quality time
Well-Known Member
- Oct 30, 2007
- 2,360
- Boat Info
- Miss Stress
2006 50' Post
- Engines
- Series 60 Detroits
It also controls the "bridge" courtesy lights under dash and settee.
480 DB Owners Club
- Thread starter Four Suns
- Start date
steve4566
Member
Are those lights controlled by that switch and the switch at the helm?
quality time
Well-Known Member
- Oct 30, 2007
- 2,360
- Boat Info
- Miss Stress
2006 50' Post
- Engines
- Series 60 Detroits
Yes, both places. Just like cockpit lights are controlled by the other switch and the one on the transom.
steve4566
Member
The switches for the cockpit lights are momentary switches that must control a relay. My bridge light switches are not momentary switches. They are probably single throw double pole switches. Perhaps the PO bypassed the inop switch. I guess it's time to take it out and see. Thank you!
Cherman
Member
My bridge switches are also rocker switches, not momentary. If your lights work with the bridge switch at the helm,then either you have a bad switch or a loose/broken wire at the other switch. JM2C , Happy Holidays
Woody, I called them. $1500 estimate. My dealer gave me a quote at $1650. De Pere Cummins said QSM's are more than QSC's. Mike
CapnKnuck
New Member
- Sep 12, 2015
- 7
- Boat Info
- Sea Ray 480DB (Quiet Storm)
Sea Fox 197 (Shanty Bird)
- Engines
- Detroit Diesels 6v92 606HP
Cherman - do tell. We are waiting with baited breath about your water intrusion issue (unless I missed it...). I saw you on the hard with Dryboat and was wondering what's going on... Or maybe I don't want to know? PS - who did your salon TV stanchions?
Cherman
Member
Hey Carl, Happy Holidays, I'm writing up a brief history to get this issue known and what you can do to fix it if it hasn't rotted or de-laminated yet. Boat is all done and dry. Had an issue with 2 areas that ended up giving us false readings with the moisture meters. I did the TV stanchions myself. It's made out of s/s bar rails and s/s end caps. Anyone want to see pics, I will have to take some next time onboard. I will get something posted tonight or tomorrow. Good to hear from you.
Cherman
Member
OK Here it is, I started it before I posted the one above. If I should start this as a new thread (moderators) let me know, and where to post it.
Hi Carl, No, I was going to wait till after the Holidays, but I can get started now.
First a brief history
I had the boat sold end of last August and was sea trialed and surveyed after Labor Day. Everything went perfect until the haul out. The surveyor found high readings on both aft quarter hull sides and more extending up the starboard side toward the 3rd Stateroom. Of course, I freaked out because as far as I know, my wife Kim and I are done. There is no way we can afford to fix this issue and how did this happen.
Three days later we put the boat on the hard to investigate the surveyor’s findings. I had another surveyor come a few days later to compare the readings with the first surveyor. They were a bit lower probably because it had been out of the water for almost a week or maybe it was the type of meter and it was reading differently. Never the less, there was a problem in the port aft hull side starting at the exhaust port running 12-14 ft. forward and varies from 1-2 feet in height. The starboard side had a wet/delamination area around the 4 thru-hull fittings about 18” in diameter and ran up the side all the way to the aft port hole in the 3rd stateroom. It varied in height from 1 ft. to all the way from rub rail to solid glass at the chine. Readings were high at the point of entry (I’ll explain) and faded off the further we got away from it. The starboard side had some weird readings in the stateroom area and again back near the engine room vent back where the storage locker is next to the slider. I’ll explain that later also.
Ok, so I started research on ways to remediate or repair the moisture issue. Contacted DryBoat L.L.C. and by luck they were flying into my area the following week to evaluate some other boats near me. They added me to their schedule and I met them at the boat. They also mapped out the high readings on both sides and took a few core samples from the inside to confirm the meter readings. Port side was slightly moist where they took the sample and the starboard was wet at the sample location. It was just below the 4 thru hull fittings. They said to me that it’s not the end of the world, this isn’t nearly as bad as some others they have done. It should be completed in 4-6 weeks once start and we must find the points of entry.
