Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

M Prod said:
+1 what Kevin said. Grats on a beautiful boat! :)

Also good luck with those impellers. Do yourself a favor and remove the mufflers ...especially to port.

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He has it easy because he has bravo 3 outdrives. Lots of room to get to the water pumps in the engine room.

-Kevin
 
KevinC said:
He has it easy because he has bravo 3 outdrives. Lots of room to get to the water pumps in the engine room.

-Kevin
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Ah yes ..missed that, but there they are in his pic staring me right in the face! lol
 
Thanks for the info M Prod, although I think that applies to V drives? Mine is stern drive and from what I remember the sea water pumps are pretty accessible.
The PO lost an impeller on port side and believe it or not had only that one changed? Now that engine runs about 10º hotter than starboard. I’m thinking the impeller parts are in the heat exchanger and they need to be flushed? Anybody see this before?
 
Robj said:
Thanks for the info M Prod, although I think that applies to V drives? Mine is stern drive and from what I remember the sea water pumps are pretty accessible.
The PO lost an impeller on port side and believe it or not had only that one changed? Now that engine runs about 10º hotter than starboard. I’m thinking the impeller parts are in the heat exchanger and they need to be flushed? Anybody see this before?
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You’ve got it easy then! :)

What is the trailer rated for so far as weight, and do you know how much the trailer and boat weigh together? What’s the 350 rated for? Pretty awesome setup.

I’ve had some experience with discrepancies in water pressure from engine to engine, and that’s affected temperatures ..a little. The temperature thing can be a multitude of possibilities from water pressure to scaled heat exchanger to bad sensors, etc etc. have you checked the temps at the manifolds and the 10 degree thing is accurate?
 
Not sure on the actual weight but the Gross weight rating for the trailer is 20,000 lbs. I’m pretty sure its about maxed out with the weight of the trailer and boat.
I think the truck is rated at combined 28,600lbs.? Hard to read the charts but it pulls well and stops well.
When I flush everything and test it I guess I’ll start searching for other reasons but so far I have not checked actual temp. Just gauge reading.
This forum is a wealth of info! Thanks
 
Robj said:
Not sure on the actual weight but the Gross weight rating for the trailer is 20,000 lbs. I’m pretty sure its about maxed out with the weight of the trailer and boat.
I think the truck is rated at combined 28,600lbs.? Hard to read the charts but it pulls well and stops well.
When I flush everything and test it I guess I’ll start searching for other reasons but so far I have not checked actual temp. Just gauge reading.
This forum is a wealth of info! Thanks
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If it were me I would first check the temps at manifolds to make sure the gauges were accurate. Check all hose connections to make sure you don’t have a leak somewhere and make sure you have good water pressure in that engine. Make sure water pump and impeller are good. If still hot then I would back flush the system. If it’s still hot I would then flush the system with phosphoric acid (lots of threads on here about this) and if it’s still running hot ..then service the heat exchanger.
 
M Prod said:
If it were me I would first check the temps at manifolds to make sure the gauges were accurate. Check all hose connections to make sure you don’t have a leak somewhere and make sure you have good water pressure in that engine. Make sure water pump and impeller are good. If still hot then I would back flush the system. If it’s still hot I would then flush the system with phosphoric acid (lots of threads on here about this) and if it’s still running hot ..then service the heat exchanger.
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Sounds like a good plan. Many times these are simple things so work from the cheaper and easier to the more complex. For me last year it was water pressure due to a worn belt slipping.

-Kevin
 
When we bought our 06 340 three years ago. Had issues with motors running 175 - 180 and higher @ WOT. Same set up as you, 496 B IIIs. Removed both exchangers and cleaned with muratic acid. They were obviously plugged up. There is no filter from the drives to the pump, so anything that gets through the drive pickups ends up going through the pump and into the receiving end of the exchanger where it gathers and plugs things up. We then did what several have done, installed through hulls with filters and put the transom block off plates on the drives while adding external showers. We now run at 168 no matter what speed. Drive fluid actually still has a blue color to it and isn't black from heat when we change it annually. Makes for easy winterizing and flushing as well.
 
That makes sense, I understand the thru hull and block off plates but dont understand the showers? Is that a spray onto the outdrive?
 
Yes - when on plain when the drives are out of the water the drives heat up, the pickup tubes on the Simrek Drive Showers draw water in and spray it onto the drives to help keep them cool. Check them out on You Tube. I had em on my Maxum and now on my 340. Certainly notice a difference in the color of my fluid when changing.
 
I will check it out, never liked the way Mercruiser piped the water thru the stern anyway. Sounds much more efficient.
I wonder why you couldn’t have both with a tee fitting? Maybe the drives would starve?
 
