410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

dtfeld said:
Mine is Grey....
Click to expand...
This is what I had for my '03 410:

Hull gelcoat is "Arctic White", Sea Ray # 1684126 GEL COAT, ARCTIC WHT. Manufacturer Valspar, their part # 5776W90601

Bilge gelcoat is "Oyster" Sea Ray # 1719535 GEL COAT, BILGE OYSTER LOW EMISSION, manufacturer Valspar their part # 5794D90203
 
Looking for a Sundancer. Thank you
 
dtfeld said:
Hey Nevr Say Nevr:

Turns out mine is a 8.5 gal too. I thought it was an 11 gal because the only thing I see for sale is 6 and 11 gal. I don't see an 8.5 anywhere. Of course this has to be the case because replacing with the exact same would be WAY to easy....sigh.

What make model did you go with? How did it fit? Reason I ask is I installed an inverter on top of the current 8.5 gal, so While I have some room, I don't have as much to play with, at least not vertically.

If you have any pics that always helps.

Thanks

Dave
Click to expand...
 
Nevr Say Nevr said:
I put in an 11 gallon Kuuma that had an aluminum tank and exterior. Sorry I don't have any pictures, was to frustrated not not being able to get the old one our without having to remove the exhaust elbow to take pictures. :) The Kuuma is 16Hx16Wx22D. Here is the link.
http://www.discountmarinesupplies.c...rs.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-Y_2-ry34AIVyx6GCh3
Click to expand...

Getting the exhaust tubes out looked like a bitch. I read to just cut the rubber hoses off and replace.

Luckily, I found a bad connection, and replace that. I’ll eventually have to dig it out, there is quite a bit of rust around the base.

Not looking forward to that day.
 
Hello,

I need to purchase running gear anodes for my 2001 diesel, 410 Sundancer. Until recent, my mechanic replaced my worn annodes at spring launch. Now that I am in Florida, I will be replacing my anodes, myself. I order my engine zincs from Zinc.com. I want to order the anodes from them, but I don’t know which ones (size? part #?, heavy or regular?) to order.

I need the large transom anode, trim tabs and shafts. I can’t remember, do our rudders also have anodes?

Does anyone have a list to share with me?

Thanks,

Jeff
 
Dani-Lu said:
Hello,

I need to purchase running gear anodes for my 2001 diesel, 410 Sundancer. Until recent, my mechanic replaced my worn annodes at spring launch. Now that I am in Florida, I will be replacing my anodes, myself. I order my engine zincs from Zinc.com. I want to order the anodes from them, but I don’t know which ones (size? part #?, heavy or regular?) to order.

I need the large transom anode, trim tabs and shafts. I can’t remember, do our rudders also have anodes?

Does anyone have a list to share with me?

Thanks,

Jeff
Click to expand...

I am starting to figure this out, but some questions:

For the shafts, do I need the X-8H (heavy) or X-8 (regular) Zinc Anode?

Trim Tabs - R-3?

Rudders - R-3?

South Bay Strainers - SZ-1
Transom - B-12


Thanks.
 
Dani-Lu said:
I am starting to figure this out, but some questions:

For the shafts, do I need the X-8H (heavy) or X-8 (regular) Zinc Anode?

Trim Tabs - R-3?

Rudders - R-3?

South Bay Strainers - SZ-1
Transom - B-12


Thanks.
Click to expand...
Dani-Lu - here's what I had in my 410's notebook:

Zincs
Source: Carter Chapman/Dom Annunziata


The 2 plugs in the intake manifold are straight thread O-ring, 3/4" -16. Cat part number 8J7844 adapter is 3/4"-16 to 1/4" NPT female.


Westerbeke 7.6 BTD Zinc E-0 (3/8” Dia x 1 ¾” long x 5/16-18 UNC)


Engine Zincs

3 E-0A (3/8”Dia x 2 ½” long x 5/16-18 UNC)

2 E-1E (½” Dia x 1½” long x 3/8-16 UNC)

6 E-OCZ (3/8” Dia x 1 ½” long x ¼-20 UNC)


So far I've only bought the CAT O-rings....cheap enough but still overpriced....I call it my "piece of mind tax"


There are 11 zincs per motor....


Boatzinc.com – Complete zinc anode kit for the Caterpillar 3126 marine diesel engine.
(not for Caterpillar 3126B)


Kit includes the following engine zinc anodes:
Dani-Lu - this table did not format when I copied it - sorry.

