Cost of windlass instalation.

My 270 has a windlass now and Im looking at a 290 without a windlass. I asked for an estimate to have one installed and they came back with $7500. Maybe more, maybe less. Wow!!
 
I just did a windlass myself on my 300 sundancer last week, it is a 1985 model. My total cost with 150’ of chain, windlass, starboard, stainless steel bolts,anchor, and 100’ of #6 gauge wire ran me just under $1500.00. I’m a licensed contractor so I did not need the necessary tools, holesaws, and 1/2” drill as I have all the tools on my truck. When I drilled through my top deck, I was pleased to find the material dry! That was a bonus. Took me less than an hour to do. But 4 hours to fish the wires, lol, it was a little but of a chore to fish the wires. I also fastened my chain in the anchor locker to the through hull bow eyelet so I didn’t lose my rode, important to do! Painted the last 25’ of chain with red paint so that I know I’m close to the end. We only anchor in 25’ or less deep. If you anchor deeper you will need more rode. I use a 7-1 ratio just to be safe. Hope this helps. Dave.
 
dirvan said:
My 270 has a windlass now and Im looking at a 290 without a windlass. I asked for an estimate to have one installed and they came back with $7500. Maybe more, maybe less. Wow!!
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If you read all these post you just read the wild wild west of information. So let's start at the beginning. I do not need the answers to these questions, you do.

Where do you boat?
Are you on a protected lake or out on the ocean or Great Lakes?
How deep of water do you plan to anchor in?
What are the risk factors where you anchor?

These will help you determine what anchor and weight, the amount chain you may need and once you know that, the windlass you need. The windlass itself could range $600-$3500, the difference is what the windlass will pull up.

What does the anchor weigh you need to hold you boat in the worst conditions you expect to encounter? When I did my 270 I went up a size to the 22lbs. that were usually on larger vessels because I was on the Great Lakes. Next is chain, what is your bottom how much do you need or want? I did 50 feet of chain on the 270. Then choose your line and how much you want 5-1 for normal anchoring and 7-1 for storm anchoring. I did 200 feet again because of the big water I could get in. You need to ad the weight of all that, including accounting for water weight on the line to determine what your windlass needs to be able to retrieve.

The lewmar V-700 is a very good affordable windlass but it is not heavy enough to for bigger boats.

Do you have rollers? My 270 did not SR price was near $800. Not sure what you have or don't have.

Do not skimp on wire. Smaller wire is easier to run but strains the windlass with the lack of power for it to run efficiently.

Then you have miscellaneous items to account for, foot switches, breakers, helm switches.

All in all I can see why a marine company would arrive at that number if they are charging full shop rate. Now if they are installing a V-700, it was a rip-off...

MM
 
ddmusser said:
I just did a windlass myself on my 300 sundancer last week, it is a 1985 model. My total cost with 150’ of chain, windlass, starboard, stainless steel bolts,anchor, and 100’ of #6 gauge wire ran me just under $1500.00. I’m a licensed contractor so I did not need the necessary tools, holesaws, and 1/2” drill as I have all the tools on my truck. When I drilled through my top deck, I was pleased to find the material dry! That was a bonus. Took me less than an hour to do. But 4 hours to fish the wires, lol, it was a little but of a chore to fish the wires. I also fastened my chain in the anchor locker to the through hull bow eyelet so I didn’t lose my rode, important to do! Painted the last 25’ of chain with red paint so that I know I’m close to the end. We only anchor in 25’ or less deep. If you anchor deeper you will need more rode. I use a 7-1 ratio just to be safe. Hope this helps. Dave.
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What windlass did you install?

MM
 
MonacoMike said:
What windlass did you install?

MM
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Hi Mike, I installed a lewmar v700, bought all my equipment from Darkhorse Marine from Clearwater Florida, after talking to many companies, I found that Bobby from Darkhorse was very knowledgeable and as we talked more on the phone we actually knew each other from way back! There are many options and technical advice is extremely important. Another critical option is vertical verses horizontal. After measuring and re-measuring I went with a vertical. Many options out there, with the op given a quote of $7500.00 it is my opinion it is quite high. Again, only my opinion. I also use a bridle as the windlass in only a retriever and should not be used as an anchor hold. You are correct, depends on which model windlass is purchased, as they can get quite expensive. So if one were to purchase a $3500.00 windless, $7500.00 wouldn’t be bad for labor and materials.
 
I got a rough quote to have windlass installed on my new Crownline by a shop that said they do about 8-10 a year and was quoted 'about $2000'. Being a 25'er they probably were planning on the V700 and being on the Ohio river I don't need a bunch of chain. My last boat (no windlass) I used10' of chain and 150' of rope but only ever put out about 75' combined (65' of rope). Our average depth near us is about 25' or so.

My plan is to install it myself. I already have the roller installed and pretty sure it is pre-wired. I'm figuring about $1200-1500 total. Not sure how heavy my wire is so may start over with heavier wire if need be.
 