I had mine with the T at first, then changed them to the blocking plate. The other reason I did it was due to Bravo-itis. When I took the T out, I put an adapter in that hose for fresh water flushing. Our power set up it quite nice, both for space in the engine compartment and fuel economy. Need to keep up on the PMs on the drives, B IIIs have their issues. There is the Bravo-itis I mentioned as well as Steering pins in the transom assemblies, in salt water especially. Both can show up around 10 - 12 years old. I just replaced my steering pins this past fall just before putting away for winter. Not a fun process at all. Had same issue with my previous boat. Both were/are lift kept.
 
I'd like to add an AC (220 volt) receptacle into the glove box/drink holder right next to the helm, anybody done it ? Any tips ?
TIA
 
I didn't add one there. But should be pretty simple. When I did mine I used a totally closed outlet box and of course an exterior cover. Be sure to leave plenty of extra wire so when you need to remove the cover, you will be able to get the panel out of your way to work in there. So far as power source, there is an access opening to the power panel from that compartment in the cabin that will allow you to run your cable. You should have some vacant slots in your ac panel, so you can add a new breaker or you can tap off the current receptacle breaker. I would add a new one.
 
melida said:
I'd like to add an AC (220 volt) receptacle into the glove box/drink holder right next to the helm, anybody done it ? Any tips ?
TIA
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Actually pretty simple although I would think twice about mounting in the plastic holder. Depending on what you are planning on using it for I would personally mount it to the right/left of it. I have one in there and it is a pain everytime I need access as I can only move the plastic holder so far out of my way. If you do choose to mount it there make sure to leave plenty of extra wire so you could move it well out of your way.

The wiring is extremely simple from that area you can drop wires right down behind panel and connect to a breaker. If you are looking for power in the cockpit is is also not much harder to get to the arch area - but you will need to remove the seat back (simple) and an access panel.

-Kevin
 
I was trying to search this thread but wasn't getting the results I was hoping for. I'd like to research a "camper top" rear canvass for a 340 Sundancer. Custom shops around town sound silly expensive. Anyone have a standard kit idea or thought that I would only have to do the snaps and straps?
 
Korkie said:
I didn't add one there. But should be pretty simple. When I did mine I used a totally closed outlet box and of course an exterior cover. Be sure to leave plenty of extra wire so when you need to remove the cover, you will be able to get the panel out of your way to work in there. So far as power source, there is an access opening to the power panel from that compartment in the cabin that will allow you to run your cable. You should have some vacant slots in your ac panel, so you can add a new breaker or you can tap off the current receptacle breaker. I would add a new one.
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Thanks, so I need the closed one like in my 2005 315/280 DA foot level of helm area. Do you know where can I find that exact part or any other recommendations ?

What if I add the wire to the "Outletls" breaker in the cabin elecrical panel, I guess it will handle one more load/outlet.
 
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KevinC said:
Actually pretty simple although I would think twice about mounting in the plastic holder. Depending on what you are planning on using it for I would personally mount it to the right/left of it. I have one in there and it is a pain everytime I need access as I can only move the plastic holder so far out of my way. If you do choose to mount it there make sure to leave plenty of extra wire so you could move it well out of your way.

The wiring is extremely simple from that area you can drop wires right down behind panel and connect to a breaker. If you are looking for power in the cockpit is is also not much harder to get to the arch area - but you will need to remove the seat back (simple) and an access panel.

-Kevin
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Thanks Kevin.
I'm thinking to mount it to the holder for not cutting the solid wall where the cockpit light at the captain's foot level.
I opened the holder area twice when I bought my boat for autopilot and aux outlet installations so I'm familiar of there.
Gonna add it to the "outlets" breaker at main AC panel.
 
onthejob said:
I was trying to search this thread but wasn't getting the results I was hoping for. I'd like to research a "camper top" rear canvass for a 340 Sundancer. Custom shops around town sound silly expensive. Anyone have a standard kit idea or thought that I would only have to do the snaps and straps?
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There was not "camper" made for the 320/340s so aftermarket would be the only option here. All the other canvas I can order from Great Lakes.

At the end of last season I started working on a project for a "fly shade" to directly attach to the sunshade that would be removable. Removable poles would need to be installed at the aft corners to support shade but could be stowed away. I am hoping to finish this project this spring.

-Kevin
 
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KevinC said:
There was not "camper" made for the 320/340s so aftermarket would be the only option here. All the other canvas I can order from Great Lakes.

At the end of last season I started working on a project for a "fly shade" to directly attach to the sunshade that would be removable. Removable poles would need to be installed at the aft corners to support shade but could be stowed away. I am hoping to finish this project this spring.

-Kevin
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I had a sun fly made and got poles from canvas designers it was a setup that worked l for us.
 
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