Replace ACR Spot RCL-100D w/ RCL-75? Has anyone made the swap?

LattitudeAdjustment

Active Member
Apr 8, 2018
236
Palm Harbor FL 28°03’”N 82°46’”W
Boat Info
2003 480 Sedan Bridge
Engines
Cummins QSM 11's
Caribe DL12 Center Console Tender
w 40hp Yamaha
On my 2002 380DA, the ACR RCL-100D spotlight needs a new bulb and either the keypad or the controller is bad. So either way, the cost may approach the cost of the RCL-75. My questions is has someone made the swap from their 100? I am questioning the drop in candlepower which is supposed to be 200,000 for the 100D and 180,000 for the 75. It does not seem like a big difference, but there is a huge difference in price. The saying you get what you pay for comes to mind.

I am guessing the 100D that is on my 02 380DA is the original spot and I am concerned once I purchase one or two new parts or two for it, something else is going to need replacement. From what I understand, the new control wire is different and power may be different as well. Hoping I can use the existing wires as a pull wire for the new one(s).

Our plan is to upgrade the boat in a year or two so longevity is not a critical factor here although I want to leave the new owner a working light. If this was already discussed, my apology, couldn't find any hits when searched.

TY,
Vince
 
Before you throw in the towel do one simple test. Remove the control pad from the dash and plug it directly into the controller with a short piece of coax. Many times I've seen the problem be as simpl as replacing (or cleaning) the coax. If it works then it is your coax which is pretty easy to run a new one. Well it's not that easy. But you get the idea.

Pete
 
Before you throw in the towel do one simple test. Remove the control pad from the dash and plug it directly into the controller with a short piece of coax. Many times I've seen the problem be as simpl as replacing (or cleaning) the coax. If it works then it is your coax which is pretty easy to run a new one. Well it's not that easy. But you get the idea.

Pete
I've never heard of a coax wearing out. Running a new one on my boat would be next to impossible. Controller pads do wear out. Control boards can fail due to moisture problems. Bulbs burn out.
 
Thanks for the input.

I am going to try to see if there is a way to clean the contacts on the control pad first, if they are not surface-mount switches. And yes, if it is just an open/close circuit on the keypad, it would be worth trying to short the directions that are not working. I am pretty sure it is not the motors as I can get it to go up, just no down and no counter-clockwise/left switch.

May go over there tomorrow and bring my electronics tool set and a multi-meter with me. I will post an update when I get a chance. Thanks!

V
 
Thanks for the input.

I am going to try to see if there is a way to clean the contacts on the control pad first, if they are not surface-mount switches. And yes, if it is just an open/close circuit on the keypad, it would be worth trying to short the directions that are not working. I am pretty sure it is not the motors as I can get it to go up, just no down and no counter-clockwise/left switch.

May go over there tomorrow and bring my electronics tool set and a multi-meter with me. I will post an update when I get a chance. Thanks!

V

Good luck!

MM
 
Thanks for the input.

I am going to try to see if there is a way to clean the contacts on the control pad first, if they are not surface-mount switches. And yes, if it is just an open/close circuit on the keypad, it would be worth trying to short the directions that are not working. I am pretty sure it is not the motors as I can get it to go up, just no down and no counter-clockwise/left switch.

May go over there tomorrow and bring my electronics tool set and a multi-meter with me. I will post an update when I get a chance. Thanks!

V

Good luck!

MM
 
Thanks for the input.

I am going to try to see if there is a way to clean the contacts on the control pad first, if they are not surface-mount switches. And yes, if it is just an open/close circuit on the keypad, it would be worth trying to short the directions that are not working. I am pretty sure it is not the motors as I can get it to go up, just no down and no counter-clockwise/left switch.

May go over there tomorrow and bring my electronics tool set and a multi-meter with me. I will post an update when I get a chance. Thanks!