Ibsold the boat and bought one with a windless
 
dirvan said:
My 270 has a windlass now and Im looking at a 290 without a windlass. I asked for an estimate to have one installed and they came back with $7500. Maybe more, maybe less. Wow!!
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i would most certainly be IN that business of installing windlasses, if i could get $7500 per! i did my own on my 300. was a pain in the ass (since i'd never done one before) to remove the old one, but since you don't even have to do that, you're in for a smooth ride. i bought the lewmar 600 (about $700), 30 feet of chain, 200 feet of rode, some connectors, and voilà. you will, though, have to figure out the wiring--but i'm sure you can find a local guy to do that for you--can't see why he'd charge more than $300. and, you will need the steel unit to hold the anchor (term is escaping me), so, still, you're right around $1500, max. maybe you'll need to buy a hole saw or something, but otherwise, pretty standard tools.
 
MonacoMike said:
Usually would be called anchor rollers or anchor chute in my world.

MM
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You may be correct. I looked up anchor davit & it is used to retrieve the anchor from the side of the boat?
 

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But, it seems other places call it the anchor davit so now I am confused. Maybe we are from different worlds? ;)
 

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david leonard said:
i would most certainly be IN that business of installing windlasses, if i could get $7500 per! i did my own on my 300. was a pain in the ass (since i'd never done one before) to remove the old one, but since you don't even have to do that, you're in for a smooth ride. i bought the lewmar 600 (about $700), 30 feet of chain, 200 feet of rode, some connectors, and voilà. you will, though, have to figure out the wiring--but i'm sure you can find a local guy to do that for you--can't see why he'd charge more than $300. and, you will need the steel unit to hold the anchor (term is escaping me), so, still, you're right around $1500, max. maybe you'll need to buy a hole saw or something, but otherwise, pretty standard tools.
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So your recommendation is to "find a local guy" to figure out the wiring? What qualifications are we looking for here.

The wiring typically takes someone with knowledge of boat construction to run the wires to proper standards. They also need to understand how the interior is assembled as often it requires removal of ceiling panels, cabinets, or upholstery. These are rarely found in a "local guy" that is not in the marine business.

As for the Lewmar V-700, when I talked to them back when I put the windlass on my 270 DA, 6500 dry weight, they said that the boat and gear for the Great Lakes was the upper limit of boat size for the V-700. Your boat has a dry weight of 9600 pounds. I very much doubt a V-700 is the proper fit for a 1989 300 DA.

MM
 
tdschafer said:
But, it seems other places call it the anchor davit so now I am confused. Maybe we are from different worlds? ;)
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I did a search of Defender and they call them "anchor bow rollers". A further Google search for "anchor davit" offers a West Marine page of "anchor rollers and mounts" and similar choices. Just my take.

MM
 
MonacoMike said:
I did a search of Defender and they call them "anchor bow rollers". A further Google search for "anchor davit" offers a West Marine page of "anchor rollers and mounts" and similar choices. Just my take.

MM
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Potāto, potâto.....lol
 
I did my own install two years ago, only cost was materials, no labor just my time. Took a few days and was relatively straight forward. Shop the parts online and you'll have your materials cost.
 
MonacoMike said:
The wiring typically takes someone with knowledge of boat construction to run the wires to proper standards. They also need to understand how the interior is assembled as often it requires removal of ceiling panels, cabinets, or upholstery.
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Why isn't there a reasonably easy to access wiring chase on our boats that doesn't require disassembling the entire interior to do something like this? It's like not only do you need electrical knowledge and an E-size print of the boat wiring schematics, but you'd better have the vinyl guy and the cabinet guy on speed dial, too in case disassembly goes south.

I was trying to get into the area behind my 310 DA main electric panel last spring to fix some speaker wiring issues and remove the obsolete factory DVD player but there ain't no way in without removing both the AC and DC panels, no access from either side of the cabinetry. The DVD player won't clear the panel thanks to the mounting bracket unless you remove at least one of the electrical panels to create clearance.

I like my boat, but this is a stupid design decision. One side should be removable for access.
 
mobocracy said:
Why isn't there a reasonably easy to access wiring chase on our boats that doesn't require disassembling the entire interior to do something like this? It's like not only do you need electrical knowledge and an E-size print of the boat wiring schematics, but you'd better have the vinyl guy and the cabinet guy on speed dial, too in case disassembly goes south.

I was trying to get into the area behind my 310 DA main electric panel last spring to fix some speaker wiring issues and remove the obsolete factory DVD player but there ain't no way in without removing both the AC and DC panels, no access from either side of the cabinetry. The DVD player won't clear the panel thanks to the mounting bracket unless you remove at least one of the electrical panels to create clearance.

I like my boat, but this is a stupid design decision. One side should be removable for access.
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There would be a cost to it and other things that seem small and the other boat makers would skip it, and buyers would buy them without. Few new buyers want to pay for something they will not use. If a new buyer wanted a windlass they got one typically, and if they couldn't afford one they likely sold before it was them adding it. In a nutshell, it is later owners likely to upgrade, and manufacturers don't usually focus group them. LOL

MM
 
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