Dinghy/PWC Weight Limit - 450 DA Hydraulic Platforn

carwasher714

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Aug 18, 2018
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Hello everyone! I have a 450 Sundancer and was wondering what’s the weight limit for a tender/pwc to really achieve an optimal ride/performance. I better disclose that this is on a hydraulic swim platform. Of course there’s a big difference between dry weight on the tender so I guess for purposes of this discussion let’s talk dry weight. Thanks!!
 
Hello everyone! I have a 450 Sundancer and was wondering what’s the weight limit for a tender/pwc to really achieve an optimal ride/performance. I better disclose that this is on a hydraulic swim platform. Of course there’s a big difference between dry weight on the tender so I guess for purposes of this discussion let’s talk dry weight. Thanks!!
First you should determine the manufacturer of the swim platform. Then look them up online and/or contact them for the specifications of the lift - max weight, etc. In doing similar research for my swim platform (made by Nautical Structures), I found quite a few model years of 450DAs on their list. Most were rated for 850 lbs, but as I said, you should find out for sure from whoever made yours. And as for performance, obviously a heavier load decreases it.
 
i've got a 2015 450 dancer with eh 480 HO diesels and hydraulic platform. i have a 400 pound spark on there now, and boat doesn't even know it's there. Florida Bow Thrusters told me my platform would easily hold over 1000 pounds, but boat was rated for about 800 lbs. I was also told that figure is low, because of course, Sea Ray doesn't want liability. I'm in the market for a new dinghy and i'm capping my options at 800 pounds wet.
 
We have a 2010 450 DA and we’ve had significant problems with our dinghy. To be fair we went too big. It’s - 12’ center console Apex with a 30 HP engine and we really should have gone with a 10’. The weight is about 550 pounds but truly I wish we had gone lighter. Between the dinghy getting loose when in a following sea or rough water or the dinghy filling up with water even with the drain plug out it’s actually become a liability and impacts the performance of the boat. We’re now looking at a 510 DA which should work much better with our dinghy. If we were planning to stay with this boat I would prefer to downsize what we have. I’m happy to answer any questions of you need more feedback.
 
We have a 2010 450 DA and we’ve had significant problems with our dinghy. To be fair we went too big. It’s - 12’ center console Apex with a 30 HP engine and we really should have gone with a 10’. The weight is about 550 pounds but truly I wish we had gone lighter. Between the dinghy getting loose when in a following sea or rough water or the dinghy filling up with water even with the drain plug out it’s actually become a liability and impacts the performance of the boat. We’re now looking at a 510 DA which should work much better with our dinghy. If we were planning to stay with this boat I would prefer to downsize what we have. I’m happy to answer any questions of you need more feedback.

Sandy,

Sorry to hear about your issues. Even with our 48DA, our 11' center console dinghy will move in angry seas if not secured properly. I learned not to use those 1.5" ratchet style straps as they loosen when they get wet, and instead bought the stainless steel cable style available from UMT Marine. They're expensive, however my dinghy doesn't move at all and actually much easier to use. Also, most hydraulic lift manufacturers suggest not only removing your plug but also covering your dinghy when traveling. I hope you have better luck with your new 510DA.

-Tom
 
Sandy,

Sorry to hear about your issues. Even with our 48DA, our 11' center console dinghy will move in angry seas if not secured properly. I learned not to use those 1.5" ratchet style straps as they loosen when they get wet, and instead bought the stainless steel cable style available from UMT Marine. They're expensive, however my dinghy doesn't move at all and actually much easier to use. Also, most hydraulic lift manufacturers suggest not only removing your plug but also covering your dinghy when traveling. I hope you have better luck with your new 510DA.

-Tom

Thanks Tom,

We are having a custom cover made for our dinghy right now and that will allow us to travel with it covered. Do you have a link to those tie-downs you referenced? They sound like a perfect solution!

Thanks,

Sandy
 
Thanks Tom,

We are having a custom cover made for our dinghy right now and that will allow us to travel with it covered. Do you have a link to those tie-downs you referenced? They sound like a perfect solution!

Thanks,

Sandy

Hi Sandy,

I certainly do, and if I remember I ended up having to call them with the dimensions and to order. All I had to do was put my dinghy on the platform exactly where I wanted, and in my case take a measurement for each of the 3 tie downs. You just measure from the pad eye int he up position to the to the eye on your dinghy. They will custom make the cables for you at the nominal length you gave them, and you'll end up with about 3" of adjustment.
http://www.umtmarine.com/stainless-steel/locking-turnbuckles

Please let me know if I can be of any help.