They called me the next week with the cost to do the remediation and when they could start. Their quote/cost is guaranteed not to go higher than stated. IE: It’s not an open checkbook repair.
They only do the remediation, they do not do the removal and reinstall if that needs to be done. I wanted to limit the number of holes on the outside in the white gelcoat and in the Chine, so I removed some of the exhaust in the lazarette and completely disassembled the 3rd stateroom to gain access to the inner hull side. Between all the areas of remediation, there was about 300 ¼” holes drilled inside the boat. DryBoat attached their hoses from their drying trailer to all those holes. Some were left open for air to circulate and the drying begins.
Point of water entry on the port side was the bullet at the end of the rub rail that runs around the transom at the swim platform level. It was missing when I purchased the boat and replaced it a couple months later. Damage was already done as the 2 holes that hold the end cap/bullet go directly into the core. The starboard side had 3 locations, the thru hull fitting for the Bridge A/C was an aftermarket install and not done properly prior to me owning the boat. The rub rail was damaged/repaired (prior to us owning) where you step out of the cockpit to the dock. It also was not repaired properly and allowed all that water that runs down the walkway when it rains to work its way into the core. Also, the port light in the stateroom had signs of leaking at some point again prior to me owning. I had all 10 port hole lights re-bedded the first year I owned it.
DryBoat came out once every week to check on the progress and make any modification that were needed. The port side was dry first due to the smaller drying area and I think because that was the sunny side of the boat.
A few weeks into drying the boat, the boat was placed under contract again for sale and was to be settled after the remediation was completed and of course sea trial. Time was running out as the buyer wanted to move boat by the end of November. Boat was finished and ready to splash on Nov 15th. The delay in the Abstract title cancelled the deal.
DryBoat did a great job getting the boat done in time. They kept me informed of everything that was happening even though I was there most of the times. The surveyor for the “then” buyer made a few trips to check on the progress of the remediation and was impressed. He recorded his moisture readings in the completed areas to enter into his report. The two areas on the starboard side I mentioned earlier, the stateroom and the engine room vent area. We determined by taking 2” core samples (9 of them) in those areas that the boat was NOT wet. We were getting a false reading with the meters. I videoed the taking of the samples and documented everything. The surveyor for the buyer also witnessed the sampling and concurred with us that something is producing the false readings. BTW, since the deal fell through, the surveyor was a lifesaver and wrote me a report of his findings for the next buyer. (I didn’t hire a surveyor because I thought the boat was sold. Live and Learn) The delam area around the thru hull fittings, DryBoat filled the void with the flexible epoxy they infuse into all the holes. Even if one of those fittings leak again, it cannot get into the core because now there is epoxy completely around the hole for the fittings.
I know this is long, so I will stop for now. If anybody has any questions about DryBoat that I can help with, let me know. I have some pics of all the holes in the boat that I can upload later if anyone would like to see.
The boat is staying on the hard and I will be cleaning and testing aftercoolers and replacing the zincs this winter. Sold or not, the preventive maintenance continues. Happy Holidays, Chris
Hi Carl, No, I was going to wait till after the Holidays, but I can get started now.
First a brief history
I had the boat sold end of last August and was sea trialed and surveyed after Labor Day. Everything went perfect until the haul out. The surveyor found high readings on both aft quarter hull sides and more extending up the starboard side toward the 3rd Stateroom. Of course, I freaked out because as far as I know, my wife Kim and I are done. There is no way we can afford to fix this issue and how did this happen.
