40 sedan bridge forum

TotallyGross said:
Why do my pics flip upside down when I load one?
My real question was the middle switch marked salon in the first 3 gang inside the door controls what light? It's a 2002 if that matters...
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That's the step light on the galley steps. On my boat it says "indirect". It's a three way switch. The other one is on the companionway wall switch plate.

Regarding pics. I have same problem with my iPhone pics. I edit them on the phone and just crop them a tad and the problem goes away when the picture is saved, for some reason.
 
Im in the market for a 400, likely 02 or 03. I’ve noticed many still have the original electronics, often Raymarine rm300, rl80, vhf and autopilot. Can you easily update these components, piece by piece, or do you have to update the whole suite? I know how to update most of these items... it’s maintaining auto pilot functionality that concerns me. If you get a new MFD/radar package, can it still work with the orig auto pilot? Are costly adapter boxes needed? Is it cheaper and easier to just get a new AP computer? What’s the right approach, to keep all the functions working?
 
scooper321 said:
Im in the market for a 400, likely 02 or 03. I’ve noticed many still have the original electronics, often Raymarine rm300, rl80, vhf and autopilot. Can you easily update these components, piece by piece, or do you have to update the whole suite? I know how to update most of these items... it’s maintaining auto pilot functionality that concerns me. If you get a new MFD/radar package, can it still work with the orig auto pilot? Are costly adapter boxes needed? Is it cheaper and easier to just get a new AP computer? What’s the right approach, to keep all the functions working?
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The autopilot communications path with the chart plotter is via NMEA0183. That's just two wires. So you can replace your chartplotter, radar, vhf, rn300 with anything you want. Then just connect the new chart plotter to existing autopilot with NMEA. Lots of people on here have done that with a variety of new products. Some did Raymarine, some did Garmin, some did Furuno, some did Simrad.
 
ZZ13 said:
The autopilot communications path with the chart plotter is via NMEA0183. That's just two wires. So you can replace your chartplotter, radar, vhf, rn300 with anything you want. Then just connect the new chart plotter to existing autopilot with NMEA. Lots of people on here have done that with a variety of new products. Some did Raymarine, some did Garmin, some did Furuno, some did Simrad.
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Thanks! So just make sure whatever plotter one’s gets, it needs an NMEA0183 interface on it!
 
I went out to boat today to pump all remaining water out of tank. After emptying the fresh water tank I poured 15 gallons of RV/Marine antifreeze into tank. My idea was to pump antifreeze thru all water lines, however, I couldn’t get the pumps to prime.
I turned both water pump switches on and both pumps feel as though they are running. I did notice they sounded different, when I turned on pump 1 it started, the second pump felt like it was running also.
 
After you turn the pumps on open one of the facets that should prime the pumps
 
k9medic said:
Are you looking for this seat? If so I have one I pulled out of my boat.

260754.5bf8786e95367f5384ac463c.xl.jpg
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Yes! That one!
 
PMC said:
No issues of overheating, but amps is amps, exceeding 30 and the breaker trips......You can manage power, and mostly that means turn off the water heater. I replaced with a 1000w convection (Cuisinart CMW-200) and needed to trim the baseplate on the tablesaw to fit.
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TexasBryan said:
Our old Sharp convection/microwave oven (Model R-820BK) seems to have gone dead.

Any idea what a good replacement unit is?

The R-820 was a 900 Watt, 13 Amp unit. Most of the potential replacements that I have found run 1000 Watts or more and draw 14+ amps. Is a higher power unit likely to cause electrical problems? Overheating issues?

Any cautions with "Inverter" microwave or other cross-over units?

Thank you!
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I agree with what the others have said on this, “amps are amps” and math is absolute... with that said, you’ll find on this thread that we replaced ours with a 1100W Panasonic unit, which works great on shore power and/or generator

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DPZD2MO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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We went with the next size smaller Panasonic that is 950W at full power. With the new inverter technology, it draws less amps when it is not set to cook at full power. Plenty big and powerful enough for anything we are warming up on the boat.

