420 DA Thread

Caseclosed said:
We are excited just closed on new to us 2007 44 Sundancer.Will be running her from Ft Lauderdale this Saturday to our home port Punta Gorda Fl.View attachment 64964 View attachment 64965 View attachment 64966 View attachment 64967 View attachment 64968
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I see you have a hydraulic platform with jet ski (I do too), this will also change your loading significantly. You have 500lbs lift plus approx 500lbs ski hanging way aft... I believe I am running 22 x 24 (2650) but remember I am running 450c motors not the 500’s like you
 
Larry I don't. But I can tell you the brand is imprinted right on the black plastic manifold itself. It's really nothing more than a black plastic tube screwed into the wall with a bunch of pex fittings screwed to it. Just turn off the 2 valves (hot and cold) that go to it, unscrew it from the wall and unscrew the plastic pex fittings. I Google searched the brand, measured the length of my manifold, matched the image in the picture and ordered it. Perfect fit....no more leak.
 
Caseclosed said:
During sea trial we had 4 persons full water and 160 Gal. of fuel.Plus owners personal stuff.Top speed hit 28.9 Kt Fuel burn not listed on survey.
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Congrats on the purchase, these are fantastic boats!


Your pretty close to where I started at survey, I was able to get slightly more RPM but I had lighter load (zero personal gear, about the same fuel and no water/black water). No matter what you are over propped and need to drop pitch for the long term health of the engines.

I am now running 22x26 with 0.046" Cup. I would drop the 1" of pitch immediately then watch your burn and/or loads while loaded the way you normally cruise.

The key is to get all your burn numbers less than the specs for the QSC:

RPM Gal\Hr
2600 25.4
2400 20.1
2200 15.7
2000 12.2
1800 9.4
1600 7
1400 5
1200 3.3
1000 2.1
800 1.3

Obviously the most important range is the cruising range (1800 to 2400).
 
hynespa said:
JANUARY 2019 UPDATE - Just an update - I finally got around to pulling new 12V and HDMI from the power panel area to the area above the microwave. Here are some details:

1) View attachment 63892 - I bought this HDMI splitter from amazon for $32.00. It runs off of USB power, so I installed a 12v to USB converter so I could run off the battery and not the generator. The idea is that I can now pre-download movies to our iPhone or iPad, plug the phone into this with the Apple Lightening to HDMI adapter and show the movies on all 4 TV's on the boat. I am also going to have inputs so I can have the Fusion DVD player as a source as well as the Raymarine eS127 display as a potential source.

2) View attachment 63893 - I bought this Wireless Endoscopic Camera off Amazon for $35.99. It streams to my iPhone or iPad, so I can feed it into one of the small openings on the boat and get a view of what is on the other side. I felt it was key to have this to feed my new 12v and HDMI cables across the ceiling.
3) View attachment 63894View attachment 63895View attachment 63896View attachment 63897 - I used the Endoscopic Camera along with some standard Home Depot fishing tape so get a guide string from 1) the port salon light fixture to the power panel 2) from the port salon fixture to the starboard salon fixture 3) from the starboard salon fixture to above the galley microwave. It took some careful tries and some help from my 14yo and 12yo kids, but the camera and fishing tape really helped do it and made sure we were feeding things in the right direction.

4) I put my 2x 12v wires (one for galley TV / one for master stateroom TV) into a 1/2" Ancor split loom purchased from West Marine, and then put my 2x HDMI, 1x CAT5, 1x speaker wire into a 3/4" Ancor split loom. The 12v leads will be used to directly power the Samsung TV's using the uxcell Power Converter mentioned in the previous post.

5) I used the guide wire to push/pull everything starting from the area above the microwave, using the light fixtures as intermediate stops so it didn't get hung up on anything, all the way back to the power panel.

I ran out of time before being able to finish the hookup - but the most daunting part for me is over - how to get the wires / HDMI from the port power panel to the starboard galley!!
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I got back to the boat this weekend. The new Salon Samsung fold down TV has now been rewired to run directly off of 12V instead of 120V. See original post:

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/420-da-thread.1273/page-62#post-1000978

Here are some pics:

1) Screen Shot 2019-02-10 at 7.48.50 PM.png I mounted the ($19.99 from Amazon) "uxcell Power Converter Regulator DC12V(10V~16V) Step-Up to DC19V 8A 152W Waterproof Voltage Convert Transformer" which I purchased back in July - but only finally finished installed and securing today! It is mounted to the ceiling above the fold down TV. Now the Samsung will run off of 12V and so I don't have to worry about always starting the generator to have TV when off the dock! This draw far fewer amps than if I tried to run the TV off an inverter.

2) Screen Shot 2019-02-10 at 7.54.57 PM.png The converter is powered on/off by the "SATELLITE TV SYSTEM" circuit breaker which is only on when I am on the boat.

3) Screen Shot 2019-02-10 at 7.57.46 PM.png - With the Apple Lightning to HDMI converter I can play anything from my iPhone / iPad to the fold down galley TV. This includes any movies downloaded, or even showing Club Sea Ray!

My next step is to install the TOSLINK to RCA converter that @ttmott recommended so that I can get the audio out from the TV into the Fusion stereo.
 