Three days later we put the boat on the hard to investigate the surveyor’s findings. I had another surveyor come a few days later to compare the readings with the first surveyor. They were a bit lower probably because it had been out of the water for almost a week or maybe it was the type of meter and it was reading differently. Never the less, there was a problem in the port aft hull side starting at the exhaust port running 12-14 ft. forward and varies from 1-2 feet in height. The starboard side had a wet/delamination area around the 4 thru-hull fittings about 18” in diameter and ran up the side all the way to the aft port hole in the 3rd stateroom. It varied in height from 1 ft. to all the way from rub rail to solid glass at the chine. Readings were high at the point of entry (I’ll explain) and faded off the further we got away from it. The starboard side had some weird readings in the stateroom area and again back near the engine room vent back where the storage locker is next to the slider. I’ll explain that later also.
Ok, so I started research on ways to remediate or repair the moisture issue. Contacted DryBoat L.L.C. and by luck they were flying into my area the following week to evaluate some other boats near me. They added me to their schedule and I met them at the boat. They also mapped out the high readings on both sides and took a few core samples from the inside to confirm the meter readings. Port side was slightly moist where they took the sample and the starboard was wet at the sample location. It was just below the 4 thru hull fittings. They said to me that it’s not the end of the world, this isn’t nearly as bad as some others they have done. It should be completed in 4-6 weeks once start and we must find the points of entry.
They called me the next week with the cost to do the remediation and when they could start. Their quote/cost is guaranteed not to go higher than stated. IE: It’s not an open checkbook repair.
They only do the remediation, they do not do the removal and reinstall if that needs to be done. I wanted to limit the number of holes on the outside in the white gelcoat and in the Chine, so I removed some of the exhaust in the lazarette and completely disassembled the 3rd stateroom to gain access to the inner hull side. Between all the areas of remediation, there was about 300 ¼” holes drilled inside the boat. DryBoat attached their hoses from their drying trailer to all those holes. Some were left open for air to circulate and the drying begins.
Point of water entry on the port side was the bullet at the end of the rub rail that runs around the transom at the swim platform level. It was missing when I purchased the boat and replaced it a couple months later. Damage was already done as the 2 holes that hold the end cap/bullet go directly into the core. The starboard side had 3 locations, the thru hull fitting for the Bridge A/C was an aftermarket install and not done properly prior to me owning the boat. The rub rail was damaged/repaired (prior to us owning) where you step out of the cockpit to the dock. It also was not repaired properly and allowed all that water that runs down the walkway when it rains to work its way into the core. Also, the port light in the stateroom had signs of leaking at some point again prior to me owning. I had all 10 port hole lights re-bedded the first year I owned it.
DryBoat came out once every week to check on the progress and make any modification that were needed. The port side was dry first due to the smaller drying area and I think because that was the sunny side of the boat.
A few weeks into drying the boat, the boat was placed under contract again for sale and was to be settled after the remediation was completed and of course sea trial. Time was running out as the buyer wanted to move boat by the end of November. Boat was finished and ready to splash on Nov 15th. The delay in the Abstract title cancelled the deal.
DryBoat did a great job getting the boat done in time. They kept me informed of everything that was happening even though I was there most of the times. The surveyor for the “then” buyer made a few trips to check on the progress of the remediation and was impressed. He recorded his moisture readings in the completed areas to enter into his report. The two areas on the starboard side I mentioned earlier, the stateroom and the engine room vent area. We determined by taking 2” core samples (9 of them) in those areas that the boat was NOT wet. We were getting a false reading with the meters. I videoed the taking of the samples and documented everything. The surveyor for the buyer also witnessed the sampling and concurred with us that something is producing the false readings. BTW, since the deal fell through, the surveyor was a lifesaver and wrote me a report of his findings for the next buyer. (I didn’t hire a surveyor because I thought the boat was sold. Live and Learn) The delam area around the thru hull fittings, DryBoat filled the void with the flexible epoxy they infuse into all the holes. Even if one of those fittings leak again, it cannot get into the core because now there is epoxy completely around the hole for the fittings.
I know this is long, so I will stop for now. If anybody has any questions about DryBoat that I can help with, let me know. I have some pics of all the holes in the boat that I can upload later if anyone would like to see.