V
I replaced the controller circuit board on mine two years ago. It is located in the anchor locker and got wet while the boat was running in a very large following sea. The anchor locker took a lot of water in through the drain hole and the check valve got stuck in the closed position stopping the water from draining out. This component is the brain that controls movement and spot vs. flood.. The light would operate but was quirky. Would rotate one direction only. Would sometimes come on by itself. New brain and all was well. Control pad was next on the list. Fortunately, I knew a guy who had seen the problem before and told me to try the circuit board first as he was pretty sure that would fix the problem.
 
Hey Lattitude Adjustment.

Before throwing in the towel...here is the ARC troubleshooting guide. These things are very simple and do require some maintenance. It could be corrosion in the pad, controller, coax, but probably easily found and corrected.

Additionally, I started a thread where I replaced the elevation motor for $15 and we're working on finding the rotation motor (need the right size and RPM). The gear case on these things are crap. http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/arc-rcl-100-spotlight-repairs.89141/

Bulbs can be had on Amazon for $32.

https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-...F8&qid=1542377618&sr=8-2&keywords=jcd12v55wdx

For me, I have more time than money at this point, so a little leg work has saved me some serious $$$, and I dont think these lights are worth $1k.

Dave
 

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Thanks much for the troubleshooting guide Dave. Did not know one existed. I have the time to put into it, but I am partially disabled and its hard for me to move about the boat at times.

@sbw1 - I am having that problem of rotating in only one direction just as you mentioned. I heard the controller circuit controller assembly is fairly expensive.....in the same thought process, I worry about putting $$$ into the light and then something else going. Guess that is boating. ;)

I should spend some time with the TS guide first and then make some decisions from there.

Thanks all, great info from a great site.
V
 
Hey Lattitude Adjustment.

Before throwing in the towel...here is the ARC troubleshooting guide. These things are very simple and do require some maintenance. It could be corrosion in the pad, controller, coax, but probably easily found and corrected.

Additionally, I started a thread where I replaced the elevation motor for $15 and we're working on finding the rotation motor (need the right size and RPM). The gear case on these things are crap. http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/arc-rcl-100-spotlight-repairs.89141/

Bulbs can be had on Amazon for $32.

https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-...F8&qid=1542377618&sr=8-2&keywords=jcd12v55wdx

For me, I have more time than money at this point, so a little leg work has saved me some serious $$$, and I dont think these lights are worth $1k.

Dave
Excellent post. The only thing I would add concerns the halogen bulbs if so equipped. Handle these with your rubber gloves on. They burn out prematurely if you get any fingerprints on them. Heat builds up under the oil from your fingers and they fail due to hot spots. Working bulbs should be cleaned with rubbing alcohol or vodka before installation. This will insure maximum life from the bulb. The instructions alluded to not touching the bulb but did not really explain the reason, and it would be easy to miss the point if you are not aware of the heat issue.
 
Thanks much for the troubleshooting guide Dave. Did not know one existed. I have the time to put into it, but I am partially disabled and its hard for me to move about the boat at times.

@sbw1 - I am having that problem of rotating in only one direction just as you mentioned. I heard the controller circuit controller assembly is fairly expensive.....in the same thought process, I worry about putting $$$ into the light and then something else going. Guess that is boating. ;)

I should spend some time with the TS guide first and then make some decisions from there.

Thanks all, great info from a great site.
V
I don' t remember the part being all that expensive. 150 plus or minus a few bucks if memory serves. I really had no choice in the matter. When we got to our next port, I lifted the anchor locker door for some reason and was surprised to see the entire locker filled with water to the top. I felt for the drain and was unable to put my finger into it as it was blocked. Turned out to be a rubber ball that acts as a valve against water intrusion was jammed up against the opening. It allowed water in but not out. I was able to clear the jam by pushing on it with the blunt end of a screw driver handle. Later I discovered the flood lite was not working when it began blinking on and off by it self. This lead to the discovery that the master control unit circuit board was installed under the top deck inside the rode locker. Turned out to be less than ideal although it worked for 12 years.
 
