40 sedan bridge forum

Starting to get a little excited here. My survey and sea trial is scheduled for this Friday. Since I know the owner, and how he cared for the boat, I'm expecting it to go smoothly. We will be doing a short haul to allow the surveyor to do the check of the running gear and the hull. While it's out, it seems like a good time to proactively replace the in-water zincs. Since this will be my first go-around with the 400, I'm looking for insight on where this boat has zincs, and what style they are? I'm coming from a 320DA, which had a big oval (approx 9" across) zinc on the transom, and round (3-4") zincs on each of the trim tabs. What styles of zincs does the 400DB require? Note: I'm not worried about the engine or generator zincs yet.



Here's a video that I took of mine at my purchase haul out to do the same thing. I zoomed in on my own zincs as I walked around the boat. Hope this helps.

 
3 3/4” on the tabs, the 406 Hull anode (5” bolt c/c) nothing on the shafts. Should be the same as your 320
 
So the survey today went quite well. It’s an extremely dry boat and very well-maintained. The only thing of significance was that at WOT the boat only reached 2500 RPM. Full tanks, but winterized water systems (so, empty) and basically empty of supplies. Just the surveyor and me. So not a loaded boat at all. Interestingly, there was no discrepancy between the engines: both of them sat solidly at 2500 RPM. And both engines checked out and every other possible way. So we are pretty sure it’s not an engine issue. The props are Sea Ray OEM, which I believe are 22 x 24 nibral propellers. In this thread far, far above, I read some comments that those props might be a little too much for this boat when loaded. My surveyor thought taking about an inch out of the pitch should allow me to easily get over 2600 even loaded. But he did recommend talking to the local prop shop, too.

Obviously, I’ll figure out what to do based on my conversation with the prop guy. But I am curious what everyone else is running as far as propeller size and pitch on Cummins 6CTA powered boats.
 
Tachs may be off too, but 2500 isn’t good enough. My boat made 2700 during its survey but it had nothing on it, half fuel, no water. Every compartment was empty. It had like 3 bottles of wine, a six pack and life jackets, seriously. But that was the po’s lifestyle, strictly used it as a day boat. Once we got it that changed to 2600, so we took an inch out of the props and got it back to 2700+/-. Now, with our extended cruising lifestyle, loaded down good, we dropped our spare prop set to 22.3 pitch and the boat seems really happy there. I carry the 23’s as spares now. I think that I carry more stuff than most people, even those that cruise a lot, so my 22.3s are most likely an exception.
Any way you look at it though, it is my opinion, these boats are over propped from the factory unless they they are run empty, just like the factory did when they tested them. If the maintenance has been kept up on the boat, the engine tech that did the survey found good fuel pressure and boost numbers, you should be good, but ultimately listen to the Cummins tech that did the motor survey.
 
I don’t have the Cummins, I have the Cats but my tachs were slightly lower than the engines measured out at. The engines were within 25 rpm but tachs were off about 75 rpm.
 
Has anyone replaced a regular 12v light switch with a dimmer switch? Is all the dimming capability built into the switch as it is in a house? For example, i would like to add a dimmer to the switch that control the lights above the galley (forward of the dining table). I see that there are dimmer switches i can buy...just dont know if it will work?

BTW - just got done replacing every single light (sans the rope light under the master bed...still looking for that one) on the boat with LED's...WOW...what a difference..both in brightness (i used the soft white)..and clarity. The boat just looks newer without the "yellow" incandescent bulbs. Also added blue LED's to all the festoon locations at ground level in cockpit and bridge..maybe it will go faster now!! :)
 
Scooper, I dropped my pitch from 24 to 22.7. The prop shop calculated that reduction based on my request to add 125rpm at WOT.
 
Has anyone replaced a regular 12v light switch with a dimmer switch? Is all the dimming capability built into the switch as it is in a house? For example, i would like to add a dimmer to the switch that control the lights above the galley (forward of the dining table). I see that there are dimmer switches i can buy...just dont know if it will work?

BTW - just got done replacing every single light (sans the rope light under the master bed...still looking for that one) on the boat with LED's...WOW...what a difference..both in brightness (i used the soft white)..and clarity. The boat just looks newer without the "yellow" incandescent bulbs. Also added blue LED's to all the festoon locations at ground level in cockpit and bridge..maybe it will go faster now!! :)[/QUOTE
 
I did all of mine last season with the LEDs big difference in power draw and keeps the boat cooler
 
Scooper, I dropped my pitch from 24 to 22.7. The prop shop calculated that reduction based on my request to add 125rpm at WOT.

Yeah, your experience and Mark’s make me think I should take more than an inch out. Definitely confirms not to do this haphazardly and actually speak with the prop tech. The good thing is, I am getting a spare set of props, also 22x24 (identical), with the boat. So I can get them tuned without hauling out. That way I’ll have them in hand when I haul out to get one of the cutlass bearings replaced, minimizing land time. Thanks for the confirmation(s).
 
Mmills, might check if the led lights you installed are dimmable. Many aren't. They are either full on or off.
 
Does anyone know an approximate budget number for new canvas and Strataglass? My top still provides shade, but it does not have much water resistance when it rains. If I'm going to get a new top, figure I might as well go all the way and replace the glass also.

Now that the IRS took their cut, I'm not sure if this is still a feasible 2017 idea....

Thank you!

View attachment 54862

Bryan, where did you get your rod holder on the flybridge? I need to put something on for rod storage. Thanks, Greg
 
Mmills, might check if the led lights you installed are dimmable. Many aren't. They are either full on or off.

Bill - they are dimmable. In my 400 the cockpit lights and the salon lights have "dimmers" (not rotary, but a regular switch that you hold to dim). Those are the ones that i want to put in other slots.
 
Did you replace the light housing or just the bulbs?
Which bulb did you go with?

I just replaced the bulbs, it was a pretty easy process. A tip...if you dont already have a good way to get the light housings down to replace bulbs, try the metal end of a tape measure...it slides right in there and a with a little tug comes right out.

Here are the bulbs i bought. (all from Marinebeam)

42mm (1-11/16") Festoon LED Bulb 6-LED Power Cluster (for the closet lights)
(Output Color: Warm White)
FS-42-06-WW X 4

42mm (1-11/16") Festoon LED Bulb 6-LED Power Cluster
(For all the Cockpit, Bridge and Bridge Steps Lights)
(Output Color: Blue)
FS-42-06-BLU X 9 (you only need 5 I bought extras)

9-LED Back Pin G4 SMD Power Cluster Novi (BP-G4-09X)
(These are for all the lights indoors except under the cabinets)
(Output Color: Warm White)
BP-G4-09X-WW X 41

9-LED Back Pin G4 SMD Power Cluster Novi (BP-G4-09X)
(i bought these thinking I may want blue ones in the cockpit ceiling...i went with white)
(Output Color: Blue)
BP-G4-09X-BLU X 4

Mini Waterproof G4 LED Bulb
(for the under cabinet light)
TW-G4-COB-1.5W X 2
 
I replaced just the bulbs I got them on Amazon G4 LED brand is Kindeep I think it was ten dollars for ten they work great but I do not think they are dimmable
 

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