Thanks,

-Tom
 
Hi Sandy,

I certainly do, and if I remember I ended up having to call them with the dimensions and to order. All I had to do was put my dinghy on the platform exactly where I wanted, and in my case take a measurement for each of the 3 tie downs. You just measure from the pad eye int he up position to the to the eye on your dinghy. They will custom make the cables for you at the nominal length you gave them, and you'll end up with about 3" of adjustment.
http://www.umtmarine.com/stainless-steel/locking-turnbuckles

Please let me know if I can be of any help.

Thanks,

-Tom

This is great - thank you! Since we're getting close to our next boat I think I'll wait until we move on to order the cables though it's tempting to get at least one for the stern which is where the dinghy seems to come loose the most.
 
This is great - thank you! Since we're getting close to our next boat I think I'll wait until we move on to order the cables though it's tempting to get at least one for the stern which is where the dinghy seems to come loose the most.
This is great - thank you! Since we're getting close to our next boat I think I'll wait until we move on to order the cables though it's tempting to get at least one for the stern which is where the dinghy seems to come loose the most.

The stern is where I saw the most movement as well. My dock neighbor has had some success with the ratchet style straps that look like they're made out of seat belts. He claims they don't loosen when they get wet.

-Tom
 
Sandy, was weight an issue? i'm thinking of going with an 11' dinghy that weighs almost 800 pounds. i know the boat and platform are rated for it, but was your performance affected? with our pic, there's no effect at all?
 
APEX 11ft center console with 25hp efi tohatsu. It's about 400lbs and 30mph fast! My 2001 410 with a sealift platform works perfect. Absolutely no change to economy or boat performance.

No issues on strapping it down securely, but I do have a trick!!! I call it a line break. Like a stopping break.

I have a line approx 12ft long with a stainless hooks on both ends. One goes on the corner dinghy transom eye hook and runs under the dinghy forward to the swim platform stainless eye hook on the inside corner. If you don't have one use your main boats lower stern cleat.

Once the dinghy is in its chalks and up. I put the stern ratchets in place and ratchet the dinghy back tight so the line becomes a break and the dinky can't move back any further. Then I set a ratchet off the front eye hook of the dinghy down to the same inside platform eye hook the line break is on.

Rock solid in 8ft seas! With the cover on it, she stays very dry.

Mark
 
Sandy,

Sorry to hear about your issues. Even with our 48DA, our 11' center console dinghy will move in angry seas if not secured properly. I learned not to use those 1.5" ratchet style straps as they loosen when they get wet, and instead bought the stainless steel cable style available from UMT Marine. They're expensive, however my dinghy doesn't move at all and actually much easier to use. Also, most hydraulic lift manufacturers suggest not only removing your plug but also covering your dinghy when traveling. I hope you have better luck with your new 510DA.

-Tom
Tom - can you provide a link to the UMT Marine cables? I'm on their site but can't find what you're describing.
 
APEX 11ft center console with 25hp efi tohatsu. It's about 400lbs and 30mph fast! My 2001 410 with a sealift platform works perfect. Absolutely no change to economy or boat performance.

No issues on strapping it down securely, but I do have a trick!!! I call it a line break. Like a stopping break.

I have a line approx 12ft long with a stainless hooks on both ends. One goes on the corner dinghy transom eye hook and runs under the dinghy forward to the swim platform stainless eye hook on the inside corner. If you don't have one use your main boats lower stern cleat.

Once the dinghy is in its chalks and up. I put the stern ratchets in place and ratchet the dinghy back tight so the line becomes a break and the dinky can't move back any further. Then I set a ratchet off the front eye hook of the dinghy down to the same inside platform eye hook the line break is on.

Rock solid in 8ft seas! With the cover on it, she stays very dry.

Mark

Very intriguing! Any chance that you have pictures of your strap setup?
 
Very intriguing! Any chance that you have pictures of your strap setup?
I have to look.

Imagine looking at the back of your sea ray from the dock. Dinghy motor on Port side.
On the port side of the dingy on the transom should be a eye bolt. I had one installed. But it's the same one on the inboard of your Apex transom. From that eye bolt the line runs below the dinghy to the starboard side of your boat. Either to the cleat or to the swim step eye bolt that the dinghy straps to via its bow.

Once that's set up, pull the dinghy back towards the boats port until the line or break is tight. Now ratchet the dingy stern down tight so the line break won't let the dinghy move.

The line break should be measured to a length that won't allow the stern of the dinghy to go beyond the spot you want the motor to hang on the port of your boat.

So the break is a pre determined length, so the dinghy always sits where you want it there after.

Mark
 
Here are a couple of photos that show where the line break is attached. Hope this helps.
 

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