The boat is staying on the hard and I will be cleaning and testing aftercoolers and replacing the zincs this winter. Sold or not, the preventive maintenance continues. Happy Holidays, Chris
douglee25
Well-Known Member
Do you have pics of the process and rig they use? What does that cost? Everything is done from the inside?
Cherman
Member
Douglee25, I am gathering some pics to post. Their trailer is a 6x10 single axle enclosed trailer that's light enough to maneuver with one or two people. So it can be positioned close to the boat. The drying equipment is permanently installed inside it with power and hose connections coming through the trailer sides Every job is priced differently according to the amount of remediation area and it's location on the boat. Most of mine was done from the inside except the starboard area that was not accessible from the inside. The fuel tank was in the way. About 25 holes were drilled upwards through the solid fiberglass chine and into the core. The drill bits range from 1-4 feet in length and are 1/4". My job was under 20K.
Chris
Chris
douglee25
Well-Known Member
I looked them up online. Super simple process. Pretty ingenious. Is the equipment loud while running? Glad you found the root cause.
Cherman
Member
No, It sounds kind of like a small wet/dry vac running inside the trailer. This trailer they brought required 220V 50 Amp. Although I don't think it drew that much. Attached are some pics of the remediation.
Port side at the fuel tank area, Couldn't get to it from the inside
3rd Stateroom disassembled, holes drilled and drying
3rd stateroom sealed prior to reassembling, core samples taken
Starboard side drying under insulated cover to help keep the heat in.
Starboard side again and DryBoat's trailer.
Port light in stateroom, this was an old leak but we dug out the dry rotted balsa down to good core and filled it with the flexible epoxy.
Most of my documentation is video and too large to attach. But this gives you the idea of what can be done.
In the stateroom, if you look hard you can see a vertical line where the paint starts on the hullside. You can take a moisture meter on the inside or outside of the hull, on either side of the line, (painted to unpainted) The meter read in the green on the unpainted and move 2 inches into the paint anywhere along that line and the meter read high in the red. To prove that area was never wet, we took core samples. and yes we still re-mediated that area to see if there would be a change in the meter readings which it didn't. Their "then" buyers surveyor documented this in the report he sent me.
Port side at the fuel tank area, Couldn't get to it from the inside 3rd Stateroom disassembled, holes drilled and drying 3rd stateroom sealed prior to reassembling, core samples taken Starboard side drying under insulated cover to help keep the heat in. Starboard side again and DryBoat's trailer. Port light in stateroom, this was an old leak but we dug out the dry rotted balsa down to good core and filled it with the flexible epoxy.Most of my documentation is video and too large to attach. But this gives you the idea of what can be done.
In the stateroom, if you look hard you can see a vertical line where the paint starts on the hullside. You can take a moisture meter on the inside or outside of the hull, on either side of the line, (painted to unpainted) The meter read in the green on the unpainted and move 2 inches into the paint anywhere along that line and the meter read high in the red. To prove that area was never wet, we took core samples. and yes we still re-mediated that area to see if there would be a change in the meter readings which it didn't. Their "then" buyers surveyor documented this in the report he sent me.
CapnKnuck
New Member
- Sep 12, 2015
- 7
- Boat Info
- Sea Ray 480DB (Quiet Storm)
Sea Fox 197 (Shanty Bird)
- Engines
- Detroit Diesels 6v92 606HP
Thank you Chris for the synopsis. Now you've got me worried since I'm missing the same bullet for half this past season. Sh#& happens... and I'm def in need of porthole TLC. If you snap a few pics from behind your TV, I'm doing exactly that. My mount from PO leaves a little to be desired. Cool idea.
Cherman
Member
Yup, the 2 christmas tree style pins that hold the bullet on, go right through the core to the inside. When we purchased the boat we were getting water splashed all over the aft port area in the lazarette. Took 2 people to find it. One driving and the other down in the hold. He actually got shot in his side with the water shooting through the holes. Had to turn slightly to port for this to occur.
