410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

Cocktail Time said:
Guys, thanks for the info on replacing the stbd fuel sender. That was one of the easier projects I've done. It helps to be inside, warm and have two built in lights right there at the tank opening! The port side looks like a real pain in the ass. Let's hope that one lasts a lot longer. Thanks again.
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Port side is easy also; below one of those plastic covers inside the locker next to the ice-maker.
 
Has anyone removed the textured top dash pad (where the compass is mounted) I’d like to have it painted or wrapped in vinyl ... how does it come off ?
 
RanDom32 said:
Has anyone removed the textured top dash pad (where the compass is mounted) I’d like to have it painted or wrapped in vinyl ... how does it come off ?
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I have a 400 DA and I think I know what you're talking about. I have removed mine for probably the same reason you're looking for. The dash pad on mine is just pressed onto wood screws. There are mating holes in the pad. I just carefully put a screw driver under the dash pad and pride up. It comes off very easy. My dash pad is white, so I went to AutoZone and found white spray paint for dashboards. You will have to somehow exactly match your color. See pic, hope this helps.

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dtfeld said:
Anybody replace the water heater in a 2000'ish 410 w/CAT's? My water heater has been weeping water for a while now (looks original, so somebody got their money's worth), and looks like its time to replace.

Im trying to decide how many items need to come out to get to it. Looks like the exhaust on the port side, plus maybe the cast exhaust elbow?

Pointer and tips appreciated.
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Dtfeld, I replaced mine last fall. My original hw tank was 8 gallons and measured 15x15x15. Yes I had to remove the cast exhaust elbow. I was lucky and saved the gasket that attaches to the turbo. I went with an 11 gallon hw tank for a replacement, I had the extra room so I figured why not.
 
Hey Nwvr say Nevr Thanks!!

Nevr Say Nevr said:
Dtfeld, I replaced mine last fall. My original hw tank was 8 gallons and measured 15x15x15. Yes I had to remove the cast exhaust elbow. I was lucky and saved the gasket that attaches to the turbo. I went with an 11 gallon hw tank for a replacement, I had the extra room so I figured why not.
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I was afraid that was going to have to come out. Mine is already an 11 gal, so its pretty big. Ah more fun!!

I wish I would have known I would have ordered that gasket, just ordered all new raw water hoses and it shipped today. Part is only $12. Not going to fool around not replacing that.

I think this is it?? #9?

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Speaking of more fun... I replaced the generator muffler today with a dual stage from Centek. This trick to this job is 1) remove the 2x4 support behind the starboard engine to gain access, and 2) make sure you have a heat gun and a hose removal tool.

It was a bitch getting in and undoing the hoses, they are likely original. The new muffler is slightly larger, so it wont fit in the cutout for the smaller 6"x9 but one side can be mounted on the stringer, and I'm going to add a 2x4 under the other side.

Additionally, the top outlet is taller, so I had to remove a bout a 6" section of hose.

The good news, it doesnt sound like a farmall tractor anymore!!!! SO MUCH BETTER!!!

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2x4 make a perfect support for the back edge

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midexp said:
I have a 400 DA and I think I know what you're talking about. I have removed mine for probably the same reason you're looking for. The dash pad on mine is just pressed onto wood screws. There are mating holes in the pad. I just carefully put a screw driver under the dash pad and pride up. It comes off very easy. My dash pad is white, so I went to AutoZone and found white spray paint for dashboards. You will have to somehow exactly match your color. See pic, hope this helps.

View attachment 64727
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Thanks for the reply! Mines White as well, just has some sun damage on the corners, I was afraid to break it , but I'll give it a try
 
dtfeld said:
Speaking of more fun... I replaced the generator muffler today with a dual stage from Centek. This trick to this job is 1) remove the 2x4 support behind the starboard engine to gain access, and 2) make sure you have a heat gun and a hose removal tool.

It was a bitch getting in and undoing the hoses, they are likely original. The new muffler is slightly larger, so it wont fit in the cutout for the smaller 6"x9 but one side can be mounted on the stringer, and I'm going to add a 2x4 under the other side.

Additionally, the top outlet is taller, so I had to remove a bout a 6" section of hose.

The good news, it doesnt sound like a farmall tractor anymore!!!! SO MUCH BETTER!!!

View attachment 64761
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Silly question - did you not have any accessories mounted to that 2x4 support? I've considered doing the same for my own generator maintenance but I have a fuel filter and some electronics attached to that silly support....
 
Stee6043 said:
Silly question - did you not have any accessories mounted to that 2x4 support? I've considered doing the same for my own generator maintenance but I have a fuel filter and some electronics attached to that silly support....
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Thank god no!!! There are 2 of the one each side. They severely restricts access to the back of the engines, generator and black water tank and other necessary items.

I was looking at that just now. It like to fashion a stainless pole that could be easily removed and replaced. Maybe a couple clevises at each end and a jack screw in the middle.
 
Nevr Say Nevr said:
Dtfeld, I replaced mine last fall. My original hw tank was 8 gallons and measured 15x15x15. Yes I had to remove the cast exhaust elbow. I was lucky and saved the gasket that attaches to the turbo. I went with an 11 gallon hw tank for a replacement, I had the extra room so I figured why not.
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Hey Nevr Say Nevr:

Turns out mine is a 8.5 gal too. I thought it was an 11 gal because the only thing I see for sale is 6 and 11 gal. I don't see an 8.5 anywhere. Of course this has to be the case because replacing with the exact same would be WAY to easy....sigh.

What make model did you go with? How did it fit? Reason I ask is I installed an inverter on top of the current 8.5 gal, so While I have some room, I don't have as much to play with, at least not vertically.

If you have any pics that always helps.

Thanks

Dave
 
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neighbor replaced his ancient head yesterday and put in a jabsco elongated bowl like you would have at a house. Has anyone changed out the bowl in the forward head with an elongated one? If so, what model/parts did you need?
 
Anyone have an old set of original tachs they want to get rid of.
Seriously considering the Aetna digital tachs as an upgrade this season and would like to preserve the originals to document engine hours.
Rather than replace the whole panel, I would like to place the Aetna tachs inside original housings like Tom (TNT8008) did on his old boat. I think they came out looking really sharp.
 
Wtb. Looking for a CLEAN 410 must have diesels, Would love it to have hydraulic swim platform but not absolutely necessary Cash buyer! Top dollar paid for right boat!
 
JVM225 said:
Anyone have an old set of original tachs they want to get rid of.
Seriously considering the Aetna digital tachs as an upgrade this season and would like to preserve the originals to document engine hours.
Rather than replace the whole panel, I would like to place the Aetna tachs inside original housings like Tom (TNT8008) did on his old boat. I think they came out looking really sharp.
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I did this project last winter with a lot of help from Tom (thread here: http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/tachometer.81913/page-2#post-991079). You really don't need a separate set of tachs as you're just repurposing the housing ("cans"). You'll still have the old "guts" if you really wanted to verify hours. All I did was write the hours on the inside of the can. But I always remember I had 723 hours as coincidentally that's my mom's birthday.
 
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