Thanks much for the troubleshooting guide Dave. Did not know one existed. I have the time to put into it, but I am partially disabled and its hard for me to move about the boat at times.

@sbw1 - I am having that problem of rotating in only one direction just as you mentioned. I heard the controller circuit controller assembly is fairly expensive.....in the same thought process, I worry about putting $$$ into the light and then something else going. Guess that is boating. ;)

I should spend some time with the TS guide first and then make some decisions from there.

Thanks all, great info from a great site.
V

Lack of mobility is a serious problem if your going to try the contortions sometimes necessary to get to this stuff. Hopefully you've go a dock neighbor or friend that can help you out some. Hopefully you can get on and have a few drinks and still enjoy the boat!!
 
I don' t remember the part being all that expensive. 150 plus or minus a few bucks if memory serves. I really had no choice in the matter. When we got to our next port, I lifted the anchor locker door for some reason and was surprised to see the entire locker filled with water to the top. I felt for the drain and was unable to put my finger into it as it was blocked. Turned out to be a rubber ball that acts as a valve against water intrusion was jammed up against the opening. It allowed water in but not out. I was able to clear the jam by pushing on it with the blunt end of a screw driver handle. Later I discovered the flood lite was not working when it began blinking on and off by it self. This lead to the discovery that the master control unit circuit board was installed under the top deck inside the rode locker. Turned out to be less than ideal although it worked for 12 years.

I never knew any anchor lockers had a valve of any kind. What would one look for the determine that?

MM
 
Lack of mobility is a serious problem if your going to try the contortions sometimes necessary to get to this stuff. Hopefully you've go a dock neighbor or friend that can help you out some. Hopefully you can get on and have a few drinks and still enjoy the boat!!
Man do you have that right. I don't see how anyone reaches normal retirement age while still working on boats. It is a young man's profession.
 
I never knew any anchor lockers had a valve of any kind. What would one look for the determine that?

MM
Tiara installed a black rubber ball inside the through hull fitting at the bottom of the chain locker. When there is water pressure against the hull side as occurs when going through big seas, the ball floats up inside the fitting and prevents water intrusion. The ball drops when the pressure falls off and any water in the locker drains out. I was running the boat at 25 knots for more than two hours with water nearly at the level of the bow pulpit much of the time. Never gave the drain flooding the locker any thought. Live and learn. I may have a pic of the drain. Will look for it.
 
The through hull above the boot stripe has a ball that floats inside the fitting to keep water out of the locker. Good idea but can have unentended consequences. Bow light sits directly above the Delta anchor.
IMG_0430.JPG
 
The through hull above the boot stripe has a ball that floats inside the fitting to keep water out of the locker. Good idea but can have unentended consequences. Bow light sits directly above the Delta anchor.
View attachment 62070

Got it. My drain is more a clamshell directly out of the locker with no hose.

MM
 
Man do you have that right. I don't see how anyone reaches normal retirement age while still working on boats. It is a young man's profession.

Lack of mobility is a serious problem if your going to try the contortions sometimes necessary to get to this stuff. Hopefully you've go a dock neighbor or friend that can help you out some. Hopefully you can get on and have a few drinks and still enjoy the boat!!

It is a challenge for sure. I am retired, but not by choice, 56 y/o. Surgeon damaged my spine during a surgery and things are very different now. I hire-out for most projects, but my dock buddies are always there to help. I just hate to ask and would rather see them out on the water. And yes Dave, we get out quite a bit, drop the hook and spend the nite and sample the rum du jour. We are getting into our "nice" season minus the front lines that pass through here & there.

V
 
It is a challenge for sure. I am retired, but not by choice, 56 y/o. Surgeon damaged my spine during a surgery and things are very different now. I hire-out for most projects, but my dock buddies are always there to help. I just hate to ask and would rather see them out on the water. And yes Dave, we get out quite a bit, drop the hook and spend the nite and sample the rum du jour. We are getting into our "nice" season minus the front lines that pass through here & there.

V

Glad you have the inner strength to keep going, doing all you can.

MM
 

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