On another note. As mentioned, one of my leaks on the Starboard side was from the rub-rail. Another prone area for intrusion. When asked, people will tell you different ways to re-caulk the rub-rail. Some say none, others the top only and others top and bottom. I replaced 30 ft. of rub-rail and s/s half round on my starboard side and rebedded 30 ft. of rub-rail and replaced the s/s half round on the port. Once it was removed it was easy to see where the water got in. Called Sea Ray and they said if you want to caulk only to do the top NOT the bottom. Newer Sea Rays have neither caulk on top or bottom. I chose no caulk since I know how it was installed and is not going to leak. I also drilled small holes every 4-5 ft on the bottom of the rail to allow water to escape if it were to get trapped in there somehow.
On another note. As mentioned, one of my leaks on the Starboard side was from the rub-rail. Another prone area for intrusion. When asked, people will tell you different ways to re-caulk the rub-rail. Some say none, others the top only and others top and bottom. I replaced 30 ft. of rub-rail and s/s half round on my starboard side and rebedded 30 ft. of rub-rail and replaced the s/s half round on the port. Once it was removed it was easy to see where the water got in. Called Sea Ray and they said if you want to caulk only to do the top NOT the bottom. Newer Sea Rays have neither caulk on top or bottom. I chose no caulk since I know how it was installed and is not going to leak. I also drilled small holes every 4-5 ft on the bottom of the rail to allow water to escape if it were to get trapped in there somehow.
quality time
Well-Known Member
- Oct 30, 2007
- 2,360
- Boat Info
- Miss Stress
2006 50' Post
- Engines
- Series 60 Detroits
We had the dreaded bullet leak when we purchased the boat. I actually ran it home heeled over with the tabs to keep the Port side out of the water to keep the back bilge from flooding. They are buried when up on plane so we machined some inserts and bedded the heck out of them. No leaks since.
- May 25, 2016
- 929
- Boat Info
- 2008 48 Sundancer
Avon Seasport 340
- Engines
- Cummins QSC 8.3's
40 HP Yamaha
Not trying to highjack your thread, however I think I saw the bullets you guys speak of on searayman13 site on eBay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SEA-RAY-BO...ite-/202240281795?vxp=mtr&hash=item2f1675ccc3
-Tom
Cherman
Member
TNT8808, That could be it. There is a few that look very similar. Got mine from marine max a bit cheaper than ebay. Still too expensive to me for a hunk of plastic.
QT, That rub- rail that goes around the transom with the bullets is the only rail that is 110% completely encapsulated with caulk. Top, bottom, inside, outside, in the screw holes on the screws and I filled the void inside the rail ends at the bullets prior to putting them on. NOT getting in there again. LOL
QT, That rub- rail that goes around the transom with the bullets is the only rail that is 110% completely encapsulated with caulk. Top, bottom, inside, outside, in the screw holes on the screws and I filled the void inside the rail ends at the bullets prior to putting them on. NOT getting in there again. LOL
Russ Calasant
Active Member
Mine turns the lower bridge lights on and off. It’s wired with the switch at the helm. If you turn the lights on with the helm switch and off with the arch switch the switch indicator light at the helm goes out but rocker is still down -
Russ Calasant
Active Member
Interesting, I have never heard anything prior about the “bullets” leaking. Mine are stainless and appear to be screwed in.
I do have an odd leak that seems to weep on occasion, it’s on the aft starboard corner of the house above the storage locker near the slider and at the caulked seam. Reaching up on the back side of the locker it’s dry - very strange. The other aggravating spot, when it rains, is port side on the bridge plexi window aft at the arch. It runs down the stairs - a pia I haven’t found the source of yet.
I do have an odd leak that seems to weep on occasion, it’s on the aft starboard corner of the house above the storage locker near the slider and at the caulked seam. Reaching up on the back side of the locker it’s dry - very strange. The other aggravating spot, when it rains, is port side on the bridge plexi window aft at the arch. It runs down the stairs - a pia I haven’t found the source of yet.
