260 Sundancer Thread.........Comments questions and answers

...sure love my auto trimming tabs... i have trimmed manually and takes some practice...

when heavy I tab down to get up then turn on auto trim...
 
New style hull is entirely different, the trim tabs are under the hull, not off the back, i think they are creating lift not stabilizing because of their position.
 
I'm new to Club Sea Ray and this is my first post. I just purchased a 2005 260 Sundancer.

When opening the cabinet door under the outdoor sink the panel above it snapped off. It appears to have been attached by some kind of epoxy. Does anyone know what kind? I'd like to reattach it as soon as possible.

Thanks in advance.
 
Found a 1999 260 with a carb'd 5.7 and a 2002 with a 5.0 EFI. Is the 5.0 enough for this big of a boat? It does have the BIII. Just seems like it might be a little underpowered?
 
Found a 1999 260 with a carb'd 5.7 and a 2002 with a 5.0 EFI. Is the 5.0 enough for this big of a boat? It does have the BIII. Just seems like it might be a little underpowered?
FYI, you're in the wrong 260DA thread. The one you want is the '99-'04 thread. This thread's 260DA is a totally different hull and a good bit heavier. However, with the B3, both engines are certainly fine - it all depends on what you want to do with the boat and your expectations.
 
Hello all,
Tested the 2006 260 today. It has 350mpi magnum with BIII outdrive with 20” pitch props on it. It ran really strong, out of the hole it got on a plane easy. Top speed was 35mph at 5000 with 2 people and minimum load in the boat.
It will be 1000 pounds heavier when fully loaded for trips out to Catalina Island. Should I look at 22” props for better performance in the peak power band? Or should I stay with the 20s for tourque andpulling a load?

Thoughts?
 
Hello all,
Tested the 2006 260 today. It has 350mpi magnum with BIII outdrive with 20” pitch props on it. It ran really strong, out of the hole it got on a plane easy. Top speed was 35mph at 5000 with 2 people and minimum load in the boat.
It will be 1000 pounds heavier when fully loaded for trips out to Catalina Island. Should I look at 22” props for better performance in the peak power band? Or should I stay with the 20s for tourque andpulling a load?

Thoughts?

with more weight planned.. i would stick to 20 degree to get up

my current engine is tired but 6.2 and when fully wet and 6 people she struggled up, but not sure of pitch
 
Only recently found this thread, great info!. Last year we got a ‘04 260. Wanted to share something with the group, long story short: right after we had her up in its current foating lift a diver “cleaned” the outdrive with muriatic acid and killed the paint. After a few months corrosion showed up, causing pitting everywhere...something that had to be fixed. I decided I could DIY it myself so below is my attempt...took me several days, on site, working on a floating deck, but I think it was worth the effort (and $$ savings!).

In case anyone is interested here I describe the procedure and materials:
- remove oxidation (sander, etc)
- alumniprep cleaner
- fill pitting (marine tex)
- alodine etcher
- 2 coats primer paint (Interlux primocon spray can)
- 3 coats mercury phantom black ( moeller spray can)
- decals

Time will tell!!...still need to try in the water.
6D75023F-7F73-4601-B21A-EE68156FCF40.jpeg
4D9DE294-61F4-4920-8718-923BAB7F9D74.jpeg
089BEA38-999F-48D1-A0AC-53F8450E03EB.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Only recently found this thread, great info!. Last year we got a ‘04 260. Wanted to share something with the group, long story short: right after we had her up in its current foating lift a diver “cleaned” the outdrive with muriatic acid and killed the paint. After a few months corrosion showed up, causing pitting everywhere...something that had to be fixed. I decided I could DIY it myself so below is my attempt...took me several days, on site, working on a floating deck, but I think it was worth the effort (and $$ savings!).

In case anyone is interested here I describe the procedure and materials:
- remove oxidation (sander, etc)
- alumniprep cleaner
- fill pitting (marine tex)
- alodine etcher
- 2 coats primer paint (Interlux primocon spray can)
- 3 coats mercury phantom black ( moeller spray can)
- decals

Time will tell!!...still need to try in the water.
View attachment 62752 View attachment 62744 View attachment 62742

Looks great!

Now as far as the corrosion goes the paint is critical to keep in good shape. I did not see were you boat or if it stays in the water all the time but if you are and you need bottom paint just make sure to use a compatible paint like Trilux 33.

Also to keep corrosion from attacking your drives, make sure you are using the proper metal type in your anodes (Typically AL for salt water on these), inspect the boding system and the mercathode system to make sure it's functional. Lastly I also noticed that your bottom paint goes right up to your drive at the transom. With Bravo IIIs the recommendation is to keep a 1 to 1.5 inc border where the paint does not touch the drive.

-Kevin
 
Kevin, I keep it in a floating lift. Prior owner had it in the water for a few months and had it bottom painted, incorrectly as you pointed out, all the way to the drive. I recently installed new saltwater/ anodes. Corrosion set in the drive mainly because the paint was gone because of what the diver did. “Phase ii” is actually remove all the paint from the transom. I have already treated a section with paint remover and sanding and I think I can restore the gelcoat...but, unless I get a better idea, it will involve significant “elbow grease” (they painted the bottom with primer and then antifouling).
 
I have a problem with the engine hatch latch leaking rain water into the engine room....anyone had this issue?. Been looking for a spare part but can’t find a replacement...p/n 1683350. 2004 260.

3FBC4D17-F05D-4FE1-BF76-3DD22DC6FF2C.jpeg
 
Love the 260. I burn about 11.5 gal/hr, or a little over 2 mpg, which isn't too bad. In 2004, the cockpit had plenty of room for some comfortable deck chairs. I am not sure if the new model still has the room or not.

I have the genset option, which works out great down here. Sometimes I wish I had a windlass, but at least I get some exercise with the anchor.

My only real complaint is that they did not put a seal on the cabinet door in the head - so the shower will soak your toilet paper if you forget about it. Dumb design - I hope they fixed it for the '06's.
I have an 01 260 and solved the head cabinet leak issue with some weatherstripping. Easy fix and now the TP stays dry
 
Yes.......you have to remove it. Apparently at one time Sea Ray must have contemplated an access door and then never followed thru. The good news is you won't have to get in there often unless the unit stops working.
Mine is an 01 and has a door to access the a/c unit.
 
I just got an 06 sundancer 260. Happy Days pointed out that the key and level monitor for the discharge is on cabinet next to toilet. I dont find anything in the head at all to turn it on. It has a mercerator, seacock, all wiring. But I can't figure it out. Any suggestions where to look?
 
What exactly are you trying to turn on? The macerator to discharge the tank overboard or are you trying to run on the vacuflush system?

Bennett
 
What exactly are you trying to turn on? The macerator to discharge the tank overboard or are you trying to run on the vacuflush system?

Bennett

Both actually, I only find the DC switch. Nothing in the head. Are they in different places on each boat?
 
Your vacuflush is a 12v system. On your 12vDC breaker panel you have a breaker labeled “Head” I believe. Turn this on. This will activate your vacuflush pump and your system will build up vacuum pressure. Beside the key to the right of the toilet, there is a green and red light if I remember correctly. Green means OK to flush, red means no.

If you want to dump the holding tank overboard, you should have a 12v breaker that is labeled “Macerator.” Turn this breaker on. Then once you are 3+ miles offshore, open the ball valve in the bilge that is on the macerator line. Go into the head, push and hold the little black button beside the key and turn and hold the key as well. This energizes the macerator pump and should empty the tank.

Bennett
 

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