Happy to report moving the boat from Ft lauderdale to my home port Punta Gorda fl this weekend went very well encountered 3 hrs of 3-5 foot seas and I am very impressed with how the boat performed in these conditions.13 hr total run time burned a total of 422 Gal. with the Gen set running.Averaged 32.4 Gal per hr mostly running 2010-2150 rpm.Average speed was between 20 kts -21.5.I think I can improve the fuel burn by having the Props worked.
 
Swaterhouse Thank you for your prop specs.What is your WOT rpm with these props.
 
My WOT is 2665 RPM which is the max the governor will allow. At 2665 I am running at about 93% load with full fuel and water and loaded for a long weekend.

Think you said the boat was fresh water until recently. I suggest you get the aftercoolers inspected and cleaned sooner rather than later. If you can't take them apart because of corrosion they need to be replaced. It's something that should be done every two years. If your handy you can DIY for the cost of some grease and o-rings. The Cummins o-rings are like $400 but you can get them at sbmar.com for $75. This is the weak link in the QSC.
 
Thanks Yes I plan on doing after coolers and all heat exchanges and coolers.running temps were steady 175 for the entire trip.
 
Does anyone have the parts and service manual they can upload for the Kohler 10EG? Thanks!
 
hynespa said:
@3fouroh - this is all I have.
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Actually upon further review what you posted was the 10E specs. As opposed to a 10EG (which is totally different). I guess in the '05 that was what was installed. In my '06 it is the EG. I have attached the specs for it if anyone needs them.
 

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  • Generator Kohler 10EG specs.pdf
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I will also attach the spares list with part numbers for the normal mx stuff for you guys for the 10EG.
 

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  • Kohler 10EG spares & parts.png
    Kohler 10EG spares & parts.png
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Hey guys I got the parts, service, and operation manuals from Kohler for the 10EG generator. I tried to upload it here but the files are too big. They are 8MB and 6MB. So I uploaded them to the Sea Ray 420/44 Facebook page. If anyone wants them they can get them over there.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/214337009472132/
 
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hynespa said:
I got back to the boat this weekend. The new Salon Samsung fold down TV has now been rewired to run directly off of 12V instead of 120V. See original post:

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/420-da-thread.1273/page-62#post-1000978

Here are some pics:

1) View attachment 65084 I mounted the ($19.99 from Amazon) "uxcell Power Converter Regulator DC12V(10V~16V) Step-Up to DC19V 8A 152W Waterproof Voltage Convert Transformer" which I purchased back in July - but only finally finished installed and securing today! It is mounted to the ceiling above the fold down TV. Now the Samsung will run off of 12V and so I don't have to worry about always starting the generator to have TV when off the dock! This draw far fewer amps than if I tried to run the TV off an inverter.

2) View attachment 65085 The converter is powered on/off by the "SATELLITE TV SYSTEM" circuit breaker which is only on when I am on the boat.

3) View attachment 65086 - With the Apple Lightning to HDMI converter I can play anything from my iPhone / iPad to the fold down galley TV. This includes any movies downloaded, or even showing Club Sea Ray!

My next step is to install the TOSLINK to RCA converter that @ttmott recommended so that I can get the audio out from the TV into the Fusion stereo.
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What size TV is that for the salon ?
 
OPERATING IN SALT WATER QUESTION -

My 420 Sundancer is located in the Pacific Ocean (salt water). The Mercury engine manual states at "each day end":
  • If operating in salt, brackish or polluted waters, flush the cooling system after each use.
The manual (Section 5 / Page 71) goes on to specify that the following 14 steps are to be used at the end of each day that the boat is used in salt water:
  1. Close the seacock, if equipped, then disconnect the seawater inlet hose to prevent water from siphoning into the engine or boat.
  2. If not equipped with a seacock, disconnect the seawater inlet hose from the seawater pump, and immediately plug the hose to prevent water from siphoning into the engine or boat.
  3. Using a suitable adapter, connect the flushing hose from the water source to the water inlet of the seawater pump.
  4. Completely open the water source to provide maximum water supply.
  5. Place the remote control in the neutral idle speed position.
  6. Immediately start the engine.
  7. Depress the throttle‐only button and slowly advance the throttle until the engine reaches 1300 RPM (± 100 RPM).
  8. Observe the water temperature gauge to ensure that the engine is operating in the normal range.
  9. Operate the engine with the transmission in neutral for a minimum of 10 minutes.
  10. For power packages operated in salty, brackish, mineral‐laden, or polluted water: Continue to operate the engine until the discharge water is clear.
  11. Slowly return the throttle to idle speed position.
  12. Stop the engine.
  13. Immediately shut off the supply water and remove the flushing attachment.
  14. Tag the ignition switch with an appropriate tag requiring the seacock to be opened or the seawater inlet hose to be reconnected prior to operating the engine.
My reaction upon reading this was SERIOUSLY - YOU HAVE TO BE F****** KIDDING ME?!

Has anybody on this forum who operates in Salt Water ever tried to do this (let alone do this every time they operate the boat in salt water). If so - how long does these 14 steps take to complete (twice - once for each engine!) and what tools / equipment do you need each and every time?

From an engineering standpoint - it would seem that if they ever expected their advice to be taken seriously they should have installed a switch at the cockpit that operates a valve that moves the water intakes from the seacock to the fresh water tank. Unless somebody has a full time crew - I can't see anybody using the boat recreationally honestly doing this.

I see an opportunity for an entrepreneur with an engineering background to create a mechanism that does steps 1-4 with a push of a button ....
 
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