weights and perfect conditions - makes for good boat tests and reviews!

Second, the 480CE can be easily overloaded and has been known to eat valves, Tony Athens at sbmar.com recommends propping the 480CE like the 450C for long term durability.

Its best to do on the water testing with a clean(ish) bottom and fairly loaded up. You want to make sure the engine gets to up to max RPM easily. You should do that using photo tachs not relying on you gauges as they may be off.

Pretty sure on the 480CE you have fuel flow meters, if you do you also want to check fuel flow at WOT and cruising rpm's to make sure your burning the same or less fuel than the Cummins spec for the 450.
I agree on propping like the 450C... just for comparison I am propped perfect with Ni-Bral four blade 22"x 25"pitch and a "L" cup
 
I wouldn't go by the manual anyway, first the boat was likely over propped from day one as sea ray (along with most other manufacturers) prop for light weights and perfect conditions - makes for good boat tests and reviews!

Second, the 480CE can be easily overloaded and has been known to eat valves, Tony Athens at sbmar.com recommends propping the 480CE like the 450C for long term durability.

Its best to do on the water testing with a clean(ish) bottom and fairly loaded up. You want to make sure the engine gets to up to max RPM easily. You should do that using photo tachs not relying on you gauges as they may be off.

Pretty sure on the 480CE you have fuel flow meters, if you do you also want to check fuel flow at WOT and cruising rpm's to make sure your burning the same or less fuel than the Cummins spec for the 450.
Terrific insight. Thanks
 

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