QUANTITY

CATERPILLAR PART NUMBER

ENGINE ZINC MODEL

WRENCH

DIAMETER

LENGTH

LOCATION



THREADS

3

6L2283

E-0A

9/16"

3/8"

2-1/2"

Heat
Exchanger

5/16-18 UNC

2

6L2281

E-1E

11/16"

1/2"

1-1/2"

Oil
Cooler

3/8-16 UNC

5

6L3104

E-0CZ

--

3/8"

1-1/2"

After
Cooler

¼-20

UNC

1

6L3104

E-0CZ

--

3/8"

1-1/2"

Exhaust
Elbow

¼-20

UNC



Picture from boatzincs.com. Replacement stainless steel plugs for the 6L3104 anodes in this kit sold separately.



The 3 on the left are in the heat X-changer. 2 on the left side and 1 on the right side of the motor.
The next 2 are for the oil cooler which is mounted on the rear of the motor.
the next 5 are for the aftercooler. 2 on the rear and 3 in the front. In the front, 2 are on top and 1 is on the side.
The last 1 is for the exhaust elbow.

From the factory, they should have 'red' paint on the caps. Hopefully, the PO redid the 'red'. I use a 'red' sharpie and it works well.

Removal:

There is a definite 'technique' to removing the old zinc without losing it from the cap. What I do, is first apply a little torque on the ratchet in the 'tightening' direction - Very little just to break the seal between the zinc and the wall. Then, loosen and hopefully all of what's left of the zinc will come out. Invariably, you 'will' lose a zinc or two and then you will have to go fishing to get it out. Some say you can leave old zincs in the hole, but I prefer to fish them out. Provided that the threads didn't break in the cap, you may be able to get a thin set of long nose pliers in the hole to grab the neck. What I have found that works well is an old piece of the metal edges from an old windshield wiper refill, bent to be a long thin tweezers...YMMV.
You shouldn't need to close the seacocks as no water is in the systems that high.

Replacing:

Do not use any lock tight. You need both an electrical and a mechanical bonding for the zincs to do their job. Grab the zinc rod with a plier and apply just enough torque to secure the rod to the cap. The 5 zincs in the aftercooler use a SS cap with an O-ring. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN those in the hole. Just use enough torque to gently depress the O-ring
 
My tabs were R3750 (top and bottom - two pairs. Sea Ray doesn't recommend shaft anodes, although a lot of folks use them. The Aluminum hull anode is HYAA and I can't find the Zinc P/N - but it is the same on almost all our boats...
 
Dani-Lu said:
I am starting to figure this out, but some questions:

For the shafts, do I need the X-8H (heavy) or X-8 (regular) Zinc Anode?

Trim Tabs - R-3?

Rudders - R-3?

South Bay Strainers - SZ-1
Transom - B-12


Thanks.
Click to expand...

Jeff, I get all my Zincs from Boatzincs.com. They have the complete kits for the Cat 3126’s, you’ll need to reuse the Stainless caps that go in the aftercooler. You can get the replacement O rings from them from a Cat dealer. They’re fairly cheap.I’ve got an extra set of the stainless caps for convenience.
My trim tabs take R3’s, and I use the ZC 406 (B12) on the hull.
I don’t use zincs on the rudders or shafts.
My rudders have no holes drilled in them so they never had Zincs on them.
The previous owner was using zincs on the shafts, but the seasoned Sea Ray guys at the MarineMax where I bought the boat told me that I don’t need them and shouldn’t use them because if they let loose they’ll damage the prop.
I’ll PM you a screenshot of my Boatzincs order from last Spring with their prices and part numbers, I’ll be placing the exact same one in a couple of weeks.
 
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My 400 Express was able to be transported by trailer with the arch in place. I just needed to remove everything from the top of the arch to make the height limit (props did not have to be removed). Transport was from Falmouth, MA to Mystic, CT after a breakdown. Transporter made arrangements, which included chase vehicle and a police escort off of Cape Cod.

IMG_7470.JPG


IMG_7480.JPG


can't get image oriented correctly. Sorry.
 
Fredd said:
Wtb. Looking for a CLEAN 410 must have diesels, Would love it to have hydraulic swim platform but not absolutely necessary Cash buyer! Top dollar paid for right boat!
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Fixed on a 410? I have a DA 400 1998. Great condition. I was not planning on selling, but willing to consider. No hydraulic platform. Fresh water. Cats.
 
Fredd said:
Wtb. Looking for a CLEAN 410 must have diesels, Would love it to have hydraulic swim platform but not absolutely necessary Cash buyer! Top dollar paid for right boat!
Click to expand...

Hadn’t thought about selling, but everything has it’s price and if the right deal came along I might consider another move up. Sure do love the 480 my friend moved up to last season.......could picture myself in one..........
 