Tigger, thanks again for your how-to guide. I was especially worried about removing the trim, but since I knew what fasteners were used, the trim removal and replacement was a non-issue. Once the refrigerator was out, I was pleased to find that the coils and entire space behind the appliance was remarkably clean.
 
scooper321 said:
Im in the market for a 400, likely 02 or 03. I’ve noticed many still have the original electronics, often Raymarine rm300, rl80, vhf and autopilot. Can you easily update these components, piece by piece, or do you have to update the whole suite? I know how to update most of these items... it’s maintaining auto pilot functionality that concerns me. If you get a new MFD/radar package, can it still work with the orig auto pilot? Are costly adapter boxes needed? Is it cheaper and easier to just get a new AP computer? What’s the right approach, to keep all the functions working?
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I have a bristol '01 400 DB Cummins diesels that will be on the market shortly. Many upgrades. If you are interested contact me.
 
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PartnerShip said:
I have a bristle '01 400 DB Cummins diesels that will be on the market shortly. Many upgrades. If you are interested contact me.
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I’m not exactly sure what bristle means in this context, but if you have a nice 400, I’d be interested in learning about it.
 
Hey all you experienced guys and gals,
I have the black salon windshield cover on my 400. It isn't see through.
Does anyone have another cover that they can see through. I heard from the previous owner that the black canvas seems to really heat up the interior. Just wondering what other people have that they can see through but still provides privacy. TIA
 
TotallyGross said:
Hey all you experienced guys and gals,
I have the black salon windshield cover on my 400. It isn't see through.
Does anyone have another cover that they can see through. I heard from the previous owner that the black canvas seems to really heat up the interior. Just wondering what other people have that they can see through but still provides privacy. TIA
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My boat had the black mesh cover when I bought it. I then had a solid black cover made. I wanted to do it in white to reflect the sun but the canvas guy talked me into black sunbrella because he said that lasts the longest and the white gets dirty looking quickly and breaks down faster. Wish I had gone with the white. The heat transfer from the sunbrella into the cabin is pretty substantial. I am now going to experiment with a perforated white vinyl film that sticks onto the outside of the glass (I have it on my side windows). Then use the solid black to cover in the cooler months when I need heat inside.
 
TotallyGross said:
Hey all you experienced guys and gals,
I have the black salon windshield cover on my 400. It isn't see through.
Does anyone have another cover that they can see through. I heard from the previous owner that the black canvas seems to really heat up the interior. Just wondering what other people have that they can see through but still provides privacy. TIA
Click to expand...

I had a new shade made with Phifertex (black mesh weave). I went with 70% infill, to still allow visability through and have privacy. In my parts (long island) it helps significantly with heat management. However, to do it over again, i would use the 90% weave. I want a little more privacy, and found 90% still good to see through.


I have a friend that makes canvas and has the 400db windshield template (from my boat). Id be happy to pass a name across if anybody wants.
 
I also have 70 percent, I feel about the same as PMC. Privacy is fine until the lights go on, then it’s like it’s not there.
Heat isn’t an issue for us, rarely see warmer daytime temps than 85 up home in the summer and down here in Fl in the winter.
We also have the black sunbrella canvas cover for it. I put it on once and was told that if she didn’t want the light to come in we could have kept our last boat. It’s home in the garage with the lounger for the bow, the cushions for the sun pad, the extra cushions to make the 2nd state room bed into a double, and one of those little stools/ottomans that go with the hi-lo salon table.
 
My old 400 had the black mesh window cover also. I went a different route and had the boat windows tinted by a local window tint business. I don't remember the density of the window tint, but it was dark....almost blacked out. It worked great in controlling the heat. I had all the windows tinted including the rear sliding door. It gave the boat a nice look and cooled the boat down nicely. I believe the window tint for the entire boat was around $700, which is less than a new window screen.
 
The crime scene said:
My old 400 had the black mesh window cover also. I went a different route and had the boat windows tinted by a local window tint business. I don't remember the density of the window tint, but it was dark....almost blacked out. It worked great in controlling the heat. I had all the windows tinted including the rear sliding door. It gave the boat a nice look and cooled the boat down nicely. I believe the window tint for the entire boat was around $700, which is less than a new window screen.
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I will look into this as an option as well. They now make tint that really stops heat transfer.
 
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