JVM225 said:
Jeff, I get all my Zincs from Boatzincs.com. They have the complete kits for the Cat 3126’s, you’ll need to reuse the Stainless caps that go in the aftercooler. You can get the replacement O rings from them from a Cat dealer. They’re fairly cheap.I’ve got an extra set of the stainless caps for convenience.
My trim tabs take R3’s, and I use the ZC 406 (B12) on the hull.
I don’t use zincs on the rudders or shafts.
My rudders have no holes drilled in them so they never had Zincs on them.
The previous owner was using zincs on the shafts, but the seasoned Sea Ray guys at the MarineMax where I bought the boat told me that I don’t need them and shouldn’t use them because if they let loose they’ll damage the prop.
I’ll PM you a screenshot of my Boatzincs order from last Spring with their prices and part numbers, I’ll be placing the exact same one in a couple of weeks.
Click to expand...

John,

I was planning to remove the zincs from my shafts, as per your above message. But when I went under boat to take mine off, they were very eaten up. When I put the alllen wrench into the screw, the zincs practically disintegrated. I didn’t even need to use the allen wrench. I would think if they are getting eaten up, they must be protecting something? I am no expert in this area, but better safe than sorry. I cleaned the shafts with a stainless steel brush, put the Zinc.com locktight on the screws and installed 2 new shaft zincs.

It would be good to hear what others are doing with regard to the shaft zincs. Also, are the zinc shafts supposed to protect the shafts, props, my nuts :) ?

Thanks
 
While working on our boat in storage I noticed some marine growth in some of the water intakes. Some is barnacles, but there are sizable clam or mussel shells as well. I used a screwdriver to tap out what I could, but would like to get the rest out.

I looked at the intake skuppers and didn't see any screws, so I assume that they are bonded on. Has anyone dealt with this before?

I've read the threads here about using various acid products, but with the boat in storage I don't have good access to water to flush it off. I also would have the spray the acid up through the grates and get it to stick - doesn't seem safe or practical.

I'm thinking about trying to remove the hoses and open the seacocks, and go in from the inside with a scraper or screwdriver. The engine intakes are way at the back of the engine compartment, so not sure if I will fit back there.

Thoughts on how to approach this?
 
yobub said:
While working on our boat in storage I noticed some marine growth in some of the water intakes. Some is barnacles, but there are sizable clam or mussel shells as well. I used a screwdriver to tap out what I could, but would like to get the rest out.

I looked at the intake skuppers and didn't see any screws, so I assume that they are bonded on. Has anyone dealt with this before?

I've read the threads here about using various acid products, but with the boat in storage I don't have good access to water to flush it off. I also would have the spray the acid up through the grates and get it to stick - doesn't seem safe or practical.

I'm thinking about trying to remove the hoses and open the seacocks, and go in from the inside with a scraper or screwdriver. The engine intakes are way at the back of the engine compartment, so not sure if I will fit back there.

Thoughts on how to approach this?
Click to expand...

Yobub. You should have strainers for each engine intake just like you do for your A/C. All I do remove those baskets, and my marina has an acid wash station where we can boil them if they're really bad. Usually I can get them clean with an old toothbrush, some Simple Green, and water. As for the scuppers, I just use whatever I can fit up there to loosen the debris, but remember once you put the boat back in the water they're headed straight towards your strainers again. I even found a live 3" long fish in one of the strainers once. No telling how long it had been in there.

-Tom
 
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Dani-Lu said:
John,

I was planning to remove the zincs from my shafts, as per your above message. But when I went under boat to take mine off, they were very eaten up. When I put the alllen wrench into the screw, the zincs practically disintegrated. I didn’t even need to use the allen wrench. I would think if they are getting eaten up, they must be protecting something? I am no expert in this area, but better safe than sorry. I cleaned the shafts with a stainless steel brush, put the Zinc.com locktight on the screws and installed 2 new shaft zincs.

It would be good to hear what others are doing with regard to the shaft zincs. Also, are the zinc shafts supposed to protect the shafts, props, my nuts :) ?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Jeff,
I can only say that I followed the Westbrook MarineMax mechanic’s advice and only used the correct hull anode and the rudder anodes on the tabs. Nothing else on anything underwater.
I’ve done it for the 2017 and 2018 seasons and didn’t have any corrosion issues. The hull and tab zincs were worn after each season, but not excessively so.
This year I’m going to follow Bennett’s advice and only use a zinc on the top side of the tabs.
I’m far from an expert on galvanic corrosion, but if you have some time to kill you may want to remove, clean, and reinstall all the green wire bonding connections down in the bilge.
I did that as soon as I got the boat, and will likely do it again this season or next.
Conditions may be different for you now down in Florida. Maybe Captain Rusty or Frank W can advise you about the shaft zincs.
 
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